Some people were meant to be teachers. After watching this video, I subscribed simply because I know that whatever I’m seeking to learn that is on this channel, it will be explained in such a clear and concise way. Thank you Peterson Brothers Automation
I am glad that you said that the current (measured in Amps) was the "amount" of electricity flowing in the circuit. Now while this is hardly a technical word it explains the concept well. You also said that the voltage "pushes" the electricity through the circuit. I would have explained that the load will "draw" whatever current that it requires from the charger and the charger must therefore be equal to the demand (or something along those lines). Well done for a clear and no nonsense explanation.
Truly excellent video. Clear and concise with no wasted words or cutesy music or mugging for the camera. Well done. I will be checking out your channel.
Don't comment on RUclips videos often, but videos this concise and informative deserve recognition. I needed to know about AC adapters and now I do! Great job, super informative video, exactly what I needed! Thanks!
Great info! I like the 4 point wrap up at the end. I'm a musician and end up buying, breaking, losing, cursing & saving a lot of these! Nice to know how to match them up and see if they are worth saving in the first place. Thanks!
Thank you for explaining this in depth. ❤ seen other say that a 4.8 V is ok for a 4.5 V item and having seen power supply burnt up I wanted to be safe.
I'm here in the states so you already know I'm using Common-US, 117VAC/60Hz So my three AC adapters rated as "Class2" no, not class ll -- but "Class2" and there's a big difference in their applications. With Class2 you are suppose to be as close to the power as possible. all 3 supply: 12VDC, 1.0A, 12W. They came with 7'ft of 22ga. pigtails. Can I cut the adapters open and change the pigtails to 16ga wire so I can run over the 7'ft mark??? with these adapters you run into voltage drops over 7'ft. But If I understand right and my math formulas are correct, 16ga pigtail will allow a max run of 48'ft. and continue sustaining the 12VDV 1.0A 12W. Yeah, I could run 117VAC extension cords but that's sloppy, However, (Legally --NFPA Sec. 590.3 (B), clearly states there is a 90-day limit on temporary power cords. Get rid of the cord or install a permeant fixture. I could install an outlet but that's added expense and time and working in tight crawlspaces. Any suggestions???
Wow.! I learned so much watching this video. I really need help with a device. The person who made the device passed away and the new owner is MIA for past 2 years so I'm unable to order a replacement power cord. It's a micro current device / a small portable computer -like device with a rechargeable internal battery. The back of the BIotic Wave /machine lists; 3.6V DC 1,900 mAh / NiHM It' has a barrel /pin plug. No one seems to be able to tell me how to replace this charger can you help me figure this out? You seem like a real wizard with this kind of stuff. HELP
Hey great question! I can't answer with 100% certainty, because I don't know the device... but, there are some things that are more likely. That kind of battery is super popular for portable computers, radios, RC cars, etc. If it is rechargeable inside the device, that means there is a charge controller circuit, so you don't need to provide exactly 3.6 volts. I would start with a 5 volt plug-in supply. It may need 9 or 12, but start with 5 to reduce the risk of damage. However, it is harder to find 5 volt plugins with barrel plugs, they are usually USB ends for phones and tablets. But if you can find a 5 volt one, start there. For the polarity, center positive is the most likely (no way to be 100% sure unless it's printed on the case somewhere). That's because if the outside of the plug is powered, it could damage anything it touches. If the +v is inside the barrel, it's much harder to accidentally poke something in there to get damaged. So, center positive 5 volt supply. Start there and see if you get any indicator that the battery is charging, like turn it on after an hour or so and see if the charge has increased. If not, move up to a 6 or 9 volt supply. Then a 12 volt. I bet you can find ones like this at a thrift store, I see them all the time in places like that.
Hi thank your for your response! Yes, it's an internal NiHM battery. The back of the machine states : 3.6V DC 1,900 mAh / NiHM It's a spa device /micro current machine which runs like a mini computer. I rec'd a photo from a person who thought this was the correct charger for the device, but I don't understand how that could be ? as their charger states: 18V DC and only 350 mA. The device was extremely expensive like a car engine so I don't want to ruin the machine. Charger states: BIO-Medical AC ADAPTOR MODEL 1835 INPUT :120VAC 60 Hz 15W OUTPUT 18VDC 350 mA class 2 transformer Can this be correct?
@@RoxanKing I just did a quick search on that part number, and I find stats that are indeed 18 volt, 350 milliamp output, and it is center positive. I would still suggest, if you have any doubt, start with a low voltage, center-positive power supply. Too little voltage will not hurt it, but too much will for sure! Up to a 9, then 12, and if that still fails to charge it, then 18 seems to be the ticket. Also, remember that too much voltage will hurt the device, but too much current will not. It will only draw the current that it needs. But do not use too much voltage. Hope this has helped :)
I have a 3 volt DC watch winder.....It will take an ac adapter....problem is there is no information on the "Rotations Brand" watch winder. There is no info on the web for this item. I don't want to burn it out...I have a 3 volt 200MA dc adapter any help?
SO TRUE! I head over to thrift stores all the time to find the right adapters and cables for various projects! And I also keep them in clear storage boxes so I can immediately check and see if I have the right ones. OCD maybe???
If the voltage must match between the adapter and device, why does the charging adapter that came with show different voltage than its rechargeable device? Charging batteries are a different thing?
How can you test the polarity of an electronic device that you've lost the power adaptor for? I have a video mixer, I know what the voltage is for the the mixer and amps, but there is no indicator on the device that states the polarity for the power adaptor (tip and center). I have a few power adaptors I can use, I can reverse the polarity by cutting the adaptor and switching, however I need to know what the device it self uses. Can I use a volt meter to test the male barrel end with out power running through the device?
I AM NO EXPERT AND LEARNED A FEW THINGS HERE. I CANT IMAGINE THAT IF IT DOES NOT STATE ON THE DEVICE IT IS ANYTHING LESS THAN THE STANDARD CENTER POSITIVE. JMHO
Oh! BTW, I am in Sydney, Australia where we have exactly the same problems with different voltages and connectors thus creating confusion for NOTHING practical!!
Can I use C DC 15V 1A / 2A Switching Power Supply? It claims it can power devices from 0.3A 0.5A 1A 1.2A 1.4A 1.5A 2Amp , all are Suitable. My requirement is to charge a Vacuum which requires 15V and 400mA
Yes indeed. You can use that supply for any device that needs 15 volts, and consumes less than 2 amps. 400 mA is no problem. Be sure the polarity is correct; check out the part about center-positive vs center-negative. That is really important.
Wattage is just current multiplied by voltage. So take that 24 watts, and divide it by the voltage of the adapter. If it's a 12 volt adapter, then you would get 2 amps of output MAX. If it's a 6 volt adapter, 4 amps of output, etc. If you try and draw more current, then it may overheat, fail, or simply shut off.
I have a Dewalt jumpstarter.On the back of the jumpstarter it say the input volts is 14.5.One of my ac adapter is 12v.Is it ok to use 12v to charge the Dewalt jumpstarter.Can I use the 16v input ac adapter It's called Dx aeps14 ?
I would not use a 16 volt input. Looks like that model can be charged from a vehicle's DC accessory plugs which supply 12 volts, and it is charged using a 12 volt output adapter (center positive). 14.5 would be the max voltage that the car's DC plugs would supply, but you won't find any common power supply rated for that voltage. 12 volts should be the correct voltage, but as for the current rating, the higher the better. Likely for a charge this size, it would need 1-2 amp output capacity, and will still take a good long time to charge.
Careful on 'input' vs 'output' If the adapter says 0.5A input, then it probably has a much higher output current. So the number you need to find is the output. If the camera needs 1A, that's the bare minimum, so as long as it's than 1A , it will work fine. - The power you put in is roughly the power you get out. So if you put in 120V at 0.5A, that's 60W, then if it's a 12V output, that would give 5A output. This sounds like a laptop charger adapter or something? That value seems a little high for most small adapters.
I am sure you will delete my comment, but here goes anyway!!!! The ONLY reason that Lemax changed its voltage over the years is to purposely create this confusion and to force folks to buy Lemax branded adaptors. It also explains why they have different sizes of connectors !! The truth of the matter is that the industry SHOULD have set a standard which they all agreed upon. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason to use 3V versus 5V, or 4.5V versus 6V, or even 9V versus 12V - these voltages are all SAFE for use by people not professionally knowledgeable in ELECTRICITY, but who would get confused between the different voltages. Lemax used to use 12V when it was lit with an INCANDESCENT bulb, but LED lighting is better with 3V. Added confusion is created by using different size and styles of connectors, thus making it harder for the average person to understand the reasons why and thus they have to pay a huge price to stick with an INDUSTRY STANDARD!!! I have been using 5V USB power and connectors because they ALL USE the standard Computer/Mobile Phone connectors!! Because of tis 5V USB cables are much cheaper and easier to find and thus practically UNIVERSAL!!! Have fun, stay safe, but learn the FACTS!!!!
Some people were meant to be teachers. After watching this video, I subscribed simply because I know that whatever I’m seeking to learn that is on this channel, it will be explained in such a clear and concise way. Thank you Peterson Brothers Automation
You are welcome.
I learn some stuff, so I make some videos of stuff. I just get so excited about learning new things, I can't help it!!
You said exactly what was on my mind!
I am glad that you said that the current (measured in Amps) was the "amount" of electricity flowing in the circuit. Now while this is hardly a technical word it explains the concept well. You also said that the voltage "pushes" the electricity through the circuit. I would have explained that the load will "draw" whatever current that it requires from the charger and the charger must therefore be equal to the demand (or something along those lines).
Well done for a clear and no nonsense explanation.
Thabks for this excellent video I truly appreciate the concise nature and the fact you get to the point immediately
Truly excellent video. Clear and concise with no wasted words or cutesy music or mugging for the camera. Well done. I will be checking out your channel.
Don't comment on RUclips videos often, but videos this concise and informative deserve recognition. I needed to know about AC adapters and now I do! Great job, super informative video, exactly what I needed! Thanks!
Great explanation. Just goes to show that flashy videos aren't better than knowledge and a good explanation. Thank you!
Very well explained.
Great info! I like the 4 point wrap up at the end. I'm a musician and end up buying, breaking, losing, cursing & saving a lot of these! Nice to know how to match them up and see if they are worth saving in the first place. Thanks!
Excellent explanation of Current supply.
Thanks for explaining it easy and right
Thank you for explaining this in depth. ❤ seen other say that a 4.8 V is ok for a 4.5 V item and having seen power supply burnt up I wanted to be safe.
Great video
Good luck in your channel, love your videos
I'm here in the states so you already know I'm using Common-US, 117VAC/60Hz So my three AC adapters rated as "Class2" no, not class ll -- but "Class2" and there's a big difference in their applications. With Class2 you are suppose to be as close to the power as possible.
all 3 supply: 12VDC, 1.0A, 12W. They came with 7'ft of 22ga. pigtails. Can I cut the adapters open and change the pigtails to 16ga wire so I can run over the 7'ft mark??? with these adapters you run into voltage drops over 7'ft. But If I understand right and my math formulas are correct, 16ga pigtail will allow a max run of 48'ft. and continue sustaining the 12VDV 1.0A 12W. Yeah, I could run 117VAC extension cords but that's sloppy, However, (Legally --NFPA Sec. 590.3 (B), clearly states there is a 90-day limit on temporary power cords. Get rid of the cord or install a permeant fixture. I could install an outlet but that's added expense and time and working in tight crawlspaces. Any suggestions???
Thanks. How about DC current? Follow the same rule ?
Wow.! I learned so much watching this video. I really need help with a device. The person who made the device passed away and the new owner is MIA for past 2 years so I'm unable to order a replacement power cord. It's a micro current device / a small portable computer -like device with a rechargeable internal battery. The back of the BIotic Wave /machine lists; 3.6V DC 1,900 mAh / NiHM It' has a barrel /pin plug. No one seems to be able to tell me how to replace this charger can you help me figure this out? You seem like a real wizard with this kind of stuff. HELP
Hey great question! I can't answer with 100% certainty, because I don't know the device... but, there are some things that are more likely.
That kind of battery is super popular for portable computers, radios, RC cars, etc. If it is rechargeable inside the device, that means there is a charge controller circuit, so you don't need to provide exactly 3.6 volts.
I would start with a 5 volt plug-in supply. It may need 9 or 12, but start with 5 to reduce the risk of damage. However, it is harder to find 5 volt plugins with barrel plugs, they are usually USB ends for phones and tablets. But if you can find a 5 volt one, start there.
For the polarity, center positive is the most likely (no way to be 100% sure unless it's printed on the case somewhere). That's because if the outside of the plug is powered, it could damage anything it touches. If the +v is inside the barrel, it's much harder to accidentally poke something in there to get damaged.
So, center positive 5 volt supply. Start there and see if you get any indicator that the battery is charging, like turn it on after an hour or so and see if the charge has increased. If not, move up to a 6 or 9 volt supply. Then a 12 volt. I bet you can find ones like this at a thrift store, I see them all the time in places like that.
@@PetersonBrosAutomation
Hi thank your for your response! Yes, it's an internal NiHM battery. The back of the machine states : 3.6V DC 1,900 mAh / NiHM It's a spa device /micro current machine which runs like a mini computer. I rec'd a photo from a person who thought this was the correct charger for the device, but I don't understand how that could be ? as their charger states: 18V DC and only 350 mA. The device was extremely expensive like a car engine so I don't want to ruin the machine. Charger states: BIO-Medical AC ADAPTOR MODEL 1835 INPUT :120VAC 60 Hz 15W OUTPUT 18VDC 350 mA class 2 transformer Can this be correct?
@@RoxanKing I just did a quick search on that part number, and I find stats that are indeed 18 volt, 350 milliamp output, and it is center positive.
I would still suggest, if you have any doubt, start with a low voltage, center-positive power supply. Too little voltage will not hurt it, but too much will for sure! Up to a 9, then 12, and if that still fails to charge it, then 18 seems to be the ticket.
Also, remember that too much voltage will hurt the device, but too much current will not. It will only draw the current that it needs. But do not use too much voltage.
Hope this has helped :)
Thsnks to the information 👍
I have a 3 volt DC watch winder.....It will take an ac adapter....problem is there is no information on the "Rotations Brand" watch winder. There is no info on the web for this item. I don't want to burn it out...I have a 3 volt 200MA dc adapter any help?
Please suggest donating spare cords (that work) to a thrift store for parts junkies like me instead of throwing them away ❤️
SO TRUE!
I head over to thrift stores all the time to find the right adapters and cables for various projects! And I also keep them in clear storage boxes so I can immediately check and see if I have the right ones. OCD maybe???
IMAGINE THE NEW PROTOCOL...THROW IT AWAY WHEN IT TURNS 3. WE CAN FIX IT GOES AWAY WHEN ALL OLDER TOOLS FADE... ITS A DAM SHAME;'))
If the voltage must match between the adapter and device, why does the charging adapter that came with show different voltage than its rechargeable device? Charging batteries are a different thing?
How can you test the polarity of an electronic device that you've lost the power adaptor for? I have a video mixer, I know what the voltage is for the the mixer and amps, but there is no indicator on the device that states the polarity for the power adaptor (tip and center). I have a few power adaptors I can use, I can reverse the polarity by cutting the adaptor and switching, however I need to know what the device it self uses. Can I use a volt meter to test the male barrel end with out power running through the device?
I AM NO EXPERT AND LEARNED A FEW THINGS HERE. I CANT IMAGINE THAT IF IT DOES NOT STATE ON THE DEVICE IT IS ANYTHING LESS THAN THE STANDARD CENTER POSITIVE. JMHO
Oh! BTW, I am in Sydney, Australia where we have exactly the same problems with different voltages and connectors thus creating confusion for NOTHING practical!!
Can I use C DC 15V 1A / 2A Switching Power Supply? It claims it can power devices from 0.3A 0.5A 1A 1.2A 1.4A 1.5A 2Amp , all are Suitable. My requirement is to charge a Vacuum which requires 15V and 400mA
Yes indeed. You can use that supply for any device that needs 15 volts, and consumes less than 2 amps. 400 mA is no problem.
Be sure the polarity is correct; check out the part about center-positive vs center-negative. That is really important.
Hi, whats a M size tip ? Thx
what about the wattage. my adapter say 24 watts MAX. i have a audio interface that i maxed out inputs and outputs.
Wattage is just current multiplied by voltage. So take that 24 watts, and divide it by the voltage of the adapter.
If it's a 12 volt adapter, then you would get 2 amps of output MAX. If it's a 6 volt adapter, 4 amps of output, etc.
If you try and draw more current, then it may overheat, fail, or simply shut off.
I have a Dewalt jumpstarter.On the back of the jumpstarter it say the input volts is 14.5.One of my ac adapter is 12v.Is it ok to use 12v to charge the Dewalt jumpstarter.Can I use the 16v input ac adapter It's called Dx aeps14 ?
I would not use a 16 volt input.
Looks like that model can be charged from a vehicle's DC accessory plugs which supply 12 volts, and it is charged using a 12 volt output adapter (center positive).
14.5 would be the max voltage that the car's DC plugs would supply, but you won't find any common power supply rated for that voltage. 12 volts should be the correct voltage, but as for the current rating, the higher the better. Likely for a charge this size, it would need 1-2 amp output capacity, and will still take a good long time to charge.
Can I use an adapter with an input of 0.5A to power a 1A doorbell camera that requires an input of 1A?
Careful on 'input' vs 'output'
If the adapter says 0.5A input, then it probably has a much higher output current. So the number you need to find is the output.
If the camera needs 1A, that's the bare minimum, so as long as it's than 1A , it will work fine.
- The power you put in is roughly the power you get out. So if you put in 120V at 0.5A, that's 60W, then if it's a 12V output, that would give 5A output. This sounds like a laptop charger adapter or something? That value seems a little high for most small adapters.
good
I am sure you will delete my comment, but here goes anyway!!!! The ONLY reason that Lemax changed its voltage over the years is to purposely create this confusion and to force folks to buy Lemax branded adaptors. It also explains why they have different sizes of connectors !! The truth of the matter is that the industry SHOULD have set a standard which they all agreed upon. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason to use 3V versus 5V, or 4.5V versus 6V, or even 9V versus 12V - these voltages are all SAFE for use by people not professionally knowledgeable in ELECTRICITY, but who would get confused between the different voltages. Lemax used to use 12V when it was lit with an INCANDESCENT bulb, but LED lighting is better with 3V. Added confusion is created by using different size and styles of connectors, thus making it harder for the average person to understand the reasons why and thus they have to pay a huge price to stick with an INDUSTRY STANDARD!!! I have been using 5V USB power and connectors because they ALL USE the standard Computer/Mobile Phone connectors!! Because of tis 5V USB cables are much cheaper and easier to find and thus practically UNIVERSAL!!! Have fun, stay safe, but learn the FACTS!!!!
What if the device takes 15v and the closest you got is 16v.
Im just doing it anyways so You. Don’t have to answer cause I’ll find out if it stops working