Installing Powerstop Extreme Brakes onto a 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner
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- Опубликовано: 6 апр 2018
- Torque specs: Brake caliper mounting bolts: 74 lb-ft (17mm), Brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm). www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen...
In this episode, we are installing Powerstop Extreme brakes onto a 5th gen Toyota 4Runner. The brakes are a carbon fiber ceramic formula which offers the ultimate breaking performance for trucks and 4x4. The drilled and slotted rotors improve performance and maximize cooling whereas the zinc plating helps prevent against to rust.
Power Stop Front and Rear Brake Kit: amzn.to/2JZTG7R
The installation for this kit is quite similar to doing a standard brake job. However, it is slightly more difficult because we have to remove the calipers so that we can replace the rotors.
Trail4r Install Instructions: trail4runner.com/2018/03/26/r...
Total Time: 2 hours
Tools Required: floor jack, jack stands, 12 and 17 mm sockets, socket wrench, breaker bar, needle-nose pliers, screwdriver, C-clamp or channel locks, and rubber hammer or mallet.
Remember to release the E-brake when pulling off the rear rotors
*Disclaimer: Brakes are extremely important in vehicle safety and if done improperly could result in serious harm. I would highly suggest taking your vehicle in to get its brakes done if you do not feel comfortable working on your own vehicle.
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Don't forget to clean/lube the slide pins and their bores on those rear calipers. Dow High Vacuum Grease is great in that application. Lubing all points that move besides the caliper pistons bears mentioning too.
Put Power Stop Z36 Truck & Tow Brake Kit (pads & rotors) front and rear on my 4Runner a year ago (14 months to be exact) and just recently both front rotors are now warped. The brake shimmy seemed to start following a panic stop a week or so ago at ~70mph to avoid a deer, something that happens a LOT around here. Before that I had no issues with the Power Stops but now both front rotors now have a runout of 0.12mm or almost twice the listed factory max. Both rear are still fine at 0.01mm.
Sooo I just got back from the dealer today after shelling out $350 for OEM front pads and rotors to replace them with. They cost more than these by a bit but the last factory ones lasted 8 years and dozens of times slamming on the brakes just like what apparently cooked my power stops and life's too short to be putting new pads and rotors on every year.
So appreciate this. There’s nothing really wrong with the oem brakes
Damn-I’m having delivered tomorrow $500 worth of power stop parts for front and back-mostly to deal with warped rotors…steering wheel is shaking like CRAZY.
excellent....just blimey excellent. Thank you for making a perfectly detailed, not long winded, not full of umms etc vid. One of the BEST vids out here!!!!!
I appreciate that, thanks for taking the time to comment.
Clear, concise and to the point. Thank you!
Quickest brake job that I've ever done. Thanks dude 😎👍
Glad it worked out so well!
Torque specs: Brake caliper mounting bolts: 74 lb-ft (17mm), Brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm). www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/215622-diy-maintenance-quick-reference.html
Thanks for that, I am going to add this to the descriptions!!!
Nicely done. I was looking for a shortcut to swapping the rear pads. Found it!
Re: removing the rear drums: if releasing the parking brake still doesn't release the rotor, you may have to back off the shoes. To do that, the hole in the rotor needs to be at the 6:00 position to line up with the adjuster.. Be careful when doing this, because if you at this point step on the brake to shift into neutral, you'll shoot the piston right out of the caliper. Ask me how I know.
Another excellent, informative and well narrated video...
Thanks for sharing..
I used the same brand on my FJ last year with the idea of pulling my off road trailer...so far so good.
Thanks, and thanks for the support
How are they holding up for you?
Many moons ago I turned wrenches for a living. I have never recommended new fangled slotted or drilled rotors. Just buy quality American rotors vs cheap Chinese rotors that often need to be turned straight out of the box. Or at very least buy the Canadian rotors. Believeme,, there is a difference. For most domestic vehicles,, there are good aftermarket pads and shoes readily available, but for Toyota, and many other foreign vehicles,, there is nothing better than OEM. When I did/do a brake job, I drive to an area of low traffic, be it a secluded neighborhood or an industrial cul-de-sac where i could easily do what I neeed to do. I get the vehicle to at least 35 and apply even pressure on the brakes until the vehicle eventually stops. I repeat this 10 times. By the time the customer picks up the vehicle the brakes are nearly seated in. I always remind them to take it easy on the brakes for the first couple hundred miles to let the brakes completely seat in, though.
THAT is what I would do if I get one--- POWERSTOP Upgrade!!!! GREAT JOB...
Excellent! Thank you!
Awesome, thanks a lot
Looks like for the front there are 17mm and 19mm versions for the caliper bolts. The 19mm are 137 ft/lb and 17mm are 91 ft/lb torque.
Thanks for the video, I just ordered this kit for my 2016 4runnner. Your ebrake issue would have stumped me, I'm going to have to remember to check for that.
Glad I could help
the easy way , when u make video , try to shoot video while working on the second wheel , you will learn many thing by replacing pads or rotors on first wheel this will help you to make video while doing on the second wheel any way it was great
thanks for sharing
Did you ever use the star wheel located at 6 o'clock position to compress the break shoe so that together with combination of screw and park braking shoe adjuster(star)wheel) rotor will be easy to remove.I live in Ontario and rust had built up circumferentially and its getting its way removing the rotor.Let me know. Thanks.
Its been about 5 months now, how are they holding up? Any issues like the guy who commented he was on his 3rd set? Thanks
Would you recommend the power stop breaks after a year?
Installed those set on my 3rd gen 4runner with the tundra brakes and they did not last at all. The rotors warped eventually so I replaced them without slots and holes which is much better.
That's great insight, thanks for sharing. We haven't had a problem with them yet, but if we do I'll share it.
I replaced my stock rotors and brakes with these about 8 months ago. I've noticed better braking especially pulling a trailer, I have no rusting on the the rotors and less brake dust. If you check around you can purchase them at a reasonable price.
Thanks for letting everyone know, and I'm glad you're enjoying them.
Same here for my FJ. Towing a M416 and wanted something to help out with that...
How are you liking them still?
@@VanillaGorilla502 I needed to replace the rears because a caliper froze, warped the rotor. I was disappointed you can't have these cut. Also the inside of the rotors were rusted so bad it closed the holes on the outside braking surface. After having them on my suv for several years I would not buy them again.
@@kcp71 Dang, I appreciate the feedback. I’ve had them on two vehicles previously, but only got a year of less before I had traded them off. Looks like I’ll be sticking to OEM for the 4Runner.
I saw the anti squeal shims on the rear brakes. Are these required for the front, and rear, brakes? Are there 2 shims per brake assembly (one on each separate pad)?
Thank you in advance!
Great install video. I’m thinking about getting new rotors soon not sure if I want slotted / drilled. I’ve seen some crack several years ago but materials and technology changes I’m curious to see how the work they are a Great brand.
Yeah, I think if it was my rig I wouldn't have done drilled. But we are going to keep an eye on them. We'll let everyone know if we have an issue.
SnailTrail4x4 right on. I doubt you will see an issue. Great stuff buddy love that jack. I want one.
not an east coast 4runner that's for sure.
I just installed F/R Powerstop pads and rotors tonight. The KOE5874 kit, cheaper one. The pads came in Powerstop boxes but the rotors where in unbranded white boxes.
Mine came with all OEM style hardware, not cotter pins but that makes zero difference. Mine did however have new front guide pins in the kit.
Nice job owning up to the E-brake snafu......It will definitely help someone out.
Great stuff! I have done many break jobs and i have ran into some break pads that just wont stop squealing and had to go to a different material. Do these have any squeals or just the normal squeaks from dust and dirt kind of stuff?
Nothing out of the ordinary
And why do this?
What is the difference in performance and durability?
Are the stock brakes defective somehow?
Great informative video do you actual numbers of how long it takes you to stop with the new breaks setup. I need new pads and breaks and dealee charged way to much for oem. $620 for front and rear pads and discs on my 2015 limited.
Sorry, I don't have any statistics on them, but they have been working great ever since we put them on. I have heard positive and negatives on them. lots of mixed feeling in the comments. but that said, we haven't had a problem.
Thank you for the video.May I ask the name brand of rotors and name brand pads.Thank you so much.I appreciate it.Again thank you so much.
Powerstop Xtreme
Hi, that’s really nice video. Just wanted to give an input on the rotors. I used it on my 4th gen 4runner. It works fantastic!!! No rust at all. BUT after 6 months I got vibrations (left and right) when I push the brake from 70 miles and by the 8th month, it’s got worse. So I ordered another one to see if it’s really that bad. The second set was exactly the same. After 5 months, I tested to reservice mechanics to see how bad was the rotor. And it’s pretty dented. So that’s my experience with the power stop. Now I have the 3rd set and been running for the 5th months.
Thanks for your insight. So far things are going well, but maybe I'll have to give an update at five months.
Why would you go for a third set?
My rear brakes had these small clips on one of those pad tabs and the new pads came with them too. As I watched you install the pads I didn’t see you add the new clips to them. Are they not needed?
I'm not exactly sure what your talking about... but, If they were there in your breaks already I would replace them, breaks are not something you want to be reducing parts on.
Thanks, but why didn’t you bleed the brake fluid? I know some people don’t bleed the fluid but you don’t want contamination from the pistons go back up the reservoir.
Thanks. When you remove the C clamp from the calipers will they stay compressed? I guess until you step on the brakes for the first time?
Yes, exactly.
Why no commentary about performance once installed?
*Subscribed*
New 4R owner here (5th GEN) looking to upgrade brakes eventually. How are these holding up?
They been been great!
Would you recommend this if you have steels bumpers front and rear plus roof rack and tent....?
Yeah, why not?
I'm gonna take Scottys advice those are great for the track etc but it's not needed for SUVs you risk getting offroad gunk into the grooves and holes
Real question. What kinda jack is that where do I find one and how much?
It's a Pro-Eagle 3 ton Floor Jack. It's a great Jack but it's not cheap.
Part # for the kit?
Quick question after installing those new breaks and rotors are you suppose to bleed all the lines to make sure that their is no air bubbles in the breaking system??? I'm just wondering and really curious about that being part of the whole process when it's all said and done??? The reason i ask that is because I took my 2012 TOYOTA 4RUNNER to the dealership for a complete brake job front and back, and they still feel spongy and go more than half way down when you step on the break pedal??? If so would I be able to bleed the lines myself or would i have to take it back to the dealership for that to be done??? They charge $150.00 just to bleed the whole system!!! Your help and advice would really be appreciated!!! Thanks!!! Great video!!! 👍👍👍
Jose, Sorry this comment was moved into my spam folder, I am not sure why.
To answer your question we didn't need to bleed the system because we didn't open it up. removing the brake calipers and pads does not involve opening the brake line, so the system is still charged. If your breaks are spongy then there is really only one reason, there is air in the line. To remove the air from the line you will have to bleed the breaks.
You can bleed the breaks yourself it's not very difficult. Here is a video on that: ruclips.net/video/lPwM2vn3bT0/видео.html
Jose Garcia no
Question regarding the rear drum brake/pad, are these being utilized in normal braking system or only when using the emergency brake? Need to replace my rear disc pads/rotors so curious what i'm in for once I pull the rotor off and if the drums will need to be replaced as well. Currently sitting at 60k miles.
The rear drum breaks on these 4runmers are only for an E-Brake. I'd take a look at them to see if the pads need to be replaced, but I don't think they will need to be
SnailTrail4x4 excellent, thanks for the quick reply
I’ve just done a 6112 front lift with a diff drop and around 1000 miles later I’m getting a loud front end clunk when going over bumps and I’m not sure what it is. Any thoughts?
Bushings?
which reference has those brakes, pads, and discs, in the market?? serial number?? looking for a 4runner 2020...thanx
trail4runner.com/2018/03/24/powerstop-extreme-4runner-brakes/
If changing out pads and rotors do you have to replace the rubber part on the caliper?
Are you referring to the rubber part around the caliper piston? No, is the answer to that. The pads and rotors wear out, the rubber section there don't.
@@SnailTrail4x4 gracias
Will these breaks be OK for off roading.. I drive mostly on pavement but I do go on trips.
Yeah absolutely
Did you open up the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the calipers? Something you may want to mention.
I don't think I did. Is that something that I should be doing? Isn't it a closed system so if I push back it shouldn't overflow.
SnailTrail4x4 ah ok. Any time I’ve done my brakes they’ve been on regular sedans like a Toyota Avalon and a BMW 3 series. Maybe it’s different on the 4Runner. Thanks!
@@e36325is -- Yeah, I'll look into this I haven't heard that I should do it one way or another. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
SnailTrail4x4 cool. Let us know. I know when I’d open the reservoir cap, after compressing the calipers, I’d see the brake fluid level rise. Maybe you’ll find something we don’t know. Thanks again!
@@e36325is whenever I do all 4 sets especially if they're really worn, I not only take off the cap, but I pull out 30 cc or so. The reason, is that if the reseviour is topped off, and you push the calipers in to accommodate the new pads, you will force enough fluid back, to overflow the reseviour, will means you have nasty brake fluid every where.
What was your Impression of before and after was it worth it? does it get rid of the odd press the brakes squishy pedal then the dreaded nose dive stop...the brakes on 5th gen are not linear at all...
jeff g the nose dive is cause by you stock suspension, not the breaks.
From Trail4r: Hard to tell right now after only a few weeks, but I do noticed superior braking. What I mean by that is the pressure needed on the actual pedal is less than it was before. The sensitivity is greater than stock brakes. I have not put them through any rigorous testing but from what I feel, the seem to be working as advertised.
Could also be an issue with proportioning valve. Your rears may not be doing enough braking, or potentially, any braking at all.
Does this swap out eliminate the lag or mushiness in the factory brakes? I have a 2016 and absolutely hate the brakes in my 5th Gen.
This kit is a performance brake kit. But most of the time I find machinist comes from needing to bleed your brake system more
When I bought my 2020 4 runner the first thing I noticed was the horrible brakes for the weight of the vehicle. I’m looking to do an upgrade as this will be the first brake job since I bought the rig.
How much time did it take for all 4 breaks ?
It took us about 1-2 hrs
Perhaps advise people to clean off the oil on the rotors from the packaging with some brake cleaner, then when the rotors and calipers are installed give everything another spray down just to ensure cleanliness and proper functioning. You can't use too much brake clean when doing a brake job.
Yes that's true, that's a great suggestion
Should I install ventilated rotors a 4x4
That is always the argument. I don't think it matters where we live. But if you're somewhere that is went and freezes I would avoid it. Slotted would be find
I thought drilled was no go for off road ?
Eye pro!!
What do you mean?
hahaha...eye protection My Man. You weren't wearing any. I do all my maintenance through RUclips and I nag about eye pro and gloves to the kids I mentor when working. When they see you not wearing protection, I have to explain it. Love your work man. Happy New Year!!! @@SnailTrail4x4
Copy that. Thanks for your concern. I just got some new gloves for Christmas so I'll be wearing those a lot more. I'll work on eye pro as well!!!
How you liking them??
Yeah, they are great, still using them today
SnailTrail4x4 awesome. I’ve only heard a few people not satisfied with them. My brakes are due and just trying to decide on a route to go. I have a steel bumper, full time RTT and a bunch of hauling.
You missed replacing the e brake and how improvement the e brake cause those stock shoes and emergency brakes SUCK BAD
Might help to use year model instead of Gen because nobody uses Gen to identify their vehicle
But this works for all models
I use 5th gen instead of year and model all the time...and so do many others! Are you new to owning a "5th gen" 4runner?
I'm surprised I'm the first one who asked, "why did you use slotted/cross drilled rotors?". Lol
Ian, the vast majority of the braking done is on the road. But when we do go off-roading we will have to make sure we clean the brakes well. What experience do you have with slotted/drilled rotors?
SnailTrail4x4 well, I have heard stories (on the forum) that those breaks can develop cracks. Also, solid surface rotors are recommended while towing.
I'm not saying that I don't recommend those breaks, but for what we do to these trucks, I would keep them solid.
Powerstop is not reality good
After 20.000 miles they started to fail on my 4Runner
Can’t brake on highway without steering wheel and brake pedal shaking really bad
Replacing them with OEM back along with new pads
You're the second person to tell us that. We are watching out milage to see where we have a problem. Thanks for letting everyone know.
SnailTrail4x4
No problem
Thank you for your videos and bringing car lovers together
You need to use ADVICS brake pads and rotors. They are OEM
The ADVICS products last longer
JAVIER GARAY
Never heard of them
Thanks for advice
Will look into it!
@@javiergaray7441 -- I've never heard of them either, I'll have to look them up.
I have the same 4runner (2015).
I changed all four brake pads, not rotors,were still good.
You did not show on the video.
1. Cleaning the calipers and sorrounding area.
2. Did not lubricate area were pads ride.
3. Did not put antiseuze on back of pads.
4. Did not clean area where rotor sits nor addded antiseuze.
A piss poor job.
It's your vehicle you can do whatever you want.
I do not recommend following this guy in his procedure.
I appreciate your advice and sharing your additional steps. Where I live in California it's very dry and we don't have to worry about corrosion or rust. I often don't use anti-seize as I've never had an issue getting something undone that I've installed. That said it wouldn't be a bad idea if you're in an area that's wet and salty to use it. For what it's worth we did put the anti-squeek lub on the back of the pads, but probably didn't show it.
no lube on anything??? hack
No mention of brake clean either.
You guys don't know what you're doing if you had the e brake on..................
Haha, I didn't know he set the E-Brake when he parked. Simple issue to overcome.
Lol the cringe