It’s great that I came across this. My grandfather was a Hartford firefighter during 1930’s and could have worked on that engine or one similar. It obviously takes a lot of patience to restore an antique vehicle.
I would suggest getting a "Shake and Break" tool for those stuck screws. It basically works with an air chisel to vibrate the screw, frequently loosening. A tool of this type has long been popular with aircraft maintenance. I would also try soaking down the bolts with Kroil penetrant. It works for me where nothing else did. I've used it for almost 40 years, and wish I had it in the 60s!
Don't forget the WD 40 and thread lube for tapping. I like that Alvin product. Good job, so far. The 'chrome' is probably Nickel plate. Do replace all belts and hoses, no matter how original you wish to keep the truck.
A good trick I found for losening screws like that is a thin blunt end chisel and hammer make sure the blunt end of the chisel will fit all the way to the bottom of the slot in those screws then strike the chisel hard several times will break the screw loose. A screw driver with the handle removed will work good for that also. Im a 78 year old retired mechanic that came thru old school ways of learning things
A couple of ideas for removing those screws. Using your manual impact, place it all the way down so it won't try to turn the screw when you hit it. Then, wallow away on it to break the corrosion holding the threads together. Then reset it a to twist and try it again. You need to hold your torch on the screw longer and may have to repeat it several times. They also make a tool that goes in an air chisel with a screwdriver bit and a handle coming out the side of the bit. The idea is to use the air chisel to create vibration and the bit can be moved back and forth breaking the bond. Finally, and I've not tried this, use an electric impact set to impact only to break the bond. Hope these help.
Ya, had a smirk on when he started talking about tools and he doesn't even have a battery impact driver - the one tool I use daily at home & work! I was also wondering if the water pump seals didn't ruin spinning without water at the least. So glad he decided for the patina instead of painting. I wonder if all the plugs were firing, but with 3 per cylinder it's a bit redundant. As a rule, I like to use penetrants a day or 2 before removing anything. Saves you a lot of work.
Surprised you are using a pressure washer to clean the La France. I hope you are careful on the old beautiful stripping. Sounds sweet. "Kroil" is your best friend when removing old bolts, nuts and screws.
... Years ago we had a problem with a similar water pump leaking at the shaft because they used a felt washer as the seal. Years of lubing it and snugging the nut wore the shaft. Took the whole thing to a machine shop in Long Island and had a guy hog the housing for a late style ceramic seal. Been leak free for about 25 years now.
Yes, I too noticed you didn't use a drop of penetratating oil on those water neck screws. Why? Is it pointless when you are using heat in the first place?
Back in the early eighties my father and uncle owned a fire truck restoration shop for about 7 years in California and they redid crown coach American to France rebuilt new cabs totally went through the entire truck put new Cummins motors in them and got rid of the hall Scots get all the LA county fire department's trucks all the crown coaches Vallejo the company was called AGA fire apparatus love to see this old stuff restored
Here in Finland we have a "code word". We use it when opening rusty and tight nuts and scerev. The word is: "PERKELE". Regards Stig Österberg from Dalsbruk in Finland.
I,am in the UK i had a old Dodge with a messy cooling system i found a non toxic home heating flush liquid i used it for a week running around and then opened the drain cock on the radiator you should have seen the crap run out ....just a thought
Breaking the castings loose try adding lube first and cut the handles off several thin flat screwdrivers gently use them as wedges spaced around the edges keep tapping but not in sequence
The strips of cloth like seals at the hood to cowl overlap look like asbestos containing material. I would treat them as such until you confirm otherwise. Some rather simple methods can be used to prevent asbestos contamination of other material, like your lungs, until they are if needed replaced. I think you should find appropriate information available online.
I just put a screw driver firmly in the slot and use a hammer to give it a "love tap", works well most of the time if it didn't then she didn't love you The shock from the hammer smack loosens the years of rust & corrosion enough to loosen it up
Just a to help comment, the next time your removing bolts with a screwdriver up where the handle starts is a place like a hex nut. Now not all screwdrivers have it but most good ones do but find a wrench that fits it and use the wrench for a little more strength to loosen the bolt.
... I believe he said they were brass so you'd have to braze them and hope they don't snap. Personally, I feel a real torch could have put enough heat in there to do the job, but he still needs new hardware due to the odd thread.
I have lived in parts of the world where you could take broken parts like that, and get a re-caste part within a few days, but unless you were careful, even the crack would be reproduced, faithfully. Our world has not moved in all the correct directions.
It’s great that I came across this. My grandfather was a Hartford firefighter during 1930’s and could have worked on that engine or one similar. It obviously takes a lot of patience to restore an antique vehicle.
I would suggest getting a "Shake and Break" tool for those stuck screws. It basically works with an air chisel to vibrate the screw, frequently loosening. A tool of this type has long been popular with aircraft maintenance. I would also try soaking down the bolts with Kroil penetrant. It works for me where nothing else did. I've used it for almost 40 years, and wish I had it in the 60s!
Thanks for the lesson on measuring the scewa, never knew that
No grinder heat and pb blaster parts for that truck are almost ungetable and you should plug the spark plug holes
Don't forget the WD 40 and thread lube for tapping. I like that Alvin product. Good job, so far. The 'chrome' is probably Nickel plate. Do replace all belts and hoses, no matter how original you wish to keep the truck.
wouldn't it have been better to use a spray foam cleaner to lift off the years of grime, before using a less aggressive pressure washer setting.
A good trick I found for losening screws like that is a thin blunt end chisel and hammer make sure the blunt end of the chisel will fit all the way to the bottom of the slot in those screws then strike the chisel hard several times will break the screw loose. A screw driver with the handle removed will work good for that also. Im a 78 year old retired mechanic that came thru old school ways of learning things
PB Blaster & HEAT.....
A couple of ideas for removing those screws. Using your manual impact, place it all the way down so it won't try to turn the screw when you hit it. Then, wallow away on it to break the corrosion holding the threads together. Then reset it a to twist and try it again.
You need to hold your torch on the screw longer and may have to repeat it several times.
They also make a tool that goes in an air chisel with a screwdriver bit and a handle coming out the side of the bit. The idea is to use the air chisel to create vibration and the bit can be moved back and forth breaking the bond.
Finally, and I've not tried this, use an electric impact set to impact only to break the bond.
Hope these help.
Ya, had a smirk on when he started talking about tools and he doesn't even have a battery impact driver - the one tool I use daily at home & work! I was also wondering if the water pump seals didn't ruin spinning without water at the least. So glad he decided for the patina instead of painting. I wonder if all the plugs were firing, but with 3 per cylinder it's a bit redundant. As a rule, I like to use penetrants a day or 2 before removing anything. Saves you a lot of work.
Surprised you are using a pressure washer to clean the La France. I hope you are careful on the old beautiful stripping. Sounds sweet. "Kroil" is your best friend when removing old bolts, nuts and screws.
Maybe put something in those spark plug holes next time . Great machine 👍
Just found your channel. Liked. That is a very interesting engine. All my best.
Get a shake-n-break attachment for your air hammer.
Super interesting
If that J B Weld holds on that water pump manifold I will show my backside on the town hall steps.
Air Hammer in screw slot helps loosen screw too.
You weren’t worried that one of the screws will fall down the spark plug hole?
... Years ago we had a problem with a similar water pump leaking at the shaft because they used a felt washer as the seal. Years of lubing it and snugging the nut wore the shaft. Took the whole thing to a machine shop in Long Island and had a guy hog the housing for a late style ceramic seal. Been leak free for about 25 years now.
Yes, I too noticed you didn't use a drop of penetratating oil on those water neck screws. Why? Is it pointless when you are using heat in the first place?
You definitely need a good set of carbide burrs
Put rag in plug holes to stop screw heads etc going in bores
Back in the early eighties my father and uncle owned a fire truck restoration shop for about 7 years in California and they redid crown coach American to France rebuilt new cabs totally went through the entire truck put new Cummins motors in them and got rid of the hall Scots get all the LA county fire department's trucks all the crown coaches Vallejo the company was called AGA fire apparatus love to see this old stuff restored
Here in Finland we have a "code word". We use it when opening rusty and tight nuts and scerev. The word is: "PERKELE". Regards Stig Österberg from Dalsbruk in Finland.
I,am in the UK i had a old Dodge with a messy cooling system i found a non toxic home heating flush liquid i used it for a week running around and then opened the drain cock on the radiator you should have seen the crap run out ....just a thought
Breaking the castings loose try adding lube first and cut the handles off several thin flat screwdrivers gently use them as wedges spaced around the edges keep tapping but not in sequence
Why did you chisel off the heads and then use penitrating oil. You got that backwards.
heat then oil, heat then oil, heat then oil... cut as last resort
The strips of cloth like seals at the hood to cowl overlap look like asbestos containing material. I would treat them as such until you confirm otherwise. Some rather simple methods can be used to prevent asbestos contamination of other material, like your lungs, until they are if needed replaced. I think you should find appropriate information available online.
I just put a screw driver firmly in the slot and use a hammer to give it a "love tap", works well most of the time
if it didn't then she didn't love you
The shock from the hammer smack loosens the years of rust & corrosion enough to loosen it up
Just a to help comment, the next time your removing bolts with a screwdriver up where the handle starts is a place like a hex nut. Now not all screwdrivers have it but most good ones do but find a wrench that fits it and use the wrench for a little more strength to loosen the bolt.
I think I just purchased a bronze fire truck bell. is there anyone out there that I could have confirm this for me?
You should have done the pressure wash in turnouts!
What is your reason for not using cutting oil iwhen cutin new threads ?
@@markdixon5714 Now I know.....
🤔 👍🏻
One way of removing those machine screws, if they're not wanted, would be to tack a nut on top of each one then they use a wrench.
... I believe he said they were brass so you'd have to braze them and hope they don't snap. Personally, I feel a real torch could have put enough heat in there to do the job, but he still needs new hardware due to the odd thread.
That chemical cold weldingstuff ???? find an old scool alluminumwelder or casting new ones,anyway succes with the restoration.
he tried an impact driver..did not budge though!
Kroil for sure then a Wide flat blade. No screwdriver…
can you clean the crack and braze it in sitzu?
... those were aluminum. Personally, I would have added weld on the inside (where it doesn't show) and used the filler putty on the outside.
Kinda surprised you don't have an impact driver.
He does but not using correctly
I have lived in parts of the world where you could take broken parts like that, and get a re-caste part within a few days, but unless you were careful, even the crack would be reproduced, faithfully. Our world has not moved in all the correct directions.
WD 40.??
Kroil oil would have worked goggle it
That water jacket dose not look very good.
was für ein fusch