How To Install a Whole House Surge Protector in your Main Panel
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- Опубликовано: 18 июн 2024
- Square D QO Surgebreaker: amzn.to/2oxcWQt
Universal Whole House Surge Protector: amzn.to/2MIZXKf
Square D Homeline Surgebreaker: amzn.to/2Q1ecYW
Insulated Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/2PQRGBX
Klein Wire Stripping Tool: amzn.to/2NzvQkK
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Adding a whole house surge protector is a simple way to protect all of your household appliances. Be sure to order the correct brand surge protector breaker for your panel or use the universal option. I would still recommend using an additional "point of use" surge protector for your computers and other sensitive equipment if possible like this one: amzn.to/2PpqaKE
0:00 - Whole House Surge Breaker Intro
0:32 - 3 Levels Of Surge Protection
1:52 - DISCONNECT POWER
2:59 - How To Install Panel Surge Protector
6:24 - Other Options
7:26 - Replace Cover
8:22 - SUBSCRIBE!!!
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Blessings,
Ben
I’m glad to see a young guy so knowledgeable and
professional that do the job right. You have a bright future!
@ Retired at 49: The surge protector, in the form of a breaker, is protecting both legs because it is 2 pole and connected to both. Both neutral bars should be bonded together (and connected to the ground). The other concept to understand is that a traditional breaker only stops current when there is over-amperage. The surge protector is a completely different animal--it draws and absorbs over-voltage only, regardless of its position on the bus. It does not stop current, but instead acts like a voltage regulator for a tiny slice of time during the surge--and in doing so valiantly gives up its ghost. After the surge, the unit's soul goes to heaven and the green LED dies, and the device can no longer take another hit...but current continues! At no time does it interrupt current though. An important point is left out of this video--he is going to have to periodically march out to the panel and check that the unit is still alive and working. An exterior mounted surge box will have a window into the consumable "breaker" LED so at least you don't have to open the panel door--an excellent application for a dedicated security camera if you ask me.
Thank you!
This was exactly the answer I was looking for before I even ask the question, but the guy is also a very good knowledgable eletrician
Thanks Dave--outstanding comment.
hmm sounds like a good candidate for a built in wifi or BT capability actually. or even just an annoying sound like a smoke alarm makes.
@@Layarionpowerline networking would be the a good way to network surge suppression and circuit breakers. 300baud is more than enough bandwidth to to send “replace me.”
At 72 I still have the scar around my ring finger at 15 years old, haven't wore a ring since! Like seeing a young guy doing videos.
Damn!
Yes, yes super stoked for a standby generator installation and connection video from you! Have plans of installing one myself in the near future. Thanks for the great info and videos!
Almost exactly the "how-to" video I've been looking for. Very helpful. I just ordered an Intermatic Model IG1240RC3 Type 1&2 SPD. It has 4 wires so it doesn't fit into the breaker spaces in the lower compartment of the meter post but watching your video gives me a lot more confidence to install it myself. Thanks. 👍
Good job man. I take a deep breath before opening a panel too. I may have stripped that wire and guesstimated on the length before plugging in that breaker. Safety first or safety last. Lol. TY!!
I want guys like Ben for neighbors, whether electrician or not.
Ben, you are the best there is, I love your well informed videos, but one additional small, but important safety points, would be to remove jewelry (ring) during panel work.
I like your video and your humility. Don't forget torque.
I've been an electrician for 21 years and I have to laugh because @5:21 you say to use tools whenever to distance yourself from Danger while you are wearing a ring on your hand to install this.
Dont worry, he has 9 other fingers so he's bound to learn his lesson eventually, hopefully before he losses a really important finger like the middle (which as we all know is the most important finger for communication on a construction site).
I learn as a 18 year old kid to not wear any metal or any type of man jewelry because you don't want to connect with something live or get caught with something either and get hurt.
I laughed at using insulated screwdriver on the neutral. With the power off.
@@SavedByFaithInJesus There is always the possibility of having skin contact with the shaft of a screwdriver and having the screwdriver tip touch a live incoming leg (a slip or a distraction, bee or snake for instance)...ZAP! The presenter is right, not dead right but safely right.
Let me get this straight. The power is fully off right? Why is he worried about this at all? Isn't this the equivalent of wearing two condoms?
Good job emphasizing safe practice!
Good vid and explanation. Thank you. Now I know
Good informations and clear details
Thanks for the explanation, bro!
Nice tutorial! Thank-you!
Thank you for your help!
Nice Type 2 surge suppressor install. Thank you.
I also had an electrician install a Type 1 surge suppressor in the meter housing (get permission from the utility company before installing one- they may say no!)
Thank you again.
Awesome that you were able to get a Type 1 installed as not many people have that option it seems.
Thats because it may trip the utility breaker at the pole i believe
They may not say no anymore. 2020 code requires whole house surge protector, type 1 or 2
I learned more from your videos than any of the others.
Awesome! Glad I was able to help just a bit!
At about timestamp 4:00 I get that same feeling, especially when cutting off all that white wire...but...I know to follow the laws of physics! Especially when dealing with the HUGE di/dt caused by lightning. The wire needs to be short as possible, so it can be straight as possible. Any bends or kinks in the wire tends to cause the rapidly expanding EMP (circulating B-Field lines around the entire length of the wire) tend to 'cut through' even more of the current-carrying wire, thus increasing the parasitic voltage drop.
Nice informative information, thanks .
Type 1 surge protection devices include from service transformer to the line side service disconnect over current device.
thxxx for posting .
Your video was very informative; and easy to understand. Just for clarity... The neutral and ground can be installed on the same bus bar, just can't share the same hole?
Hey Ben, really enjoy the videos. Are you a big fan of QO panels? What’s your favorite panel?
Fine Install. For a little extra insurance use dielectric grease on aluminum connections.
Awesome thanks.
Very nice simple clear info,,,,,I have a homeline main panel what is the right/correct surge protector for my main panel?
What's the difference between using this and breakermatic for major appliances? I ask since the latter will shut the appliance off for protection as well as monitor for both low and high voltages.
Good information
Great video. I do wish you’d change the position of your hands to be below the main lugs when stripping wires. Any slip into the line side will not end well.
I’ve replaced two control boards in my furnace in a 2-1/2 year span. I think this is needed.
As I understand it this particular surge protector is good unless the green LED is out indicating that the protector unit has been subjected to an excessive (to the protector's rating) surge. If the LED is out the unit must be replaced ($70) to continue to provide surge protection.
Question: how does everyone feel about installing a sacrificial arrester INSIDE of the panel like this? I'm an engineer with a power utility, and have seen MOV type arresters blow themselves to bits and cause collateral damage. On the other hand, my panel has had an internal one for 20 years with no problems. Have any electricians out there seen these cause damage? Also, does anyone have a recommendation for size of surge protector? It appears that the homeline one is 22.5kA, but I see others out there rated at 80kA and above (with options to mount externally). Opinions?
Sir, what is the model and make of this surge protector?
We just bought a house, and the previous Election installed a 150 Amp Breaker in the middle of a new breaker panel (as a Main) that has 42 spaces. He then installed all the breakers above the 150. Question; is it okay to install new circuits below and around this “Main” and does it matter where I locate the Surge Breaker in reference to the other breakers and the Main? My gut felling is to move the main to the top of the panel but that would require a service disconnect.
Square d makes a csed with the meter main, pass through lugs and 8 spaces. I put one in when my off brand panel had burned buswork.
Hey Ben. Where the surged power comes from? And where does it goes?
Does each leg need one? Or does this one Surge protect both legs?
Will this prevent GFCI breakers from tripping on lighting surge's?
Ok what I know about electrical wireing is minimal. I'm having a hard time understanding how this particular surge protector is protecting the other side of the panel??? It would seem to me this is only protecting the left side and only the one breaker installed underneath it. I'm also having a hard time understanding how this is even protecting anything as it's my understanding that current flows down both bars or buses so I dont understand if that's the case how putting a surge protector is going to stop current when the breaker is underneath the surge protector. In other words if the surge protector breaks the circuit wont power still be flowing down the bus bar ? I can see how if a surge protector is installed before a box how it protects by breaking the circuit if a surge happens in turn stopping any current flowing downstream but the way this surge protector is installed how does it stop current down the line? So confusing!?
For an off grid cabin just using a generator - would you need a surge protector (I assume for lightening, not grid surges in that case). Can the QO wired like this still fit on the push-on neutral when wired to the neutral up top? The push-on-N breaker was out of stock. Thanks
Nice video
Electrican safety trick if you don't have a rubber mat to protect those live , top of panel lugs
You could use a piece of cardboard make sure its doesn't have any metal staples on it and use the cardboard as some sort of protection from the live bus ..
I recommend you use a rubber mat for the best safety but the paper cardboard could offer some protection but of course do this at your own risk , I am not advising anyone to do this but just saying what I will do if I don't have a rubber mat and I think the cardboard is better than no protection..
What about common mode protection to ground? You need that too. Are there surge breakers that have that?
Will this protect sensitive equipment from high THD generators? If not what will?
What happens if u get a surge, would that spd turn off and whole panel turns off?
Does the surge protector have too have its on breaker because I don't have room for a extra breaker and it's a 4 wire breaker?
I have a 400 amp meter main combo. 150 amps to the house and 250 amps to my shop. Should I install a surge protector inside the house main and another one at my shop sub panel ?
Good 👍👍
Enjoyed your video. Very helpful. Question. Since the surge protector you installed is placed at the top of the left leg, is it just going to protect the 110 volt circuits on that leg. May not be a clear question. But wondering if I would need two, one for each leg. Just have no knowledge of how these work. Thanks!
The QO breakers are narrower than a lot of others, so it may not be obvious, but the Surgebreaker uses two spaces and connects to both legs. For comparison, see the 2-pole breaker to the right, and the 1-pole breaker below.
Tom, the two legs are not split left and right. They are split to every other row going down. So it’s on both sides.
Does that work for a 5 ton ac?
This kid is pretty smart
So I only have an extra space at the bottom of the bus (i think it's called) and it seems like you should have the surge protector be of the first breakers in your panel? So would that mean that I should move all my other breakers down to make room at the top? Good videos btw... slow and easily to follow and understand
You could move the top two breakers down (or one if it is double pole). You can extend the wires for the breaker(s) you have to move using wire nuts if necessary. Otherwise if that's too complicated you really can just add it at the bottom. It will still work and be WAY better than nothing at all. Good luck and thanks for your comment!
Just move the top breaker to the bottom, easy peasy, the install the surge breaker at the top under the main. NOTE: hopefully, there is enough "slack",i.e. extra wire on the top breaker to move it to the bottom. Be sure to change info on breaker panel schedule to correct space.
If you install a whole house surge protector, would there be a need to install a surge protector on you outside AC compressor or any other major component around the home? Also do any of these devices have a replacement cost of equipment coverage amount?
Having both whole house and HVAC units is recommended. Installed at the outside compressor, the HVAC one will handle surges that originate inside the house better than the whole house unit back at the breaker box. I have an Intermatic AG3000 installed next to my compressor. It offers a three year, $7500 warranty. It is weatherproof, so it can be installed outside.
Would installing 2 of these in one panel add more/increase protection or be a redundancy of sorts? Should one be installed in sub panels?
If you happen to have two, I'd use one and keep the other *uninstalled* as a quick replacement spare. A surge that kills one would probably kill both. If you want more rugged protection, look into one with a higher surge capacity such as the Siemens FS140, which can handle a 140,000 Amp surge on each phase. That compares to the 22,500 Amps for the one he installed. That Siemens is the one I put in my house. I assume that a 140K unit would shrug off a surge that'd kill a 22.5K one. The Siemens costs over three times as much, but should last longer and maybe permanently.
I know different people doing electrical will tell you a different way of doing this. One electrician who was licensed in two states said to leave that neutral wire has long as possible, something to do with the arms and resistant in the white wire.
check with insurance company they may give you a discount with a installation of a surge protector , I have been doing research on a whole panel surge protection ,I called 5 supple houses none carry them for one reason or another .I called my electrician he says they are worth less lighting does something different every time jumping from cable over to power ,many ways ,The only one he says are good are the ones the power company will install charge a monthly fee .
Thanks for the tip!
Have you ever got a arc fault to your ring?
Where would I connect the wire if my house doesn't have neutral?
So if I have a surge protection I do not need AFCI anymore?
You make very good informative videos! Keep up the good work. Btw, are you from Ukraine or Russia?
Thanks! Not from Russia or Ukraine that I'm aware of. I think we do have a very small (like 1/64) amount of Russian but it's almost nothing. What makes you ask?
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Ben, I he meant Scandinavian. Sahlstrom is probably Swedish... or maybe Norwegian.👍 love your channel. Love to hear what u think of some of the 2020 NEC changes
cool
Question;
How much did that surge protector breaker cost you?? I need one for my home, I've gone through 6 washer machines and 5 dryers. And I recently got a surge to my oven and stove because now my clock doesn't work. So I need something.
Surge protection breaker technical specification and company make plz
Can these provide any protection from the "dirty power" you get when using a backup generator with poor THD ratings? If not what do you recommend using for cleaning up the power conditions when using B/U generators?
Donald, no this device only takes action when the voltage exceeds a threshold such as 300v which is above the normal 250v. When you have dirty power that is simply a variation away from the pure sine wave, such as a stepped square wave but that variation is not causing a high voltage above 240v. So, no this device won’t help at all for noise. None.
What do you think about Leviton load center ??? And their breaker
They're expensive but cool. you can get special parts that allow you to monitor which circuits are drawing the most power and allows you to measure and lower your power consumption.
Is a surge protecter supposed to save your wireing from lightning?
In my country the main breaker is immediately after the meter, so if the main breaker is off, the breaker panel is out completely. We don't have that problem when the electrician works on the breaker panel
I have a outside surge protecter installed on my box. Got hit with lightning, nothing happened to the building but blu the sockets and line out to my shop. What happened?????
These tubes are getting expensive for me.
Now i am obsessed with getting one for my type CH Eaton panel. Unfortunately its a bit more than $58 in my case.
Haha, I know what you mean! Even if it is a bit more $$$ it is probably a worthwhile investment. Hopefully you can find a good option that is at least somewhat affordable. How much is the one that is for your panel?
$90 for snap in like yours. Or $120 plus a 50ampbreaker (necessary) for the external mount type.
www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-Whole-House-Surge-Protector-CHSPT2ULTRA-1/204761136?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD27E%7C27-8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT._DEVICES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034238981%7c58700003943782709%7c92700031956831781&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIovWu06Sb3QIVBksNCh1MzgOSEAQYASABEgL1lfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNvrmNakm90CFYdGNwodGXsMAg
Nice. I'd go for the snap in one still I think.
Yeah the scourge of youtube and web. I now want.
1. Build a shed .... with cantilevered overhang.
2. Hobby CNC to make prototype circuit boards for....
3. Creating a smart home system that would retrofit into an existing house....
4. Fulfil desire to have my own woodworking shop
.... and danged if I don't see more and more and more interesting sh!t I'd love to do. I wish this had been around 40 years ago.
If anyone could help with this: I was wondering if is it necessary to put another arrestor on the other hot side ?
2 pole connects to both legs (L1 and L2). Contacts alternate on both sides. Installation is not for amateurs, too many risks for injury or electricution.
Question. If a second building's breaker box is tied into the main breaker box in the main building, do both breaker boxes need a surge protector, or is it okay to just install a surge protector in the first box?
I would highly recommend adding one in both. I'm not 100% on if it's code or not though.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Thanks for the response.
Where are all the breakers to the stove, lights, a/c etcetera? Most homes have a separate box for connecting to the utility power?
This panel has feed through lugs that go to another 200a panel located in the house.
Why is the service panel and meter located so far from the house? I have never seen this configuration here in Texas.
That is how mine is (in central Texas).
It probably would have been safer to take the breaker out and strip the wire away from the dangerous service lugs - you already figured out how long you needed them. :-)
How do you know what size the wire is that you want to strip the insulation off of?
It is usually written on the wire
And directions duh
When connecting any device: Start with grounds, then neutrals, last is hots.
When disconnecting anything: Start with hots, then neutrals and last grounds.
With the power off? AnYtHiNg goes.
That red wire going to the single QO breaker doesn't look clamped correctly.
this is very dangers but its cool
can you mount that in a pubpanel..
How much does this usually cost?
$125 at Home Depot
I don't have any extra spaces in my panel, so I connected an external surge protector on the double pole breaker that also has wires going to the garage. Will the surge protector work under this circumstance?
Like
could you explain how this work? and how well they work? what are their limitations?
I asked my switchgear supplier (panels, breakers, and stuff like this) how these work and he said "i dont know, probably black magic" so i dont know exactly how they work. They're effectiveness can be hit and miss, we get regular surges and power outages here and sometimes people have appliances get fried after a surge since the surge protector didnt work. They are a one time use, sort of like a fuse they normally burn out from the surge but they're supposed to be rated at huge power surges. There's normally a small LED light that turns off when the surge suppressor dies or isnt installed correctly.
hi
... and no jewelry while working on panels... :-) @5:48
Hi. I have a 200 amp main panel and another 200 amp sub panel next to it. Do I need 2 surge protectors or just 1 in the main panel.
Here we have permission from the power co to pull any meter then call them to get a new seal
That particular QO surge protector is only 700 joules. Almost useless. All of my plug in surge protector's for TV, computer, fridge etc are 1000 joules and above for much less money. My only concern, and what is not protected is the 220 stuff, such as the dryer, and stove. 700 joules is far too low to be good protection.
Make sure you have someone with you that has a working cell phone as your "chaperone", a good quality pair of farm black rubber boots or a 3 x 4 rubber mat to stand on is not a bad idea as well. Electricity is something to be greatly respected, like a gasoline chain saw, and dry fitting, removing that device, then cutting the short white wire, then re-installing it in the box. Remember the rule, only one hand goes into the box. Good eye protection. Those solid 10 or 12 gage copper wires can fly off in crazy angles at remarkable speeds. Does your box have it's own 8' copper grounding rod? I would add one if these isn't one. All of this safety stuff is most important to the non full time electrician who may do something stupid for a verity of reasons.
One last tip that is not well known -- if you have this as your main disconect for your house and a separate run in this box that goes to the well house, you are permitted to have wires above or before your main disconcert so that if you have a fire you can throw the disconect to kill all power to your house but yet keep electricity "on" in your well house for water production for fire protection. You have a small sub-panel with the circuit breaker to the well so you can easily kill the power to the well to work on it. I also added one of these lightning arresters (surge protectors) to the boxing's my well house. We have lots of thunder storms, and the cost of the arrester was $13.00 a few years ago and the cost5 to pull the 240 volt, 2 horse power pump that was set at 180 feet would be would be $3,000.00 now days and that's on the low side.
You said this device will protect the whole house against an electrical surge but you are failing on telling people that it will only protect from the incoming power (utility) it will not protect if the surge originates in a branch circuit for example an a/c unit... The surge will travel to other appliances before returning to the main disconnect.
surprised to see you wearing a ring while working. you know better
WHY would somebody go to the trouble and install a USED surge protector? Those do WEAR OUT over time, particularly due to mini surges that they absorb.
He professes safety, but wearing a ring and NO face protection in a hot load center, pretty dumb.
The RUclips search engine is a nightmare now.
I pay $12 a month so I wont see RUclips ads but the search engine gives me
a handful of relevant results and everything else is completely unrelated. Sad.
WRZ 2023-01-07
This kid is pretty smart