Thanks for such a helpful video. Wife and I are considering a log cabin that's for sale. BTW, my dad grew up in Bluefield, WV....ok...I'll say it the way dad did: "West by God Stand Up and Shout Virginia". Sounds like you're working in that area, and what a beautiful part of the country it is.
You are so nice and brilliant with knowing wood. I would trust you beyond a doubt with my sill rot here in Ma. I’d pay you well and give you meals and a room…but here in the world of scams I am proceeding to replace my sill rot myself…way over my skill level.
Todd I have sill rot about 15 feet needing replacement cabin was built in 1985 they never used pressure treated wood. They laid a 2x8 flat atop concrete foundation and then stacked the full logs atop that. In addition the middle of the sill rot appears to have begun from a poured concrete chimney which was removed and thus held moisture as concrete will do. So the 12 inch cut out into the concrete to place beam ( made out of four 2x12s) has 50% termite rot no longer active yet has weakened the foundation in basement as noted by 1.5 inch drop over a ten foot length as measured by a laser light. BIG question is now what to do most affordable. A trustworthy friend of a friend who does these repairs suggested fill it with concrete…I thought that was not a good idea and suggested hydraulic cement. So I am watching every RUclips video I can find on this subject.
Dan, sounds like you've got your hands full. Can't really advise with being there and laying eyes on the situation. I would really seek some advice from someone who is local and two, someone who knows what they are doing. Good luck on your project brother 🍀🍺.
Thanks for all the info. I have a log sided cabin that needs to be sanded and restained. What would you suggest for sanding/preparing the log siding prior to restaining? I am considering using a random orbit sander and/or osborn brush.
I've done both, and I prefer the Osborn brush on an angle grinder. Keep it moving, don't over do it with the sanding by sanding on the logs to much. I would start out on the backside of the cabin, so that you have your technique down when you get to the more visible areas. Thanks for watching, please subscribe and good luck on your project!
Thank you sir. Really appreciate having dudes like you. I need you advice. I'm staining my home for the first time. I will be using min wax semi transparent stain (it's the only one I have available). However, this doesn't have any uv protection. Also they have told me that if I apply a clear protective coat, it will flake after some time and will be trouble. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Is that the only stain available? A couple of thoughts. Make sure that Minwax is exterior, two, the no UV will make it fade quickly. Several brands I use be are a two step process. The stain, then a top coat or clear coat. Good luck and thanks for watching! ☘️
My wife and recently purchased a log home with a lot of the same exterior issues as you showed in this video. There are a few logs that need to be replaced/repaired (I much appreciate that demo video as well). It looks like the entire home has been neglected for a few years. The entire exterior appears to be extremely dry. I have a feeling I will have to do a solid stain due to the condition of the logs, but I want to get the wood back to a healthy state before covering anything. Do you have any recommendation for dry wood, or once the logs are weather checked is it past the point if no return (time for caulk and fill)?
As you described your situation, it sounds like a Sherwin Williams solid color stain is your best option. If you go that route, you can use wood filler, wood Bondo and log caulk to make your repairs and the solid stain will cover the imperfections. Good luck on your project 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe
Hello, good to have experienced folks like you out there. I just bought a log home built in mid 70’s that’s been taken care of. I do have some work needing done on the sw exposure where the clear coat is flaking. I’m short on time but want to protect before winter hits. It’s an oil based varnish, but I’d like to eventually redo the whole place in spring with permachink water based products. Would u recommend sand,stain, top coat for now, then stripping and redoing whole house in spring? Also where do u recommend to buy Osborn brushes (nylon) for a grinder? Thanks.
Thanks for the encouragement Warren. Oil based, I use PPG. They have a maintenance coat, colorless, that you can use for a top coat. Perma Chink will have your supplies for log home needs, like Osborn brushes. You can also shop around on Amazon. Good luck on your project 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe!
You show the black spots and peeling of the Sikkens on the weathered side. Looks just like my SW wall. What do you do to get rid of the black? Looks like mold but I don’t think it is?
I have bought a log home Perris, CA and slowly renovating and repairing. This was super helpful. Do you know who is available in this side of the country that I can hire for more work to be done?
Thanks for what you do. I'm also in S/W VA. Bedford, and have a 2 story log home built in the 80s. I have the Carpenter Bee problem. Lots of bee holes and wood pecker holes. What produce do you use to make repairs so that it blends in and looks good? By the way I found Bifen XTS. Mix and use a pump up sprayer. Spray in the hole, they crawl out and die. And the hole never repopulate. Now I have to fix the holes. Please help.
Cool deal, I'm near Galax. For Carpenter Bee holes, I use a stainable wood filler or log caulk that matches the stain. Perma Chink has a great line of products. Good luck on your project 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe!
@@CowboyKevsvids I use MinWax Stainable wood filler. If you have to fill a deep hole, it may take several steps to get it built out. It stains out well too.
Yes, you can use Log Wash for the inside of the logs too. One bucket of cleaner and another with clean water. Good luck with the project. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Wow, great questions. I've never done a Redwood log home just pine and western cedar. However, I would recommend the Perma Chink Log Wash since you are really washing the stain on the logs (never use bleach or bleach based product). To be safe, I would call Perma Chink about their Log Wash or their Cedar Wash to see which would be best. 1-800-548-3554. Let me know how it goes! Thanks for watching!
You mentioned caulking butt joints with log siding. Is chinking necessary with log siding? Just sanded down my garage. It has a vapor barrier behind the log siding.. Using log wash, caulk butt joints/nail holes, and then stain. Haven't picked a stain yet. Looking st PPG products.
@@hwkfans go to Perma chink website read details on Caulk over chinking. Without seeing it, I would say log caulk would be your best route. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Eric, thanks for asking. This house was not built well and NEVER maintained. Like anything, especially Log Homes, you have to stay on top of things, regular maintenance schedule. If you have any specific questions, please feel free to send me an email Todd@ontrackrepairs.com. Semper Fi
Thanks for such a helpful video. Wife and I are considering a log cabin that's for sale. BTW, my dad grew up in Bluefield, WV....ok...I'll say it the way dad did: "West by God Stand Up and Shout Virginia". Sounds like you're working in that area, and what a beautiful part of the country it is.
Awesome, it is a beautiful area! Good luck on cabin shopping. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
You are so nice and brilliant with knowing wood. I would trust you beyond a doubt with my sill rot here in Ma. I’d pay you well and give you meals and a room…but here in the world of scams I am proceeding to replace my sill rot myself…way over my skill level.
Good luck brother. See my other post. 🍀🍺👍
Todd I have sill rot about 15 feet needing replacement cabin was built in 1985 they never used pressure treated wood. They laid a 2x8 flat atop concrete foundation and then stacked the full logs atop that. In addition the middle of the sill rot appears to have begun from a poured concrete chimney which was removed and thus held moisture as concrete will do. So the 12 inch cut out into the concrete to place beam ( made out of four 2x12s) has 50% termite rot no longer active yet has weakened the foundation in basement as noted by 1.5 inch drop over a ten foot length as measured by a laser light.
BIG question is now what to do most affordable. A trustworthy friend of a friend who does these repairs suggested fill it with concrete…I thought that was not a good idea and suggested hydraulic cement. So I am watching every RUclips video I can find on this subject.
Dan, sounds like you've got your hands full. Can't really advise with being there and laying eyes on the situation. I would really seek some advice from someone who is local and two, someone who knows what they are doing. Good luck on your project brother 🍀🍺.
Thanks for all the info. I have a log sided cabin that needs to be sanded and restained. What would you suggest for sanding/preparing the log siding prior to restaining? I am considering using a random orbit sander and/or osborn brush.
I've done both, and I prefer the Osborn brush on an angle grinder. Keep it moving, don't over do it with the sanding by sanding on the logs to much. I would start out on the backside of the cabin, so that you have your technique down when you get to the more visible areas. Thanks for watching, please subscribe and good luck on your project!
Thank you sir. Really appreciate having dudes like you. I need you advice. I'm staining my home for the first time. I will be using min wax semi transparent stain (it's the only one I have available). However, this doesn't have any uv protection. Also they have told me that if I apply a clear protective coat, it will flake after some time and will be trouble. Thanks
Thanks for watching. Is that the only stain available? A couple of thoughts. Make sure that Minwax is exterior, two, the no UV will make it fade quickly. Several brands I use be are a two step process. The stain, then a top coat or clear coat. Good luck and thanks for watching! ☘️
In the video I think you said to wash the logs from the bottom up. Is there a particular reason for doing it this way? Thanks for the video.
Good question. When you wash from the bottom to the top, it prevents streaks. Thanks for watching!
@@TheSawDustDude Thanks!
My wife and recently purchased a log home with a lot of the same exterior issues as you showed in this video. There are a few logs that need to be replaced/repaired (I much appreciate that demo video as well). It looks like the entire home has been neglected for a few years. The entire exterior appears to be extremely dry. I have a feeling I will have to do a solid stain due to the condition of the logs, but I want to get the wood back to a healthy state before covering anything. Do you have any recommendation for dry wood, or once the logs are weather checked is it past the point if no return (time for caulk and fill)?
As you described your situation, it sounds like a Sherwin Williams solid color stain is your best option. If you go that route, you can use wood filler, wood Bondo and log caulk to make your repairs and the solid stain will cover the imperfections. Good luck on your project 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe
@@TheSawDustDude thank you for the response!!! I will most definitely check out the solid stain you recommended. 💯 subscribed!!
Hello, good to have experienced folks like you out there. I just bought a log home built in mid 70’s that’s been taken care of. I do have some work needing done on the sw exposure where the clear coat is flaking. I’m short on time but want to protect before winter hits. It’s an oil based varnish, but I’d like to eventually redo the whole place in spring with permachink water based products. Would u recommend sand,stain, top coat for now, then stripping and redoing whole house in spring? Also where do u recommend to buy Osborn brushes (nylon) for a grinder? Thanks.
Thanks for the encouragement Warren. Oil based, I use PPG. They have a maintenance coat, colorless, that you can use for a top coat. Perma Chink will have your supplies for log home needs, like Osborn brushes. You can also shop around on Amazon. Good luck on your project 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe!
You show the black spots and peeling of the Sikkens on the weathered side. Looks just like my SW wall. What do you do to get rid of the black? Looks like mold but I don’t think it is?
I have bought a log home Perris, CA and slowly renovating and repairing. This was super helpful. Do you know who is available in this side of the country that I can hire for more work to be done?
Thanks so much! See if this link will help you. Thanks again and good luck on your project www.permachink.com/general/find-a-contractor
Thanks so much! See if this link will help you. Thanks again and good luck on your project www.permachink.com/general/find-a-contractor
Thanks for what you do. I'm also in S/W VA. Bedford, and have a 2 story log home built in the 80s. I have the Carpenter Bee problem. Lots of bee holes and wood pecker holes. What produce do you use to make repairs so that it blends in and looks good? By the way I found Bifen XTS. Mix and use a pump up sprayer. Spray in the hole, they crawl out and die. And the hole never repopulate. Now I have to fix the holes. Please help.
Cool deal, I'm near Galax. For Carpenter Bee holes, I use a stainable wood filler or log caulk that matches the stain. Perma Chink has a great line of products. Good luck on your project 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe!
@@TheSawDustDude Could you share the brand of stainable wood filler. Perma Chink is having supply issues. Can't get Check Mate in any color.
Thanks
@@CowboyKevsvids I use MinWax Stainable wood filler. If you have to fill a deep hole, it may take several steps to get it built out. It stains out well too.
@@TheSawDustDude Thanks
Can you use it inside the house? Not the pressure washer but the cleaner?
Yes, you can use Log Wash for the inside of the logs too. One bucket of cleaner and another with clean water. Good luck with the project. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
I am renovating a log house in Northern California. The logs are redwood. Does it matter what I use to clean/treat the wood?
Wow, great questions. I've never done a Redwood log home just pine and western cedar. However, I would recommend the Perma Chink Log Wash since you are really washing the stain on the logs (never use bleach or bleach based product). To be safe, I would call Perma Chink about their Log Wash or their Cedar Wash to see which would be best. 1-800-548-3554. Let me know how it goes! Thanks for watching!
You mentioned caulking butt joints with log siding. Is chinking necessary with log siding? Just sanded down my garage. It has a vapor barrier behind the log siding.. Using log wash, caulk butt joints/nail holes, and then stain. Haven't picked a stain yet. Looking st PPG products.
@@hwkfans go to Perma chink website read details on Caulk over chinking. Without seeing it, I would say log caulk would be your best route. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Sorry if i missed it, but how old is this house? I would love a log home but i'm wondering if it's worth the maintenance.
Eric, thanks for asking. This house was not built well and NEVER maintained. Like anything, especially Log Homes, you have to stay on top of things, regular maintenance schedule. If you have any specific questions, please feel free to send me an email Todd@ontrackrepairs.com. Semper Fi
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