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@@SmokeandSteel Hi From time to time, a drop leaks from that pipe, according to the Honda's instructions, this is normal and does not cause any problems. Since leaks can be from other areas, it is important to regularly check the engine oil level, the coolant level, and the brake fluid level.

@@SmokeandSteel If the leak from the drain pipe of the cooling pump starts to be continuous, then by the type of liquid and his color, you know which of the two seals has collapsed, the oil seal, or the mechanical seal of the cooling liquid. If you are replacing one seal, then it is already recommended to replace the other seals too, and maybe the two bearings as well. And you can buy the entire right engine cover complete, including a new pump, which is already installed inside it.

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 the weep hole closest to the front wheel, under the oil filter cover. It doesn't leak when I'm parked but after riding I'll see two or so drops forming directly on the weep hole. Straight oil, doesn't appear to be mixed with coolant.

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 sorry to use you as a resource but in your opinion, is that normal? I feel like any oil dripping would be abnormal. It gunks up the lower plastic over time. I'm thinking about doing those seals. Doesn't look like too bad of a job.

@@amaanansari5714 Hi. You will find shims at any motorcycle spare parts supplier. It goes by diameter and by thickness. There are suppliers who sell shims only in 0.05mm increments, and there are suppliers who sell the full range, which is in 0.025mm increments. Original shims cost more. I found the cheapest deal on AliExpress, they sold me a set of five shims in increments of 0.025, let's say: 1.950, 1.975, 1.100, 1.125, 1.150. In any case, it is necessary to check the thickness with a micrometer, to avoid unpleasant surprises.

@@domtoretto3650 As far as I understand, and correct me if I'm wrong, Honda does not sell spare parts for the crankshaft, thay only sells a complete assembled crankshaft. And you ask if it is possible to rebuild? I think it is possible, there are workshops that specialize in this job. It is not always economical to rebuild, sometimes it is better to buy a new one, or buy used one in a good condition.

Not for sure. But in principle it is possible. Not the end of the world, with a lot of patience and work time it's not that bad. You must find the shims that fell in, it must not be left traveling in the engine. 1. It is possible that it is hiding inside the engine head. 2. It is possible that it fell into the timing chain area, maybe stuck on the chain? 3. It is possible that it stopped under the right engine case (then you have to open the right engine case) 4. And yes, it is possible that it rolled up to the crankshaft box. The openings through which it rolls in, it is possible to extract the shims through those openings, but it requires a lot of patience. A magnet caught on a very flexible wire helps, maybe a borescope? I hope it will find somewhere easy to get to. Maybe this video will give you a hint where to look, and how to prevent it from happening again (before replacing shims, it is recommended to close the engine head openings, at the top of the engine, with paper or a towel): ruclips.net/user/shortsUitxd1tHr8c?feature=shared

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 thank you bro

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 bro there is a small hole in left side of head will shim go through that

@@adarshs7456 Sir, as a rule, the openings and passageways at the engine head drain engine oil to the opening of the timing chain. Is there also an opening on the left side? Because the timing chain opening is on the right side. Above, at the center, there is the bore for the exhaust manifold, and the opening for the plug, but these two bore are in the center of the engine head and not on the side. You can ask, and also upload pictures, etc., in the forum cbr250r point net. In principle, any opening that is larger than the dimensions of the shims the shims can enter and pass through.

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 ok bro

The installation of the valve guides requires special equipment, as well as high technical ability in extracting the damaged guides, and inserting the new guides at the correct height. Even if you replace the valve guides you will still be left with the used valve seats, and you will be left with the used mating mounts for both camshafts, so it also depends what their condition too? Why did you decide to replace the guides, did you measure the inner diameter with special equipment? Or do they have noticeable mechanical damage? Replacing the main head part, the engine head, is also a matter of budget. Only you know what is right and good for you. You can also ask in CBR250R point net forum. I found this videos on RUclips too: ruclips.net/p/PLjksoAp4z0aCKk8MxtLA-80R9TjrsUMua

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7I appreciate your suggestion 👍. Purchased pre-owned cbr which was having hell of head noise. Tried to adjust shims several times but no use problem reduced to an extent. Removed head assy and sent to other place far away for head work. As told by him changed 2 guides installed same valves and cleaned completely. Mean while I installed new block piston,rocket arm, cam shafts and installed reworked valve head assy. Every thing was working fine at first start. After keeping bike for ideal run (4 hrs) gradually started hearing abnormal noise from head assy but it was minimum. Went for a ride 950kms. Started hearing very abnormal metallic sound from head assy. After returning I inspected valve clearance it was very less inlet side ( 0.06, 0.10) exhaust side ( 0.13, 0.14) adjusted shims inlet (0.13) exhaust(0.23). Still abnormal sound but less than previous one. Now after hearing to you i feel it is better to change complete head assy or second option to get used head assy. excuse for bad English grammer

@@vnnavin Thanks for sharing. A do-it-yourself hobby, like any other hobby, costs money, and does not save money: The price of the technical literature, the price of the tools, the time you have to wait for spare parts, and more time, for example: The price of the learning time, this includes learning from mistakes. For example: it happens that assembly does not go as it should, or a new fault appears. It can sometimes be a frustrating process..., But from hobby we should be enjoy…🤭😳 If you run out of time and energy for the hoby part, you can always go back to a professional mechanic you trust on, who will do the repair for you. Everything is also a matter of budget, sometimes it is not economical to fix. I am also just sharing, In the end only you know what is really best for you.

@@vnnavin P.S. For my English, I use Google Translate all the time. It's not a good English, it is what it is.

Hi sir Sorry, as far as I understand this valve does not require any maintenance. If there is no known fault associated with it, there is no reason to dismantle it. If there is a problem with the valve's electric motor, then you replace the all broken part with a new part. For disassembly you need a special Torx key that has a hole in the center. A special procedure is required to return to that valve to his place. So if you don't have the motorcycle manual don't touch it.

Sorry. I'm not sure I understood the question. The fan comes on when the engine hot. When you stand still, and raise the rpm, the engine heats up, and the fan comes to life. This is normal. Where is the problem?

72,000km

Please urgent reply sir

Sorry, I didn't understand the question. Tree black electrical wires come out of the stator and lead the AC voltage from the generator to RR. On the way, on that three black wires there is a 3 pin connector .

Sir, regarding schedules. It's a RUclips channel without profit, everything here is voluntary, it's my hobby. I share, I am not a certified mechanic. Please contact a qualified mechanic you trust on. Thank you very much.

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 After market mechanic has cut the connector of the magnet coil and wiring harnesses. That's why confusion

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 Every wire color is black, that's why I was asking whether any wire can be installed anywhere??

The chain showed no special signs of wear. But... When I changed the chain, then I measured the old one against the new one, and the new one has less freeplay. To arrange the compression, and to stop the oil leaking from the rings, it was not necessary to change the timing chain, etc. But I replaced it because the parts were not expensive, and that in relation to the price of the parts, the main trouble is the work, after all, everything was already disassembled. And the result is nice: The engine runs smoother than before. Like a new engine.

And this too: The parts was cheap, and I didn't know what I was going to find, and the shipping time was long, so I ordered in advance, just in case it was necessary. And when there are a new parts, then they are goes in even when there is no clear need to replace the used parts. Now in retrospect I can say with certainty that it would have been possible to stay with the original used chain, and only after I can say that it was still worth replacing because the fact is that the engine is quieter.

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 Hello, can you determine if the engine now running smoother is because of timing chain replacement or the clutch plates ? Or is it something that you cant credit one part of the two.

@@RRP1992 I attribute the reduction in noise, and the smoothness in which the engine works only to the parts that were replaced in the Engine Head. Each part contributed its part in reducing the noise, it is about closing gaps the size of microns. The used parts were still within spec. The main job of the repair concerned the problem with the cylinder, the piston and the rings, and also the polishing of the valve seats.

Hi. I have no experience with a similar problem. What causes the explosion is unburned fuel, which goes into the boiling exhaust, and explodes in the exhaust instead of inside the cylinder. Is it possible you have a spark leak? Maybe there a leak of spark because there are bad contacts in the cable coming from the coil? Maybe a bad contact in the components inside the plug CAP? You need a patience. Changing parts without understanding what you are doing does not always help to solve the problem. If you can't get it right, don't hesitate to go to a qualified mechanic you trust on.

Hi. You can try, but it's not like I'm giving advice, I'm not a certified mechanic, I'm just giving some knowledge I have. And you can also try to upload a post in the excellent forum: CBR250R dot NET

Bearings and seals are a generic shelf product. Several solutions can be adapted to the mechanical dimensions of the Honda's steering shaft. Honda sells set of bearing and seal solution, but you can choose another solution. This is what I did when I replaced the ball bearings to tapered bearing.

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 so i need to do size comparison

@@santanubandyopadhyay2189 You have to compare the dimensions to the original bearing, and a certain knowledge of mechanical engineering is also required. Even when you buying the kit I bought, the installation of this kit requires a type of information that is not in the Honda's servic manual. The bearing I chose is installed a little differently from OEM bearing. And sometimes it turns out that you learn from your mistakes, and pay the price of learning from your mistakes. That's how it is in a DIY hobby, like any hobby, mechanics DIY also costs money, and does not save money. Or you hand over the bearing job to a qualified mechanic who will do the work for you. it is what it is.

Because this is not a promotional vid. I paid full price for it, it was not cheap, but I think it turned out really good! www.amazon.co.uk/Puig-5643H-Z-Racing-Screen-Smoke/dp/B005J9G4CA

12:57

~66,000km

i have it. tell me your email ID

No, at least right now you don't need to replace the starter motor. Troubleshooting is one of the complicated things. If there is no electricity at all, the fuses should be checked, and replaced as necessary. Then check battery. If necessary then charge the battery. A battery one hour after charging, after being disconnected from the charger, should hold at least 12.7 volts. Troubleshooting this is complex and complicated. You can try to get more information in the cbr250r dot net forum. And if you don't have time, patience, or basic knowledge of electricity and mechanics, it's best to contact a licensed mechanic you trust on.

Maybe you mean a video like this? ruclips.net/video/V2fFfHPkLO8/видео.html OR THIS ruclips.net/video/V2fFfHPkLO8/видео.html

Honda does not allow a cylinder to be repaired by reboring it, because Honda does not provide oversized piston and rings set. I understand that in the spare parts market you can order a piston and rings in oversizes(not OEM). In my used cylinder, I think it would be possible to do a light honing, replace a piston and new rings, but I decided to replace the cylinder as well. Regarding purchasing spare parts independently, it's a hobby within a hobby, you do shopping, and there are the stores you learn to prefer more, but it varies from country to country, and there is a matter of warranty, and delivery times...

See here: 19:16 I used a wooden block with a groove, the measurements are in the video. I used the OLD seal, and I also used the support with the other hand. And it worked well for me. There are several ways to improvise a DIY tool, possible with a pvc pipe... and yes, it's not very expensive, and it is possible to order the special tool to insert these seals.

According to Honda, the official color name for our model is:: NH303M (MATAXIS GRAYMETALLIC) Look at the link PART No;2, 3 - The two GRIPS www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2013/cbr250r-ac-cbr250r/seat Besides, old colors fade, so the best way to choose a color is to go to a color specialist with a sample, I went to the specialist with the heat muffler shield, and he matched me a color with the name is in the video: X MAX 28 0:05

היי. התחביב שלי מצומצם לאינטרנט. השיתוף זה בחינם, אני לא מרוויח מזה כסף. אני לא מזמין פניות אישיות. אני גם לא מעודד לעשה זאת בעצמך, שזה תחביב מקסים, אבל כמו כל תחביב הוא עולה כסף, ולא חוסך כסף. הלימוד, כלי העבודה... הספרים... לימוד זה גם לימוד מטעויות... זה הכל עולה כסף, והזמן, ולפעמים ההמתנה הארוכה לחלקים... . אין לי עניין להכשיל אף אחד ולסבך אותו באיזה תיקון שבסוף לא יצליח. זה תחביב. לשאול שאלות על האופנוע אתה יכול לשאול כאן, לא חייב קשר ישיר למה שבסרטון. אבל שיהיה ברור, אני חובב, אני משתף, ואני לא מייעץ, , ומה שאתה עושה במידע זה רק על אחריותך. חוץ מזה אם אתה בעניין של אנגלית, יש את הפורום cbr250r נקודה קום, ויוצא לי לכתוב, לשתף, וללמוד מאחרים, גם בפורום הזה, אבל אני לא כותב שם בעברית, רק באנגלית(אני נעזר בתרגום של גוגל). בפורום cdr250r מרוכז הרבה מידע מעניין עבור חובבים. אם אתה לא חזק בעניין של תחביב עשה זאת בעצמך, ואם אין לך רקע טכני או ניסיון קודם במכונאות אופנועים, הדרך הזולה, והבטיחותית ביותר היא כמובן למצוא מכונאי מקצועי שאתה סומך עליו.

Thank you sir♥️👍

Hi. I am currently with the automatic. According to popular opinion, the automatic is replaced every 25,000 km. The manual requires more professional attention, and inspection at shorter intervals, but it does not wear out, it is for life time. The problem with the manual is that the damage may outweigh the benefit, you need to know how to adjust it. The manual can be built on the basis of the automatic tensioner, when the dowel is replaced with an M6 screw and nut. To create the manual tensioner yourself you can find instructions on the cbr250r dot com website.

Actually I have replaced tensioner that too i completed only 28k

Knocking sound remains same sometimes

1. To check the rectifier is to check its diodes. at 09:30 In one direction there is no current passing at all, in the other direction resistance is measured. 2. The regulator is measured according to the output voltage when it is connected to the generator. At 5000rpm the output voltage must not exceed 15.5V, 05:25 but usually the bulbs burn out, and then you know there is a problem with too high voltage.

The coils is checked at idle rpm, the voltage on the battery should be greater than 13.2V at around 14V. 13:14

Thanks for the good advice, and the kind words. I will try your good advice next time... on my Innova 125? Thanks. The most important thing is to be careful not to destroy these valve guides.

No. Mineral oil, in my opinion, should not be used. But I happened to hear about washing engine assemblies from the inside with cheap oil. Washing is a short process, a few minutes, maybe a really short ride, let's say 2 kilometers. But even then I wouldn't use mineral oil, maybe semi-synthetic Motul 5000 or 5100, which are cheaper than 7100. There are semi-synthetic oils adapted to motorcycles, which are relatively cheap. And after flushing, you replace with high-quality oil.

I usually use ipone or putoline Which oil would be the first oil to be added after engine overhaul? What do you recommend?..

@@alier7607 Sorry I don't know, both brand are well-known and good oil companies. If you will tell me from each company, what type of oil it is, I can try to check the specifications for you. But it's not that I'm advising you what to do, I'm happy to share and help. Honda recommends a semi-synthetic oil, which is adapted to the JASO MA2 motorcycle standard, and that it be semi-synthetic of high quality, because there are also low-quality semi-synthetic oils.

You can reuse it and see. Hi. The gasket is a metal gasket. In order to seal, two conditions must be met: One, it must be flat, if you accidentally got a bend, it will no longer seal. The second, the gasket has a thickness that must be greater than the thickness of the tin itself, the additional thickness is due to a special bend along the edge of the seal, but usually, after one use, this bend is already non-existent, because the gasket is pressed, and then the gasket is no longer good. That's why the manufacturer recommends always replacing the gasket and the filter together. The gasket is very cheap. If you don't have a gasket, under no circumstances use sealing glue. You can put the used gasket back in its place, and if you see that there is a slight leak, then buy a new gasket and replace it. What should NOT to be done: 1. To use a sealing glue is forbidden. 2. To try tighten the screws tighter, it is forbidden. 3. And don't make a mistake and put the filter in the wrong direction.

Hi sir. A third episode will be released perhaps during the next month, and it is on the topic of polishing the valves. If sll the series will completed it will have total of 6 or 7 episodes, but I can't guarantee anything.

Hi Sir the sensor checks a range between 50 and 80 degrees by spec. I didn't understand your question, maybe you could clarify please. Thanks.

@@mycbr250rdmotorcycling7 What fault did the motorcycle have?

@@oistepoSC Ah. OK, You're right. No, my used and old sensor had no problem. The exchange was carried out as part of preventive care, because: I received a second-hand motorcycle, an 8-year-old motorcycle, with 66,000 km, and in the last two years before that it also suffered from neglect. So I replaced the temperature sensor, the work is easy, and the part is cheap.

On my motorcycle, when it took a little time to start warming up, it started to pay, then when the engine was hot, then the problem was no longer there, it would go away as if it were a failure in linearity

Hi sir Troubleshooting requires a lot of knowledge and experience. The tests are scientific. You can also replace parts randomly and hope for the best, this is less recommended. Is there electricity? Is there a starter? Is there a spark? Is there any fuel? If the engine does not work, the battery should be charged from time to time with a controlled charger. Sorry, Sir I don't know you or the motorcycle. Repairing on your own using the do-it-yourself method is a hobby, it doesn't save money, it costs money, the cost of studying, the cost of tools... If you don't have enough time, etc... don't hesitate to contact a professional mechanic.