I can. Its amazing how companies seem to constantly miss what consumers care about. They cut costs on wanted things and keep stuff that arent important. Look at elegoo. Saturn 4 ultra.. tilting bed.. no heater or port for one etc.
I have been researching my first 3-D printer. Without having printed before the choices were confusing and overwhelming. Finally, last night I found your channel and went through many of your videos and settled on this printer. every printer within my budget seem to have inevitably strong points and weak points and one has to weigh them against each other. I know now I’ve made a good choice as a beginner. Thank you for your honest reviews. They are clear and easy to understand and I love the comparisons and that you do not pander to different manufacturers.
I have a small side hustle where I help a local DnD Studio with their prints. We have an M5s. We call it the Fast Printer. Not the Best Printer, or the Good Printer, just the Fast Printer. Currently I'm printing 160 various models for a collab, and the minis get printed on the Mono X, Mono X 6k, and 2 DLP's. The bases get printed on the Fast Printer. Bigger pieces / terrain as well. This printer looks like a nice middle of the road option between features and affordability. But it definitely needs rubber feet.
Hey Ross, loving the fact you are a miniatures orientated reviewer, have you thought about doing some terrain on the larger format printers? I haven't seen anyone really look at them for that. With SLA allowing hollow prints and less support material than FDM and the price of 1l of resin being near 1kg of good PLA+ the cost is almost comparable. Would love to see a video with different resins, drop tests etc.. like you did with the miniatures!
I bought an M5s. To get around the heater issue I just run the build plate under hot tap water until the plate is hot. Wipe the thing dry, reinstall and print. NO failed prints since I started doing this.
Hi Ross. Thanks for another great video. I'm new to your channel, but since I have been watching you, you have been the most informative reviewer on resin printers around. And may I say, the most fair reviewer of 3D printers I've heard. I'm currently a Bambu Labs X1C owner for a year now. I've been printing prototypes for my clients when it's needed. But not new to FDM printing, as I had a printer for many years (10yrs now). Your videos are helping me make a better informed decision for a resin printer (eventually). Keep up the great work.
So just found your video review. I absolutely love this printer. It’s simple, works, and does heck of fast prints. I have both the nfep and acf vats and I swap between the two. I started to 3d print a model rollercoaster that works. The track is printed with fast print resin and the train is printed with 8k resin. I ended up having a dead projector that I stole the rubber feet off and it is perfect for keeping the printer steady. Now for one update that you will like, I never print with usb. I print from my computer directly to the printer via the photon workshop slicer. All WiFi no usb or cords. The only reason I use my phone app was for set up or to check my prints. Actually I traveled from my home and finished a model on my trip, connected to WiFi at the hotel and printed my model. When I got home my print was finished and didn’t have any issues.
While some of this stuff goes over my head, that RERF feature sounds incredible! I usually print AmeraLabs Towns for calibration, and having to wait over an hour just to see that I have to run another print 0.2 seconds less or more can be aggravating when switching to a new resin. Having a range of calibrations done simultaneously sounds like a dream.
The rerf is a great idea that has always had me interested in their printers, I just didn't like chitu or lychee, and I never thought they were meant to produce accurate parts.
I don't mind Lychee, but Chitu feels really weird. I wish there was a pay-once option though instead of a subscription for the full service. I don't 3D print often enough to make the subscription feel worth it.
Not sure what's the issues you're having with the wifi, but it works well on my M5s, and I can send prints from the Photon Workshop on my desktop directly to the printer, the app I use just for monitoring. Basically, both the printer and desktop are connectred to the same network, and the printer shows up in my slicer to send prints to no issues. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding your point, but it definitely works with my PC.
i have never gotten it to work directly to my computer. I don't use the smartphone app with the printer which as far as I can tell you need to use to set it up.
Another commenter here wrote that files sent from the slicer are sent via the cloud which then needs to be cleaned out occasionally. Can you confirm that it's possible to bypass using cloud?
@@markburton5292 It does need the app for the setup, yes. It doesn't go "directly" to the printer from the computer, but you don't need to send it to the app and then the printer manually. You just click remote print in your slicer, it gets uploaded to the app and the printer, and the print starts, no manual steps past clicking remote print.
@@DanJ-yt7cb The files go through the app, which highly likely is hosted on some cloud provider, so don't think you can bypass that. The "cleaning" part is your print history in the app I guess, same as you'd need to clean the memory of your printer.
@@rumenmatanov303 here is my problem with that. I don't want to be required to install the app on my phone to set it up. I hate smart phones I don't want the world accessing my life from my phone. so i will just keep using the sneakernet ( put it on you r sneakers (shoes) save the sliced file to usb and walk over to the printer and print from the usb)
I actually want to thank you for your work and efforts. Last month i got the m5s and was very disappointed with its quality. It didnt work at all after 20 failed prints and half a bottle of resin. Before these fails,Out of the box it came with a screen fault error where the screen needed to be "calibrated " so leveled. I returned it and git the mini 8ks big difference.
Ross, i send prints from my desktop to my M5s literally daily. You have to be connected to the AC cloud in the slicer. You dont even need the most recent version of their slicer, ive been on 3.14 for a while bc new versions dont launch for some reason
If it works through any cloud only I'm not interested. Give us local control! I guess one of the many issues is not having a standard that companies can agree upon to get things going.
same, it works fine for me too. 2GB free space, its plenty. i wish there was an auto tidy so it would auto delete from the printer itself afterwards, but thats just a maintenance task i do every few weeks
I bought this yesterday as my 5th resin-printer. I have so much joy with my two M3+ and needed a printer for more details (small miniatures) with other selfmade Resin-blends. I really needed a heater and I paided 80€ per piece for my 2xM3+ and can't print with my Photon Ultra because of the temp. So I preordered one with 2x1kg for 452€ with a coupon... Means after subtracting the costs for Resin/heater I payed 332€ for a printer that will last me at least 3 years... When it prints like the M3's, than I'm absolutely happy and I can swap the heater to my Photon Ultra if needed :)
I just bought one of these after watching your video, it's like $130 is buck cheaper during it's pre release and comes with 2kg of resin. So let's hope I made a good decision. BTW Ross, I did use your link.
3:20 It has rubber feet now for extra stability, and it cost me €330. Just got my first resin printer! Super excited to dive into the world of 3D resin printing
where would this place in your best printers for miniatures considering you stated is better than prior M5 and M5s and the one you would personally buy in that price range?
no ready standard slicing software at the moment like chitubox or lychee, just use anycubic workshop that is really insuficient and not good. specially with the matter of supports , bases etc..and much more options of the software that do not works properly. @@BrickBazooka
I have an M3 premium, it's fantastic but I'm a bit gutted that it's been dropped... With consumable parts like screens becoming hard to source I'm not sure whether to just keep it until the screen dies and then change it or try to buy one or two spare screens ahead of time - I did find one source for the screens but not sure how long they'll be available. Don't think I'll be buying anycubic again just for the bad taste of how they handled the m3 premium. I don't really understand why they need to saturate the market with so many different printer models, they could cut their offerings in half and still have all bases (cheap, expensive, small and medium sizes) covered.
I have to correct you about the wifi stuff, I have an M5 and you can send prints to it from your PC, but they HAVE TO be sent from their slicer, things like Lychee dont work that way. there is a storage limitation as well, as it sends to anycubic cloud and then from cloud to printer (which is a big question of "why? just send it to printer direct"
I've been sending all of my prints from my PC to the printer via wifi through the Anycubic slicer. Works great. You just have to occasionally clean out the cloud storage.
This was interesting to learn. I was under the impression that pressing "Remote Print" sent it directly to the printer, and that "Save to cloud" was for cloud printing. Hmm, now I'm back to thinking of Saturn Ultra again!
@DanJ-yt7cb I think saving to the cloud makes it easier to manage/delete files from the PC/slicer (I also deleted unneeded files using the phone app) rather than having to do it from the interface on the printer, but just a guess.
When I first saw the advertising for this printer I was hopeful that it might be a worthy replacement for my farm of Saturn 3’s. But it doesn’t sound like it is.
Hold up homie, you can Wi-Fi send prints directly from your PC through the anycubic slicer directly to the M5. How did you miss that? I have been printing since Christmas and I've used the USB port exactly once. So the biggest real issue is still the plastic feet.
I'm here because I'm looking for my first resin 3D printer. I'd like to know what resin 3D printers would be better than this one, considering that you consider this to be a cheapo 3D printer... As in, What printer should I buy if I want this kind of size and features, but without the nasty cheap mistakes that you've pointed out in this video
I'm kind of curious what kind of software update is going to be altering the physical nature of their lightsource. The only thing I can imagine would be using a mask that is added to whatever image is being printed to darken areas of the screen that are too hot, but that would be very machine-specific.
Isnt the RERF thing or something just like it also in UVTools? Not sure why I'm watching this you convinced me to go with the GKTwo so I ordered that on Sunday 😁
there is indeed an RERF type thing in UV tools, its a knob to use though, this is just so simple - any 8 models, make sure they dont touch (ive had all kinds of things in here), name it R_E_R_F and off you go
I brought this printer just half an hour ago after I watched vogman's videos on it, now you have me doubting, I mean coming from a Saturn S I guess I'll see a huge improvement
@@FauxHammer I ended up cancelling the order, the COB+fresnel lense thing new printers have seem to make all the difference, plus the new Saturn 4s will have PFA rather than ACF films so that really tilted the scales for me, I'll be waiting for the refund and get me a Saturn 4
@@3lcost3 AH ok, Yeah all sensible reasons. Sorry, I was worried you'd seen this as a negative review and balked. I do get grumpy when people see my work as negative or positive, I try my hardest to stay on the fence and just show what these machines do.
Hey Ross, just wanted to let you know that I bought a Saturn 3 Ultra based on your videos as well as other reviewers and it's been printing for me non-stop for a day now! Having a ton more fun with the newer printer. Thanks a ton for what you do it has certainly educated me before my purchase. My last printer was the Anycubic Photon S and the only things that came out well in that were larger models or models without a lot of detail, but this printer is giving high levels of detail out of the box. Also, I did buy the Chitu Systems heater you said you were considering reviewing in an earlier video. I think you should consider reviewing it. My own experience with it is that the heater works quite well and has given me consistent temperatures, was easy to set up, but there are a few caveats: The magnetic plate it comes with is quite huge, and the trim guard it comes with needs to be adhered to the lid which can leave a mess. I ended up not using the trim guard and instead opted to Dremel a notch in the lid of my printer which works quite nicely and was less work than trying to put the trim on, as well as not leaving a mess of adhesive on my lid I need to clean up at some point.
My m5s has been a disappointment and after lots of tweaking and a new build plate on warranty from Anycubic it still doesn’t print as good as a Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra I bought after getting fed up with the m5s. The Ultra has run for a couple of weeks and not yet a failed print.
Must say though it doesn't need a heater! Used the m5s all winter with no issues on the UV heating up the resin still hate the printer it does print nice now new Build plate is relised and being sent to people like the saturn 3 ultra so you have some manual levelling as the build plates were angled and 2mm to short! I printed a new spacer from printables for mine it worked great and anycubic then worked with me put the new update on the printer and has new Build plate! What build plate comes with it version 1 or version 2 with the 4 hex bolts?
I wouldn't ever buy an Anycubic again. The last one I bought their cost cutting measures was to not include any fans on it. So it overheated on every print. I had to take it apart to find out what was wrong. A daunting task for someone who has never taken apart a 3d printer before.
on my mono 6k, I glued and screwed a flexible heated seed mat to the inside of the cover, I can't see my prints but I stopped getting print fails. Also in colder months I put a blankie on it...
Just got my M5S Pro (Thanks for this awesome review.!). How can you tell the difference between the 8 squares on the RERF test? Are they marked exposure times on each one of the squares?
compared to the Saturn 3 Ultra the M5s pro only gives me 200 mm print height. 60mm less as S3U and only 30mm more as the M3pro. Enough sensors which can brake or gives a fake error. I was struggling with my self which one will print on my side. I decided for S3 Ultra for 469€. I'm more than confident with the point that i level my bed manually. Having a higher print height and a z ballscrew as well. The heater on M5s pro is not necessary in my case, im printing in a heated basement. For sure there more fancy extras on M5SP but do I really need it. 12K vs 14K? different number same optic. I like the design, screen protection and the lower price from the M5SP. At the end the Saturn is my friend for the next time which I ordered finally.
I cant preorder it, I need to see what Elegoo has to offer later this year. Hopefully less noisy with almost the same features like this one. I like Anycubic, but I dont want a cheap machine. I still hope there'll be a mid size DLP Printer out there soon 🙏
Considering the "logic" behind their other products (Wash&Cure Pro for example), it would be more shocking if Anycubic would make logical decissions. :)
Thank for great review! I use phone app to print something I find interesting. Next day I give my prints to someone in the office or to my kids. My m5s is a toy for me. :)
hey, Thanks for the great review! I'm still new to 3D printing and have been considering for some time whether (and which) resin printer I should buy. I've been wavering between the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12K and the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s Pro and I can't make up my mind. The most important issue is the odour. We are an office with a shop and I want to install the printer one floor down by the window (just a staircase, there's no door or anything). Which one can I use better without being unable to work on the PC? So how well do the air filters work? You can also connect a larger extraction station to the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12K if the two small filters are not sufficient. Is this also possible with the Anycubic? Or is it necessary? Could I use the two USB air filters on the Elegoo, for example, and also use the heating unit from the Anycubic? I assume that this can also be purchased separately? The more I learn, the more undecided I become...
My m5s after 2 months of working with anycubic getting the new V2 build plate as the original self levelling in production model's are 2mm to short now the V2 is more like the saturn 3 ultras they are sending out but mine is back in its box and for will be going up on market soon! I went and got the saturn 3 ultra I just should have gone with my gut in the first place but the self levelling idea got the better of me! It works great now it's got the new V2 build plate but it's so loud you can not keep it in the same room your in like a bedroom you can't run it through the night the fans are like jet engines kicking in and can't hear your TV! That's one very bad point when I first pressed print I couldn't believe the sound of the fans! I was going to see if a saturn 2 8k fan would fit as so quiet! My saturn 3 ultra is louder than my saturn 2 but nothing like the m5s!
Same for me...Uniformation meant, maybe 1 to 2 mths until they may can deliver. And now more and more I read about broken Plasticparts from the Lid and VAT... Worn-out Screws on the Building Platform, damaged Screens after few Prints..., I canceled my Order, not interested in the GK anymore.
I got my M5S Pro last week, and I've not gotten a single successful print out of it so far. It's been bloody awful - I don't know if I just have a dodgy unit or something, but no matter the resin I've tried, or the speed I've adjusted to, I get a huge elephant's foot, peeling layers and splits higher up the print. Just generally bad, compared to my Halot One which has been reliable for over a year with the same resin.
My 2 cents , I don't care about print quality I make functional parts , I like the heater , I like the size every millimter gives me more options , I like the low weight it reduces my (Guatamala) very high shipping cost , a noisy fan is a real negative for me, I can add rubber feet and some weight my self. I like the low cost but would pay more for a quiet machine.
btw it is possible to do RERF like prints with UVT tools, it's a bit complicated to set up but it works on any printer with per layer settings like all elegoos, lmk if you want to know more
i may cover it, it;s a lot of work and the result will be - that could have been an email. Most Water Washables are crap and even the good ones I'll wash in Metheylated Spirit to ensure it;s clean, Water Washable also absorbs water which can cause prints to soften, go brittle, or crack,. even air moisture after the print can be a pin
Ah, figured the water washable resins had been improved over the years, seems like not then. Watched Midwinter's video and it seemed most of the fumes and vocs came from the Ipa cleaning, so would be interesting if that could be avoided with better water washable resins.@@FauxHammer
Youc an do it, and Water Washable resins are better, some anwyay, but they have caveats. Wash for a few minutes at a time and don;t leave them sat in water and you'll be fine. I;m so distracted that i often leave prints in the wash vat and Methys are much less harmful @@zior92
Hey Ross, does this printer comes with a glass plate to protect the screen? Or we have to use a protective plastic sheet? I hate those things. I always get bubbles underneath them, especially for the old Mono M5S. Which NON-DLP printers come with a protective glass Plate?
Don't!!!! Don't do it!!! Buy any other printer, except for any Anycubic printer!!! It will work for the first 5-6 months, and the either the limit switch or LCD screen will break. Meanwhile, Anycubic's warranty is only 3 months. You will be willingly letting yourself be scammed if you buy one of their printers!!!
@@geteavnroc2250 And Uniformation isn't better already, broken Plasticparts on VAT and Hing... Worn-out Screw on the Building Platform. That's carp. And they even cannot deliver the Machin...maybe with Luck u'll get one after 2 mths waiting. I never had that crap with my Anycubic, as this Machine is running perfect since over 6mths. No Idea whats so special on the GKtwo.
About the heater 'heating the resin last', what if I warm the resin first? It will keep the warm resign temperature easier, right? I'm deciding between this and Saturn 3 Ultra (with custom heating). Unfortunately Uniformation is too expensive.
Hello, could you help me please, I am looking at these machines for dental laboratory use, which one would you recommend, if they are compatible with Chitubox. 1- Anycubic Photon D2. 2- Anycubic Photon M5S Pro 14k. 3- Anycubic Photon M5S 12K. 4-Saturn 3 Ultra 12K Elegoo. 5-Mars 4 Max 6K Elegoo. Those are the ones I've seen or which one would be better. Please help. Greetings and thanks.
I build 1/24 scale model car parts, many of these are very small. I have a photon mono 4k that i use now. I was looking at a larger printer like this as larger items such as full bodies just don't fit, as well as to be able to print more parts at once. I was wondering how the quality is for this printer when printing very small parts? Some parts are in the area of 2mm in any direction.
I'm currently in the market for a 3d printer and I'm torn between this or the saturn 3 ultra. I know you highly recommend the saturn ultra but do you still stand by that or would you consider getting the m5s pro instead. I want to print minis, busts and 75mm figures.
My s3ultra came with a warped build plate, as did many who recently purchased. No recall, no ability to buy a replacement on Amazon, and support won’t get back to me until after the 17th bc of the holiday. I’m here looking for something else.
I am looking for a printer that can be used to print small functional parts under modeled addons for my train models, that also need to be dimensionally correct. I am currently using a mars 2 pro but am looking for an upgrade. What would you suggest? I am not really on a budget, but would preference something around 500 dollars, if the more exspwnsive ones aren’t vastly better. Thanks in advance.
yes, they can if pumping out too much heat directly at the model, which is why i said Chamber heaters are not as efficient, well that;s one reason anyway
I hope the light source is just a software update for the m5s. I am not sold on the auto leveling it doesn't seem to always work correctly. I think a manual leveling is better than the auto we currently have in it. but not much I can do about that.
@@xRaptorScreamx the m5s has no way to level besides the auto level system. You cannot adjust the build plate. The plate pushes down and the screen and vat all get pushed down with it. and then supposedly gets locked in place at a set level. but In my experience it isn't always accurate on that. on my other printers I can manually level it and get consistent results. Its the inconsistency that is annoying. for the most part i get successful prints om my m5s but sometime it just didn't level correctly and there isn't anything I can change to make it work better.
hey you mentioned your "top pick printer" id like to know which one would that be I'm looking for a verry high quality resin printer that has a decent print volume like 200x200mm or something around that range. also id like to know what airbrush is good enuf to just paint models nothing too fancy for maybe 100€ to a max of 240€
have you seen this video? ruclips.net/video/pRiDUaDz_z8/видео.html If you can push to the max on an airbrush, get a Harder and Steen back infinity (Cult of Paint version) or evolution is a bit cheaper. Alternately the new H&S Ultra is a solid starter brush
I am upgrading from the HalotOne what would you recommend for making DnD minis the Saturn 3 ultra or the M5s pro. I’m looking for more detail and quality. Print time is not as important to me.
I have a quick question other channels report this when it starts printing goes all the way down then resets to top position which cause resin to drip all around the cover and around the vat. did you have this issue? trying to decided between this or if the gk2 is worth the price upgrade
I was just looking for one of your videos to get the Elegoo afiliate link, to get the saturn 3 ultra, and stumble uppon this review, thanks for the time on making theese, i did consider this printer, as i had an anycubic photon mono 4k, that broke down, and im looking for the replacement, and idk, the better the already know bad product than a posible good one yet to discover (idk if that is a saying in englis or just in spanish) i was thinking about anycubic, but, with this review, i have my choice of the elegoo saturn 4 ultra, so much more decided than 15:14 seconds ago :) thanks so much, ill make sure to use your afiliate link
@@ausfoodgarden yep, the saturn 3, altho im also considering the GKtwo, its much expensive as the elegoo, but according to Ros, its worth it, so im making numbers
@@BrickBazooka Well, I hope you're right. I've been holding off buying a 10in printer as I don't "need" it only want it. But some of the things I'm printing now would be way easier. Cheers!
Picked up a hell of a lot of info from your videos BUT the one video nobody does which surely is more important to new users is the actual resin types - how about creating a video comparing different types and there pros and cons..?
That sounds like a great idea, but moist of the different "types" are little more than marketing names. ABS like from one brand could mean a totally different thing to another brand.
@@FauxHammer So how do new users establish what resin to use - prime example vogman printer review used "brittle" resin which is no good to anybody....?
@@timstoth4271 well it depends… the more brittle resins are usually higher detail/smoother and for statues containing mostly thick parts, they are useful. But this is. Or so good if you’re making tabletop miniatures because the small fine parts can snap by just touching them. You need something more robust but that will loose detail If you want to do jewellery casting. You’ll need a cast able resin which is wax like and soft. Then there are many more technical resins. So I’d start with what you want to print, and choose the best resins for that.
@@FauxHammer That's the whole point behind my question right now I'm not interested in miniatures and ALL printer reviews reviews seen cover miniatures - I print tabletop gaming terrain & role play replicas which requires strength used FDM & standard PLA for years but some parts can't be printed on an FDM hence why I'm trying to find the right printer, software AND resin require strength - its okay reviewing printers until the cows come home BUT without resin type reviews HOW are new users going to know what resin to use....
@@timstoth4271 That's a fair point and I honestly don;t know. I guess most people just start with a Standard resin you get from the brand and then after that will join various groups and forums. But I expect that most of the time, people will end up buying the cheapest workable product they can.
I am trying to decide if its worth paying less for this printer over the GKTwo. I am wondering how much of an advantage is the bigger Z axis on the GKTwo as this just seems a little low for a mid range
I'd easily pick the GKTWO over this if i had the funds, this is great in the budget sector, but of you are after a product that will certainly last a few years, then the GKTWO is it. This is a massive improvement step from anycubic, but not a leader in the market,
So the Mono M5s Pro is a mid quality printer. I've been having a lot of failures, settings were as Anycubic stated with their standard Resin V2, prints still failed, or partially.
I can't believe one of their cost cutting measures was to not include rubber feet. That's so ridiculous it's funny.
Yeah but they can sell you new feet for $50 afterward. You could also just buy a $10 heat mat for under it.
Just 3d print new feet 🤷♂️
For the price, this printer is pretty dang good. It's common in the 3d printing community to 3d print your own upgrades.
It’s almost like they’re as cheap as the people they’re selling to.
I can. Its amazing how companies seem to constantly miss what consumers care about. They cut costs on wanted things and keep stuff that arent important. Look at elegoo. Saturn 4 ultra.. tilting bed.. no heater or port for one etc.
Those little plastic ovals are supposed to have adhesive rubber inserts. it looks like they forgot about them.
I have been researching my first 3-D printer. Without having printed before the choices were confusing and overwhelming. Finally, last night I found your channel and went through many of your videos and settled on this printer. every printer within my budget seem to have inevitably strong points and weak points and one has to weigh them against each other. I know now I’ve made a good choice as a beginner. Thank you for your honest reviews. They are clear and easy to understand and I love the comparisons and that you do not pander to different manufacturers.
Glad it was helpful! And I’m so glad you found the “right printer” “for you”!
I have a small side hustle where I help a local DnD Studio with their prints. We have an M5s. We call it the Fast Printer. Not the Best Printer, or the Good Printer, just the Fast Printer. Currently I'm printing 160 various models for a collab, and the minis get printed on the Mono X, Mono X 6k, and 2 DLP's. The bases get printed on the Fast Printer. Bigger pieces / terrain as well.
This printer looks like a nice middle of the road option between features and affordability. But it definitely needs rubber feet.
Hey Ross, loving the fact you are a miniatures orientated reviewer, have you thought about doing some terrain on the larger format printers? I haven't seen anyone really look at them for that. With SLA allowing hollow prints and less support material than FDM and the price of 1l of resin being near 1kg of good PLA+ the cost is almost comparable. Would love to see a video with different resins, drop tests etc.. like you did with the miniatures!
I bought an M5s. To get around the heater issue I just run the build plate under hot tap water until the plate is hot. Wipe the thing dry, reinstall and print. NO failed prints since I started doing this.
Ever tried popping the resin in the microwave for a minute?
Hi Ross. Thanks for another great video. I'm new to your channel, but since I have been watching you, you have been the most informative reviewer on resin printers around. And may I say, the most fair reviewer of 3D printers I've heard. I'm currently a Bambu Labs X1C owner for a year now. I've been printing prototypes for my clients when it's needed. But not new to FDM printing, as I had a printer for many years (10yrs now). Your videos are helping me make a better informed decision for a resin printer (eventually).
Keep up the great work.
So just found your video review. I absolutely love this printer. It’s simple, works, and does heck of fast prints. I have both the nfep and acf vats and I swap between the two. I started to 3d print a model rollercoaster that works. The track is printed with fast print resin and the train is printed with 8k resin. I ended up having a dead projector that I stole the rubber feet off and it is perfect for keeping the printer steady. Now for one update that you will like, I never print with usb. I print from my computer directly to the printer via the photon workshop slicer. All WiFi no usb or cords. The only reason I use my phone app was for set up or to check my prints. Actually I traveled from my home and finished a model on my trip, connected to WiFi at the hotel and printed my model. When I got home my print was finished and didn’t have any issues.
While some of this stuff goes over my head, that RERF feature sounds incredible! I usually print AmeraLabs Towns for calibration, and having to wait over an hour just to see that I have to run another print 0.2 seconds less or more can be aggravating when switching to a new resin. Having a range of calibrations done simultaneously sounds like a dream.
The rerf is a great idea that has always had me interested in their printers, I just didn't like chitu or lychee, and I never thought they were meant to produce accurate parts.
I don't mind Lychee, but Chitu feels really weird. I wish there was a pay-once option though instead of a subscription for the full service. I don't 3D print often enough to make the subscription feel worth it.
Not sure what's the issues you're having with the wifi, but it works well on my M5s, and I can send prints from the Photon Workshop on my desktop directly to the printer, the app I use just for monitoring. Basically, both the printer and desktop are connectred to the same network, and the printer shows up in my slicer to send prints to no issues. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding your point, but it definitely works with my PC.
i have never gotten it to work directly to my computer. I don't use the smartphone app with the printer which as far as I can tell you need to use to set it up.
Another commenter here wrote that files sent from the slicer are sent via the cloud which then needs to be cleaned out occasionally. Can you confirm that it's possible to bypass using cloud?
@@markburton5292 It does need the app for the setup, yes. It doesn't go "directly" to the printer from the computer, but you don't need to send it to the app and then the printer manually. You just click remote print in your slicer, it gets uploaded to the app and the printer, and the print starts, no manual steps past clicking remote print.
@@DanJ-yt7cb The files go through the app, which highly likely is hosted on some cloud provider, so don't think you can bypass that. The "cleaning" part is your print history in the app I guess, same as you'd need to clean the memory of your printer.
@@rumenmatanov303 here is my problem with that. I don't want to be required to install the app on my phone to set it up. I hate smart phones I don't want the world accessing my life from my phone. so i will just keep using the sneakernet ( put it on you r sneakers (shoes) save the sliced file to usb and walk over to the printer and print from the usb)
I actually want to thank you for your work and efforts. Last month i got the m5s and was very disappointed with its quality. It didnt work at all after 20 failed prints and half a bottle of resin. Before these fails,Out of the box it came with a screen fault error where the screen needed to be "calibrated " so leveled. I returned it and git the mini 8ks big difference.
ooof, that;s a pain, buty glad you;re happy now
Ross, i send prints from my desktop to my M5s literally daily. You have to be connected to the AC cloud in the slicer. You dont even need the most recent version of their slicer, ive been on 3.14 for a while bc new versions dont launch for some reason
If it works through any cloud only I'm not interested. Give us local control!
I guess one of the many issues is not having a standard that companies can agree upon to get things going.
@anticom1337 agreed, a cloud hosted somewhere isn't good for creative work
same, it works fine for me too. 2GB free space, its plenty. i wish there was an auto tidy so it would auto delete from the printer itself afterwards, but thats just a maintenance task i do every few weeks
I bought this yesterday as my 5th resin-printer. I have so much joy with my two M3+ and needed a printer for more details (small miniatures) with other selfmade Resin-blends. I really needed a heater and I paided 80€ per piece for my 2xM3+ and can't print with my Photon Ultra because of the temp. So I preordered one with 2x1kg for 452€ with a coupon... Means after subtracting the costs for Resin/heater I payed 332€ for a printer that will last me at least 3 years... When it prints like the M3's, than I'm absolutely happy and I can swap the heater to my Photon Ultra if needed :)
How has it been 3 months in? I'm now debating this and the Saturn 4 Ultra.
It's got the Version 2 build plate I see! Fully adjustable! I worked with anycubic to get that pushed out to original m5s owners
I just bought one of these after watching your video, it's like $130 is buck cheaper during it's pre release and comes with 2kg of resin. So let's hope I made a good decision. BTW Ross, I did use your link.
If anycubic is fast and poorer quality, what would be a slow and high quality printer? I don't care about speed - I just want good quality.
UniFormation GKtwo or GK3
3:20 It has rubber feet now for extra stability, and it cost me €330. Just got my first resin printer! Super excited to dive into the world of 3D resin printing
Hahah thanks. I have no idea they added these. About time! Hope you love it!!
where would this place in your best printers for miniatures considering you stated is better than prior M5 and M5s and the one you would personally buy in that price range?
1 Ultracraft Reflex HeyGears
2 UniFormación GKTwo
3 Elegoo Saturno 4 Ultra
4 Anycubic M7 Pro
5 Elegoo Saturno 3 Ultra
6 Elegoo Saturno 4
61 PHOTON MONO 7
7 Elegoo Saturn 3 - 12k
8 Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K
9 Anycubic M5 Pro
10 Elegoo Marte 5 Ultra
11 Elegoo Marte 4 Ultra
12 Elegoo Marte 4 (9k)
13 Anycubic Photon X6K
14 Elegoo Marte 4 Max
15 Fotón Anycubic D2
16 Marte 4 - DLP
de una reseña que el hizo
I just ordered one. Happy Birthday to meeeee!!!!!
Congrats with both birthday and printer, wish all the best for your life and 3d printing experience!
The cons out weigh the pros. Goodluck none the less.
@@jasoncombs3232what cons? builtquality?
no ready standard slicing software at the moment like chitubox or lychee, just use anycubic workshop that is really insuficient and not good. specially with the matter of supports , bases etc..and much more options of the software that do not works properly. @@BrickBazooka
I have an M3 premium, it's fantastic but I'm a bit gutted that it's been dropped... With consumable parts like screens becoming hard to source I'm not sure whether to just keep it until the screen dies and then change it or try to buy one or two spare screens ahead of time - I did find one source for the screens but not sure how long they'll be available. Don't think I'll be buying anycubic again just for the bad taste of how they handled the m3 premium. I don't really understand why they need to saturate the market with so many different printer models, they could cut their offerings in half and still have all bases (cheap, expensive, small and medium sizes) covered.
Yeah I’m in the same boat, it has completely turned me off of anycubic…
I have to correct you about the wifi stuff, I have an M5 and you can send prints to it from your PC, but they HAVE TO be sent from their slicer, things like Lychee dont work that way. there is a storage limitation as well, as it sends to anycubic cloud and then from cloud to printer (which is a big question of "why? just send it to printer direct"
I've been sending all of my prints from my PC to the printer via wifi through the Anycubic slicer. Works great. You just have to occasionally clean out the cloud storage.
This was interesting to learn. I was under the impression that pressing "Remote Print" sent it directly to the printer, and that "Save to cloud" was for cloud printing. Hmm, now I'm back to thinking of Saturn Ultra again!
@DanJ-yt7cb I think saving to the cloud makes it easier to manage/delete files from the PC/slicer (I also deleted unneeded files using the phone app) rather than having to do it from the interface on the printer, but just a guess.
@@harrisjc03 Makes sense. Thanks for your help
When I first saw the advertising for this printer I was hopeful that it might be a worthy replacement for my farm of Saturn 3’s.
But it doesn’t sound like it is.
I'm gonna stick to my M3 Max, but I definitely want the heater. It'll save money, rather than turning the central heater on.
Hold up homie, you can Wi-Fi send prints directly from your PC through the anycubic slicer directly to the M5. How did you miss that? I have been printing since Christmas and I've used the USB port exactly once.
So the biggest real issue is still the plastic feet.
I'm here because I'm looking for my first resin 3D printer. I'd like to know what resin 3D printers would be better than this one, considering that you consider this to be a cheapo 3D printer... As in, What printer should I buy if I want this kind of size and features, but without the nasty cheap mistakes that you've pointed out in this video
I'm kind of curious what kind of software update is going to be altering the physical nature of their lightsource. The only thing I can imagine would be using a mask that is added to whatever image is being printed to darken areas of the screen that are too hot, but that would be very machine-specific.
Isnt the RERF thing or something just like it also in UVTools?
Not sure why I'm watching this you convinced me to go with the GKTwo so I ordered that on Sunday 😁
there is indeed an RERF type thing in UV tools, its a knob to use though, this is just so simple - any 8 models, make sure they dont touch (ive had all kinds of things in here), name it R_E_R_F and off you go
yes please do a video on rerf...i have not seen a good video with a fully detailed proper explanation
Will do
So excited about that heater I'm going to pick one up.
I'm glad I saw your video, I pre-ordered on amazon, and cancelled it the next day. Too many wrong points. I will go for the Elegoo saturn 3 ultra.
really? what put you off specifically, i;m worried I;ve come across as wrong, becasue I quite like this printer and hope that was clear?
Thank you for the review. I own the M3 premium, and I'm just waiting for the M5 Premium. I was hoping this was going to be it, but clearly, it is not.
I brought this printer just half an hour ago after I watched vogman's videos on it, now you have me doubting, I mean coming from a Saturn S I guess I'll see a huge improvement
What doubts are you having? Yeah you'll see an improvement from the Saturn S
@@FauxHammer I ended up cancelling the order, the COB+fresnel lense thing new printers have seem to make all the difference, plus the new Saturn 4s will have PFA rather than ACF films so that really tilted the scales for me, I'll be waiting for the refund and get me a Saturn 4
@@3lcost3 AH ok, Yeah all sensible reasons. Sorry, I was worried you'd seen this as a negative review and balked. I do get grumpy when people see my work as negative or positive, I try my hardest to stay on the fence and just show what these machines do.
Hey Ross, just wanted to let you know that I bought a Saturn 3 Ultra based on your videos as well as other reviewers and it's been printing for me non-stop for a day now! Having a ton more fun with the newer printer. Thanks a ton for what you do it has certainly educated me before my purchase. My last printer was the Anycubic Photon S and the only things that came out well in that were larger models or models without a lot of detail, but this printer is giving high levels of detail out of the box. Also, I did buy the Chitu Systems heater you said you were considering reviewing in an earlier video. I think you should consider reviewing it. My own experience with it is that the heater works quite well and has given me consistent temperatures, was easy to set up, but there are a few caveats: The magnetic plate it comes with is quite huge, and the trim guard it comes with needs to be adhered to the lid which can leave a mess. I ended up not using the trim guard and instead opted to Dremel a notch in the lid of my printer which works quite nicely and was less work than trying to put the trim on, as well as not leaving a mess of adhesive on my lid I need to clean up at some point.
My m5s has been a disappointment and after lots of tweaking and a new build plate on warranty from Anycubic it still doesn’t print as good as a Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra I bought after getting fed up with the m5s. The Ultra has run for a couple of weeks and not yet a failed print.
the Ultra is an incredible machine, I must have sold hundreds over xmas and hardly heard a bad word
@@FauxHammermy only complaint is it splashes resin all over the place, even on “normal” mode.
Which one is better? M5s pro or saturn 3 ultra?
@@DiegoSouza-ou6ei I prefer the Saturn 3 Ultra, and if you need a heater, get a third party one.
If that separate heater works that well it looks like it could be modded to other brands of printer as well.
Must say though it doesn't need a heater! Used the m5s all winter with no issues on the UV heating up the resin still hate the printer it does print nice now new Build plate is relised and being sent to people like the saturn 3 ultra so you have some manual levelling as the build plates were angled and 2mm to short! I printed a new spacer from printables for mine it worked great and anycubic then worked with me put the new update on the printer and has new Build plate! What build plate comes with it version 1 or version 2 with the 4 hex bolts?
There’s so much stock footage in this that this should’ve been a podcast
This printer is too half-assed to deserve bespoke footage.
So im still good with waiting for my uniformation gk2 to arrive?
yep
I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for asking.
@@AlphaRay220because of m5spro might be the better bet?
I wouldn't ever buy an Anycubic again. The last one I bought their cost cutting measures was to not include any fans on it. So it overheated on every print. I had to take it apart to find out what was wrong. A daunting task for someone who has never taken apart a 3d printer before.
on my mono 6k, I glued and screwed a flexible heated seed mat to the inside of the cover, I can't see my prints but I stopped getting print fails. Also in colder months I put a blankie on it...
Does anycubic have some kind of patent on their exposure time range finder or are all the other manufacturers just extremely lazy?
Just got my M5S Pro (Thanks for this awesome review.!). How can you tell the difference between the 8 squares on the RERF test? Are they marked exposure times on each one of the squares?
Thanks for sharing your time and work and that heater is a pretty nifty idea.
Idk if someone mentioned this yet, but I can print remotely from my PC now through photon workshop.
compared to the Saturn 3 Ultra the M5s pro only gives me 200 mm print height. 60mm less as S3U and only 30mm more as the M3pro. Enough sensors which can brake or gives a fake error. I was struggling with my self which one will print on my side. I decided for S3 Ultra for 469€. I'm more than confident with the point that i level my bed manually. Having a higher print height and a z ballscrew as well. The heater on M5s pro is not necessary in my case, im printing in a heated basement. For sure there more fancy extras on M5SP but do I really need it. 12K vs 14K? different number same optic. I like the design, screen protection and the lower price from the M5SP. At the end the Saturn is my friend for the next time which I ordered finally.
I cant preorder it, I need to see what Elegoo has to offer later this year. Hopefully less noisy with almost the same features like this one. I like Anycubic, but I dont want a cheap machine. I still hope there'll be a mid size DLP Printer out there soon 🙏
I'm still pissed that Anycubic kills the M3 Premium!
Insanity at it's finest!
Considering the "logic" behind their other products (Wash&Cure Pro for example), it would be more shocking if Anycubic would make logical decissions. :)
Thank for great review!
I use phone app to print something I find interesting. Next day I give my prints to someone in the office or to my kids. My m5s is a toy for me. :)
hey, Thanks for the great review! I'm still new to 3D printing and have been considering for some time whether (and which) resin printer I should buy. I've been wavering between the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12K and the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s Pro and I can't make up my mind. The most important issue is the odour. We are an office with a shop and I want to install the printer one floor down by the window (just a staircase, there's no door or anything). Which one can I use better without being unable to work on the PC? So how well do the air filters work? You can also connect a larger extraction station to the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12K if the two small filters are not sufficient. Is this also possible with the Anycubic? Or is it necessary? Could I use the two USB air filters on the Elegoo, for example, and also use the heating unit from the Anycubic? I assume that this can also be purchased separately? The more I learn, the more undecided I become...
My m5s after 2 months of working with anycubic getting the new V2 build plate as the original self levelling in production model's are 2mm to short now the V2 is more like the saturn 3 ultras they are sending out but mine is back in its box and for will be going up on market soon! I went and got the saturn 3 ultra I just should have gone with my gut in the first place but the self levelling idea got the better of me! It works great now it's got the new V2 build plate but it's so loud you can not keep it in the same room your in like a bedroom you can't run it through the night the fans are like jet engines kicking in and can't hear your TV! That's one very bad point when I first pressed print I couldn't believe the sound of the fans! I was going to see if a saturn 2 8k fan would fit as so quiet! My saturn 3 ultra is louder than my saturn 2 but nothing like the m5s!
Is the Gk2 your current favorite?
i am tired of waiting for my GKTWO so i just cancelled it and ordered this thing , why the hell not. im sure this was a bad call ?
Same for me...Uniformation meant, maybe 1 to 2 mths until they may can deliver. And now more and more I read about broken Plasticparts from the Lid and VAT... Worn-out Screws on the Building Platform, damaged Screens after few Prints..., I canceled my Order, not interested in the GK anymore.
The heater looks good. But why don't they just heat the vat itself?
cheaper engineering to do this
I got my M5S Pro last week, and I've not gotten a single successful print out of it so far. It's been bloody awful - I don't know if I just have a dodgy unit or something, but no matter the resin I've tried, or the speed I've adjusted to, I get a huge elephant's foot, peeling layers and splits higher up the print. Just generally bad, compared to my Halot One which has been reliable for over a year with the same resin.
Game over man! Game over. What're we gunna do? What're we gunna doooo?! - Pvt Hudson
Are there any proper and high quality 3D printers that are made in Japan or Germany?
My 2 cents , I don't care about print quality I make functional parts , I like the heater , I like the size every millimter gives me more options , I like the low weight it reduces my (Guatamala) very high shipping cost , a noisy fan is a real negative for me, I can add rubber feet and some weight my self. I like the low cost but would pay more for a quiet machine.
btw it is possible to do RERF like prints with UVT tools, it's a bit complicated to set up but it works on any printer with per layer settings like all elegoos, lmk if you want to know more
Thanks for the video! Do you have your settings for this printer anywhere? Thanks.
Hello, could you make a video testing water washable resin vs ipa resin? What are the drawbacks of each etc
i may cover it, it;s a lot of work and the result will be - that could have been an email.
Most Water Washables are crap and even the good ones I'll wash in Metheylated Spirit to ensure it;s clean, Water Washable also absorbs water which can cause prints to soften, go brittle, or crack,. even air moisture after the print can be a pin
Ah, figured the water washable resins had been improved over the years, seems like not then. Watched Midwinter's video and it seemed most of the fumes and vocs came from the Ipa cleaning, so would be interesting if that could be avoided with better water washable resins.@@FauxHammer
Youc an do it, and Water Washable resins are better, some anwyay, but they have caveats.
Wash for a few minutes at a time and don;t leave them sat in water and you'll be fine. I;m so distracted that i often leave prints in the wash vat and Methys are much less harmful
@@zior92
great video!now tell me ur opinion master, m5s pro or saturn 3 ultra?i print figures
Saturn 3
Hey Ross, does this printer comes with a glass plate to protect the screen? Or we have to use a protective plastic sheet? I hate those things. I always get bubbles underneath them, especially for the old Mono M5S. Which NON-DLP printers come with a protective glass Plate?
I definitely want a couple of those heaters for the winter months.
Don't!!!! Don't do it!!! Buy any other printer, except for any Anycubic printer!!! It will work for the first 5-6 months, and the either the limit switch or LCD screen will break. Meanwhile, Anycubic's warranty is only 3 months. You will be willingly letting yourself be scammed if you buy one of their printers!!!
@@geteavnroc2250 And Uniformation isn't better already, broken Plasticparts on VAT and Hing... Worn-out Screw on the Building Platform. That's carp. And they even cannot deliver the Machin...maybe with Luck u'll get one after 2 mths waiting. I never had that crap with my Anycubic, as this Machine is running perfect since over 6mths. No Idea whats so special on the GKtwo.
Love your Chanel and definitely take your opinion when shopping for my 1st printer
It's game over man! GAME OVER!
Can you tell me the difference between m7 pro and m5s pro ❤
So i bought this one to replace my old M3. Are you telling me that I'll get less sharp prints with M5s than the old M3?
About the heater 'heating the resin last', what if I warm the resin first? It will keep the warm resign temperature easier, right? I'm deciding between this and Saturn 3 Ultra (with custom heating). Unfortunately Uniformation is too expensive.
What would be better then? The pro or saturn 4 ultra?
Great work as always
Thanks
Hello, could you help me please, I am looking at these machines for dental laboratory use, which one would you recommend, if they are compatible with Chitubox. 1- Anycubic Photon D2. 2- Anycubic Photon M5S Pro 14k. 3- Anycubic Photon M5S 12K. 4-Saturn 3 Ultra 12K Elegoo. 5-Mars 4 Max 6K Elegoo. Those are the ones I've seen or which one would be better. Please help. Greetings and thanks.
I love the m3 premium. Until they have smth thats just as good, if not better, at similar prices, imma keep using it till i can't
You still need $100 wham bam plate. Would it be that hard to incorporate it into the plate Anycubic.
I build 1/24 scale model car parts, many of these are very small. I have a photon mono 4k that i use now. I was looking at a larger printer like this as larger items such as full bodies just don't fit, as well as to be able to print more parts at once.
I was wondering how the quality is for this printer when printing very small parts? Some parts are in the area of 2mm in any direction.
At least my m5s pro came with rubber feet, But I bought it not to long ago. They must of listened.
It whhhhhhhaaaaaattttttt! I had no idea!
@@FauxHammer Yes, lol no joke. I was surprised. See? They listened to you . 🤣
Cut a hole in the side or back and try heating ir from under like the gk2?
im not sure if i should get this one or the saturn 3 ultra... the Saturn is faster.. but the m5s has a heated chamber... lol cant decide...
How does this comparer to the GKTwo?
About $300-400 cheaper. In price and quality.
I'm currently in the market for a 3d printer and I'm torn between this or the saturn 3 ultra. I know you highly recommend the saturn ultra but do you still stand by that or would you consider getting the m5s pro instead. I want to print minis, busts and 75mm figures.
I;d probably still get the Saturn, but this is decent
My s3ultra came with a warped build plate, as did many who recently purchased. No recall, no ability to buy a replacement on Amazon, and support won’t get back to me until after the 17th bc of the holiday. I’m here looking for something else.
I am looking for a printer that can be used to print small functional parts under modeled addons for my train models, that also need to be dimensionally correct. I am currently using a mars 2 pro but am looking for an upgrade.
What would you suggest? I am not really on a budget, but would preference something around 500 dollars, if the more exspwnsive ones aren’t vastly better. Thanks in advance.
Hello At minute 8:10 you say you get 13 posts and 13 holes, but you only show 10. Which is correct?
Could someone direct me to the silicone tray/green tray that is being used here when removing the plate? Looks very handy!
Doesn’t the heater weakens the print, as it’s blowing forwards
How many weeks/months are we waiting for elegoo to take these features for the next saturn? I think we'll see one by april at the latest!
yeah might be, also everything with actually good quality and stabile Linux OS and big IPS Screen :)
I heard that chamber heaters ruin the properties of printed models like makes them weaker or softer/harder. Is there any truth to that?
yes, they can if pumping out too much heat directly at the model, which is why i said Chamber heaters are not as efficient, well that;s one reason anyway
@@FauxHammer makes sense, thanks 👍
I honestly just want the heater
I hope the light source is just a software update for the m5s. I am not sold on the auto leveling it doesn't seem to always work correctly.
I think a manual leveling is better than the auto we currently have in it. but not much I can do about that.
never had issues with leveling, but if out of the box isnt leveled, i get it, you can still level it manually, but it's a bit annoying
@@xRaptorScreamx the m5s has no way to level besides the auto level system. You cannot adjust the build plate.
The plate pushes down and the screen and vat all get pushed down with it. and then supposedly gets locked in place at a set level. but In my experience it isn't always accurate on that.
on my other printers I can manually level it and get consistent results. Its the inconsistency that is annoying. for the most part i get successful prints om my m5s but sometime it just didn't level correctly and there isn't anything I can change to make it work better.
Still rocking my Mono 2, and it's great quality for the price point.
Definitely gonna pick up that heater though 🤌
yeah, great device ay
Hey, how does this machine handle "Water-Wash Resin+"
hey you mentioned your "top pick printer" id like to know which one would that be I'm looking for a verry high quality resin printer that has a decent print volume like 200x200mm or something around that range. also id like to know what airbrush is good enuf to just paint models nothing too fancy for maybe 100€ to a max of 240€
have you seen this video? ruclips.net/video/pRiDUaDz_z8/видео.html
If you can push to the max on an airbrush, get a Harder and Steen back infinity (Cult of Paint version) or evolution is a bit cheaper. Alternately the new H&S Ultra is a solid starter brush
I am upgrading from the HalotOne what would you recommend for making DnD minis the Saturn 3 ultra or the M5s pro. I’m looking for more detail and quality. Print time is not as important to me.
Easy, Saturn 3 ultra. It’s not even close.
@@FauxHammer thanks, that’s the way I was leaning just wanted your opinion. Cheers!
Does it have anti aliasing that actually works or just advertised as working again?
I have a quick question other channels report this when it starts printing goes all the way down then resets to top position which cause resin to drip all around the cover and around the vat. did you have this issue? trying to decided between this or if the gk2 is worth the price upgrade
Ummm, I never noticed.
4min in and I am not buying this. good job man
I was just looking for one of your videos to get the Elegoo afiliate link, to get the saturn 3 ultra, and stumble uppon this review, thanks for the time on making theese, i did consider this printer, as i had an anycubic photon mono 4k, that broke down, and im looking for the replacement, and idk, the better the already know bad product than a posible good one yet to discover (idk if that is a saying in englis or just in spanish) i was thinking about anycubic, but, with this review, i have my choice of the elegoo saturn 4 ultra, so much more decided than 15:14 seconds ago :) thanks so much, ill make sure to use your afiliate link
Do you mean Saturn 3 Ultra or is there a new one coming out?
@@ausfoodgarden yep, the saturn 3, altho im also considering the GKtwo, its much expensive as the elegoo, but according to Ros, its worth it, so im making numbers
@@ausfoodgardenof course there is a new one coming out soon. anycubic first, then elegoo same 14k screen and maybe even heated. I'm pretty sure
@@BrickBazooka Well, I hope you're right. I've been holding off buying a 10in printer as I don't "need" it only want it. But some of the things I'm printing now would be way easier. Cheers!
Picked up a hell of a lot of info from your videos BUT the one video nobody does which surely is more important to new users is the actual resin types - how about creating a video comparing different types and there pros and cons..?
That sounds like a great idea, but moist of the different "types" are little more than marketing names. ABS like from one brand could mean a totally different thing to another brand.
@@FauxHammer So how do new users establish what resin to use - prime example vogman printer review used "brittle" resin which is no good to anybody....?
@@timstoth4271 well it depends… the more brittle resins are usually higher detail/smoother and for statues containing mostly thick parts, they are useful.
But this is. Or so good if you’re making tabletop miniatures because the small fine parts can snap by just touching them. You need something more robust but that will loose detail
If you want to do jewellery casting. You’ll need a cast able resin which is wax like and soft. Then there are many more technical resins.
So I’d start with what you want to print, and choose the best resins for that.
@@FauxHammer That's the whole point behind my question right now I'm not interested in miniatures and ALL printer reviews reviews seen cover miniatures - I print tabletop gaming terrain & role play replicas which requires strength used FDM & standard PLA for years but some parts can't be printed on an FDM hence why I'm trying to find the right printer, software AND resin require strength - its okay reviewing printers until the cows come home BUT without resin type reviews HOW are new users going to know what resin to use....
@@timstoth4271 That's a fair point and I honestly don;t know. I guess most people just start with a Standard resin you get from the brand and then after that will join various groups and forums.
But I expect that most of the time, people will end up buying the cheapest workable product they can.
I am trying to decide if its worth paying less for this printer over the GKTwo. I am wondering how much of an advantage is the bigger Z axis on the GKTwo as this just seems a little low for a mid range
Im actually looking for every piece of information to decide whether to invest less in this or make an effort for the gk. I cant make up my mind
I'd easily pick the GKTWO over this if i had the funds, this is great in the budget sector, but of you are after a product that will certainly last a few years, then the GKTWO is it. This is a massive improvement step from anycubic, but not a leader in the market,
as mentioned above, if you can get the GKTWO, get that.
@@FauxHammer Do you think Elegoo will come up with a new heated saturn anytime soon?
@@ReliquiaLaserCraft your guess is as good as mine...
It'll be great when the heater becomes available. Nothing yet.
Hey fauxhammer
Am I'm the only one with problems with the heater dripping all the resin out of the VAT as doon as the build plate goes up?
I' didn't have it on the heater, I had it a bit on the inside of the lid. are you on the latest firmware?
I don't see any update in the anycubic website
And yes i mean the lid . But the heater seems to be the one blowing the resin into the lid
So the Mono M5s Pro is a mid quality printer. I've been having a lot of failures, settings were as Anycubic stated with their standard Resin V2, prints still failed, or partially.
Yes it is a mid quality printer. Sorry for your experience. I hope you can get it resolved
@fauxhammer So is it normal or just this printer being a little weird saying that after just 30,000 layers you are to replace the ACF file already?
That’s about normal to be honest (but I ignore when these printers tell us to replace the Film and I decide myself)
@@FauxHammer OK cheers mate
Can someone give me a very brief summary of the pros/cons? I still can't watch the video so need a cliff note.