Checked valve clearance. It is within the specifications. But I still hear shim noise (ticking noise) once the engine reaches its operating temperature. Is it a thing to worry about ? The performance and fuel efficiency is same as before but there is shim/ticking noise even though valve clearance is proper. Can I ignore it ? (Timing chain, chain tensioner, shims, rocker arms all are brand newly replaced)
The mechanism always makes noises, problem or not a problem? If everything is new and adjusted then in my opinion there is no problem. You can monitor the noise, if it's something abnormal, the noises should increase later, or you will start to suffer from poor performance, etc. Maybe you manage to overload the engine at low rpm? Maybe you trying to accelerate hard from 4000 rpm or from less rpm? If so, it destroys the engine and also makes noises of the type you describe(Aloud ticking)..
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 thanks for the response. The ticking sound is not unbearable. It can't be heard while riding as I wear a tight helmet. And I shift gears at 5k RPM. Occasionally on highways o shift at 7k RPM.
@@RRP1992 Maybe you mean the CBR250R rattles phenomenon? From what I've been able to research it is coming from the air release valve for the exhaust manifold, the one on the top of the valve cover. This noise should not bother you, you get used to it and that's it.
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 it is the ticking noise caused by shims. Funny enough, it sounds like "tik tik tik tik tik" sewing machine type of a sound. Doesn't happen when engine is cold. Only occurs once engine gets hot (no heating issues though)
@@RRP1992 You can try to record your tik tik sound, upload to RUclips, give a link here, and I'll try to see what it's about. But I think you hear normal engine noises. Yes, the valves make a valve noise, even when adjusted properly.
Hi. The tensioner is recommended to be replaced every 20-25 thousand kilometers. In my opinion, the valve adjustment is not affected by an old tensioner that was not replaced on time. There should be no connection between the two procedures.
What determines it is the measurement you perform! As a rule, people don't work the engine hard on the racetrack, so the valves don't tend to go out of tune. The erosion can be of the type that increases the gap. And the erosion can be of the type that reduces the gap. It all depends on the nature of your use of the engine, aggressive use will often cause the gap to be reduced (and then you need a thinner shims to return to the specification area). But it is less important to focus on the explanation, and if there is doubt, then repeat the measurement. ONLY the measurement determines whether you need a thicker shims or a thinner shims. A slight departure from the specification area does not cause any damage to the engine, but can be felt in a slight decrease in engine performance. For people who don't compete on the racetrack it's negligible. If the valves don't make a particularly noisy concert, you can skip the need for a valve adjustment check. And if you in doubt, it's always good to consult a local mechanic you trust on.
Sorry, you're right, I didn't find an efficient way to arrange Shims either. Buying a full set of Honda in 0.025mm intervals is expensive. I didn't want to buy a replacement set because the intervals in the generic set are larger, 0.05mm. Ordering at the local dealership is the fastest way, provided they have the shims you need in stock. So it turns out that the engine remains open, and the motorcycle is disabled, until the shims you ordered arrive, and then you have to see that they really fit, and if they don't fit, then you have to buy again 🤦♂️😒It is what it is
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 brother I have done something I measured the valve clearance ..the shims which needs to be undersize are rubbed with sand paper ...the shim which are smaller I inserted an circular filler gauge leaf by cutting it
Dikshant Boora I see with yours method two problems that may arise. One, if the polishing is not at a mirror level, then the abrasion on the polished area will cause a further decrease in thickness within a short period of time. The second, if you insert under the main shim a cut leaf from filer gauge with a thickness, let say 0.03mm, this leaf can move and distort, then cause displacements in the spacing, or an uneven spacing. Your thought is beautiful, but I do not recommend your method.
I have a videos that I haven't edited yet of the all process. The all process is long and really difficult and complicated, maybe next month? I'll try.
@@ZaidKhan-np9mr 1 There is the nominal gap, the manufacturer's specification, say 0.27 for EX 2 There is the thickness of the valve clearance we measured with the filer gauge, let's say 0.25 3 And there is the thickness of the shims that we removed (because if we had measured a proper clearance, then we would not have removed it), measured with a micrometer, let's say 1.975 And if these three numbers(1, 2, 3) we perform the following calculation: (0.25 - 0.27) + 1.975 = 1.955 The Honda shims are sold in increments of 0.025mm, so the most suitable shim for the calculation at the example I made would be 1.95mm thick. 0:05 The value in brackets can come out plus OR minus, in my example it came minus. If the interval measured by the filter gauge is greater than 0.27 that value came out plus.
@@ZaidKhan-np9mr The value calculated in brackets is the value that determines if you need to replaced for a thicker shim, or you need be replaced for more thinly shim. The value in brackets is reduced (if it comes out in Minus), or added (if it comes Pelos), to the existing shim value, the one you need to replace.
I can understand you. It's very difficult to achieve comfortable video details when you shooting with one hand and working with the other, or when shooting while the engine is fixed inside the frame, and it's also difficult to convey mechanical sensations in video...It is what it is.
For inlet, 0.10 mm clearance is too tight. It should be atleast 0.13 mm
YES
It was to tight
THANKS!👍👍👍
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 see my video for too low valve clearanceruclips.net/video/cxpPpylLdvc/видео.html
👌👌👌👌👌👌
Checked valve clearance. It is within the specifications. But I still hear shim noise (ticking noise) once the engine reaches its operating temperature. Is it a thing to worry about ? The performance and fuel efficiency is same as before but there is shim/ticking noise even though valve clearance is proper. Can I ignore it ? (Timing chain, chain tensioner, shims, rocker arms all are brand newly replaced)
The mechanism always makes noises, problem or not a problem? If everything is new and adjusted then in my opinion there is no problem.
You can monitor the noise, if it's something abnormal, the noises should increase later, or you will start to suffer from poor performance, etc.
Maybe you manage to overload the engine at low rpm?
Maybe you trying to accelerate hard from 4000 rpm or from less rpm? If so, it destroys the engine and also makes noises of the type you describe(Aloud ticking)..
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 thanks for the response. The ticking sound is not unbearable. It can't be heard while riding as I wear a tight helmet. And I shift gears at 5k RPM. Occasionally on highways o shift at 7k RPM.
@@RRP1992
Maybe you mean the CBR250R rattles phenomenon?
From what I've been able to research it is coming from the air release valve for the exhaust manifold, the one on the top of the valve cover.
This noise should not bother you, you get used to it and that's it.
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 it is the ticking noise caused by shims. Funny enough, it sounds like "tik tik tik tik tik" sewing machine type of a sound. Doesn't happen when engine is cold. Only occurs once engine gets hot (no heating issues though)
@@RRP1992
You can try to record your tik tik sound, upload to RUclips, give a link here, and I'll try to see what it's about. But I think you hear normal engine noises. Yes, the valves make a valve noise, even when adjusted properly.
chain tensioner removed or not..during this process
Hi. The tensioner is recommended to be replaced every 20-25 thousand kilometers. In my opinion, the valve adjustment is not affected by an old tensioner that was not replaced on time. There should be no connection between the two procedures.
I have a confusion do we need to decrease the size or increase?
What determines it is the measurement you perform!
As a rule, people don't work the engine hard on the racetrack, so the valves don't tend to go out of tune.
The erosion can be of the type that increases the gap.
And the erosion can be of the type that reduces the gap.
It all depends on the nature of your use of the engine, aggressive use will often cause the gap to be reduced (and then you need a thinner shims to return to the specification area).
But it is less important to focus on the explanation, and if there is doubt, then repeat the measurement.
ONLY the measurement determines whether you need a thicker shims or a thinner shims.
A slight departure from the specification area does not cause any damage to the engine, but can be felt in a slight decrease in engine performance. For people who don't compete on the racetrack it's negligible. If the valves don't make a particularly noisy concert, you can skip the need for a valve adjustment check. And if you in doubt, it's always good to consult a local mechanic you trust on.
Brother is there any replacement for shims as it's very difficult to arrange shims
Sorry, you're right, I didn't find an efficient way to arrange Shims either.
Buying a full set of Honda in 0.025mm intervals is expensive.
I didn't want to buy a replacement set because the intervals in the generic set are larger, 0.05mm.
Ordering at the local dealership is the fastest way, provided they have the shims you need in stock.
So it turns out that the engine remains open, and the motorcycle is disabled, until the shims you ordered arrive, and then you have to see that they really fit, and if they don't fit, then you have to buy again
🤦♂️😒It is what it is
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 brother I have done something I measured the valve clearance ..the shims which needs to be undersize are rubbed with sand paper ...the shim which are smaller I inserted an circular filler gauge leaf by cutting it
Dikshant Boora
I see with yours method two problems that may arise.
One, if the polishing is not at a mirror level, then the abrasion on the polished area will cause a further decrease in thickness within a short period of time.
The second, if you insert under the main shim a cut leaf from filer gauge with a thickness, let say 0.03mm, this leaf can move and distort, then cause displacements in the spacing, or an uneven spacing.
Your thought is beautiful, but I do not recommend your method.
Please explain shim calculation for cbr 250
I have a videos that I haven't edited yet of the all process. The all process is long and really difficult and complicated, maybe next month? I'll try.
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 I am technician of Honda big wing I have a little confusion in shim calculation please help me for better
@@ZaidKhan-np9mr
1
There is the nominal gap, the manufacturer's specification, say 0.27 for EX
2
There is the thickness of the valve clearance we measured with the filer gauge, let's say 0.25
3
And there is the thickness of the shims that we removed (because if we had measured a proper clearance, then we would not have removed it), measured with a micrometer, let's say 1.975
And if these three numbers(1, 2, 3) we perform the following calculation:
(0.25 - 0.27) + 1.975 = 1.955
The Honda shims are sold in increments of 0.025mm, so the most suitable shim for the calculation at the example I made would be 1.95mm thick.
0:05
The value in brackets can come out plus OR minus, in my example it came minus. If the interval measured by the filter gauge is greater than 0.27 that value came out plus.
@@ZaidKhan-np9mr
The value calculated in brackets is the value that determines if you need to replaced for a thicker shim, or you need be replaced for more thinly shim. The value in brackets is reduced (if it comes out in Minus), or added (if it comes Pelos), to the existing shim value, the one you need to replace.
@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 ok thank you so much sir for helping me 😊😊
did not understand anything
I can understand you. It's very difficult to achieve comfortable video details when you shooting with one hand and working with the other, or when shooting while the engine is fixed inside the frame, and it's also difficult to convey mechanical sensations in video...It is what it is.