Twenty-Year-Long 8b+ Boulder Problem Finally Climbed | Stone Kingdom, Ep. 2
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- Опубликовано: 5 янв 2014
- www.epictv.com
After twenty years, this unclimbed problem, The Rail, Font 8b+ has been worked, worked again and finally has a first ascent from Dan Varian.
'The Rail' at Bowden Doors, Northumberland had been a project for over twenty years. In 2011, Dan Varian first looked at the bouldering project line and began working it. After two years of attempts, many setbacks and lots of petrol, Dan climbed the line at Font 8b+.
A brilliant first ascent.
Director: Nick Brown
Producer: Nick Brown
Athletes: Dan Varian
Twenty-Year-Long 8b+ Boulder Problem Finally Climbed | Stone Kingdom, Ep. 2
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why is everyone hating this so much? one of the hardest boulders in the uk and on great rock. just because its not jumping across triangles and doesn't have any dynos in
If people could actually see this bouldering problem in real life, you'd understand how interesting it is. It's the fact that those holds are BARELY usable and yet, almost like magic, he manages to combine these holds into a sequence leading to the top. A similar looking problem (but not in the same style), would be The Singularity in Squamish (unrepeated as well). ALL THE HOLDS ARE INVISIBLE! Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, etc. have all tried to repeat it... None of them have come close.
Amazing video!
+Snackchez ye the afford is great, but it's still an ugly line xd
I was up at Bowden yesterday, this video doesn't really show how wildly overhanging The Rail actually is. It looks completely unusable!
That's the worst and best feeling in the world. Working on a project for so long. and then FINALLY sending it. But then you realize. . . . you just climbed it and have to look for a new one. lol
until you solve one problem-its the vital one
i don´t know why everyone is hating this video... i find it inspireing that a person sticks to a problem and doesn´t give up!
(also i think the boulder problem is really cool) :D
I don't like how annoyed he gets. It's about having fun.
I don't like how annoyed you get. RUclips is about having fun :|
R18333 I'm not hating myself but I think that may be why others are
@@Roger-qu4qk Are you a climber? If not, you could never understand the feeling of going after a line YEAR AFTER YEAR.... have you ever persevered over something you've been attempting for 8 years? You dont understand how "annoying" it can be to see a season end, knowing you have to wait another year to try? Obviously NOT.
For me it is the best climbing video ever. I love you. Thank you!
great video inspiring . Bouldering is not my sport but the level of commitment never mind physical condition has to be admired . Bravo to the determined without who we would have a very different world.
It's really impressive what you can achieve with perseverance! Well done! :)
Incredible perseverance. Great work.
You deserved that mate,you nailed it!
commitment to goals or tasks are always inspiring to watch speaking for myself
That was incredible. Great video.
There's some dimwit postings on here, but it's the internet........ The 'rail' at Bowden is an obvious line (noted a lot longer than 20 years ago) that a few of the best boulderers in the UK aspired to do, and that even fewer were capable of.
Dan's ascent is notable; a combination of someone climbing at the very top of their game, on a really tenuous feature, catching the right conditions both on the crag and physically.
If you are unfamiliar with the crag and area, the 'problem' ends at a junction with an old Bob Smith route from the late 70s, Rising Damp, (E4 6b), at which point the relative difficulties cease. I can assure you that none of the locals thought it necessary that he topped out, and that in an area with pretty stout high and sky balling ethics.
Dan's grades are usually on the conservative side, he spent a lot of time on this and I'm not aware of anyone else investing any real time on it? (Itself a testament to it's difficulty).
+yuubetuuber r Why? By who's rules? a great number of problems are finished on an obvious jug. You can present your opinion to all the sport climbers in the world who clip in and lower off a route without topping out and tell Ondra that both Change and Move are not legitimate ascents, nor are quite a number of great problems around the world.
I loved it. It's like a mandala. Amazing climber.
The sit start would definitely add quite a bit to this one. The moves look like they'd be awesome too, underclinging out that crescent shorta shaped piece down and right at 4:34
+ejmac11 ah dang dude you're right that looks rad
That's a problem called Manta Right Hand, think it goes at about 6B.
@@thesvenvids7708 it's very crumbly so constantly doing one of the variations of Manta to try and project The Rail wouldn't be good for the rock
Awesome man good job !!!!!!
Well done!!
Amazing climb, but his face at 3:19 good effort man.
Song starting at 1:41 is EvenS - Ayato for anyone wondering.
Congratulations 🎉
Amazing! Wow!
It's a lesson in perseverance.
Very strong lad
voluntad férrea, felicidades!
bravo
lovely jubbly !
how a climbing flick should be! shows the process of projecting very well
+Philipp Lennartz
that's Climbing? He went maybe 20 feet.
What is the music on this video?
cool top out!
Very beautiful line. If only it had a top out (or it was not too high for a ropeless attempt).
awesome
Respekt cool!
People seem to have a simplistic mindset when watching this video. They think that he was the only one who kept climbing this route and became obsessed with it. Heck, what a bunch of simple minded morons. A problem exists for the purpose of being solved. In the video description, they clearly said he's the first one to ascend, not "the only one to climb" it, and it has an official difficulty tag, so it's not just a passing problem that only one guy tried to solve. This is the real commitment. It's about the strength of your fingers to hold such small, loose edges as well as the well controlled balance here, anyone who's climbed for a while would know that little detail. It's not always about the jump and dyno, sometimes the hardest routes require the control of small movements, and set of balancing skills, not explosive strength.
4:41 gotta get comfy first
4:50
суставы сильно болят?
OCD... I still say it.
At 0m...
What a shame that after so much effort the climb doesn't even top out.
open project...
Jason Kehl Ohhhh, shi. You aren't working it, are you Jason?
Thought the exact same thing. But I suspect the top probably doesn't have any useful holds to get to the top, otherwise he'll need to redo it (I'm sure he'll love that).
He was going to top out and then decided not to. I'm sure it's not because of lack of holds, some people just don't see it as worth it to top something out where the upper half is much easier in difficulty than the lower. Also some ppl are just afraid of highballs, sometimes even really strong climbers. THe bottom would def add a lot more to this line than the top would.
@@ejmac11 If anybody is scared of highballs it isn't Dan. Watch Life On Hold.
More like 2 years
I would of moved a long to a easier part of the rock :D but thats why I dont make vids nice job your a strong lad
Why does he always wear the same green shirt?
Is the name of the problem "Twenty-Year-Long" or did it take 20 consecutive years of trying to finally link all the moves?
The problem is called 'The Rail', the video is called that because it's been tried for ages by many strong people and Dan was the first person to do it.
"Ahh you fucker"
So he got to a ledge then stopped going all the way to the top? And he waited several years to do that? I don't get it. Why not climb to the top.
He solved the problem he was working on, going further without a rope would be extremely dangerous
I assume the problem is weather affecting conditions on the rock face
(long periods of rain?) so it is unclimbable for long periods.
4:42 look at his left hand😂😂😱
im confused why did he campus it ??
Cus hes a ducking beast
he explains why right at the end..
Years in the making and didn't even bother to top out?? I must be getting old...…….(What's with the ladder??)
He should have topped out.
come to bowden and see why lol
Haters gonna hate
..that was it???
Epic? I must look up that word again
That's it?
No top
Take a dump.....ditch that extra weight.
Is that literally the easiest way up
Yeah.. could just walk around it ey?
very ugly line
Yeah everything about this is just frustrating. Still, can't knock the difficulty factor.
looked like a hard campus part when you got up to the ''bad holds of the route'' but it is impressive for sure those moves with such poor holds, not many that can campus such moves
This was hard but not my hardest by far
That was it? 7 minutes of video for this? :D
Aww.i guess he'll do it next time when he tops it out
not worth it, shitty route
I agree. I was not so impressed by this line. Maybe if it were a true, pure line on a boulder.
ejmac11 I can't understand this, I have seen this line and it is very obvious and very aesthetic in an amazing position with really interesting moves. Many of the UK's best problems are on crags rather than boulders so I really don't see how it being on a boulder would make it 'pure' (as if such a term has meaning in this context) or more impressive since a top out would add nothing to it, topping this is possible but unnecessary since there is a very obvious finishing rail, I don't see this as any different to clipping in to an anchor point and dropping off on a sport route rather than topping out. A historic 8B+ at one of our premier climbing venues is certainly worth the effort!
Arthur Morris
The sit start looks like it would add a lot of value. Working your way up on underclings. I wonder what grade that would go at, maybe 8C.
I'm a little confused? I thought the goal was to climb the top of the rock?
+Xiao Xiae Yeah, not worth it
Matthew Mathews A common misconception
And he gets no money, no trophy, no medal....
🤓
all that to not even topout…lam af
20 years for THAT?! pfft waste of time. was like a 5 hold problem
Wade Richmire 2 years according to the description. 20 years since people have started trying to climb it, until Dan finally did.
obsessive compulsive.
plutoplatters you are a moron sir
Boring problem but we'll done.
It would be nice if you at least showed the whole problem from a distant view, instead of just that one angle every time.
As a boulderer myself, I usually like to climb to the top, not jump off, especially the first time I do a problem. I'm kind of wondering why he didn't go all the way up, and I guess, since you didn't bother to show the whole thing, we will never know, but anyways, he didn't top out, so is that even an ascent???
Lynn Hill would cruise that like nothing!
So would Adam Ondra an Chris Sharma and some other cimbers, but they didn't.
John Buchan Because it not a very inspiring line
How can they rate it as an 8b+, when it's just pour strength, without any technical hard moves ?
+Mohammed Alnakhli Is that a joke? Because not one element of that made any sense at all since it is clearly not simply 'pour strength' and relies heavily on body position and footwork, making it technical; the lack of either of which would still not mean it cannot be graded at 8B+.
when you have nothing better to do with your life
This is actually fairly easy. I have done it a few times myself, and when damp. He is finding it so difficult because of his insistance on staying completely perpedicular to the ground. If you allow yourself to follow to the crack, so that your body follows the shape of the handholds, it is not too bad. I would put this at 7C+
The odds of this being bullshit is 100/101
Epic not found. Didn't even top that out! Better luck next time.
Topping could lead to injury if he falls.
He didn't complete it. That's like climbing 90% of mount Everest but going home when nearly at the top.
Yes I do... And a problem that doesn't top out is inferior to one that does. So much so that most people wont even bother getting on it.
Funny -- I can't remember ever seeing a top-out problem in any of the Bouldering World Cup vids I've watched.
Bishop? How about 'Evilution - to the lip'? ruclips.net/video/jXmQ8ZRlHUY/видео.html
Now his life's complete. Get the .357 out.
I know your comment is 7 years old but what the hell. Why would you ever say something like that to someone?
Looks like it's just a petty little edge on a rock that someone happened to become obsessed about. Doesn't look nearly interesting or mentally challenging enough to me to be considered a proper bouldering problem.
+AGH331 you're a real superman
+AGH331 That's all bouldering is, it's people who get obsessed with petty little edges on rocks. As far as 'petty little edges' go, this is an amazing one. You don't really sound like a climber so I will let you off dismissing it as 'not proper'.
Arthur Morris I do climb and boulder (albeit not nearly as good as I would like to), but I simply don't see the point in this. It's just one edge. For me bouldering is a combination of all that makes climbing great, and a mental aspect, the challenge to figure a problem out. This guy had this little edge figured out long ago, he just became obsessed about it, and that seems pretty weird to me.
AGH331
If you don't see the point in this then I don't see how you understand any aspect of bouldering. That 'edge' is a feature that has about 4 (barely) usuable holds on it, that is exactly the same as every other boulder problem. All boulder problems are are a feature or a set of features which can be climbed, that is it. Saying 'this guy had this little edge figured out' can apply to every single boulder problem out there. Paul Robinson just has those little edges figured out when he did lucid dreaming, Daniel Woods just had those little rails figured out when he did The Game, Nalle just had those little edges when he did Bugelisen sit. See how pointless it is to say that? Go to font and tell people that "all Ghecko assis is is a few slopers, that is it" because you dismiss so many problems by belittling them because the features are not garish and broad and the climbing is stylised and not varied.
+AGH331 That is bouldering. End of.
Is it just me, or is this pursuit a totally ridiculous waste of time? Well I guess it is no more ridiculous than hitting a little white ball around a field for 5 hours, or riding a bicycle a 100 miles, or running an ultra marathon, or numerous other leisure activities, but it does seem particularly silly.
You mean bouldering? It's a mentally and physically challenging body weight exercise. This is just one example of a boulder problem.
He is not inspiring at all...
This is the reason why I decided to quit rock climbing and devote my energies to classical music instead; it's just a fucking rock.
mangore623 I decided to quit classical music and devote my energies to rock climbing instead; it's just fucking noise.
Daniel Fishback Uh-huh. No rock climbers escape debilitating arthritis. Enjoy your future!
mangore623 No one escapes death. Enjoy your future!
+mangore623 That's just fucking noise.
Meester Fishy haha brilliant
Jesus that was terrible
There must be a million other routes up this. Stupid is as... Not impressed. Should just put up a huge sheet of glass with a pit of alligators below it. Then they'd find a route. Out the gators' arshole. :)