The *ONLY* critique I would have to give (and it’s my very first out of 3 years of following the greatest modeler of all-time), is the dryness of the tank overall just doesn’t seem to fit the wetness of the tracks and running gear. Might I suggest splattering some clear varnish in specific areas of the hull to simulate snow flung onto it from the tracks, and has since melted and run down the side of the hull? It would probably take away the overall dryness look of the tank. Or even perhaps the whole tank? Since, after all, snow is nothing more than rain that’s temporarily frozen.
You have become a master of making white paint look anything other than white, and it makes for a really cool weathering job! I am loving this series, this will be a great finished scene!
Looks amazing plus 9:32 pls don't rush it I don't care if it takes longer for a video, we want to see your best work and something your 101% happy with :)
""This are the best results I can get with materials I have" I'm gonna print it out, frame it and put it on my desk to not get depressed looking at my models XD
This is clearly the Golden Age for modelers. In the '70'-'90s snow was tough to pull off. Now it comes in a bottle. Likewise with smoke, fire, and explosions!
Man, just earlier today I was contemplating wether or not to wait for this video, before weathering a snowy CV90-40. I decided to go for it myself and just as I'm finished this video pops up. Still, will be interesting to compare my methods and results to yours and perhaps I'll add something in post.
You are my favorite model making channel. I enjoy your explanation and details as you progress with putting together the model, the techniques and products you apply, along with pros and cons that result. Most of all is your jovial attitude that you have while discussing everything step by step as you create your masterpieces. Cheers!
Try Tamiya acrylic flat base straight out of bottle to simulate frosted areas can be thinned for airbrushing.... Results in a very good looking frost effect
Here's a little tip if you add humbrol decalfix to any acrylic paint you can reactivate it with water. The decafix is crap for it's intended use. But as a medium for wearing pigments.
love these videos. great work, great explanations, very entertaining. I don't know what it is but listening to him is enjoyable. I've tried watching videos by some others and I couldn't stand the way they talked. Keep these awsome videos coming Night Shift
I'm not sure if this is a realistic diorama idea but while watching I thought of a tank "parked" outside a building with snow built up on and around it, and little Christmas lights hanging from the building. I'm not sure if anyone makes scale working lights like that but I think it'd make for an interesting picture.
Your models always look so great! I’ve been so impressed with every one of your models that it’s given me the confidence to actually upload some videos of my own models, I’d love it if I could get some feedback from a professional model maker like you perhaps. Anyways keep up the work my friend
Your videos are the most educational and inspiring I’ve ever watched! You’ve truly helped up my game in the Modeling world with armour! Also can we get a shirt that says Muh Friends on the back lol would deff buy!
i have tried a couple of those acrylic pastes from AK but I can't get them to work standalone. When applied they look very good, but first there is the problem with the tide marks you mention, but I also found that there is very significant volume reduction, so you cannot just apply a little, without ugly grains showing. What I tried and it seems to work, is add straight to the bottle a bit of fine sand or dust (must be quite fine), to give it a more predictable volume comparison between dry and wet. I also added some fine grass but that isn't necessary
While I can’t guarantee it’s as good as the products you’re using, anytime I need snow for tracks, I use a blend of baking soda, matte medium, and white paint and the amount of liquid to solid ratio I can adjust to make it runnier or pastier
Welds are actually often quite rusty, the only way that wouldn't be the case is if the welder was lucky enough to be using Stainless steel rods which are expensive and therefore rare in any Soviet vehicle. I get it that enhancing weld seams with silver paint brings out a result but you must understand that quite often a weld seam rusts very much like any other bare steel would.
When welding rolled homogenous or face hardened armor steel you have to use a modified 18-8 stainless electrode to properly join the pieces. Some of the older armor welding methods involved a high nickel content electrode. A regular 6010/11 or 7018 won’t work on armor. The weld will actually split off from the joint like you used a caulking gun instead of a stinger.
Have you come across any interesting conversions of captured german vehicles in allied service? I think watching one of those being built would be neat.
The best picture I have seen is a SdKfz251/1D that had been resprayed in the British OD (I forget the specific color code) and then had the back of the 'track used as a chalkboard for the O group briefing.
And another great model, always amazing result. Why do you not use some marker of Molotow Liquid Chrome instead of silver paint? It's much quicker to apply, and the results are a lot better.
My lens technique has become: Base color (often metallics) across the entire part, two lighter highlights on the bottom in a crescent shape, one dark crescent on the top opposite the highlights, and blend as desired. A single white (or very bright metal) dot as a reflection off the lens, then washes then gloss coats until the desired hue and reflectivity is acquired.
Hey friend! Amazing job on these models. I'm in no shape or form an expert on painting, and am actually looking to expand my techniques and better myself with my model building and painting. Just a quick mention though, I noticed on your sprocket teeth how you chose to paint the silver worn effect on the entire tooth. As a prior service armor crewman I have to say that sprocket teeth tend to wear down at the edges first and the flat contact areas. chipping away at the metal to almost smooth out the edges of the teeth. for the entire tooth to become silver like that shows problems with track tension. What I like to do is highlight the edges and maybe bring them in a little bit, most armored vehicles even of an earlier period have what are called wear rings or wear indicators that allow the crew to note when a certain part should be replaced. Again, i am NOT a professional just speaking from my experience and witnessing how armored vehicles age and become rusty or used. I enjoyed the video and look forward to attempting these sort of things in upcoming projects!
Maybe a question you ( or anyone else ) can answer... On Airbrushes like the Tamiya ones ( Iwata / B.B. Rich? ) with a needle and different sizes like 0.3, 0.4, etc... What does the size refer to? Is it referring just the Nozzle ( the miniscule part the Needle goes through and makes contact with when fully closed ) or is it the Needle? If it is just the Needle does that mean Needles are standardized to one size and we can get any replacement? 🤔
The KV looks really nice! I also had an idea: Would it maybe be cool to finish the model which all started the channel (Nagmachon) for the 3rd anniversary of the channel?
Nice job, man 🔥 but looking at the model I can see this one in not just Leningrad in ww2, but even modern day setting. Add some debris and this will look like it was sitting there for ages, ya know what I mean 😌
How many vids i watch, it stays chinese. Guess im not made for weathering. Im starting my first diorama for a diorama build off. I have ak wet mud, snow terrain, snow sprinkles and still water ... thanks to one of your vids but i cant get an idea how it need to look. Yeah, not made for diorama's too. 😅 Cant wait to see your diorama. Awesome work 👌
I need help, I was building a airfix B17 and basically I got to sticking the fuselage together and it went wrong, so my question is how/can you remove cement superglue. Any help would be really appreciated as I spent a lot of money on the build and the paints, Thanks
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
It’s always good to see a Nightshift video when it comes out
Friday isn't Friday until you here "My friends".
The *ONLY* critique I would have to give (and it’s my very first out of 3 years of following the greatest modeler of all-time), is the dryness of the tank overall just doesn’t seem to fit the wetness of the tracks and running gear. Might I suggest splattering some clear varnish in specific areas of the hull to simulate snow flung onto it from the tracks, and has since melted and run down the side of the hull? It would probably take away the overall dryness look of the tank. Or even perhaps the whole tank? Since, after all, snow is nothing more than rain that’s temporarily frozen.
What a perfect treat for Veterans/Remembrance day. Also that is one glorious looking KV-2. Thank you Nightshift
Eternal glory to gulags!
Like usual, Fridays are the best days, because Night Shift posts and simply the fact that it’s Friday!
Love your work and videos!
You have become a master of making white paint look anything other than white, and it makes for a really cool weathering job! I am loving this series, this will be a great finished scene!
Looks amazing plus 9:32 pls don't rush it I don't care if it takes longer for a video, we want to see your best work and something your 101% happy with :)
Your talent is superior, and so much eff’n fun to watch and sooo worth waiting for. My wife and I anticipate watching everything you make. Cheers!
""This are the best results I can get with materials I have" I'm gonna print it out, frame it and put it on my desk to not get depressed looking at my models XD
Precision Ice and Snow out of the UK makes the best model snow products. Hands down! Give them a shot. You won't be disappointed.
This is clearly the Golden Age for modelers. In the '70'-'90s snow was tough to pull off. Now it comes in a bottle. Likewise with smoke, fire, and explosions!
NightShift is the first reason of enjoying the friday evening
Man, just earlier today I was contemplating wether or not to wait for this video, before weathering a snowy CV90-40. I decided to go for it myself and just as I'm finished this video pops up. Still, will be interesting to compare my methods and results to yours and perhaps I'll add something in post.
That looks amazing, so far. I think this is one of my favorites you've done so far.
You are my favorite model making channel. I enjoy your explanation and details as you progress with putting together the model, the techniques and products you apply, along with pros and cons that result. Most of all is your jovial attitude that you have while discussing everything step by step as you create your masterpieces. Cheers!
Beautiful paint work, Martin! Thanks for sharing and demonstrating your techniques, they are very inspirational!
Try Tamiya acrylic flat base straight out of bottle to simulate frosted areas can be thinned for airbrushing.... Results in a very good looking frost effect
Snow effect on tanks is so much fun. My BOB Sherman was covered with snow on its front. The most terrifying process of the build
Here's a little tip if you add humbrol decalfix to any acrylic paint you can reactivate it with water. The decafix is crap for it's intended use. But as a medium for wearing pigments.
Always an outstanding video and presentation.
love these videos. great work, great explanations, very entertaining. I don't know what it is but listening to him is enjoyable. I've tried watching videos by some others and I couldn't stand the way they talked. Keep these awsome videos coming Night Shift
I still enjoy the construction phase at least as much as the painting and weathering.
Best moment on the week friday nights with night shift
It's funny, it looks like an overexaggerated meme-tank with that tall turret.
Great weathering and painting, as always!
I'm not sure if this is a realistic diorama idea but while watching I thought of a tank "parked" outside a building with snow built up on and around it, and little Christmas lights hanging from the building.
I'm not sure if anyone makes scale working lights like that but I think it'd make for an interesting picture.
They do make pico LEDs, but they're usually something you need to wire up yourself.
I've always wanted to make a diorama with christmas lights or other small lights.
"Quick, relaxing project!" 😁Looks awesome for a "Rush job"
Your models always look so great! I’ve been so impressed with every one of your models that it’s given me the confidence to actually upload some videos of my own models, I’d love it if I could get some feedback from a professional model maker like you perhaps. Anyways keep up the work my friend
When I was younger Friday means fun now it's happiness...:)
.....you are an artist my friend. Ewery think you do is an art... thank you.
It's veterans day, no school and a perfect Night Shift video!
Proper easy on the ear listening 👍
the weekly motivational video is here! than you uncle for all the tips and motivation! not only to keep modeling but enhance the skills
The weathering effects look fantastic on this beast
Great comrade, he coming for the motherland
Very nicely done. Started a Dragon Tiger II just today. What a great day it has been. Great content and new model. Don't get much better.
Good to see Comrade Chonk get some love.
Your videos are the most educational and inspiring I’ve ever watched! You’ve truly helped up my game in the Modeling world with armour! Also can we get a shirt that says Muh Friends on the back lol would deff buy!
My favorite Friday's snack hahaha
Soda bi-carb or talcum power mixed with diluted PVA glue can make a decent snow effect.
You have been a great teacher I still suck but these video making me better
Great work as always.
Tank is done so right .
WOW .
Mike
Hi… I Absolutely love your videos can you do a British desertized challenger 2 ?
Amazing work! It's so convincing that I feel like my hand would freeze to that that hull if I touched it.
i have tried a couple of those acrylic pastes from AK but I can't get them to work standalone. When applied they look very good, but first there is the problem with the tide marks you mention, but I also found that there is very significant volume reduction, so you cannot just apply a little, without ugly grains showing. What I tried and it seems to work, is add straight to the bottle a bit of fine sand or dust (must be quite fine), to give it a more predictable volume comparison between dry and wet. I also added some fine grass but that isn't necessary
So nice! I would love to see how would you do one of the World War Toons tank Models!
its real intresting seeing a Kv-2 WIthout fenders.
While I can’t guarantee it’s as good as the products you’re using, anytime I need snow for tracks, I use a blend of baking soda, matte medium, and white paint and the amount of liquid to solid ratio I can adjust to make it runnier or pastier
Martin you’re truly amazing sir!!!!! 😊
Breathtaking to watch...)
Awesome work Myyyyyfriend!!
P.S. you need you make T Shirt with that on it!
Looking forward to your figure painting in 1/48👌😁
Welds are actually often quite rusty, the only way that wouldn't be the case is if the welder was lucky enough to be using Stainless steel rods which are expensive and therefore rare in any Soviet vehicle.
I get it that enhancing weld seams with silver paint brings out a result but you must understand that quite often a weld seam rusts very much like any other bare steel would.
When welding rolled homogenous or face hardened armor steel you have to use a modified 18-8 stainless electrode to properly join the pieces. Some of the older armor welding methods involved a high nickel content electrode. A regular 6010/11 or 7018 won’t work on armor. The weld will actually split off from the joint like you used a caulking gun instead of a stinger.
@@mattcreecy3475 OK, thanks for putting me right on that.
Excellent as always!
You are the MASTER NSh!
only missed the upload by 57 minutes today. I can watch it before work!
Have you come across any interesting conversions of captured german vehicles in allied service? I think watching one of those being built would be neat.
The best picture I have seen is a SdKfz251/1D that had been resprayed in the British OD (I forget the specific color code) and then had the back of the 'track used as a chalkboard for the O group briefing.
And another great model, always amazing result.
Why do you not use some marker of Molotow Liquid Chrome instead of silver paint? It's much quicker to apply, and the results are a lot better.
Beautiful. Hello from Russia!
My lens technique has become: Base color (often metallics) across the entire part, two lighter highlights on the bottom in a crescent shape, one dark crescent on the top opposite the highlights, and blend as desired. A single white (or very bright metal) dot as a reflection off the lens, then washes then gloss coats until the desired hue and reflectivity is acquired.
Nice work, as always 😃👌👍
im currently building a AFV Club Magach 6B. M60 with extra armor and more guns. Cool lil tanks
I hope we´ll see you one day building a Panther tank!
Awesome as usual!
❄❄Another GREAT vid ❄❄
Very impressive.
will you ever do a tour of all the models you have made?
Try a model with a visible interior. I think it would look dope
I love your videos even though I have never made a model tank before, but I'd love to. Any tips of models and techniques for a total beginner?
Hey friend! Amazing job on these models. I'm in no shape or form an expert on painting, and am actually looking to expand my techniques and better myself with my model building and painting.
Just a quick mention though, I noticed on your sprocket teeth how you chose to paint the silver worn effect on the entire tooth. As a prior service armor crewman I have to say that sprocket teeth tend to wear down at the edges first and the flat contact areas. chipping away at the metal to almost smooth out the edges of the teeth. for the entire tooth to become silver like that shows problems with track tension. What I like to do is highlight the edges and maybe bring them in a little bit, most armored vehicles even of an earlier period have what are called wear rings or wear indicators that allow the crew to note when a certain part should be replaced.
Again, i am NOT a professional just speaking from my experience and witnessing how armored vehicles age and become rusty or used. I enjoyed the video and look forward to attempting these sort of things in upcoming projects!
I was allways thinking you are saying mud friends now my friend
You did a wonderful job!
You should try satellite city super solvent for ca glue. It puts that VMS shib to shame.
Maybe a question you ( or anyone else ) can answer... On Airbrushes like the Tamiya ones ( Iwata / B.B. Rich? ) with a needle and different sizes like 0.3, 0.4, etc... What does the size refer to?
Is it referring just the Nozzle ( the miniscule part the Needle goes through and makes contact with when fully closed ) or is it the Needle? If it is just the Needle does that mean Needles are standardized to one size and we can get any replacement? 🤔
Excellent job 👌
Wish this was available as a skin in WarThunder or World of Tanks...
The KV2 is always entertaining to watch derp and delete tanks.
incredible! 👍🏻
What cpu, gpu and ram does your edditing computer have? PS superb weathering on KV, love it!
Hey, night shift, have you ever tried to me a snow effects? They're some of the best I've ever used
I love this. Do you remember the name of the font used for the stencil you made?
Another great work¡¡
Can you do a simple tamiya kit with no pe for beginners
What I can wrote to say more than always? Great done! All the best for You! ;)
Excellent
How impressed im am from 1-10 10/10
The KV looks really nice! I also had an idea:
Would it maybe be cool to finish the model which all started the channel (Nagmachon) for the 3rd anniversary of the channel?
Excellent work. Really enjoyed this series of videos because I love winter camo.
Thank you👍
Absolutely stunning as always. It is so satisfying watching your videos.
How is the shipping from Michtoy to Europe?
Welds do not rust? Interesting!
I wish you would make a book.
Hi night shift!
Have you ever considered modeling an RC Tank with something like this?
Nice job, man 🔥 but looking at the model I can see this one in not just Leningrad in ww2, but even modern day setting. Add some debris and this will look like it was sitting there for ages, ya know what I mean 😌
My Friends! I always hear "Mud Friends" until you said my friends recently in another sentence :D
Great job like always
🔵🔵🔵👍👍👍😀😀😀🔵🔵🔵
Why do you always use washes for the freshest layer of mud instead of pre-made enamels?
You should do a S.T.A.L.K.E.R. diorama in the future.
How many vids i watch, it stays chinese. Guess im not made for weathering. Im starting my first diorama for a diorama build off. I have ak wet mud, snow terrain, snow sprinkles and still water ... thanks to one of your vids but i cant get an idea how it need to look. Yeah, not made for diorama's too. 😅
Cant wait to see your diorama.
Awesome work 👌
I forgot it was Friday
I need help, I was building a airfix B17 and basically I got to sticking the fuselage together and it went wrong, so my question is how/can you remove cement superglue.
Any help would be really appreciated as I spent a lot of money on the build and the paints,
Thanks
Super
1 year on, has the snow effect yellowed at all?
👏👏👏👏👏👏