Habe dieses Jahr auch mein Bad im Altbau saniert. Der alte Bodenaufbau war interessant. 2 Lagen Fliesen, darunter Spanplatte gefolgt vom ursprünglichen Dielenboden. Spanplatten und Dielen waren total verfault, weshalb die Fliesen auch abgesackt und gebrochen waren. Zum Glück waren die Balken mit einem Querschnitt von 35 x 35 cm aus Eiche kaum betroffen. Laut Chronik, wurde das Haus 1536 erbaut. Zwischen den Balken befindet sich gestampfter Lehm. Habe den Boden mit Dampfbremse ausgelegt und das Trockenestrich System von RIGIDUR installiert. Hat wunderbar funktioniert und war an einem Tag erledigt und sofort begehbar. Restlicher Bodenaufbau mit Feuchtraumversiegelung und Klicklaminat aus Kunststoff vollflächig verklebt.
You guys were making comments criticizing him can’t criticize him. Where is your video. And then look at your ratings on your video. Then come back and comment and show the link on your video. The customer made you not want to pay for heated floors. This was a video. The time it took to do what he did is about the same amount of time it would’ve taken to put concrete on top of wood. Insulating the floor reduce the Cement and gave more “stability” to the floor overall if the floor was to be changed or drop down in height. He created (( “versatility.” )) But you lame contractors did not think of that. The guy in this video did a great job. Keep up the good work.
I've seen this method used for movement and weight purposes as well as cardboard forms used for large build ups most of the guys commenting negatively have never seen a commercial job or been critiqued by anyone else other than a homeowner who know no better
He should have used a semi-dry mix of sand and cement rather than a self leveling compound. Self leveling is meant to correct small deviations in floor height, typically less than 10mm. Sand and cement is much cheaper but requires more skill to implement. Im a plasterer and use it all the time. His prep was very good but I suspect he is a joiner rather than a professional floor screeder. Thanks for posting I learned something from it.
There's a few companys that make compund that can do up to 50mm in one pour nowadays to be fair. But i would never use it on a chipboard floor even with that feeble wire he put under it.
Hi sand and cement is better materials for that floor screeded but floor level compounds that the wrong materials for that job/ gib board is wet and starting damaged /finishing the floor is not good enough still rough and more cleaning up /prep works all good enough I think you are builder not a solid plastering thanks you very much you done the job but I am learning what you doing and you learn on my comments cheers brother
What incredible talent....this craftsman is got a lot of talent and in my experience with this process he could teach many from his very professional job. If he is ever looking for a job ..I would hire him in a heartbeat..well done
It would make a floor screeder weep when ever I saw any professional screeder in action it was a semi dry mix and then screeded, then done with a wooden or plastic float to get a finish, never in all my days in construction have I ever seen a floor put down this way
Wrong, can't use self leveling compound it's too deep, you'd need a few hits at it, with wet gear like that, once levelled and going off it needs a steel trowel finish. But let's be honest he done it all wrong lol
@Glyn Owen I've never seen it, only selfleveling you have to mix with sharp sand to bulk it up. Also as the gear he's used is do wet the drying time would be over a month before a floor covering could be put down.
I don't understand these comments that he's done a naff job. He has done a good job, I suppose he finishing off with tiles.... Personally I don't like it's all in the bag mixes......never heard off a screed bag mix. I think he was using postcrete .;o ) I'm self employed and always work on a price, so on his side. It's easy for anonymous people slag everything off, fair comment is good but don't bad mouth just for sale of it. What you people out there think. Regards to you all
adangerousidiot, The end result is good, in the end I guess that's all that matters. I am a master tile-setter, I install tile marble, slate, and also terrazzo. Many newer installers do it this way, but I know the old ways of the trade. I mix the sand and cement myself, and I don't waste time with those leveling ties on the walls , and that is because of the cement and sand ratio I use has less water, and holds up. It is very difficult to write and explain my method here. I think he did a good job, even though he would go broke around my parts of the world with this method if it takes him more than 3 hours to do this job ( alone with no helper).
Alter Schwede, machst das aber extrem aufwendig und umständlich, für ein paar qm Estrich. Letzte Woche habe ich 15 qm Estrich ins Bad eingebracht. Sogar noch selbst mit dem Mischer (Rheinsand und Trasszement) erdfeucht angemischt, mit der Karre rein gefahren und mit der Latte sauber verdichtet und abgezogen. Das ganze hat 3,5 Stunden gedauert.
Wrong. It's probably the most UNPROFFESSIONAL attempt at levelling a floor that most builders have ever seen. There is so many mistakes it's not funny. Having enough money to buy a cheap laser level and a metal rail for your circular saw does not mean anything whatsoever about the quality of the result.
@@johncoops6897 maybe you are right with the unprofessional, I don't know. But you are wrong with the cheap metal rail for his circular saw. Have you ever seen how much this Festool saw and rail cost? Far to be cheap, it is top end tools.
@@totoleheros7506 My word "cheap" related to the laser level. Yes, I know that those rails are expensive, however my point is that no matter HOW much equipment you use and how much time you waste, this is not the correct way to do this task. It doesn't NEED to be level... in fact the entire point of such a wet area floor is to not have it level, but to have a fall towards a drain. Also, the final surface levels and flatness are sorted out by the tilers, who place the tiles on a 3 to 10mm thick bed of adhesive. They set the levels on the *tops+* of the tiles, not the bottom, and it doesn't matter whether the underfloor is perfectly smooth or flat. It's a total waste of time to create an underfloor at 0.1mm accuracy when the following trade doesn't even use that surface as a reference point.
All these negative comments like everyone is perfect. This dude is a extremely hard worker. Weather it's done correctly or not, give the guy some credit for making a living for his family.
Aside from using this type of concrete for a more then 1/2 application ,the prep was impeccable , a little over the top , but great job....mesh ,this type has to be pulled off the ground to be doing its job , and not proper again for this type of mortar or ciment what ever you want to call it. Why so thick tho? 3/4 substrate is more then enough for code in my neck of the wood....anyway , in the end , love the attention to detail , minus final choice of material for levelling .
Above and beyond. Nice work, I'm sure it was a design thing of the customers to raise it like that (the man with the money is almost always right). Of course I don't know how he could make any money moving as fast as he did 🙃😝, still you can't say he wasn't thual and completely well done. This job will never come back to bite him.
@@tonygibbs9821 I'm pretty sure the title is the result of a bad automatic translation. Nobody wants to embarrass the guy. Some of the comments are unfortunate tho'.
The screed used is Baumit Estrick EB 42 which is a dry type of screed with only 4 liters / 35kg pack, not a self leveling liquid type, hence the decomposing when mixed and poured out like a selfe leveling liquid type of screed. This is printed on every package. When prepared properly the screed is described as a stiff to plastically/kneadable composition. If the majority of professionals is applying great and expensive material is such a way they should be thoroghly embarrassed. ch.baumit.com/produkte/estriche_boden/estriche/baumit-estrich-eb-42.html
This is translated from German and "Bad" means bathroom in German. It has nothing to do with bad work, he is dong just fine as you pointed out already.
is das nicht fliesetrich der extra dünn ist um sich selbst zu nivellieren? die armierung scheint mir nur etwas tief, sonst alles richtig gemacht in meinen unfachmännischen augen.
Da muss schon min. eine 15mm kommen! Das der Kerl sich nicht schämt so nen scheiß zu veröffentlichten, jeder richtige Fliesen oder Estrichleger hätte Ihm was erzählt.
Du hast recht. die nasse Pampe schwindet, da wird dir jeder Fliesenleger einen Rapport vom feinsten herauslassen. Die Ecken werden sich stellen, Risse auftreten.. Nacharbeiten kosten mehr, als der Estrich. Heimprojekt, mehr nicht.
Сеть не должна быть против пленки, для этой цели есть пластмассовые «туфли», которые увеличивают высоту сетки до 3 см, а от стены должны иметь зазор 2,5-3 см.
Да ещё и тонкую. МАК не больше тройки. Надо бы пятёрочку хотя бы, а ячейку можно и десять на десять под такой слой. Ну и ясно, что везде отступ нужен от края, от дна. Возле труб не надо
для лучшей работы сетки было б неплохо под неё подложить закладки и сделать слой сетки в середине заливаемого раствора.. И саму стяжку разделить на 3 сектора демпфером..
Ну и логика у тебя, куклин. То ты кладеш сетку в середине, чтобы стяжка была одной целой, а потом демпфером хочешь разделить её на три части. В данном случае сетка отлично выполняет свои функции (предотвращает от разделения единой стяжки на несколько частей). Не обязательно класть сетку именно в центр стяжки, а желательно положить в нижней части.
бетон хорошо себя ведёт при зжатии,при растяжении для того,что бы он остался целым ему необходима арматура.Чем больший кусок стяжки (или бетона)есть-тем больший температурный коэфициент (растяжения-сжатия )на него воздействует. Разделение стяжки на зоны способствует сохранению целостности структуры сделанного изделия в более длинный период нежели дожить до зарплаты.
Блин,я так же работаю один.😅 Тяжело очень. Молодец, мужик! Единственно что плохо,то этот пенопласт-он просядет под весом стяжки и в дальнейшем будет тоже тихо,день за днем,просаживаться и плитка с пола будет отходить.Появятся щели и пипец.
Man I just notice that he started working when it was daylight and he ended with a not so hot lamp, lets give the man a hand. With no help and no real tools and maybe no Home Depot around.😭 I know, that sucks.
That is critical indeed, now it doesn't have any function. Other point is that the concrete isn't mixed proper. The preparations were great! I guess he was learning as well.. Thanx for the video, I learned a lot!
He could have saved a lot of time and effort by putting up the metal strips first, then simply lining up the edge foam strip under it. Instead he measures that line THREE times - lay the foam, trim the foam (no idea why he did that too, instead of just lining up the top edge on the laser line), then the metal strip. Apart from that, he seems to know what he is doing, and his work is very careful and precise, which is good to see (I refer to the carpentry, not the concrete, I don't know concrete).
Amazing video to watch. I don't know how long the whole job took to do but the guy worked hard at it continuously. This is the sort of worker that you would never find in Canada as the only workers I've ever come across are the lazy cut corners workers. Canadian workers charge the most, to bodgit and legit. Oh! that would be a great name for a Cadadian construction company.
I do this kind of work professionally. I would have done it a little differently. But he did do a good job. There had to be a reason why he was raising the floor I am assuming the rest of the floor was getting raised as well
Todo bien y perfecto hasta antes de vaciar la mezcla, el acero nunca va hasta la base, debe quedar embebido en el concreto, con ese espesor debe quedar al menos a 25 cms con ayuda de calzas y/o "galletas", ayuda a dar fuerza al concreto y no quebrar al fraguar y luego usó pasta niveladora con exceso de agua, debió usar agua - arena y gruesos- cemento portland en proporciones adecuadas para formar concreto y haber hecho anclaje en paredes para no sobrecargar al piso de abajo si este es entrepaño, creo que lo es ya que tiene madera de baja calidad (aglomerada) pudiendo ser al menos triplay. Creo que va a instalar vitropiso sobre ese "vaciado" ya que le quedó como "firme" base. En fin, aunque la traducción del titulo quedó inadecuada por el traductor automático (por eso creó conflicto en los comentarios) si es criticable. Tiene muy buenas herramientas es indiscutible. Saludos desde México, edo. de Coahuila....Ing. Victor Hugo Jiménez
I randomly came upon your videos. You have some amazing skills and techniques. I have taken some pointers from you. I should like to post some pictures of what Ive been making.
Stimmt, da unten macht sie überhaupt keinen Sinn. 1/3 Überdeckung. Entweder oben oder unten. So hätte der gute Mann einen 100€ Schein in die (zu dünne) Brühe werfen können, wäre genauso sinnvoll.lol.
In dem Video ist einiges nicht nach der anerkannten Regel der Technik gemacht worden. 1. Randstreifen tackern ist ok, aber man sollte an die Schallübertragung denken. Dann sollte man diese nach dem verlegen der Fliesen erst abschneiden. 2.Dämmung nicht versetzt verlegt! 3. AKS Gitter zu tief und zu nah an der Wand ( man sollte etwas Luft lassen)!
Probably on Beam and Block (look it up) with 100mm closed cell foam insulating layer overlayed with OSB. A common floor system. You'd be surprised how much weight that would support. Don't assume that floor is the same as you'd build.
As steel is great in tension and concrete is good for compression, the mesh would be best raised slightly off the floor on some little chips of stone, cement or 'chairs' so that it has a good protective layer of grout/concrete under the steel mesh to protect from corrosion but well down from the top surface.
you do realize millions of workers used to work with concrete for hundreds of years without respirators? not for 10 but whole working life, 20-30-40 years...
The process of screeding (leveling off by pulling a board across the wet concrete) was left a bit rough. It looks fairly level so it's ok for placing tiles. That's why there was no finish floating done. The few rough spots can be ground down with a diamond abrasive wheel so it's not big deal. In all fairness, it's a really awkward place to work. The lighting was crappy and you really need good light to see what you are doing. Plus, no one was there to help him. Also, he had poor tools to do the job. All in all, it's satisfactory considering what it's for. Basically, tiles are going on top of it so it's no big deal.
Johnknoefler That's not really the point. Leveling a floor in this way is difficult and imprecise. Despite the initial use of a laser level it is not practical to achieve a good result by sort of winging the screeding in this way. Many years of practical floor tiling convince me that this is not an easy job in the best of circumstances, carpenters do not understand the tolerances needed, and a better system of perimeter boards to screed to are needed. Well done to the flooring guy for his job, but not overall a noteworthy system.
graham smith This is the point. If there is no drain, the floor can not be flat. It has to be up to 1cm (3/8 ") high by the walls, and lower in the center.
Wer soll den denn bezahlen? max. 1/2 Tag arbeit wurde durch den typen in 1-2 verwandelt, jedes stück styropor nachmessen vorm schneiden? Randdämmstreifen mit Laser abschneiden anstatt hinterher ein mal mit'm Cutter längs zu gehen? WTF
Vor allem wird der Randstreifen geklebt. Schallbrücken in dieser Größenordnung durch die Tackernadeln , gehen in einem Mehrfamilienhaus never ever.lol.
Ich habe mich köstlich amüsiert wie dieser Unwissender sich abgequält hat. Echt lustig. Der hat fast alles falsch gemacht was man wirklich falsch machen kann.
That's just wet mixed concrete, just like for foundation, takes about 1 week dry before ready to lay tiles. Nothing wrong with the way he did it. However I prefer half dry concrete mix to make bathrooms
а вот и нет, все правильно, под стяжкой не прочное основание и нижнее армирование работает на растяжение. На такой площади стяжку не порвет, если смесь правильная конечно
@@McKarabas Я бы с вами согласился при условии что арматура была в стяжке, а так... стяжка лежит на арматуре... Проверено временем, СНиП... Опираюсь на многолетний опыт.
И сколько вы за много лет армированных стяжек демонтировали? )) Раствор неизбежно под сетку затечет, ее зачастую вообще наверх поднимает если не закрепить. Вы не путайте те обстоятельства, когда сетка закладывается для распределения напряжений в самой стяжке, здесь задача другая, распределить нагрузку которая передается сверху.
@@McKarabas Я с 1989г на стройке, начинал с рабочего, 11 лет руковожу ст.комп....вы думаете я считал сколько?))) При условии, что основание не жесткое, требуется сформировать плиту, а не жесткий подстилающий слой для распределения нагрузки. В данном случае распределение нагрузки возложено на тепло (вибро) -изоляционный слой, а при наличии таких слоев требуется формировании жесткого основания (не путать с подстилающим слоем), с армированием в нижнем слое на растяжение т.к. остается вероятность прогиба, при чем не зависимо на каком основании формируется "пирог"... Поднимет арматуру или нет...вот, для чего нужно играть в эту лотерею, когда можно установить уровень залегания? Зачастую поднимает арм. при вибрировании и то не равномерно, а тут...где-то поднимет, где-то нет...по этому я и констатировал, что армирование для галочки и расхода бюджета...
странная штука, похоже на цпс, но очень жидкое. Сетка на дне лежит(смыла от неё нет). А вот маяки прикольно сделано для маленькой площади) Ну и лишняя работа обрезания демпфера и клеёнки сразу. Проще потом по высохшей стяжке обрезать)
You forgot to mention him shooting the liner full of holes with his staple gun, all around the edges where any water will leak down first. And what about the fact that there was no waste water outlet? And no fall on the floor, so even the slightest spillage of water will pool and a bigger one will flow out into the adjacent room?
At 2:36 there are 2 pencil lines on the wall in the background- the highest is finished floor, which would include floor tiles. He's probably working to the lower, bolder line.
Ein leicht feuchter Zementestrich z.B. mit Schnellbinder hätte bessere Dienste geleistet. So ein gematsche kann man sich ja nicht ansehen. Naja, trotzdem das Ergebnis zählt.
Why raise the floor? He has just created a step up into the bathroom! Why the insulation? it's not needed on a wooden floor! If you have to insulate and screed the floor why not install underfloor heating Rather a pointless vid
The whole house is renovated, so all floors will be insulated.... Floor heating in a bathroom isn't necessary, you don't need a permanent heating system, but a fast warm up when you use it. And why insulation? because insulation regulation requires it for eco labels and also if watching other vids, it's an old farm renovated, the floor isn't on crawlspace but directly on ground, which adds thermo leaks.
Habe dieses Jahr auch mein Bad im Altbau saniert. Der alte Bodenaufbau war interessant. 2 Lagen Fliesen, darunter Spanplatte gefolgt vom ursprünglichen Dielenboden. Spanplatten und Dielen waren total verfault, weshalb die Fliesen auch abgesackt und gebrochen waren. Zum Glück waren die Balken mit einem Querschnitt von 35 x 35 cm aus Eiche kaum betroffen. Laut Chronik, wurde das Haus 1536 erbaut. Zwischen den Balken befindet sich gestampfter Lehm. Habe den Boden mit Dampfbremse ausgelegt und das Trockenestrich System von RIGIDUR installiert. Hat wunderbar funktioniert und war an einem Tag erledigt und sofort begehbar. Restlicher Bodenaufbau mit Feuchtraumversiegelung und Klicklaminat aus Kunststoff vollflächig verklebt.
Sascha Funk
Sascha Funk ggg
Sascha Funk yg
You guys were making comments criticizing him can’t criticize him. Where is your video. And then look at your ratings on your video. Then come back and comment and show the link on your video.
The customer made you not want to pay for heated floors. This was a video. The time it took to do what he did is about the same amount of time it would’ve taken to put concrete on top of wood.
Insulating the floor reduce the Cement and gave more “stability” to the floor overall if the floor was to be changed or drop down in height. He created (( “versatility.” )) But you lame contractors did not think of that.
The guy in this video did a great job. Keep up the good work.
I've seen this method used for movement and weight purposes as well as cardboard forms used for large build ups most of the guys commenting negatively have never seen a commercial job or been critiqued by anyone else other than a homeowner who know no better
Why He laid that reinforcement screen? Should ift up at least 1 cm! (otherwise useless!)
Love the knee trolley he's on
I think he's done a great job - Well done !!
He should have used a semi-dry mix of sand and cement rather than a self leveling compound. Self leveling is meant to correct small deviations in floor height, typically less than 10mm. Sand and cement is much cheaper but requires more skill to implement. Im a plasterer and use it all the time. His prep was very good but I suspect he is a joiner rather than a professional floor screeder. Thanks for posting I learned something from it.
Garry Wright The mesh was pushed to the bottom. Where is the water supposed to go if he's pouring on plastic? This was painful to watch.
It doesnt seem to me be a self leveling compound, but I could be wrong, other than that it's ok
There's a few companys that make compund that can do up to 50mm in one pour nowadays to be fair. But i would never use it on a chipboard floor even with that feeble wire he put under it.
Hi sand and cement is better materials for that floor screeded but floor level compounds that the wrong materials for that job/ gib board is wet and starting damaged /finishing the floor is not good enough still rough and more cleaning up /prep works all good enough I think you are builder not a solid plastering thanks you very much you done the job but I am learning what you doing and you learn on my comments cheers brother
He didn't use self-levelling compound. He used Estrich (screed) which is exactly what you said but he definitely made it way too wet.
Единственное в жизни что все бы хотели, так это делать ремонт с такой скоростью:-)))
👍👏👏👏👏👏
NÃO AO COMUNISMO!!!!
x2 рулит
Это што за хуйню он тут делает ? И не песко бетон и не налевной. Нахуя ?
@@olegotdelka37 как раз стяжку и делает. глянь, что такое у него в мешке- baumit EB 42
A lot of detailed work for such a small space. Takes a lot of patience and dedication to the process to get results like that. Hats off to you.
Excelente trabajo maestro me impresionó cuando empezó a usar el láser y cada detalle de su trabajo gracias.
Всё хорошо, кроме одного!) Армирование должно быть, как минимум, в нижней трети стяжки! Сетку следовало бы приподнять на 2-3 см !)
attention to detail is superb , I wish I had his patience job well done!
Defo got skills and experience and right tools for the job youve collected over time ace job!
What incredible talent....this craftsman is got a lot of talent and in my experience with this process he could teach many from his very professional job.
If he is ever looking for a job ..I would hire him in a heartbeat..well done
Egal wie gut du deine Arbeit gemacht hast, Der Cheff wird immer zu dir sagen dass es schneller und besser hätte sein können
It would make a floor screeder weep when ever I saw any professional screeder in action it was a semi dry mix and then screeded, then done with a wooden or plastic float to get a finish, never in all my days in construction have I ever seen a floor put down this way
Agreed. If he's goin to mix it so wet, then use self levelling compound then there's no need for a straight edge.
How to do it wrong......Jesús christ!
@@stephbhoy1 pretty sure that's self leveling compound with price pretty high much cheaper to go with this mix
Wrong, can't use self leveling compound it's too deep, you'd need a few hits at it, with wet gear like that, once levelled and going off it needs a steel trowel finish. But let's be honest he done it all wrong lol
@Glyn Owen I've never seen it, only selfleveling you have to mix with sharp sand to bulk it up. Also as the gear he's used is do wet the drying time would be over a month before a floor covering could be put down.
Good job mate at least you finished it. Seeing all the crappie plumber job I like your job better 👍
Great work, nice job, give him a pay-rise! - Phil
I don't understand these comments that he's done a naff job. He has done a good job, I suppose he finishing off with tiles....
Personally I don't like it's all in the bag mixes......never heard off a screed bag mix.
I think he was using postcrete .;o )
I'm self employed and always work on a price, so on his side.
It's easy for anonymous people slag everything off, fair comment is good but don't bad mouth just for sale of it.
What you people out there think. Regards to you all
adangerousidiot,
The end result is good, in the end I guess that's all that matters.
I am a master tile-setter, I install tile marble, slate, and also terrazzo. Many newer installers do it this way, but I know the old ways of the trade. I mix the sand and cement myself, and I don't waste time with those leveling ties on the walls , and that is because of the cement and sand ratio I use has less water, and holds up.
It is very difficult to write and explain my method here.
I think he did a good job, even though he would go broke around my parts of the world with this method if it takes him more than 3 hours to do this job ( alone with no helper).
Due to the speed of this video, it sounds a lot alike Scrat, the Sabre-Tooth Squirrel from Ice Age, Sniffin' around with his acorn...
How did u even think of this?but sooo correct!!! Pmsl
You know what I did? Sped it up to 2x. Awesome
Hahaha yes, that was my thought also. Had to go to the comment section to see if it was only me LOL
Or Benny Hill ... it only needed the music to make it so .... however, it was a good watch and I did learn a few tips
So many videos with, no narration, are bedded with bad music. Love this sound.
Alter Schwede, machst das aber extrem aufwendig und umständlich, für ein paar qm Estrich. Letzte Woche habe ich 15 qm Estrich ins Bad eingebracht. Sogar noch selbst mit dem Mischer (Rheinsand und Trasszement) erdfeucht angemischt, mit der Karre rein gefahren und mit der Latte sauber verdichtet und abgezogen. Das ganze hat 3,5 Stunden gedauert.
At this point the client decides they want UFH or the spark remembers he didn't lay a cable 😂
most excellent job completed by a solitary professional
Wrong. It's probably the most UNPROFFESSIONAL attempt at levelling a floor that most builders have ever seen. There is so many mistakes it's not funny. Having enough money to buy a cheap laser level and a metal rail for your circular saw does not mean anything whatsoever about the quality of the result.
Have to agree with that Edward!
@@johncoops6897 maybe you are right with the unprofessional, I don't know. But you are wrong with the cheap metal rail for his circular saw. Have you ever seen how much this Festool saw and rail cost? Far to be cheap, it is top end tools.
@@totoleheros7506 My word "cheap" related to the laser level. Yes, I know that those rails are expensive, however my point is that no matter HOW much equipment you use and how much time you waste, this is not the correct way to do this task.
It doesn't NEED to be level... in fact the entire point of such a wet area floor is to not have it level, but to have a fall towards a drain.
Also, the final surface levels and flatness are sorted out by the tilers, who place the tiles on a 3 to 10mm thick bed of adhesive. They set the levels on the *tops+* of the tiles, not the bottom, and it doesn't matter whether the underfloor is perfectly smooth or flat. It's a total waste of time to create an underfloor at 0.1mm accuracy when the following trade doesn't even use that surface as a reference point.
All these negative comments like everyone is perfect. This dude is a extremely hard worker. Weather it's done correctly or not, give the guy some credit for making a living for his family.
عمل رائع وكامل اتوقع نتائج ممتازة و ناجحة
جيد انه لم يستعمل البيتومين و لفائف العزل
شكرا لك مقطع مفيد
This is amazing! Great work!!
spierdalaj
Aside from using this type of concrete for a more then 1/2 application ,the prep was impeccable , a little over the top , but great job....mesh ,this type has to be pulled off the ground to be doing its job , and not proper again for this type of mortar or ciment what ever you want to call it. Why so thick tho? 3/4 substrate is more then enough for code in my neck of the wood....anyway , in the end , love the attention to detail , minus final choice of material for levelling .
Oh he’s good ! Really good! 👍🏻
No.never
This is for two people you did alone! Good job!
2 малярных маяка 20 минут работы - качество тоже самое (прикольная задумка с приспособой для выставления лазера)
Ano i vidna shto u vas v Rassii kacestva lutshe cem v Italii ...... nu vy i pridurki kaneshna ... 2 maliarnyh maeka 🤣🤣
@@mariocapuleti8618 Качество везде на самых разный уровнях. Придурков и у вас хватает, поаккуратнее с ярлыками.
He's fast! He's got good tools. He's done this before. And that = getting paid here in the U.S.
How about guarantee..
@@arpadprp1778 no guarantee 🤗😂
Above and beyond. Nice work, I'm sure it was a design thing of the customers to raise it like that (the man with the money is almost always right). Of course I don't know how he could make any money moving as fast as he did 🙃😝, still you can't say he wasn't thual and completely well done. This job will never come back to bite him.
oddly compulsive viewing. I love this
If this is an embarrassing standard of work, then I'm afraid a majority of professionals of their trade should be thoroughly embarrassed!
@@tonygibbs9821 I'm pretty sure the title is the result of a bad automatic translation. Nobody wants to embarrass the guy. Some of the comments are unfortunate tho'.
The screed used is Baumit Estrick EB 42 which is a dry type of screed with only 4 liters / 35kg pack, not a self leveling liquid type, hence the decomposing when mixed and poured out like a selfe leveling liquid type of screed. This is printed on every package. When prepared properly the screed is described as a stiff to plastically/kneadable composition. If the majority of professionals is applying great and expensive material is such a way they should be thoroghly embarrassed. ch.baumit.com/produkte/estriche_boden/estriche/baumit-estrich-eb-42.html
This is translated from German and "Bad" means bathroom in German. It has nothing to do with bad work, he is dong just fine as you pointed out already.
Estrich kenne ich erdfeucht, man gut das da noch Fliesen draufkommen- aber mit 10mm Zahnung den Kleber drauf, damit die Huckel überbrückt werden.
Michael Hermann Das sehe ich genauso 😉
is das nicht fliesetrich der extra dünn ist um sich selbst zu nivellieren? die armierung scheint mir nur etwas tief, sonst alles richtig gemacht in meinen unfachmännischen augen.
ok vergiss was ich geschrieben hab, da fliest garnichts...
Da muss schon min. eine 15mm kommen! Das der Kerl sich nicht schämt so nen scheiß zu veröffentlichten, jeder richtige Fliesen oder Estrichleger hätte Ihm was erzählt.
Du hast recht. die nasse Pampe schwindet, da wird dir jeder Fliesenleger einen Rapport vom feinsten herauslassen. Die Ecken werden sich stellen, Risse auftreten.. Nacharbeiten kosten mehr, als der Estrich. Heimprojekt, mehr nicht.
He has done a good job, why people always tried to find minimum errors in what other people do and people who critizace him have never even cut a log.
Great work excellently done !!
everything was ''ok'' until he tries to level the floor...omg.
Всё отлично но одно зачем он ложил сетку если она снизу стяжки а не в толще.
Сетку правильнее класть вниз.
Сеть не должна быть против пленки, для этой цели есть пластмассовые «туфли», которые увеличивают высоту сетки до 3 см, а от стены должны иметь зазор 2,5-3 см.
Правильно
Да ещё и тонкую. МАК не больше тройки. Надо бы пятёрочку хотя бы, а ячейку можно и десять на десять под такой слой. Ну и ясно, что везде отступ нужен от края, от дна. Возле труб не надо
Зачем стока епкатся налил разгладить и всё делов, кусочек линолеума под угол мебели и всего делов то
my knees and back are still in pain. hard work like that.
Eure Videos sind immer ein Genuss anzusehen.
для лучшей работы сетки было б неплохо под неё подложить закладки и сделать слой сетки в середине заливаемого раствора.. И саму стяжку разделить на 3 сектора демпфером..
Ну и логика у тебя, куклин. То ты кладеш сетку в середине, чтобы стяжка была одной целой, а потом демпфером хочешь разделить её на три части. В данном случае сетка отлично выполняет свои функции (предотвращает от разделения единой стяжки на несколько частей). Не обязательно класть сетку именно в центр стяжки, а желательно положить в нижней части.
Для сетки нужно 1-2см защитного слоя....
Клоун тот кто етого незнает)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
бетон хорошо себя ведёт при зжатии,при растяжении для того,что бы он остался целым ему необходима арматура.Чем больший кусок стяжки (или бетона)есть-тем больший температурный коэфициент (растяжения-сжатия )на него воздействует. Разделение стяжки на зоны способствует сохранению целостности структуры сделанного изделия в более длинный период нежели дожить до зарплаты.
Мудрые советы, тот кто слышит тот поймёт.
how does that thing stay level when he keeps moving it
Блин,я так же работаю один.😅 Тяжело очень.
Молодец, мужик! Единственно что плохо,то этот пенопласт-он просядет под весом стяжки и в дальнейшем будет тоже тихо,день за днем,просаживаться и плитка с пола будет отходить.Появятся щели и пипец.
I've been doing floors for more than 10 now. What was he doing with the screed
This reminded me of Pingu with the speeded up movements and odd sounds
Man I just notice that he started working when it was daylight and he ended with a not so hot lamp, lets give the man a hand. With no help and no real tools and maybe no Home Depot around.😭 I know, that sucks.
11qq
This is a man who enjoys his work.
Eres un fenómeno, todo un profesional.
personally I would've lift the mesh of the floor...
That is critical indeed, now it doesn't have any function. Other point is that the concrete isn't mixed proper. The preparations were great! I guess he was learning as well.. Thanx for the video, I learned a lot!
@@s0012823 The underside is under tension when load is on top, so I don't think it has no function. That said I would also have lifted it.
@@metallitech The steel will corrode when it is too close to the bottom. I must be >2-3cm.
could have used bits of the mesh to lift it off the floor. Or bent the sides down like feet. Even a .5" would have been better.
He did everything perfect.... until the concrete
He could have saved a lot of time and effort by putting up the metal strips first, then simply lining up the edge foam strip under it. Instead he measures that line THREE times - lay the foam, trim the foam (no idea why he did that too, instead of just lining up the top edge on the laser line), then the metal strip. Apart from that, he seems to know what he is doing, and his work is very careful and precise, which is good to see (I refer to the carpentry, not the concrete, I don't know concrete).
Amazing video to watch. I don't know how long the whole job took to do but the guy worked hard at it continuously. This is the sort of worker that you would never find in Canada as the only workers I've ever come across are the lazy cut corners workers. Canadian workers charge the most, to bodgit and legit. Oh! that would be a great name for a Cadadian construction company.
I do this kind of work professionally. I would have done it a little differently. But he did do a good job. There had to be a reason why he was raising the floor I am assuming the rest of the floor was getting raised as well
i have seen "professional" doing a crapper job!
...only get "professionals" like you in the US and UK
Stfu mozzarella head
Alex psk fuck you to you piece of shit!
@@cristomario9118 this are true german "professionals". btw. great idea but poor details.
amazing. He is very skilled!
Thanks for sharing the floor screed pour.
na ob da der wasserzementwert stimmt ! ?
buenos videos
construccion
work#1
Me ha impresionado ver tu forma de trabajar lo perfecionista que eres un saludo desde España
Todo bien y perfecto hasta antes de vaciar la mezcla, el acero nunca va hasta la base, debe quedar embebido en el concreto, con ese espesor debe quedar al menos a 25 cms con ayuda de calzas y/o "galletas", ayuda a dar fuerza al concreto y no quebrar al fraguar y luego usó pasta niveladora con exceso de agua, debió usar agua - arena y gruesos- cemento portland en proporciones adecuadas para formar concreto y haber hecho anclaje en paredes para no sobrecargar al piso de abajo si este es entrepaño, creo que lo es ya que tiene madera de baja calidad (aglomerada) pudiendo ser al menos triplay. Creo que va a instalar vitropiso sobre ese "vaciado" ya que le quedó como "firme" base. En fin, aunque la traducción del titulo quedó inadecuada por el traductor automático (por eso creó conflicto en los comentarios) si es criticable. Tiene muy buenas herramientas es indiscutible. Saludos desde México, edo. de Coahuila....Ing. Victor Hugo Jiménez
I randomly came upon your videos. You have some amazing skills and techniques. I have taken some pointers from you. I should like to post some pictures of what Ive been making.
Kommt die Armierung nicht in die Mitte des Unterlagsboden?
nein, wieso?
Hängt vom Lastfall ab.
Stimmt, da unten macht sie überhaupt keinen Sinn. 1/3 Überdeckung. Entweder oben oder unten. So hätte der gute Mann einen 100€ Schein in die (zu dünne) Brühe werfen können, wäre genauso sinnvoll.lol.
In der Mitte ist die statische Nulllinie, also ist da die Armierung weggeschmissenes Geld.
Sie muß ins untere Drittel, dort treten die Zugkräfte auf.
In dem Video ist einiges nicht nach der anerkannten Regel der Technik gemacht worden.
1. Randstreifen tackern ist ok, aber man sollte an die Schallübertragung denken.
Dann sollte man diese nach dem verlegen der Fliesen erst abschneiden.
2.Dämmung nicht versetzt verlegt!
3. AKS Gitter zu tief und zu nah an der Wand ( man sollte etwas Luft lassen)!
And after 2 weeks the floor falls through to the apartment below lmao :P
why?
@@mr.waffle9736 25000000 lbs of mix on a 1/2 plywood subfloor with 2ft on center floor joists
Cheapest quality,
Just for joke.
I think he build for sale, not for his
Probably on Beam and Block (look it up) with 100mm closed cell foam insulating layer overlayed with OSB. A common floor system. You'd be surprised how much weight that would support. Don't assume that floor is the same as you'd build.
+Thor The Northern
I once saw a very dry piece of turd stranded in the desert, it has absolutely NO sense of humour.
That improvised laser stand is cool.
Should the mesh not be more in the middle of the floor levering compound instead of hard down, but other than that he did a good job great work.
As steel is great in tension and concrete is good for compression, the mesh would be best raised slightly off the floor on some little chips of stone, cement or 'chairs' so that it has a good protective layer of grout/concrete under the steel mesh to protect from corrosion but well down from the top surface.
איזה יופי, בְּחָכְמָה יִבָּנֶה בָּיִת וּבִתְבוּנָה יִתְכּוֹנָן
Give him ten years breathing that dust in and he wont be doing anymore bathrooms
you do realize millions of workers used to work with concrete for hundreds of years without respirators? not for 10 but whole working life, 20-30-40 years...
Jp you are good at predicting the future? so what are you doing here?
Hugo B.
smartboy
ruclips.net/video/6JElP1lHLk4/видео.html
Beautiful. What a nice and fast work. 😵😊😄😄😄
Ich wünschte, ich könnte so schnell arbeiten, dann war mein Badezimmer fertig, hahaha
seems a good job except for mix -dont know why it has to be that perfect.its a bathroom????
allanpkr because if someone comes to my house or works on anything of mine and has that it’ll fucking do attitude they soon get shown the door
can someone explain what he did wrong. looks ok to me
The process of screeding (leveling off by pulling a board across the wet concrete) was left a bit rough. It looks fairly level so it's ok for placing tiles. That's why there was no finish floating done. The few rough spots can be ground down with a diamond abrasive wheel so it's not big deal. In all fairness, it's a really awkward place to work. The lighting was crappy and you really need good light to see what you are doing. Plus, no one was there to help him. Also, he had poor tools to do the job. All in all, it's satisfactory considering what it's for. Basically, tiles are going on top of it so it's no big deal.
i assumed he was going to tile it.
Johnknoefler That's not really the point. Leveling a floor in this way is difficult and imprecise. Despite the initial use of a laser level it is not practical to achieve a good result by sort of winging the screeding in this way. Many years of practical floor tiling convince me that this is not an easy job in the best of circumstances, carpenters do not understand the tolerances needed, and a better system of perimeter boards to screed to are needed. Well done to the flooring guy for his job, but not overall a noteworthy system.
Honestly, his screed technique was a bit clumsy but it will pass.
johnknoefler I
You have the best job work master but please use safety and precaution And use a dust mask.
Thank you.
I don't know where to begin with this, as a screeder this made me weep a little, then piss myself laughing
Amen. There's so many things wrong I don't even know where to start
Can i rent this worker, he is so fast😂😂😂
так и не понял, почему ванная смущенная))
Гуглоперводчик наверное чудит) Хорошо хоть не с китайского переводили)))
Смущенная - потому.что у него штаны постоянно сползают до бикини. :-)
Ей стыдно...
Возможно, совмещённая
verlegen/ положить (залить) ausgleichsschüttung /самовыравнивающаяся смесь
ive seen a shower floor been poured clearly it was done wrong. this is a professional. glad i now know the correct way
Que CARALHA de título é esse???
R.:"fazendo um contrapiso com o máximo de frescura"!!!!!!
Pensei a mesma coisa!!!!!!!!!
Where is the drain? Guess I missed it.
that will be any lowest point at the wall junction.lol
graham smith This is the point. If there is no drain, the floor can not be flat. It has to be up to 1cm (3/8 ") high by the walls, and lower in the center.
Wer soll den denn bezahlen? max. 1/2 Tag arbeit wurde durch den typen in 1-2 verwandelt, jedes stück styropor nachmessen vorm schneiden? Randdämmstreifen mit Laser abschneiden anstatt hinterher ein mal mit'm Cutter längs zu gehen? WTF
Vor allem wird der Randstreifen geklebt. Schallbrücken in dieser Größenordnung durch die Tackernadeln , gehen in einem Mehrfamilienhaus never ever.lol.
EvntlLPer .
Voralm hat er den Randstreifen mit den laser angebracht und mus ihn den noch kürzen omg
und zu guter letzt liegt das aks gitter viel zutief, das gehört ins obere drittel.
Ich habe mich köstlich amüsiert wie dieser Unwissender sich abgequält hat. Echt lustig. Der hat fast alles falsch gemacht was man wirklich falsch machen kann.
Bravo. Amazing worker...
That's just wet mixed concrete, just like for foundation, takes about 1 week dry before ready to lay tiles. Nothing wrong with the way he did it.
However I prefer half dry concrete mix to make bathrooms
Отличный инструмент, мастер с руками из плеч, НО...
Армирование для видимости, арматуру надо было в центр толщины стяжки, ибо не работает иначе.
а вот и нет, все правильно, под стяжкой не прочное основание и нижнее армирование работает на растяжение. На такой площади стяжку не порвет, если смесь правильная конечно
@@McKarabas Я бы с вами согласился при условии что арматура была в стяжке, а так... стяжка лежит на арматуре...
Проверено временем, СНиП...
Опираюсь на многолетний опыт.
И сколько вы за много лет армированных стяжек демонтировали? )) Раствор неизбежно под сетку затечет, ее зачастую вообще наверх поднимает если не закрепить. Вы не путайте те обстоятельства, когда сетка закладывается для распределения напряжений в самой стяжке, здесь задача другая, распределить нагрузку которая передается сверху.
@@McKarabas Я с 1989г на стройке, начинал с рабочего, 11 лет руковожу ст.комп....вы думаете я считал сколько?)))
При условии, что основание не жесткое, требуется сформировать плиту, а не жесткий подстилающий слой для распределения нагрузки. В данном случае распределение нагрузки возложено на тепло (вибро) -изоляционный слой, а при наличии таких слоев требуется формировании жесткого основания (не путать с подстилающим слоем), с армированием в нижнем слое на растяжение т.к. остается вероятность прогиба, при чем не зависимо на каком основании формируется "пирог"...
Поднимет арматуру или нет...вот, для чего нужно играть в эту лотерею, когда можно установить уровень залегания? Зачастую поднимает арм. при вибрировании и то не равномерно, а тут...где-то поднимет, где-то нет...по этому я и констатировал, что армирование для галочки и расхода бюджета...
Всё работает, армирование в низу так как держит всю стяжку которая сверху. Тем более что пару сантиметров в местах под стяжку цемент заходит.
Good job man👌👍
Kkkkk very good!
Prakticna zena
nice trick with the laser level, using those pieces of wood like that to slide it up and down. I'm stealing that idea =D
Wow nice Jobb there, to bad the client didnt want heating to the floor.
No mask mixing
między siatką a folią jakiś dystans by przydał...
Wg. Polskiej Normy min. 1 cm. A jeżeli nie ma w ogóle otuliny, to siatka jest zbędnym wydatkiem.
To prawda. Ale na takie małe pomieszczenie to przejdzie.
A czy na drewniany strop nie powinna zostać wylana wylewka elastyczna z włókna . Przecież to popęka z czasem .
Ja osobiście robię inaczej
@@tomaszjan5236 przecież jest styropian.
się.
Quedo genial. Consulta, porque colocaron peliestireno sobre las placas de m arderá y bajo el mortero? Saludos.
Para nivelar pisos, aligerar la losa, acústica, pero sobre todo por aislamiento térmico. Deben ser en países donde el frío es intenso.
странная штука, похоже на цпс, но очень жидкое. Сетка на дне лежит(смыла от неё нет). А вот маяки прикольно сделано для маленькой площади) Ну и лишняя работа обрезания демпфера и клеёнки сразу. Проще потом по высохшей стяжке обрезать)
Don't know, thought I saw crack ;)
instead of cement boards there is a drywall on the sides Fill it up with concrete , and metal mesh on penliner witn no gap between .. no way..
You are right
You forgot to mention him shooting the liner full of holes with his staple gun, all around the edges where any water will leak down first. And what about the fact that there was no waste water outlet? And no fall on the floor, so even the slightest spillage of water will pool and a bigger one will flow out into the adjacent room?
I like the clipping sound of the tacker 👌😄... and next time use a mouth guard mask ;-)
At 2:36 there are 2 pencil lines on the wall in the background- the highest is finished floor, which would include floor tiles. He's probably working to the lower, bolder line.
I don't get the title?!
I'm from Poland and i have problem too
Nor me.....
5 inches of mud over suspended plywood for no reason.
i am turkish even i couldnt get it
The title is Hungarian but this worker is not sure :)
watched 5 minutes trying to figure out what the title means until i realized its auto translated to Hungaryan
even googled it up... well... I'm dumb....
Great job, You forget a heating pipe/wire in floor ;)
like the knee skateboard, no wonder he can work this fast.
Ein leicht feuchter Zementestrich z.B. mit Schnellbinder hätte bessere Dienste geleistet. So ein gematsche kann man sich ja nicht ansehen. Naja, trotzdem das Ergebnis zählt.
Klötze aus klötze oder was?
@Thor The Northern Deutsches Video, deutsche Kommentare. So ist das Leben... ;-)
Internetidiom is spanish
P
@@Neuss1979 yo
Why raise the floor? He has just created a step up into the bathroom!
Why the insulation? it's not needed on a wooden floor!
If you have to insulate and screed the floor why not install underfloor heating
Rather a pointless vid
I'm guessing it's going to be a wet room and there wasn't any room for the drains if the floor wasn't raised??
The whole house is renovated, so all floors will be insulated....
Floor heating in a bathroom isn't necessary, you don't need a permanent heating system, but a fast warm up when you use it.
And why insulation? because insulation regulation requires it for eco labels and also if watching other vids, it's an old farm renovated, the floor isn't on crawlspace but directly on ground, which adds thermo leaks.
They do not do construction the easy way in Germany, and they don't wear gloves or dust masks either because this would make workers too comfortable.
all the rest of the floors will be done, is my guess
Didn't you see the pipes he was trying to cover up that ran on top of the wooden floor. That's why he raised it.
Maybe better fill up with concrete first and then make final leveling with the self-leveling compound? Thanks for some ideas!
That was rough. Hope it all worked out.