The Secret to Sharper Knives
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- In this video, Tom talks through how the angle you sharpen your knives dramatically impacts their sharpness. He also gives specific angles for different types of knives.
Remember, the perfect angle for your knives and the way you use them might be different, so feel free to ask for further clarification in the comments, or go ahead and experiment with different angles and let us know your results!
Guided Sharpeners:
Edge Pro Professional: www.sharpening...
Tormek T-1: www.sharpening...
Work Sharp Precision Adjust Professional: www.sharpening...
Handy accessories for accurate hand sharpening:
Angle Guide Set: www.sharpening...
Angle Cube: www.sharpening...
Nice video, thank you.
A chart of the angles & their best applications would've been a nice addition.
You might consider adding that to the packaging sent w/ orders.
My purchases would have been even better w/ such a chart.
GREAT info and explained well.
Glad it was helpful!
Informative no fluf it is much appreciated. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
For chef knives I use 7-10 degrees and finish with a 15 degree microbevel. As long as you cut without impact and don't touch bones this is enough to hold and an edge on pretty much any knife I own even those with soft steel. Cutting capacity is greatly improved comparing with a thick 15-20 degree bevel.
Great point, micro bevels and thickness behind the edge are topics we didn't really touch on here. Thanks for bringing it up.
You forget asymmetrical sharpening.
Very informative, thank you for your beautiful presentation and passion fo the topic.
Glad you found it useful!
Superb presentation
Thanks!
Great tutorial indeed! Thank you very much Tom! Cheers🍀
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent summation of sharpening considerations.
Thanks!
What is the best angle for fillet knives? Good informative video.
Thank you for the good info video
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, I was wondering what angles were best for a pocket knife.
Use our numbers as a guide, but what works best for your pocket knife and how you use it might be quite different. I've got quite a few different pocket knives and they've mostly each got their own angle.
Somewhere between 18-22 is a great edge angle for EDC pocket knives.
good piece of info 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Really nice video Tom.
As a side note, I remember you made a video sometimes back about a Tormek axe sharpening jig you used to sharpen a carving axe at 15 dps... If a carving axe at 15 dps holds up just fine carving wood, I really question the relevancy to sharpen just about any knife at any higher angle than that (15 dps)...
It has become widely accepted to sharpen knives at 20 dps and I just don't get it... What are people cutting to justify such heavy edges?
Thanks! With regards to high knife angles, I think there's a couple reasons for it. One is the huge range in quality for knife steels. I can pick up a kitchen knife for a couple of bucks at the grocery store. The steel and the heat treatment is not going to be top-notch, and 20dps is less likely to fail during regular use. Another possible reason is how a lot of knives are treated, especially kitchen knives. They get tossed into drawers, left in the sink, used to open packages. A lot of factory edges are also pretty high, around 20dps, probably so customers misusing their knives don't immediately wreak the edge. Lowering the angle is always going to be more work than matching the existing angle, so a lot folks will just stay at the original angle, even though their knife could hold a lower angle.
@SharpeningSupplies
Thanks a lot for replying and for your explanation; you mentioned some very valid points.
alright out of curiousity, whats the biggest blades you guys have put in a worksharp prescision adjust? that shot of the machete in there cracked me up
I do my 8" chef knife and it sucks, the clamp and really whole assembly is not rigid enough for the extra leverage from being so far from the center, even with the lightest pressure on the stones.
30 cm golok, type " kopak rawing "
@billdickson871 Is that on the Professional Precision Adjust or the original Precision Adjust?
@@SharpeningSupplies original
Even with the Professional Precision Adjust, the systems clamp is terrible with kitchen knives, that weigh 6 ounces or more and have a 2mm and under spine. The clamp is on the struggle bus with heavy(6 oz isn’t even heavy) thin knives.
I had two systems of the holy grail 1st production run made in the US, and both clamps did the same behavior.
Meanwhile NOBODY is talking about the Mediocre clamp. 😐
Six degrees: surgical scalpels, single use
Eight degrees: razors
Ten degrees: tuna shavings for sushi, similar fancy work
Twelve degrees: fine fish filleting and other delicate meats
Fifteen degrees: most red meat secondary butchery/trimming
Fifteen to twenty-two degrees: most vegetable slicing, heavy butchery
Twenty-five to thirty degrees: cleavers and rough chopping
Thirty to forty-five degrees: hatchets, general axes, and splitting mauls.
Vegetable slicing: chosen angle is for longer edge retention when used by relatively unskilled or careless workers.
Total, or degrees per side?
@@SharpeningSupplies sorry, yes, sharpening angle, so per side.
Well done,thank you
Glad you liked it.
Great information. Do you guys have a chart somewhere on your website with this information?
Here you go: www.sharpeningsupplies.com/blogs/articles/tips-for-selecting-the-right-bevel-angle
What an amazing video!
Glad you think so!
I know that convex grinds are generally going to be more durable and less sharp, but what do you think of them for a folder or fixed blade?
Technically, there's no reason why a convex should be less sharp than other grinds, just depends on how thin you make it. I have a Fallkniven F1 I really like, so I'm certainly not against convex grinds. Keeping them sharp isn't difficult with a strop, but getting them sharp from blunt is best done on a belt. The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite is a nice option for that.
@@SharpeningSupplies: Thanks! I’m actually trying to convert a Spyderco Delica to convex using the sandpaper and mousepad method. I’ve got it decently sharp, but so far nowhere near how sharp I could get it on stones as a V edge. I’ll keep working at it.
Lower bevels around 17 -19 degrees per side work great for me 25 is not really needed in a small pocket knife . Some diamond compound , a ceramic rod and a strop will keep it sharp sharp sharp 👏🦅✌️
Very cool. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
I have a couple of older Old Hickory 11" Butcher Knives, a Woodsman 4" fixed blade, a standard 11 function pocket knife, and a cutlery tool roll that's only factory sharp. Plus The Boss Straight Razor. I'm definitely not good at hand sharpening and honing. What (hopefully portable) guided sharpener/sharpener set should I get that's not too expensive?
Beyond that I have a Gansfors Bruk Forest axe that I grabbed at a second hand store, a Guardian chopping machete that's roughed in and needs finishing at a discounted price (they changed steels), 3 grass machetes, and a Fro, all in need of sharpening. The splitting maul probably only needs touching up. I understand they all have different sharpening angles?
For such a wide range of knives and tools, honestly, whetstones are the most versatile. But if they don't interest you, the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Pro is the cheapest option that will handle all the knives. The Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite is cheaper still, and includes a carry-case, but might not be able to sharpen your pocket knife and definitely won't do the straight razor.
The tools would all have different angles. Gransfors Forest Axes typically have a convex grind on them, and you can go pretty low with the sharpening angle, depending on the work you're doing. I'd start the chopping machete at 22 degrees and see how that works. The grass machetes could go lower if they are just for grass and not woody plants. In my experience, a froe doesn't need much of an edge to it, I'd go 25 degrees to avoid having to repair any damage. Once it's in the wood, the edge isn't doing anything. Same with the maul, I'd go 25 degrees, but I'd make sure the edge is sharp, as that can help with starting the split. The Work Sharp Ken Onion Elite would work on all your tools, plus the knives, but it's an electric sharpener, not sure how that fits into your portability criteria.
Feel free to ask more questions here, or give us a call (1-800-351-8234) if you want more help picking a sharpening system.
@@SharpeningSupplies, Thanks for the initial info, I'll look into the Work Sharps you mentioned. I have some wet stones and a small diamond thingy. One of the stones has a groove on the long side and a couple of short V notches in it. I just can't hold the work pieces steady enough to get them sharp.
My sister's maul is going to need a grinding wheel to start with. It's bad. The heel is flattened over 1/8th inch at least 2" long. What grits should I use to start with before finishing with the stones?
I want to put a shoulder guard on my axe and maul handles. What would you suggest for my inexperience in that area?
Who sells decent tool handles for replacements and backups? I have some vintage and antique heads I've gotten from yard sales in need of handles, and one wide blade in good shape I found metal detecting.
Great info, I'm using a Tormek 8 so V handy. I have subscribed
Tormek's jigs let you get really accurate angles. Have fun playing around with it!
The tightening nuts on your stone holder Imho are backwards. Study how it's made, and you will see the cone angle on the one side is made to harmonize and marry the steel washer. The way the manufacturer sends these out, the adjusting knob pushes against the rubber and floats above the washer that does nothing because the adjust mechanism is backwards. Try turning those around, and see how much different it is, better it is.
What do you consider the best angle would be on a Filet Knife?
Depends on how gentle you are with it. If you're avoiding bone, 15 degrees would give you a nice slicing ability. If it's a filet knife you also take out while you're fishing and use it for odd jobs like cutting fishing line, a more robust angle (18-20 degrees) might suit you better.
Hi, I have been in the meat trade for 30 years what angle would you recommend for boneing meat out.
Take this advice with a grain of salt since I don't have 30 years of experience in the meat trade! I'd start with a 22-degree angle for boning meat in a commercial setting. I'm assuming a knife with a slightly softer steel so it's quick and easy to resharpen, and I'm picking a slightly higher angle so it's not getting damaged when the edge hits bone. If the knife doesn't get damaged during use, I might drop it down to 20 degrees the next time I sharpen it. You could keep dropping the angle with each resharpening for better slicing, but lowering the angle takes more time than just resharpening, and eventually, a low enough angle would start taking damage. Fortunately raising the angle is a much quicker process.
When cutting high density fruits & vegetables; blade thickness behind the cutting is far more important than apex angle.
With thin knife blades 0.006" or less behind the cutting edge, my testing reveals no significant difference in power requirements between 15º & 45º in terms of apex angle.
Interesting stuff. Thinning blades is perhaps a little outside the scope of this video. Beyond kitchen knives it's not a common practice, and perhaps a little more involved than most beginners are willing to do. Certainly, we should cover this in a more advanced kitchen knife video. Thanks for bringing it up.
I think this is the main reason many people prefer Japanese knives. Even when duller, a thin blade will still perform relatively well in a lot of cutting tasks.
Increased wedging.... Width ( ) & Speed ( ) equal increased power input requirements.
Increased force/power requirements ultimately make the knife feel duller.
A knife blade thinned behind the cutting edge has more to do with perceived performance, than apex angle grind when cutting high density fruits & vegetables.
Thinning the knife blade about 0.005" (the thickness of a piece of paper) will significantly reduce the perceived performance of a knife. @@thorwaldjohanson2526
I use 17 on my opinel carbon EDC
Nice!
Angle isn't enough, geometry includes shape. I put a slight convex to most of my knives. That and removing the steel of a facotry edge,with 2 to 3 full slharpening sessions, is what I call a ready knife for use. IMHO all new factory made knives,need a similar treatment. before you use them.
That's why when I see someone complain about the sharpness of his new knife, I know he doesn't know much about knives. Even people who call themselevs knife experts on RUclips, unfortunately, are on that level, of really low knowledge on the subject.
Great point. We didn't go into different grinds at all. Bit of an oversight. Thanks for pointing that out.
Hey you guys .iv still got my 10inch hard arkansas stone...and my 8 inch translucent.
The knives I've been using don't need diamonds .I keep in practice with slighly softer steel by hand and can easily pass the standing paper cutting telephone soft directory type paper
That's awesome. What I want to know is where are you getting telephone directories in 2024?
15-18 degrees - Vegetable Knife
22-30 degrees - Meat Knife
Per side?! No.
Time I watch video 1035 am 1/28 /2024 I have a old buck knife about 4 inch in length the tip is broken, is there a fix
Broken tips are a fairly common issue with a relatively simple fix. I've only restored the tips on kitchen knives, never a clip point, which I assume your Buck is. The principle is the same. You want to grind down the spine to create a new tip. You'll need a wheel or the round end of a belt sander to maintain that clip-point curve. If anyone else reading this has a different method, feel free to share.
Buck might replace the blade for free if you don't mind getting rid of the old blade
Contact them
Life time warranty on Buck knifes
@5:20 ish what worksharp is that?
it’s the new worksharp precision adjust. worksharp made a new version of their older more budget fixed angle sharpening system and released it around november of 2023. the older cheaper one works really well (i have one) but the new one definitely seems quite a bit better for the $300 asking price
You claim the “Perfect Angle for every task” then sub-divide general blade types into degree ranges? For instance, there’s a BIG difference between 15 degrees and 18 degrees (in your pocket knife range) so is 15 perfect, 16, 17 or 18 and for what task? I’ve been perfecting my sharpening skills and testing various blade steels in this range for 20 years but haven’t stumbled upon the “perfect angle” yet.
You tackled a big subject but left many, many questions unanswered..
You're right, perhaps I misspoke with "tasks" to then focus on knife types. I was hoping to get across the message that the "perfect angle" will exist within a range but depends on different factors. We're working on more videos that go a little more in-depth on individual tools, with the idea that this video would be a starting point for people without your 20 years of experience. Thanks for the comment, It's great to get feedback on how to improve our videos.
The never-wrong angle is 20 degrees per side, in my mind.
It's a great starting point.
I don't believe there is a perfect angle , after 40 yrs experience in the meat industry , grinding , stoning and stealing my knives , I found the angle unique to me , as we all sharpen a blade different , my knife would slice through pig flesh like a hot knife through butter , with just the odd touch up on a smooth steal .
Totally agree. Different knives need different angles. Even the same kind of knife put to different uses will benefit from a little time finding the right angle for it.
I hope you pay for your knives before they require steeling*. And you do not put spaces in front of a punctuation mark,* only after. Otherwise totally agreed.
@@einundsiebenziger5488Ze grammar Nazis are out, beware!
@@einundsiebenziger5488Just a passive observer here who’s genuinely curious, what do you get out of this? Like when you correct people online for a single typo, on a sentence that 99% of people don’t care about…how does that make you feel? Smart? Like a genius? Like a real live big boy? Go fuck yourself, no one asked for your proof read, grammar overlord.
-Sincerely, the world.