Query. If I were to die tomorrow, I would take my PFM V with me to the pearly gates. But if, however, I was not headed for heaven I would have to carefully consider which pen to choose. Of course, it couldn't be a metal pen. Too hot to hold. And plastic? Consider the melting point. Probably my Jinhao 9056 wooden pen. - but I worry about the plastic feed. So, from an engineering standpoint, and considering my destination. - which pen would you choose? Time is of the essence. Please reply posthaste.
Well the ink would dry up super quick so I don't think any pens would really work well. To attack that problem here is my thinking. You could create an internal ink chamber that has an insulating air gap with the outer body so as to minimize the ink from warming up. If you're worrying about an ABS feed melting, it will be too hot for you to survive. But you could make a from titanium with a treatment to increase its surface energy and promote ink flow. Then you'd want to make the body out of a low thermally conductive material so it doesn't get too hot. Fiberglass would actually be a good candidate and even a glass pen. I've seen glass pens but then you worry about dropping. So I think fiberglass would be the way to go since it also has a low coefficient of thermal expansion and you wouldn't have to worry about parts expanding and interfering with fitment. That's how I would attack the problem.
@@DoodlebudLeave it to an engineer! 😂 I say that as the daughter of an aerospace engineer who was always designing and redesigning outside of his lane. Good on ya, DB!
I heard Parker 51's were designed to write in regular and reverse. They were designed so you could use it normally (medium nib) for normal writing, and with a fine nib in reverse for accounts. The Accounts needed the fine point for filling in the large 6 column ledgers that accountants used to use when doing the books. ... That's what I heard anyway. 🙂
You're an inspiration (or maybe danger!) to all of us who've been dipping our toes in nib tweaks! In my book it's inspirational! On the ink front, I thought I'd like Apache Sunset but for my eyes at least I haven't yet found a single orange/yellow ink saturated enough that I can easily read it so personally I avoid them nowadays.
Try some: Birmingham Pens Monarch (orange) I have yet to find a yellow that truly satisfies me but Rohrer & Klingner Helianthus is getting pretty close
Bit late to the party but a reverse architect is honestly my go to for every day. A nice fine line for regular writing and an architect for underlining or writing headlines. Also, one way to thin out a nib is by taking off material from the back side, at an angle. Like you do when grinding a reverse architect. So the side opposite of the architect will always become thinner. That's why it makes a lot of sense to do this on a broad. You have some more real estate and if you need the regular line to be even thinner, just take the architect down some more. On a medium or fine you don't have a lot of room to play and have to go with what you get after grinding the architect. And sometimes, that is just too thin. Also, when shaping down the sides, do yourself a favor and round them in on the stone, instead of putting in just a flat. Smoothing out those sharp corners from the flat, especially if you went really thin for the down stroke, is an absolute pain. You should be able to see that on a nibmeisters architect. It's never just a flat. But maybe you did that and I just didn't catch it 😄
Love your precision on everything you show! And your camera work is ne plus ultra!! Best camera work I’ve ever had the pleasure of watching!! You are my favorite RUclips channel! Thank you for sharing your skills! PS-thanks for posting links to the tools you use!
Interesting video. I don’t use reverse writing unless the pen is a hard starter. Sometimes reverse writing will kickstart the pen into action. Sometimes……. Love the architect grind on your Schon Design. I only have one architect grind the Estie Scribe. For really big bold writing a fude nib will do the job. Great video and thank you. D
I do use the reverse side of some of my pens! I have a jinhao that I only use for my doodles and other art since the reverse side of that nib is super super fine
How about creating another moniker called DoodleGrind? You did a great job with that nib. I do not write with the nib reversed because it is such an uncomfortable feeling at times.
I think I've seen some nib grinders out there post some pics of combo grinds like this so don't think I can really lay claim ;) Thinking about it now, I probably should have looked for some pics as reference before I got started. However that's just not my style LOL. I typically just like to Give'r
I always, always, love when you put out a nib grind vod. I am so very interested in nib grinding. I have had very little success on my end. I do not have a whet stone yet. Only a set of pads. And I do not seem to have much luck. I even had serious problems just trying to smooth a couple of nibs as well. I took my time, used a light touch, and checked often. Only to, out of nowhere, have completely ground off the tip of the nib completely. 😣 It was the second one I worked on. It was already a problem ( the entire nib) and it had very little tipping at all. In fact, the maker told me that if I wanted to try it , to do exactly that with the nib. Grind it. That I may like it a lot. And would get the chance to grind a nib. Well, that is exactly what happened. But not on purpose. The second one I totally scrapped was even more upsetting. I literally used a 12,0000 grit and a micro mesh to work in it. I was so very careful. I seriously think the tipping popped off because everything was fine and I had only worked on the 12,000 for a few seconds of light swipe and checked it. Then to the micro mesh. It was ok. But the second time to the 12,000, because it still had a lot of feedback, I felt something change. I immediately checked it and the tipping was fully gone and I was into the metal. Oh damn. That was painful I tell ya. I completely lost heart over that one. My want to learn this is overpowering but I need to change something that I’m apparently doing very wrong. When my need fully comes back I will try, try, again. But I will not work on anything that will crush me if I were to ruin it for a very long time, if ever, to be honest. I think I need to get a stone to work with. I find the block grits to be too much for some reason. I also think I need to get something better to magnify with as well. I have a 40 X Loupe yet I can barely see the nib tip and can only seem to see it with much difficulty for some reason. Yet when people on YT use a loupe to put up to their camera lens it looks gigantic. Idk what the problem is. With whatever you use I can see it really great as well. But not with a 40 X loupe irl for some reason. I could watch nib grinding for hours on end. I don’t find anyone on YT doing so except you. I think there was one I found a long while back. But they did it from far away so it was really useless to be fair. There is a niche to be filled here. There really is. Take care.
Lovely job! 👏I didn't think I'd like architect nibs until -- inspired by your old video --- I bought a Bobby Architect Nib...and I love it. As for reverse writing, it was never important to me (kind of like how I don't care what the *inside* of a t-shirt looks like lol)
The architect nib is pretty unique for sure. Not my fav for cursive but great for printing. My son constantly wears his shirts inside out LOL. Maybe they should put print on the inside of kids shirts saying "If you can read this, your shirt is inside out" 😆
@@Doodlebud LOL! I remember Bill Murray's character in "Lost in Translation" (one of my favourite films) deliberately wearing his t-shirt inside out to look cool(er) so I applaud your son's dress sense 👍As for architect nibs... Yes, I agree with you --- I don't enjoy using them for cursive writing very much ... but for printing ... OMG they are so fun! 😃
I have tried grinding nibs but i tried it with nibs that were scratchy, i can never try this with a pen that writes really well. So i appreciate what you do and you did it well.
Just did an architect grind on a broad nib from a TWSBI Eco. Absolutely amazing. I used a 240 grit stone to get started because the 1,000 just wasnt making enough progress. Finished with 12,000 and then 1 and 0.3 micron. Thanks for the inspiration 👌
Sounds like it worked out well 👍. I did an interview with a Nibmeister (Josh Lax) recently if you haven't watched it. He really gets into some good detail that helps when it comes to working on nibs
@@Doodlebud Okay, just did my second Architect grind. This time on a in a Pilot Vanishing Point. I had a big break from fountain pens and being able to grind my own nibs has me back 110%. Thanks again for giving us the confidence in ourselves to grind and not send off to someone overseas for $100+
@@Doodlebud read my mind, I have a 2x72" setup in the garage and was thinking I could make quick work of nibs with a leather belt and some stropping compound. Bought some spare TWBSI nibs to test it out. Probably the lamest thing to ever touch a 2x72" - LOL
I have teeny writing and prefer extra fine nibs, although the Japanese fines also suit my needs. That being said, I have purchased several pens early in my pen journey that are too thick and juicy for my writing style ( although I love them for their esthetics). I generally use then as reverse writers and they work reasonably well. One is a Peter Pen, and another the TWSBI Draco for example. Otherwise the pens were rather unusable. I only fell down the fountain pen rabbit hole 3 years ago so I haven't had the courage to start swapping nibs yet, which I understand is not feasible on all pens. Great video.
I did this to my Kaweco Supra, starting with a broad nib. I think the reduction in size ist inevitable, I also ended up reducing the broad to a much smaller front side. I would say in between F and M. I'm very happy with the result. As for the tools: I used Nail polishing files... Available everythere, really cheap aaand: They do the job just fine. I ended up with mirror-polish on both sides, better than the factory grind!
I always try my nibs by writing on the opposite side. I think I started this when I purchased a Parker 180 that was intentionally made to write, in my case, Medium and Extra Fine. So, I always look for this feature. I am glad you did this video. More nib and pen manufacturers should consider having this feature, regularly.
I use pilot varsities in red for marking up prints in the shop. I happened to end up with a medium, so I can dig in a little to get a bit bolder line, and I can flip it over to smush comments into smaller spaces when reviewing drawings. It is pretty touchy about reverse writing; it is scratchy (but not tear the paper scratchy if you’re careful), but it just dies after a while - dries up really fast when it’s upside down.
I always check out every pen and nib for reverse writing. you ar going to laugh but i give the labitou 6051 ef a great grade for small writing and even better reverse writing. another pen I have suggested to you before, the jingo 166 is a fantastic reverse writer. My favorite gold nib reverse writer is the Sailor ef nib on 1911 standard. All these recommendations are based on when I like to write really tiny, smaller than Charlotte Bronte's handwriting
I'm a architect and use exclusively fountain pens, even for sketching and all my pens are used in normal and reverse. No special grind only for removing some scratchiness eventually, but no architect nib on any as I don't use them for finished drawings (that's what AutoCAD is for) but for sketching and writings. A reverse writing is a must on my pens and all work fine. Even my MontBlanc 149 writes well in reverse without any work on her and have been using her for over 25 years now
I just grind the nib on my Esterbrook Raven (push piston) because that nib is coated. On the tip it got shipped and it felt scratchy.... so I decided to grind it my self using the button of a coffee cup. It resulted in a grind that have thin down strokes and a bit of thick sideway strokes. I was berry concerned about the upstroke in 45 degree been scratchy, dealt with it and finish with a grind that is finer than the original fine on the nib and now the lines have variations on them.
I made a stacked Lamy nib and I smoothed out the reverse side as I usually do with the nibs I make but then I realized a Safari isn't really made to be held in reverse lol. I guess if you put it in a lamy with a more standard grip it would work out
1. You do good work and explain it well. Thanks for the video. 2. I use reverse "writing" all the time when I draw. Sometimes it lets me avoid filling another pen with the same ink. No special grinds, I just want a thinner line. Maybe I'll start recording which nibs are good/bad in reverse. 3. The only fountain pen writing I do is book annotations; currently I exclusively do this in reverse, to get the thinnest, driest line possible. 4. BTW archnibs are useless for drawing, as I learned for only $40.
Inspirational! I have enough Jinhao nibs to have a go myself. Pretty sure I would have put up with the nib on the Lamy Aion. Glad that worked out. I think there's enough stub nibs in the world ... manufacturers could tool up and produce architect grinds for a year! As for reverse writing, not something I expect to work.
Fascinating (but scary) process. Having found, in the Lamy Left Handed nib, something which suits me very well, I am wondering how I can get other nibs similarly adapted. Not sure it's possible with a 'normal' nib as a base... 🤔
I bought the LH nib, but didn't care for it. I'm a lefty underwriter, but it's made for sidewriters. It's just a Medium rround nib with a slight oblique grind. It's something you should be able to do yourself. Start with a cheap M or B nib a (or even a Pilot Varsity) to try it out on to get your technique. Doodlebud goes harder than most nib grinders by using the knife block for the initial grind. I use a 32µm glass polishing pad for major work and it takes off material surprisingly fast. I definitely ruined my first attempt, but that's why I bought a $2 wing sung.
@@evanbasnaw Thanks for the advice. I may give it a go. I'm an underwriter, too, but formerly a sidewriter, which might explain the difference between us.
Thanks for the video, you inspired me and I finally started playing with nib grinding. Right now trying my hand on a Jinhao Centennial Fine to make it a cursive italic. I suppose like you I need to practice and practice and practice but this is really fun. I received a 2nd hand 149 today in Medium nib, which is great but I'm more like a Japanese fine guy or oblique so I'm probably gonna try to grind it as an OM, but before I got mess up gold nibs I need to work on steel to get more comfortable. In any case thanks for sharing your journey and helping starting mine!
My MB 149 was the second pen I did a grind on LOL. I suppose I should have done several test nibs before but that's just not my style. Definitely give many nibs a go first before trying out the 149. A replacement nib is espesically expensive on those!
Holy moly, chapeau, a fantastic work done by you. A great video and explanation. It's an inspiration for me, however I don't have the proper microscope which makes things so much easier. My problem is an FPR Architect nib with many flaws. First, it didn't fit properly to any #6 nib/feed-screw-in-housing or into any of my plenty available #6 size FP's. Finally I managed to get it into a Kaigelu 356, even FPR FP's didn't take that FPR Architect nib. I needed a lot of force getting the nib and feed into the housing, it's looking strange as well, the nib tip sits 6 mm below the tip of the feed. Ink flow is ok, sofar no leaks, but that nib is writing much to fat (something like BB) when holding it at my normal writing angle of 70 to 65 degrees. At 90 to 80 degrees its behaving well, normal lines and thickness, but not suitable for me. Reverse writing is still a bit scratchy, even though i did a lot of careful grinding, buffering, polishing. I pressed the tines together many times, but nothing sofar helped getting this thing to write as I want. Do you have any idea what causes this ultra fat result? Is it the nib tip? The tines are really close now. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
@@Doodlebud Thanks for the info. I already feared that. So I'll go on with DIY grinding, buffering, hoping to make it better not worser as it is. FPR becomes more and more a no-go to me....
been waiting for this since the poll. i wish you made well-paced, longer form content with more of the details but i understand you've got an incentive to maximize views. i was really hoping this would be like 30 mins of talking about grinding & bumping & grinding. Etc.
It's not really about maximizing views. This was the first time I ever attempted this type of grind and had no idea how it would turn out. So it's got enough info to follow the process if someone wants to give it a try. But it would be a bit irresponsible for me to give super detailed "how to" when I'm literally just winging it and not experienced at doing it LOL. Hope that makes sense 🤪
@@Doodlebud I totally understand. Forget that some would take the tutorial aspect too seriously and then you'd either feel bad or be blamed for someone playing with their pens. not worth the liability. i just love the sound of nib on stone or mesh and hearing how you're planning to make it work
I like writing with very EF nibs. Most nibs are not EF enough even being called EF so if a pen doesn't reverse write from the box, I smooth it to do it. I mostly write in reverse mode. The only custom grinds I have are stubs from bad quality chinese nibs I broke or came broken.
Try reverse writing with a Faber Castell! It's my pick for reverse writing. I keep an everyday (less expensive) pen inked with red in a Medium... and I can flip it for a much thinner line - surprisingly smooth and enjoyable when reverse writing
I ground a Jinhao 35 to needle point (about xxxf or even finer). This is for training my light hands for spencerian. It will not work of coated paper like copy paper. The rest is not problem.
Looking the way you hold the pen, it is more suitable to you an italic or a stub, specially stub cause you really press the nib so stub will be more consistente. The choice of reverse in architect is a good idea. In reality medium nib should be used at reverse side with extra fine in the regular side to take adavantage of some nib flexiness. Flex nibs make more sense for fine and extra fine nibs, so it should use the regular side to use the flexiness of the nib. The reverse side could use a medium or broad. This kind of mixing make the nib very practical for regular use, specially for school time: the titles are bigger; the regular writing is fine and precise. Personally I do not like architect nibs. Seens they are very suitable for asian scripts. Hebrew would take advantage of a architect grind. But, nothing like an good italic handwringting with an italic or stub nib.
@@Doodlebud oblique nibs has more sense if we have flex otherwise is just a fact of roll the pen in the hand to adjust the position of contact. Kurrent schrift has an interesting use of left obliquiness but, like I sai, only make real sense at flexible nibs.
Awesome video! I was a banker thus was not able to use my fountain pens for decades. In the industry I was able to continue my education. That included the I Ching, a book Carl Jung used for his experiences in active imagination. The practice includes journaling, drawing, and character creation. The old characters in the book(Oracle bone scripts) are made with Fude(means brush) they use marker type pens because the Fude fountain pens are hit and miss. They are used since the need of multiple line thicknesses - thus angle and reverse writing is essential. I will look into architect nibs for this same need. Thanks again. *I do use reverse writing. I have an extra fine nib from Twsbi that is a fine/med but ef on the reverse. weird but handy. I use mostly Japanese fine and/or Fude nibs in the majority of my pens. That does range from EF in some to Fine in others. I do use a medium(Eastern) nib for cursive when a thicker line is needed but not a fit for a fude nib...
@@sjuvanet I found an old copy of a Legge translation when i was 13 yrs old - many decades ago. I was a banker over a decade ago, and was for many of those aforementioned decades. Cheers to you as well.
@@toomdog We were still using carbon paper and they did not feel it could go thru - and the inks mainly. They had to be permanent and archival, but not Iron Gall based... Not completely sure on all the reason - I was told photocopies and ink colour was also an issue.
Are there any nibs that are good starting points? I noticed that Narwhal nibs have huge amounts of tipping and thought that they might be a good starting point.
From what I've seen, most people start with broad nibs just because there's more to work with from any brand, unless they're trying to make an EF into a needlepoint. It's pretty easy to get pens that take the Jowo #6 nibs. I've made several pens using the Fountain Pen Revolution nib units. Those seem like good ones to try since they're a common item and the nibs are quite affordable.
I would not use FPR because many ppl have problems with their #5 and their #6 nibs and nib units to fit into many pens. So if you want a go I would buy one to see if it fits into any pen you need it to. I would suggest Jinhao nibs. They are very affordable and are pretty damn good all by themselves right out of the package. You can get them on Edsy I believe. Just go online and see who sells Jinhao # 6 nibs that are closer to you or are the best deal for you. Those fit most # 6 feeds and units. I believe you can buy packs of them as well. Or single nibs. You can’t go wrote with Jinhao nibs. Also you can get X159 or x X750 full pens for super cheap as a whole. The X 159 can be gotten for $3 and up. Same with the X750’s. And they are ,again, pretty nice pens and nibs for the price.
@@Soul_Watcher thanks. Yes, I have Jinhao x750 and x159. I think the x750 would be a better starting point -broader nib, better availability and fits other pens. I do like my x750 nib -great for sheening ink but a little stiff. It would be good to cut away the sides to soften the nib -no tip work needed! Cheaper and more fun than buying every nib grade for my Opus 88 (which is what I have done!) -the Jowo fine-flex is my favourite so far.
Query. If I were to die tomorrow, I would take my PFM V with me to the pearly gates. But if, however, I was not headed for heaven I would have to carefully consider which pen to choose. Of course, it couldn't be a metal pen. Too hot to hold. And plastic? Consider the melting point. Probably my Jinhao 9056 wooden pen. - but I worry about the plastic feed. So, from an engineering standpoint, and considering my destination. - which pen would you choose? Time is of the essence. Please reply posthaste.
Well the ink would dry up super quick so I don't think any pens would really work well. To attack that problem here is my thinking. You could create an internal ink chamber that has an insulating air gap with the outer body so as to minimize the ink from warming up. If you're worrying about an ABS feed melting, it will be too hot for you to survive. But you could make a from titanium with a treatment to increase its surface energy and promote ink flow. Then you'd want to make the body out of a low thermally conductive material so it doesn't get too hot. Fiberglass would actually be a good candidate and even a glass pen. I've seen glass pens but then you worry about dropping. So I think fiberglass would be the way to go since it also has a low coefficient of thermal expansion and you wouldn't have to worry about parts expanding and interfering with fitment. That's how I would attack the problem.
Hilarious post! I think Doodlebud missed your needs in eternal suffering.
@ not as easily as it would appear at first glance. Think tobacco pipe; a small wooden bowl in which you light a fire.
@@DoodlebudLeave it to an engineer! 😂 I say that as the daughter of an aerospace engineer who was always designing and redesigning outside of his lane. Good on ya, DB!
I heard Parker 51's were designed to write in regular and reverse. They were designed so you could use it normally (medium nib) for normal writing, and with a fine nib in reverse for accounts. The Accounts needed the fine point for filling in the large 6 column ledgers that accountants used to use when doing the books. ... That's what I heard anyway. 🙂
You're an inspiration (or maybe danger!) to all of us who've been dipping our toes in nib tweaks! In my book it's inspirational!
On the ink front, I thought I'd like Apache Sunset but for my eyes at least I haven't yet found a single orange/yellow ink saturated enough that I can easily read it so personally I avoid them nowadays.
Try some:
Birmingham Pens Monarch (orange)
I have yet to find a yellow that truly satisfies me but Rohrer & Klingner Helianthus is getting pretty close
Bit late to the party but a reverse architect is honestly my go to for every day. A nice fine line for regular writing and an architect for underlining or writing headlines. Also, one way to thin out a nib is by taking off material from the back side, at an angle. Like you do when grinding a reverse architect. So the side opposite of the architect will always become thinner. That's why it makes a lot of sense to do this on a broad. You have some more real estate and if you need the regular line to be even thinner, just take the architect down some more. On a medium or fine you don't have a lot of room to play and have to go with what you get after grinding the architect. And sometimes, that is just too thin.
Also, when shaping down the sides, do yourself a favor and round them in on the stone, instead of putting in just a flat. Smoothing out those sharp corners from the flat, especially if you went really thin for the down stroke, is an absolute pain. You should be able to see that on a nibmeisters architect. It's never just a flat. But maybe you did that and I just didn't catch it 😄
Love your precision on everything you show! And your camera work is ne plus ultra!! Best camera work I’ve ever had the pleasure of watching!! You are my favorite RUclips channel! Thank you for sharing your skills! PS-thanks for posting links to the tools you use!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear my videos are useful :)
Almost had a heart attack but my dog heard your voice and took a nap. Reassuring when my dog isn’t worried!
Interesting video. I don’t use reverse writing unless the pen is a hard starter. Sometimes reverse writing will kickstart the pen into action. Sometimes……. Love the architect grind on your Schon Design. I only have one architect grind the Estie Scribe. For really big bold writing a fude nib will do the job. Great video and thank you. D
I do use the reverse side of some of my pens! I have a jinhao that I only use for my doodles and other art since the reverse side of that nib is super super fine
How about creating another moniker called DoodleGrind? You did a great job with that nib. I do not write with the nib reversed because it is such an uncomfortable feeling at times.
I think I've seen some nib grinders out there post some pics of combo grinds like this so don't think I can really lay claim ;) Thinking about it now, I probably should have looked for some pics as reference before I got started. However that's just not my style LOL. I typically just like to Give'r
Wow wow wow wow WOW!! This is so inspiring and so helpful. Thanks a million!! :)
I always, always, love when you put out a nib grind vod. I am so very interested in nib grinding. I have had very little success on my end. I do not have a whet stone yet. Only a set of pads. And I do not seem to have much luck. I even had serious problems just trying to smooth a couple of nibs as well. I took my time, used a light touch, and checked often. Only to, out of nowhere, have completely ground off the tip of the nib completely. 😣 It was the second one I worked on.
It was already a problem ( the entire nib) and it had very little tipping at all. In fact, the maker told me that if I wanted to try it , to do exactly that with the nib. Grind it. That I may like it a lot. And would get the chance to grind a nib. Well, that is exactly what happened. But not on purpose.
The second one I totally scrapped was even more upsetting. I literally used a 12,0000 grit and a micro mesh to work in it. I was so very careful. I seriously think the tipping popped off because everything was fine and I had only worked on the 12,000 for a few seconds of light swipe and checked it. Then to the micro mesh. It was ok. But the second time to the 12,000, because it still had a lot of feedback, I felt something change. I immediately checked it and the tipping was fully gone and I was into the metal. Oh damn. That was painful I tell ya. I completely lost heart over that one.
My want to learn this is overpowering but I need to change something that I’m apparently doing very wrong. When my need fully comes back I will try, try, again. But I will not work on anything that will crush me if I were to ruin it for a very long time, if ever, to be honest.
I think I need to get a stone to work with. I find the block grits to be too much for some reason. I also think I need to get something better to magnify with as well. I have a 40 X Loupe yet I can barely see the nib tip and can only seem to see it with much difficulty for some reason. Yet when people on YT use a loupe to put up to their camera lens it looks gigantic. Idk what the problem is. With whatever you use I can see it really great as well. But not with a 40 X loupe irl for some reason.
I could watch nib grinding for hours on end. I don’t find anyone on YT doing so except you. I think there was one I found a long while back. But they did it from far away so it was really useless to be fair. There is a niche to be filled here. There really is.
Take care.
Beautiful. I didn't think I'd ever like the architect look, but now I see how nice it can be. Have a great week.
Osprey pens has some architect nibs for purchase you can check out
@@Doodlebud I'd rather make my own. I've turned my jinhao nibs into italic, and thanks to you, now I know how to shape one of these! 🙂
Hope it goes great
Lovely job! 👏I didn't think I'd like architect nibs until -- inspired by your old video --- I bought a Bobby Architect Nib...and I love it. As for reverse writing, it was never important to me (kind of like how I don't care what the *inside* of a t-shirt looks like lol)
The architect nib is pretty unique for sure. Not my fav for cursive but great for printing. My son constantly wears his shirts inside out LOL. Maybe they should put print on the inside of kids shirts saying "If you can read this, your shirt is inside out" 😆
@@Doodlebud LOL! I remember Bill Murray's character in "Lost in Translation" (one of my favourite films) deliberately wearing his t-shirt inside out to look cool(er) so I applaud your son's dress sense 👍As for architect nibs... Yes, I agree with you --- I don't enjoy using them for cursive writing very much ... but for printing ... OMG they are so fun! 😃
I have tried grinding nibs but i tried it with nibs that were scratchy, i can never try this with a pen that writes really well. So i appreciate what you do and you did it well.
Just did an architect grind on a broad nib from a TWSBI Eco. Absolutely amazing. I used a 240 grit stone to get started because the 1,000 just wasnt making enough progress. Finished with 12,000 and then 1 and 0.3 micron. Thanks for the inspiration 👌
Sounds like it worked out well 👍. I did an interview with a Nibmeister (Josh Lax) recently if you haven't watched it. He really gets into some good detail that helps when it comes to working on nibs
@@Doodlebud I haven't, I only just found your channel and slowly working through videos. Will have a watch 👍
@@Doodlebud Okay, just did my second Architect grind. This time on a in a Pilot Vanishing Point. I had a big break from fountain pens and being able to grind my own nibs has me back 110%. Thanks again for giving us the confidence in ourselves to grind and not send off to someone overseas for $100+
@@commonopportunist I just bought a Dremel so will be working on a setup and learning how to grind with those
@@Doodlebud read my mind, I have a 2x72" setup in the garage and was thinking I could make quick work of nibs with a leather belt and some stropping compound. Bought some spare TWBSI nibs to test it out. Probably the lamest thing to ever touch a 2x72" - LOL
I am really wanting an architect nib in my next pen. I prefer extra fine or fine so maybe I will attempt with one of my mediums. Thanks for the video!
I have teeny writing and prefer extra fine nibs, although the Japanese fines also suit my needs. That being said, I have purchased several pens early in my pen journey that are too thick and juicy for my writing style ( although I love them for their esthetics). I generally use then as reverse writers and they work reasonably well. One is a Peter Pen, and another the TWSBI Draco for example. Otherwise the pens were rather unusable. I only fell down the fountain pen rabbit hole 3 years ago so I haven't had the courage to start swapping nibs yet, which I understand is not feasible on all pens. Great video.
I really like the architect mod! I need to find a nibsmith now. Great job!
I did this to my Kaweco Supra, starting with a broad nib.
I think the reduction in size ist inevitable, I also ended up reducing the broad to a much smaller front side. I would say in between F and M.
I'm very happy with the result. As for the tools: I used Nail polishing files... Available everythere, really cheap aaand: They do the job just fine.
I ended up with mirror-polish on both sides, better than the factory grind!
Fun to modify nibs
I always try my nibs by writing on the opposite side. I think I started this when I purchased a Parker 180 that was intentionally made to write, in my case, Medium and Extra Fine. So, I always look for this feature. I am glad you did this video. More nib and pen manufacturers should consider having this feature, regularly.
Interesting, well done!
I use pilot varsities in red for marking up prints in the shop. I happened to end up with a medium, so I can dig in a little to get a bit bolder line, and I can flip it over to smush comments into smaller spaces when reviewing drawings. It is pretty touchy about reverse writing; it is scratchy (but not tear the paper scratchy if you’re careful), but it just dies after a while - dries up really fast when it’s upside down.
Enjoyable vid DB! I'm too nervous to try this with my existing pens, but I might try it with some bulk medium nibs. Looks like fun!
Yup you can pick up a 10 packs of nibs for like $1-$2 each and play around.
@@Doodlebud Where can you get these? I'm not finding anything this cheap. Thx :)
Very cool! Thanks for sharing this!
Thanks for watching
I always check out every pen and nib for reverse writing. you ar going to laugh but i give the labitou 6051 ef a great grade for small writing and even better reverse writing. another pen I have suggested to you before, the jingo 166 is a fantastic reverse writer. My favorite gold nib reverse writer is the Sailor ef nib on 1911 standard. All these recommendations are based on when I like to write really tiny, smaller than Charlotte Bronte's handwriting
I'm a architect and use exclusively fountain pens, even for sketching and all my pens are used in normal and reverse. No special grind only for removing some scratchiness eventually, but no architect nib on any as I don't use them for finished drawings (that's what AutoCAD is for) but for sketching and writings. A reverse writing is a must on my pens and all work fine. Even my MontBlanc 149 writes well in reverse without any work on her and have been using her for over 25 years now
I just grind the nib on my Esterbrook Raven (push piston) because that nib is coated. On the tip it got shipped and it felt scratchy.... so I decided to grind it my self using the button of a coffee cup. It resulted in a grind that have thin down strokes and a bit of thick sideway strokes. I was berry concerned about the upstroke in 45 degree been scratchy, dealt with it and finish with a grind that is finer than the original fine on the nib and now the lines have variations on them.
Yes, some Noodler's Ink need to be shaken up. Blue-black is another one that needs to be mixed before using. Once in a pen, they seem fine.
I use a Parker 180 to use on both sides. 😊
But then that is designed for that.
I made a stacked Lamy nib and I smoothed out the reverse side as I usually do with the nibs I make but then I realized a Safari isn't really made to be held in reverse lol. I guess if you put it in a lamy with a more standard grip it would work out
Oh cool a DIY stacked nib! What did you use to secure them together?
@@Doodlebud I use a spot welder. Most people use them for making big batteries
Spot welder is what I figure, lucky you have access to one!
Well done, DB! The reverse grind came out superb. I would have played off reducing the writing side as intentional though lol.
I'm just to honest LOL
Great video, and cool to see your set up with that awesome microscope. Very cool :)
1. You do good work and explain it well. Thanks for the video.
2. I use reverse "writing" all the time when I draw. Sometimes it lets me avoid filling another pen with the same ink. No special grinds, I just want a thinner line. Maybe I'll start recording which nibs are good/bad in reverse.
3. The only fountain pen writing I do is book annotations; currently I exclusively do this in reverse, to get the thinnest, driest line possible.
4. BTW archnibs are useless for drawing, as I learned for only $40.
4) I guess it depends on the type of drawing you do. When I do "engineery" type draws an architect nib comes in handy for some features
@@Doodlebud Maybe I better give it another try. If I can find it.
Inspirational! I have enough Jinhao nibs to have a go myself.
Pretty sure I would have put up with the nib on the Lamy Aion. Glad that worked out.
I think there's enough stub nibs in the world ... manufacturers could tool up and produce architect grinds for a year!
As for reverse writing, not something I expect to work.
Jinhao nibs are great to practice with :)
Fascinating (but scary) process. Having found, in the Lamy Left Handed nib, something which suits me very well, I am wondering how I can get other nibs similarly adapted. Not sure it's possible with a 'normal' nib as a base... 🤔
I bought the LH nib, but didn't care for it. I'm a lefty underwriter, but it's made for sidewriters. It's just a Medium rround nib with a slight oblique grind. It's something you should be able to do yourself. Start with a cheap M or B nib a (or even a Pilot Varsity) to try it out on to get your technique.
Doodlebud goes harder than most nib grinders by using the knife block for the initial grind. I use a 32µm glass polishing pad for major work and it takes off material surprisingly fast. I definitely ruined my first attempt, but that's why I bought a $2 wing sung.
@@evanbasnaw Thanks for the advice. I may give it a go. I'm an underwriter, too, but formerly a sidewriter, which might explain the difference between us.
Thanks for the video, you inspired me and I finally started playing with nib grinding. Right now trying my hand on a Jinhao Centennial Fine to make it a cursive italic. I suppose like you I need to practice and practice and practice but this is really fun. I received a 2nd hand 149 today in Medium nib, which is great but I'm more like a Japanese fine guy or oblique so I'm probably gonna try to grind it as an OM, but before I got mess up gold nibs I need to work on steel to get more comfortable. In any case thanks for sharing your journey and helping starting mine!
My MB 149 was the second pen I did a grind on LOL. I suppose I should have done several test nibs before but that's just not my style. Definitely give many nibs a go first before trying out the 149. A replacement nib is espesically expensive on those!
Holy moly, chapeau, a fantastic work done by you. A great video and explanation. It's an inspiration for me, however I don't have the proper microscope which makes things so much easier. My problem is an FPR Architect nib with many flaws. First, it didn't fit properly to any #6 nib/feed-screw-in-housing or into any of my plenty available #6 size FP's. Finally I managed to get it into a Kaigelu 356, even FPR FP's didn't take that FPR Architect nib. I needed a lot of force getting the nib and feed into the housing, it's looking strange as well, the nib tip sits 6 mm below the tip of the feed. Ink flow is ok, sofar no leaks, but that nib is writing much to fat (something like BB) when holding it at my normal writing angle of 70 to 65 degrees. At 90 to 80 degrees its behaving well, normal lines and thickness, but not suitable for me. Reverse writing is still a bit scratchy, even though i did a lot of careful grinding, buffering, polishing. I pressed the tines together many times, but nothing sofar helped getting this thing to write as I want. Do you have any idea what causes this ultra fat result? Is it the nib tip? The tines are really close now. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
I had someone complain of the same issue. Seems there's not much of a grind to it. They ended up following along & did a DIY to make it better
@@Doodlebud Thanks for the info. I already feared that. So I'll go on with DIY grinding, buffering, hoping to make it better not worser as it is. FPR becomes more and more a no-go to me....
been waiting for this since the poll. i wish you made well-paced, longer form content with more of the details but i understand you've got an incentive to maximize views. i was really hoping this would be like 30 mins of talking about grinding & bumping & grinding. Etc.
It's not really about maximizing views. This was the first time I ever attempted this type of grind and had no idea how it would turn out. So it's got enough info to follow the process if someone wants to give it a try. But it would be a bit irresponsible for me to give super detailed "how to" when I'm literally just winging it and not experienced at doing it LOL. Hope that makes sense 🤪
@@Doodlebud I totally understand. Forget that some would take the tutorial aspect too seriously and then you'd either feel bad or be blamed for someone playing with their pens. not worth the liability. i just love the sound of nib on stone or mesh and hearing how you're planning to make it work
You could always playback the fast forward parts at 25% speed to see it slower, but my voice over will also be at 25% LOL
I don’t use reverse writing with any of my pens. However, I really enjoyed watching you grind this nib.
I like writing with very EF nibs. Most nibs are not EF enough even being called EF so if a pen doesn't reverse write from the box, I smooth it to do it. I mostly write in reverse mode.
The only custom grinds I have are stubs from bad quality chinese nibs I broke or came broken.
Try reverse writing with a Faber Castell! It's my pick for reverse writing. I keep an everyday (less expensive) pen inked with red in a Medium... and I can flip it for a much thinner line - surprisingly smooth and enjoyable when reverse writing
Also, a talented nibmeister can nicely grind both sides of your nib - I am planning to try out one of these grinds later on!
What's the name of that colorful pen between your homo sapien and pelikan pen?
Here it is:
ruclips.net/video/GXsd1o-tXFY/видео.html
@@Doodlebud you the man! Just preordered one
Thanks!
I ground a Jinhao 35 to needle point (about xxxf or even finer). This is for training my light hands for spencerian. It will not work of coated paper like copy paper. The rest is not problem.
Looking the way you hold the pen, it is more suitable to you an italic or a stub, specially stub cause you really press the nib so stub will be more consistente.
The choice of reverse in architect is a good idea. In reality medium nib should be used at reverse side with extra fine in the regular side to take adavantage of some nib flexiness. Flex nibs make more sense for fine and extra fine nibs, so it should use the regular side to use the flexiness of the nib. The reverse side could use a medium or broad. This kind of mixing make the nib very practical for regular use, specially for school time: the titles are bigger; the regular writing is fine and precise.
Personally I do not like architect nibs. Seens they are very suitable for asian scripts. Hebrew would take advantage of a architect grind.
But, nothing like an good italic handwringting with an italic or stub nib.
Cursive italic is usually my favorite grind to do and use. Obliques are nice as well
@@Doodlebud oblique nibs has more sense if we have flex otherwise is just a fact of roll the pen in the hand to adjust the position of contact. Kurrent schrift has an interesting use of left obliquiness but, like I sai, only make real sense at flexible nibs.
Awesome video! I was a banker thus was not able to use my fountain pens for decades. In the industry I was able to continue my education. That included the I Ching, a book Carl Jung used for his experiences in active imagination. The practice includes journaling, drawing, and character creation. The old characters in the book(Oracle bone scripts) are made with Fude(means brush) they use marker type pens because the Fude fountain pens are hit and miss. They are used since the need of multiple line thicknesses - thus angle and reverse writing is essential. I will look into architect nibs for this same need. Thanks again. *I do use reverse writing. I have an extra fine nib from Twsbi that is a fine/med but ef on the reverse. weird but handy. I use mostly Japanese fine and/or Fude nibs in the majority of my pens. That does range from EF in some to Fine in others. I do use a medium(Eastern) nib for cursive when a thicker line is needed but not a fit for a fude nib...
fellow based fountain pen and brush enjoyer. when did you get into the I Ching? when you were a banker? or before?
@@sjuvanet I found an old copy of a Legge translation when i was 13 yrs old - many decades ago. I was a banker over a decade ago, and was for many of those aforementioned decades. Cheers to you as well.
I’m sorry if I’m being dense here, but why does being a banker preclude the use of fountain pens?
@@toomdog We were still using carbon paper and they did not feel it could go thru - and the inks mainly. They had to be permanent and archival, but not Iron Gall based... Not completely sure on all the reason - I was told photocopies and ink colour was also an issue.
Always use reverse writing to do newspaper crosswords where there isn't much space for lettering.
Nice job
I gave it a try & it sorta worked out
Are there any nibs that are good starting points? I noticed that Narwhal nibs have huge amounts of tipping and thought that they might be a good starting point.
From what I've seen, most people start with broad nibs just because there's more to work with from any brand, unless they're trying to make an EF into a needlepoint.
It's pretty easy to get pens that take the Jowo #6 nibs. I've made several pens using the Fountain Pen Revolution nib units. Those seem like good ones to try since they're a common item and the nibs are quite affordable.
I would not use FPR because many ppl have problems with their #5 and their #6 nibs and nib units to fit into many pens. So if you want a go I would buy one to see if it fits into any pen you need it to.
I would suggest Jinhao nibs. They are very affordable and are pretty damn good all by themselves right out of the package. You can get them on Edsy I believe. Just go online and see who sells Jinhao # 6 nibs that are closer to you or are the best deal for you. Those fit most # 6 feeds and units. I believe you can buy packs of them as well. Or single nibs. You can’t go wrote with Jinhao nibs.
Also you can get X159 or x X750 full pens for super cheap as a whole. The X 159 can be gotten for $3 and up. Same with the X750’s. And they are ,again, pretty nice pens and nibs for the price.
@@Soul_Watcher thanks. Yes, I have Jinhao x750 and x159. I think the x750 would be a better starting point -broader nib, better availability and fits other pens. I do like my x750 nib -great for sheening ink but a little stiff. It would be good to cut away the sides to soften the nib -no tip work needed! Cheaper and more fun than buying every nib grade for my Opus 88 (which is what I have done!) -the Jowo fine-flex is my favourite so far.
Unrelated question, but for your Faber-castell e-motion, is the nib a #6 or a #5 nib?
They are a #5 nib
BOOM
Do you offer nib repairs?
@@lionace1625 I don't but there are plenty of extremely talented Nibmeisters out there who do much better work than I do