Trick for cutting with a plunge saw: You can take a plastic bottle an cut off the top so it fits over the saw dust exhaust. Then most of the dust will be collected in the bottle instead of the floor and in the air. Then it is just a matter of emptying the bottle in a bin. You just need a small 500-600 ml bottle for the purpose - empty it between each cut. You simply turn the exhaust upwards, slightly to the right, instead of downwards, and put on the bottle. Works well with the Mikita. The same can be done with the mitre saw. You miss covering the inside in some kind of metal sheets to avoid fires, if a burn goes wrong and some wood catches fire.
The air intake setup being used will create dead zones where fumes will not get pulled out but collect. Need to run 1-2 inch holes across the bottom side, with at least 1 in each corner. I would also put on the same side in the corner of the lid. This way as air is pulled in through the different holes, it creates an even air flow across the workspace with new air. You just dont want to many large holes, as you want slightly more volume out than in, which will ensure any cracks/seams will not allow smoke out due to the negative air pressure.
For your door lifts, you may wanna check out my spring setup that I use. It is far cheaper to add and also provides upward and downward tension to the door without the need for a latch to hold it closed as with struts, I have tried both and springs work better for me. It is all about the placement of the springs to adjust tension.
Hey! Thanks or the tip - I’ll think about the spring approach. Now that you mention it, I remember seeing that in one of your enclosure videos. I’m a long-time viewer of your channel by the way, keep up the great work!
It’s always great to learn new things. An added benefit is learning from your dad while creating wonderful memories. (Many people don’t have that ) When painting flat surfaces, using a roller is preferred, incredibly fast. Other option is to use a paint sprayer(costly, time consuming due to set up and protection from overspray, and cleanup/break down) I would like to creat a cabinet with a down draft exhaust. Would you might have plans for one? I also only have the standard D1 system. Thanks for video
Some suggestions. First - Instead of placing the intake air inside of the box .. force the air into the room instead. In combination with ducting the waste air to the outside .. you now created a positive air pressure in the room vs the inside of the box. It's like a clean room. The smoke can not escape even if you have a leak. In fact you want to have some ventilation into the box. Second - Use a more powerful fan for the in take than the out take .. like 6" in vs 4" out. Lastly - Close all doors into the room to help seal it. This is the way I have my laser setup. So, even if you open the lid before all residual smoke or smell is evacuated, it would still get drawn outside.
Very interesting ideas. One question. Wouldn’t it be better to have a larger exhaust (e.g. 6 inch) than intake (e.g. 4 inch), because then the exhaust would create negative air pressure INSIDE the box, meaning that it would pull in all the intake air as well as some ambient air in the room. That’s the way I was thinking about it, but do let me know if that’s flawed thinking.
I'm no engineers.. so, I'm guessing here. It would depend on the situations? For me, I have a 100W Thunder laser in a basement that is venting through the 1st floor and an attic. The laser generates a lot of smoke and smell. The basement air is cold and the smoke from the laser is NOT hot so I don't get the draw effect from the flue/chimney (20 ft in height). If anything.. in the summer I'm fighting to push the heavier cold air (68F on average) up to the roof. I originally had two 6" ducted fans. One is at the laser and one in the attic on the same flue. They were not enough. I still had some smoke and smell. So, I built a door with a 20” fan in it to blow air into the room from the rest of the basement. It worked .. no smoke or smell at all. The 20” fan was moving more air into the room than what the two 6” fans can pull out. So, for me it was inefficient to draw a vacuum with 6” ducted fans and at the same time try to push/lift the cold heavy air up 20 feet. For you a bigger out flow might be better since you are not fighting gravity. I think the most important thing is to have a differential in air pressure. The two fans should be of different capacity (CFM - Cubic Meter per Second). You can use the same 4" Dia. ducts for both. Just have one fan stronger than the other. BTW - I forgot to mention that I like your box! Very nice!
Hm - now you've really got me thinking! I hadn't thought of the role of heat in this equation (e.g. rising smoke in a chimney). I'm actually moving to a new workshop in about a month, so maybe I'll be able to play with optimizing the airflow a bit more at that time. Thanks for the really thoughtful thread here!
Nice design! I have an extension kit coming for my D1 Pro soon and therefore have outgrown my pre-made standard enclosure. I would love to have the plans for your enclosure! It's exactly what I'm looking for!
I have the same XTool set up with the extensions and would like to duplicate your enclosure. If plans are available may I please have a copy. Thank you.
Great build! I'm planning my own enclosure and trying to work out the best exhaust. I've seen a lot of people struggle with air smoke escaping their enclosure even with an exhaust fan. My logical solution is the same as your idea, which was to have an intake duct bringing air in from outside to the enclosure and seal it. That way the enclosure has it's own sealed environment. I was only planning to have one fan on the exhaust and let the negative pressure pull air in the intake. I see you have two different duct sizes and fans. Can you explain why you chose to do it that way? Will just one fan not be strong enough to pull air in from the intake? I saw another person's response that you need a stronger fan for the exhaust, but I would be worried that would just over-burden that fan that is starving for air to move and burn it out.
Thanks! For the fans, i use a 4inch (and slightly less powerful) fan for intake and a 6inch fan for exhaust. My original logic was that using a less powerful intake fan would still create some negative air pressure to account for any leaks in my seam sealing. With that said, I’m not sure it’s a perfect solution, so if you get good results with a different setup, I’d love to hear your approach.
If you’re talking MM, then unfortunately no. This design would be long enough, but not deep enough for your laser. BTW - I think I remember coming across this laser. Is it the one where you can basically extend it in two directions? Giving you a very large extended square working area? Just curious because most lasers only extend in one direction, whereas I think sculpfun allows “double extension”
Correction: I think I might have been wrong about my design fitting an extended Ortur LM3, but I don’t have one to test it with. If you have an extended LM3, please let me know what the real-world maximum external dimensions are in the comments. My enclosure design fits a maximum of 24” depth.
Too amateurish a build. Pre-drill holes for the screws will stop splitting of the wood. Joints are too rough. You are going to lose a finger or two using a table saw in that manner. If you are going to all this trouble, use some quality wood rather than cheap plywood and rough lumber. Sheesh, how do people get away wit this?
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Great job! Yes, build plans would be nice. I also have the extended X-tool 20 watt so something like your design would be perfect.
Trick for cutting with a plunge saw: You can take a plastic bottle an cut off the top so it fits over the saw dust exhaust. Then most of the dust will be collected in the bottle instead of the floor and in the air. Then it is just a matter of emptying the bottle in a bin. You just need a small 500-600 ml bottle for the purpose - empty it between each cut. You simply turn the exhaust upwards, slightly to the right, instead of downwards, and put on the bottle. Works well with the Mikita. The same can be done with the mitre saw.
You miss covering the inside in some kind of metal sheets to avoid fires, if a burn goes wrong and some wood catches fire.
The air intake setup being used will create dead zones where fumes will not get pulled out but collect. Need to run 1-2 inch holes across the bottom side, with at least 1 in each corner. I would also put on the same side in the corner of the lid. This way as air is pulled in through the different holes, it creates an even air flow across the workspace with new air. You just dont want to many large holes, as you want slightly more volume out than in, which will ensure any cracks/seams will not allow smoke out due to the negative air pressure.
Very thoughtful comment. Thanks for weighing in. I’m getting ready to set this up in my new shop, so I’ll consider your suggestions here.
For your door lifts, you may wanna check out my spring setup that I use. It is far cheaper to add and also provides upward and downward tension to the door without the need for a latch to hold it closed as with struts, I have tried both and springs work better for me. It is all about the placement of the springs to adjust tension.
Hey! Thanks or the tip - I’ll think about the spring approach. Now that you mention it, I remember seeing that in one of your enclosure videos. I’m a long-time viewer of your channel by the way, keep up the great work!
Cool, Thanks for watching. Nice looking enclosure also. @@asherdiy
It’s always great to learn new things. An added benefit is learning from your dad while creating wonderful memories. (Many people don’t have that )
When painting flat surfaces, using a roller is preferred, incredibly fast. Other option is to use a paint sprayer(costly, time consuming due to set up and protection from overspray, and cleanup/break down)
I would like to creat a cabinet with a down draft exhaust.
Would you might have plans for one? I also only have the standard D1 system.
Thanks for video
Some suggestions. First - Instead of placing the intake air inside of the box .. force the air into the room instead. In combination with ducting the waste air to the outside .. you now created a positive air pressure in the room vs the inside of the box. It's like a clean room. The smoke can not escape even if you have a leak. In fact you want to have some ventilation into the box. Second - Use a more powerful fan for the in take than the out take .. like 6" in vs 4" out. Lastly - Close all doors into the room to help seal it.
This is the way I have my laser setup. So, even if you open the lid before all residual smoke or smell is evacuated, it would still get drawn outside.
Very interesting ideas. One question. Wouldn’t it be better to have a larger exhaust (e.g. 6 inch) than intake (e.g. 4 inch), because then the exhaust would create negative air pressure INSIDE the box, meaning that it would pull in all the intake air as well as some ambient air in the room. That’s the way I was thinking about it, but do let me know if that’s flawed thinking.
I'm no engineers.. so, I'm guessing here. It would depend on the situations?
For me, I have a 100W Thunder laser in a basement that is venting through the 1st floor and an attic. The laser generates a lot of smoke and smell. The basement air is cold and the smoke from the laser is NOT hot so I don't get the draw effect from the flue/chimney (20 ft in height). If anything.. in the summer I'm fighting to push the heavier cold air (68F on average) up to the roof. I originally had two 6" ducted fans. One is at the laser and one in the attic on the same flue. They were not enough. I still had some smoke and smell. So, I built a door with a 20” fan in it to blow air into the room from the rest of the basement. It worked .. no smoke or smell at all. The 20” fan was moving more air into the room than what the two 6” fans can pull out.
So, for me it was inefficient to draw a vacuum with 6” ducted fans and at the same time try to push/lift the cold heavy air up 20 feet. For you a bigger out flow might be better since you are not fighting gravity.
I think the most important thing is to have a differential in air pressure. The two fans should be of different capacity (CFM - Cubic Meter per Second). You can use the same 4" Dia. ducts for both. Just have one fan stronger than the other.
BTW - I forgot to mention that I like your box! Very nice!
Hm - now you've really got me thinking! I hadn't thought of the role of heat in this equation (e.g. rising smoke in a chimney). I'm actually moving to a new workshop in about a month, so maybe I'll be able to play with optimizing the airflow a bit more at that time.
Thanks for the really thoughtful thread here!
Would love the plans to the enclosure....won't have to look any further, this will my build. THANKS
I appreciate you sharing all of your hard work. I too, would like plans
and build plans would be cool at some point
Build plans would be great. I just picked up my 1st laser and it is the d1 pro with the extension. Great design
Looking forward to your cut plans
I would love to get your plans. Great video
Great enclosure JJ. I would love a copy of the plans if you have them.
Nice design! I have an extension kit coming for my D1 Pro soon and therefore have outgrown my pre-made standard enclosure. I would love to have the plans for your enclosure! It's exactly what I'm looking for!
I would love to see the plans for this if you are willing to share.
I want plans… thanks
2 months later I would like your plans and any improvements ... i have a desk my B1 sits on and its 48"X37" .. but i like your box thanks
Nice enclosure. I would like to get the plans if possible.
I would love the plans. I am just upgrading to the extended XTool D1 Pro and really want to build a better enclosure instead of buying the bigger one.
Please may I have a copy of the plans. Thanks.
Great job on the enclosure. Could I get the plans? Also, where did tou get the extended honeycomb?
I would like the build plans please.
Great video! I appreciate you sharing all the steps on how you made it. Can you share where you sourced the laser safe acrylic? Thank you!
Sure thing - I got them from Jtech Photonics. Ordered it online from their website.
@@asherdiy - Thank you!
I have the same XTool set up with the extensions and would like to duplicate your enclosure. If plans are available may I please have a copy. Thank you.
Very informative video. Thanks! Where did you get the laser protective acrylic you installed?
Good question - it’s been awhile, but I believe it was called JTech Photonics
How would i get plans ?
hey mate, nice job! have you got plans?
Please send me the enclosure file! Thanks!
I would love the plans for this.
I would like the plans please. Great job
I would love to have a copy of your plans.
I want plans please
Good video and a very nice enclosure ... thanks. If plans are available, I would sure be interested in them!
very nice. I would love to have the plans
G;Day mate I would love a copy of your plans if posable . love ya channel please keep up the great work that you do it really helps people out .Cheers
Great build! I'm planning my own enclosure and trying to work out the best exhaust. I've seen a lot of people struggle with air smoke escaping their enclosure even with an exhaust fan. My logical solution is the same as your idea, which was to have an intake duct bringing air in from outside to the enclosure and seal it. That way the enclosure has it's own sealed environment.
I was only planning to have one fan on the exhaust and let the negative pressure pull air in the intake. I see you have two different duct sizes and fans. Can you explain why you chose to do it that way? Will just one fan not be strong enough to pull air in from the intake?
I saw another person's response that you need a stronger fan for the exhaust, but I would be worried that would just over-burden that fan that is starving for air to move and burn it out.
Thanks! For the fans, i use a 4inch (and slightly less powerful) fan for intake and a 6inch fan for exhaust. My original logic was that using a less powerful intake fan would still create some negative air pressure to account for any leaks in my seam sealing. With that said, I’m not sure it’s a perfect solution, so if you get good results with a different setup, I’d love to hear your approach.
Great video. Would love the plans if they are still available.
Plans please.
Thanx for sharing, like to have the building plan.
Hello In addition to XTOOL, will you evaluate other brands of laser engraving machines in the future?
Would love the build plans
I would like to get a copy of the plans. Thanks
Gesh...3 guys building this aye ?! Guess I'll have great fun trying to do it alone 🙂
Or just trick two friends by inviting them to a build “party” :)
@@asherdiy 😆
If you still have the build plans available, I’d appreciate them. Thanks, in advance.
very nice design. I would like to build that enclouser.
Good job. Where did you get the plexiglass?
JTech Photonics
I won’t plans please
absolutely cool, could i have the plans please !!
Looking for a better enclosure for my D1 pro with extensions the Xtool is not working for me. Like your design and would love a copy of your plans.
nice to see this, been wondering how it was coming along!
Yeah - it took me a really long time to figure out how to edit down all the footage to a manageable length of time.
Build plans would be cool. 😎😁
I want build plans
I would like the plans
I would like plans please
How do you choose your window panel for safety??
I want plans. Please
Thanks in advance
Build Plans Please. Nice Design!
Nice. Thanks for sharing. Very helpful
Plans please
I want build plans. Please
@AsherDIY any chance of build plans for this?
Hi Andrea - sorry, I’ve been swamped with too many other things. So Unfortunately I probably won’t get to it soon.
Completely understand! I can figure out most of it from the video. Thanks for replying
I want plans
plans please
I have a sculpfun s30 ultra 33W. I'm having trouble finding an enclosure for it. It pretty much is a 720x720 footprint. Can this work for me?
If you’re talking MM, then unfortunately no. This design would be long enough, but not deep enough for your laser. BTW - I think I remember coming across this laser. Is it the one where you can basically extend it in two directions? Giving you a very large extended square working area? Just curious because most lasers only extend in one direction, whereas I think sculpfun allows “double extension”
Correction: I think I might have been wrong about my design fitting an extended Ortur LM3, but I don’t have one to test it with. If you have an extended LM3, please let me know what the real-world maximum external dimensions are in the comments. My enclosure design fits a maximum of 24” depth.
Design documents please - PJJ
send me free file xtool d1 20w pro with extensions
Too amateurish a build. Pre-drill holes for the screws will stop splitting of the wood. Joints are too rough. You are going to lose a finger or two using a table saw in that manner. If you are going to all this trouble, use some quality wood rather than cheap plywood and rough lumber. Sheesh, how do people get away wit this?