I could t have done this without you. I am just about to cut the wire from the tweeter plug and solder in to the splitter. Has taken a few rewatches to compare your wiring to my alpine R2 wiring diagram.
@@AdvSouthAfrica Not quite there yet. Looked at wiring diagram as I got confused with the factory harness in the door. Was scared to solder in till I am sure. Factory seems to be stereo to tweeter then on to woofer. Alpine diagram shows stereo to woofer then on to filter then tweeter. The woofer has 2 pairs of terminals for that reason. So I am still a bit confused and trying to draw them side by side on paper to get my head around it.
Helpful. Thanks. I have component speakers to go in front doors rather than coax, but good to see what I need to pull off and what I will find underneath.
And they’re in. Once I checked wiring diagram and got my head around that the tweeter wires were just a loop and it didn’t matter whether it was amps to woofer then tweeter or other way around it was easy. 2nd side about quicker as I knew what i was doing. No amp yet just running off head unit.
Cheers for this, am doing a full upgrade on my '03 Prado so it was good to see what to expect from the existing speakers. Do you get any rattle from the doors? Thinking of lining everything between door and card with some thin foam. Thanks again! 👍
Awesome stuff! I only got a little rattle from a window mechanism when I was making more bass in the doors before I put the subwoofer. Now that I have the sub, it's been amazing and no rattles in the doors! I'm glad this video helped you out!
Hello, I also have a Toyota Prado 120, I want to install a JBL sound system, it's amplified, but I won't put the bass in. Which JBL speakers can I get a good sound effect if I install them?
Have a look at the stage 3 JBL speakers and amp them accordingly. I'm very happy with my stage 2 speakers but I am running the 8" JBL sub. Just remember that more power in the doors makes the window mechanisms rattle to secure everything that you can
Great video thanks, I am wanting to do mine this week. I have got a 12’ sub and amp already. Would you recommend the 2 way or 3 way JBL? Bare in mind I will need to remove the sub when I go over-landing as I have a drawer system fitted. Should I skip the sub rather.
Thank you! Are you planning to amp your door speakers? If so then go with the 3 way. If I was you I'd mount the sub amp under the driver seat and just run speaker cables to the back, then when you overland you can just disconnect the sub and you won't have anything in the way
@robertbaxter546 I actually on the hunt for something similar, mine does Bluetooth but it bugs me that I can see the song name on my screen. There's a couple of brands that do screens but when they have the new features they're not cheap
Okay, I am eventually going to start the build when I am back in SA in 2 weeks. Too many options to choose from speaker wise. I am thinking of not doing the sub, rather installing an amp for the door speakers. JBL has many options of stage 3 which would you recommend?
Hey! Nice video. I'm plannig to replace my spekers also, but I dont know what kind of speakers to buy and I dont know the size of the speakers. What kind of speakers did you use? Please be kind and help a dude:))
I was just thinking about this again today and depending on how the filters are made the wiring could make a difference. The alpine wiring diagram seems odd as wiring the amp to the woofer then looping on to the filter and then tweeter suggests the woofer would be trying to reproduce the high frequencies as well as the mid and lowers, whereas the factory Toyota wiring going to the tweeter then woofer depending on what’s in the combined tweeter capacitor could in theory send the high to the tweeter and the kids and lowers to the woofer. I don’t understand why the amp just doesn’t send everything g to the filter and it just splits above and below the set frequency to the appropriate speaker. A loop meaning the whole range going to any speaker unfiltered means that speaker is not receiving an optimal signal. In my mind anyway.
Hmm interesting, the way I did it I send the full signal to the door speaker amp, then filter the lows out for the door speaker, the tweeter then filters out the mids. Then I checked what range the mids start at and try mix about 20hz overlap
I haven’t installed an amp yet so hence my thought I am sending full range from head unit to door. The Alpine diagram expects the system to be amped which would explain why it doesn’t matter because the door speaker amp can filter out the sub bass at source so the 6x9 only sees above 60Hz
I'm sure the head unit has an EQ and then you just turn down bass. Won't be an issue at all 💪 too much bass from the door speakers rattles the window mechanism and doesn't sound good so it will probably be perfect just turned down a little
Thanks for your video. Help me alot installing new speaker on my 120 prado
Any time!!
Thanks for the detailed video, it inspired me to get my audio upgraded!
Glad I could help!
I could t have done this without you. I am just about to cut the wire from the tweeter plug and solder in to the splitter. Has taken a few rewatches to compare your wiring to my alpine R2 wiring diagram.
I am so glad to hear that, those alpines are going to sound great in there 😎
@@AdvSouthAfrica Not quite there yet. Looked at wiring diagram as I got confused with the factory harness in the door. Was scared to solder in till I am sure. Factory seems to be stereo to tweeter then on to woofer. Alpine diagram shows stereo to woofer then on to filter then tweeter. The woofer has 2 pairs of terminals for that reason. So I am still a bit confused and trying to draw them side by side on paper to get my head around it.
@@ClarkyXPH it should just be a single input and then the splitter will sort out the rest
Helpful. Thanks. I have component speakers to go in front doors rather than coax, but good to see what I need to pull off and what I will find underneath.
And they’re in. Once I checked wiring diagram and got my head around that the tweeter wires were just a loop and it didn’t matter whether it was amps to woofer then tweeter or other way around it was easy. 2nd side about quicker as I knew what i was doing. No amp yet just running off head unit.
Very detailed, thank you. Well done!
Thank you for your support 🙏
Hey bro!
How did you know which was earth and power from the original bracket to connect to new speaker??
Churr my bro!
Hey man, is replacing the tweeters a must do for this upgrade?
@@finnmcauliffe8652 you can probably get away with running the stock ones, I just replaced mine because the previous owner of the vehicle blew one
Cheers for this, am doing a full upgrade on my '03 Prado so it was good to see what to expect from the existing speakers. Do you get any rattle from the doors? Thinking of lining everything between door and card with some thin foam. Thanks again! 👍
Awesome stuff! I only got a little rattle from a window mechanism when I was making more bass in the doors before I put the subwoofer. Now that I have the sub, it's been amazing and no rattles in the doors! I'm glad this video helped you out!
You’re tweeter plug for power needs to be connected or else you won’t get any sound to speaker
What size is rear new speaker ?
6.5" in the rear doors
Hello, I also have a Toyota Prado 120, I want to install a JBL sound system, it's amplified, but I won't put the bass in. Which JBL speakers can I get a good sound effect if I install them?
Have a look at the stage 3 JBL speakers and amp them accordingly. I'm very happy with my stage 2 speakers but I am running the 8" JBL sub. Just remember that more power in the doors makes the window mechanisms rattle to secure everything that you can
Great video thanks, I am wanting to do mine this week. I have got a 12’ sub and amp already. Would you recommend the 2 way or 3 way JBL? Bare in mind I will need to remove the sub when I go over-landing as I have a drawer system fitted. Should I skip the sub rather.
Thank you! Are you planning to amp your door speakers? If so then go with the 3 way. If I was you I'd mount the sub amp under the driver seat and just run speaker cables to the back, then when you overland you can just disconnect the sub and you won't have anything in the way
Excellent I will do, what head unit would you recommend, I don’t want to go for anything too expensive, would be nice to have NAV and apple car play.
@robertbaxter546 I actually on the hunt for something similar, mine does Bluetooth but it bugs me that I can see the song name on my screen. There's a couple of brands that do screens but when they have the new features they're not cheap
Okay, I am eventually going to start the build when I am back in SA in 2 weeks.
Too many options to choose from speaker wise.
I am thinking of not doing the sub, rather installing an amp for the door speakers.
JBL has many options of stage 3 which would you recommend?
What about the GTO939 6x9?
Hey! Nice video. I'm plannig to replace my spekers also, but I dont know what kind of speakers to buy and I dont know the size of the speakers.
What kind of speakers did you use?
Please be kind and help a dude:))
Thanks! The front are 6" x 9" and the rear are 6,5"
I've used Jbl in this system
I was just thinking about this again today and depending on how the filters are made the wiring could make a difference. The alpine wiring diagram seems odd as wiring the amp to the woofer then looping on to the filter and then tweeter suggests the woofer would be trying to reproduce the high frequencies as well as the mid and lowers, whereas the factory Toyota wiring going to the tweeter then woofer depending on what’s in the combined tweeter capacitor could in theory send the high to the tweeter and the kids and lowers to the woofer. I don’t understand why the amp just doesn’t send everything g to the filter and it just splits above and below the set frequency to the appropriate speaker. A loop meaning the whole range going to any speaker unfiltered means that speaker is not receiving an optimal signal. In my mind anyway.
Hmm interesting, the way I did it I send the full signal to the door speaker amp, then filter the lows out for the door speaker, the tweeter then filters out the mids. Then I checked what range the mids start at and try mix about 20hz overlap
I haven’t installed an amp yet so hence my thought I am sending full range from head unit to door. The Alpine diagram expects the system to be amped which would explain why it doesn’t matter because the door speaker amp can filter out the sub bass at source so the 6x9 only sees above 60Hz
I'm sure the head unit has an EQ and then you just turn down bass. Won't be an issue at all 💪 too much bass from the door speakers rattles the window mechanism and doesn't sound good so it will probably be perfect just turned down a little