Thanks for the video. There's one more cause of misfire that I've come across. Water leaking into the spark plug hole . filling up the hole about a half inch up. I have no idea how the waters getting in . their after market ebay coils . I just pulled them all and goopped the boots with dielectric grease to get a better seal .
Anthony's Dad, Good Tip! and Yep, I like to use lots of Di-electric Grease on all electrical connectors, You have to be careful not to get it on the transmitting surface, however. - Stiles
Those readings look good to me, you’re going to have a variance on each coil. Also, if you use the Rel (relative) feature of the meter, you can eliminate the ohms reading of the leads and that will give you a true zero to start from.
Eliminator, Yep, you are right, I should have zero'd the Meter for the Lead resistance. I realized this a month or sure after the video published when answering a question. Also I should have manually selected the range and took the Meter off of "Auto" to get a better resolution on the reading. - Stiles
Good video mate, very helpful thank you I’ve always wondered about benchtests in general because it’s always at room temperature, and when the thing is under the Bonnet, it’s smoking, hot and materials expand makes me wonder if you don’t always see the fault but it’s a pretty good start ……. Also, if you pull the boot off and the spring off, you can clean up the terminal at the spark plug side, and you can also clean the terminal at the computer side and that can often fix the issue as well
Wholls, You are very welcome. Yep, good tips about cleaning, and while you are cleaning, check for cracks and bulging from excessive heat. However, you often can't tell when their is an internal issue with windings and insulation. I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
given that heat generally increases internal resistance in components that are heat-range sensitive (such as resistors and filter caps). If measured resistance is higher than OE spec when cool, it may increase linearly or randomly with temperature rise. There are a few components - thermistors and germanium diodes/transistors for example that have a negative coefficient of temperature; as temperature rises, resistance to flow decreases making the circuit more efficient and more easily controlled. But when they go bad, they generally quit altogether.... If I was not familiar with the internal circuitry, but knew the pri and sec coil resistances at standard temp, I would put the suspect coil in a metal box and heat it to around 225F (about 25* above average underhood air temp as measured right at the coil packs in my 5.4 F250 at optemp) and measure resistance, If it was marginal, I would swap it with a known 0 miss coil. and run for a few minutes to determine if the misfire migrates.... But for less than $20, if I suspect a marginal-ohms coil is the problem, it's going in the trash and getting a new one... ( and if the vehicle has 100,000 or so miles on it, they are all getting replaced along with the plugs - "good report cards" or not... )
Hi I’ve got a question.. i had several old coils from my truck over the years and I’m new to using a multi meter. On the primary circuit I’m getting a reading of 0.6 On the secondary circuit I had to switch the the multi meter to to K OHMS and/or M Ohms because the secondary circuit would not get a reading using the regular Ohms Stetting. The reading I got from the secondary circuit 7.21 K Ohms. So is this coil bad or good? Sorry it might sound stupid to you but I just want to make sure I’m doing it right.
I would like to point out something. My mechanic, who is a truly phenomenal told me ohming out a coilpack is not a 100% way to determine if a coilpack is good as he has had many coilpacks ohm out perfect but still fail under a load. So this test is just for a chance at showing a defective coilpack but not to know for 100%. Also you could try pulling off the boot and cleaning the contact spade where the spring makes contact with it, clean all corrosion with a stiff metal brush, little screw driver etc, clean out with electrical cleaner spray, put a dab of dielectric grease on the spade, install spring and boot and retest..you may find you simply had bad contact from corrosion.
Shit i don’t get any reading on the secondary circuits. I’ve got a box of old coils from my truck that I replaced years back but they all can’t be bad. I wonder what’s going on?
As i understand it the tolerance spec is +/-10%. So if the coils are supposed to be 55 mega ohms then being out by 5.5 is acceptable. Obviously cleaning up the contacts is recommended and should improve the resistance, but if its still close or out of spec even after that then you have a bad coil. I'm curious, that MSD one you have, did you attempt a warranty swap? I've read on forums about people contacting MSD about a bad coil and MSD sending them a replacement after receiving the bad one. One of mine is 8% out of spec even after cleaning it up.
These, Yep, I gave you the spec's for Motorcraft and MSD. Different resistance for different Manufacturers. You numbers are in the Ball Park. I bet the resistance directly applies to Spark Energy and Spark Duration, but I don't know the equation. I appreciate the information! - Stiles
We need a variable though. Should've also tested either another msd coil you knew was good, since you said this one was bad, or a stick coil, assuming you had one laying around. But i don't think a .1 higher resistance instantly means it's bad.
U, Yep, I get what you are saying. As far as the new MSD Coil, I gave you the MSD Spec's. Its hard to bench test a Coil, the insulation can be totally gone and the Coil tests ok. Bench test works great when the Coil is completing fried, like when there is an open circuit. I believe for troubleshooting you need to verify your work: For Coil troubleshooting, say you have a P0303 OBDII Code, To be sure if the Coil is bad, I like to swap the questionable Coil for a known good one. Remove and install the Number 1 Coil into the Number 3 and the Number 3 into the Number 1 positions. If it is bad, your OBDII Fault Code should change to P0301. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
yes this was heplful my 1999 ford f250 light duty 5.4 2valve had a code po303 cylinder 3 misfire changed the coil cleared the code and has not returned but to be share i wanted to test the coil and my old coil has no reading from the plug end to the negitive termal and only 0.01 across the positive to negitive termanels
Wesley, Ok, very good. You are thinking the right way! You don't want to just change parts and hope that you picked the right part. I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
My 900wheel Supercharged Boss Roadrunner engine misfired and it caused catastrophic failure to my engine. Engine lost all power and eventually Hydrolocked cause injectors kept squirting fuel in cylinder but no spark. So if your motor misfires even once it can be deadly. My engine only had 18k miles on it and it was fully built forged motor too..Checked coil and it seems fine plus one coil failing will not cause catastrophic engine failure. Something else caused multiple misfires and caused engine to fail.
I plan to use this technique tomorrow. However, if the ignition coil fares well, I wonder if bad rollers, (notorious with the 5.4) could cause a misfire and therefore the 0303 code. The roller ticking noise is coming from the same side as my misfire, cylinder 3.
George, Are you sure you have a ticking sound or is it an exhaust leak, the 2 sounds are very different. If you do have a ticking in the Valve Train, don't let it go very long. For your Coil troubleshooting and P0303 OBDII Code, To be sure, if the Coil is bad, I like to swap the questionable Coil for a known good one. Remove and install the Number 1 Coil into the Number 3 and the Number 3 into the Number 1 positions. If it is bad, your OBDII Fault Code should change to P0301. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
What1See, Nope, the Coils are not likely the problem. The OBDII Code P0345 Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit (Bank 2) likely causes are: a bad Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP), problems with the sensor wiring (more likely than you would think due to the Connectors), a failed Crankshaft Position Sensor, damaged or misaligned timing components, and a faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM sets the P0345 code if the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) either sends inconsistent signals or stops transmitting any signal. I have found it hard to get reliable off-brand Electrical Sensors and Electronic Components. I like to use Motorcraft Components. You said you replaced the Cam Position Sensors, I'd take a look at the Wiring and the Electrical Connectors. - Stiles
Currently trying to find the specs for a 2008 ford escape 3.0l with the cop style coils and can't find it anywhere. Found two different specs for aftermarket coils but both give different minimum resistances so I'm guessing the factory ford coils wouldn't be the same either.
Fordman, That is a MOTORCRAFT DG513 Ignition Coil, used in a number of Ford Cars, 2001-2008 ESCAPE, 2005-2007 FIVE HUNDRED, 2005-2007 FREESTYLE, 2000-2005 TAURUS and the Mercury equivalent. The resistance for the Primary Circuit should be 0.55 ohms and the secondary circuit resistance should be 5,500 ohms. You didn't ask, but here is the deal: If you have an open circuit, of course the coil is bad, but you can measure the correct resistance and the insulation/windings can still be bad. If you have a cylinder misfire identified by the OBDII code, switch the bad (fault) cylinder coil with a known (non-faulting) cylinder and see if the mis-fire condition moves to that cylinder. If it moves you know that coil is an fault and replace it. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thanks a bunch. so the readings on these don't make a whole lot of sense to me. they all read 2.8 ohms the first time I checked them, then later 5.8 - 6.0 ohms on the primary wich is a lot higher than spec but I'm only have a missfire in cylender 2. but the other 5 read 5,350 - 5,380 on the secondery except number 2 which read 4,800. It has 130k miles so i'm just going to replace all the coils and spark plugs anyway. but those reading are confusing.
I bought a truck and I'm having problems with cylinder 4 so I checked the coil on cylinder 4 the coils that are used MAS than beneath it says tfq I'm getting a reading of 0.8 ohms and when I check the secondary I'm getting no reading, my question is should I be getting a reading on the secondary or not and is 0 0 8 ohms good
Louis, If you have a very high resistance reading or a an open circuit reading you have a bad Coil. It is somethings hard to tell from this test. For Coil troubleshooting, say you have a P0303 OBDII Code, To be sure if the Coil is bad, I like to swap the questionable Coil for a known good one. Remove and install the Number 1 Coil into the Number 3 and the Number 3 into the Number 1 positions. If it is bad, your OBDII Fault Code should change to P0301. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thank you for the error code is p0304 other than that code I'm getting a bunch of other codes as well p0451 -p1298 -p1450-1285-1484; but I notice sometimes when I fixed one sensor in the past it cleared up a bunch of codes but this time I'm not sure how to go about these codes if you can help I appreciate it thank you
@@StilesAutomotive I wanted to update you about the misfire I had on my Ford, after checking all the coils, they all gave the the same reading, so I went deeper and pulled the plugs and one plug was completely shot the other's had very little electroid, so I replaced all the plugs, I didn't mention that I had these other two codes when I was trying to figure out the coil but I have 2 codes, one is an EVAP code p0451 and ABS code b1484, these codes were there as well but I wanted to fix the misfire and I did with your help I was wondering if you knew what parts needs to be replaced when these two codes come up. P0451 and b1484. I appreciate your help thank you and be safe
@@htfdlouissirois The b1484 Code is Brake Pedal Input Open Circuit, Most likely causes are (in this order): 1) Bad Brake Pedal Position Switch, 2) Open or Shorted Brake Pedal Position Switch harness, 3) Brake Pedal Position Switch Connector corroded (poor connection) and less likely but possible 4) Bad Smart Junction Box (SJB). For the P0451Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor The most likely 1) Fuel Cap Seal Bad, 2) Bad Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor, 3) Open or Shorted Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor harness, 4) Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Connector Corroded. 5) Bad Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thank you so much stiles, I really appreciate that information, I'm not a mechanic and having hard times right now and I truly do appreciate your information. in my situation I think I'll start with the connections first, I believe I can do that with a multimeter then work my way down your list, thank you so much and have a great day be safe. 👍
I have a question. I jusr bought my son a 06 F150 5.4L and found the engine is misfiring. I found which cyl #/coil it was with my scan tool and replaced both the spark plug (OEM) and coil (MAS brand from Amazon with good reviews) and it fixed the problem for one day then I started getting intermittent misfires the next day when I floored it off to give it a good test run. I heard the pop/misfire happen and been on and off for 3 days now. I checked new coil multimeter and primary was good but I’m not getting anything on secondary. So I checked ohms on the old coil and the primary was only 1 and secondary 0. I bought enough plugs and coils to change them all out but just haven’t had the time, so I decided to check all the other new coils and they all the same as the first one. Primary I’m getting .7 but 0 on secondary. Does this mean all the coils are faulty? Once the weather clears up over here I will try pulling some of the other old coils on truck now to check them as well to compare, but I just don’t understand why I’m not getting anything on the secondary when all the vids I’ve watched is saying the same as you. Thanks in advance for any help!
Ray, you need a ODBII Fault Code Reader, your Ford Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will tell the Reader which Cylinder or Cylinders is misfiring. The easy way to make sure it is the Coil is to swap the suspected bad Coil for a good one, the problem should move to the other Cylinder. It's not expensive, but this isn't the cheapest Code Reader and it has the ability to read SRS (restrain system) and ABS Fault codes to - Scan Tool OBD2 Eng/ABS/SRS/Tran Launch CRP123-2022 amzn.to/3LtgtIQ Just plug the Reader into the OBDII Port under your Steering Wheel Column and follow the instructions on the Reader. - Stiles
I am showing 0.61/0.7 on OEM primary ohm testing. Is this too high? 5.4 to 5.7 on the secondary with the exception of one aftermarket coil that is showing 6.6 on the secondary. I can assume that is too high?
Donald, Your measurements seem reasonable and tells me your coils are ok, however, this test doesn't tell you if you have bad insulation and other issue. Meaning your coil could still be bad. Do you have a know problem with one? Or are you just checking them? For Coil troubleshooting, say you have a P0303 OBDII Code, To be sure if the Coil is bad, I like to swap the questionable Coil for a known good one. Remove and install the Number 1 Coil into the Number 3 and the Number 3 into the Number 1 positions. If it is bad, your OBDII Fault Code should change to P0301. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Willie, I've always liked the MSD Ignition products, but for your 2004 I recommend the Ford Motorcraft Coils. Be sure to be careful you don't get counterfeit Coils. - Stiles
Adam, I'm not sure what you are asking for, I gave you the information in the video to determine if the Coil is good (or what it should read if good). - Stiles
I did not find this helpful. You spend half the video detailing how many billions of cars this could pertain to. And then when you do the actual testing you do not state what to set the multimeter to nor specify which pin should be the negative. Nor did you express that if the resistance is not exact if the cop would then be usable or not. So if it should be .573 ohm but registers at .6 is it bad? Or is it good still because you didn't have your multimeter set to tens-of-thousanths.
Billy, Sorry to hear that you didn’t get what you need from the video. I attempt to make my videos as detail as possible and give the viewer all of the information they need for the task. When testing your Coil, I believe it is important to know if the video covers your coil and if it doesn’t you understand your results may be different. I will attempt to address your issues: 1) “you do not state what to set the multimeter to” My Fluke multimeter is auto ranging and does not require a range setting unless the user desires it, the first resistance measurement is the Primary resistance which should be 0.55 ohms, you must set your meter to read in the proper range (I don’t know the meter you are using) and the secondary resistance should be 5,500 ohms. 2) “nor specify which pin should be the negative” I Show the positive (red) and the negative (black) leads touching the pins in the video at 3:42 where I have the red touching the negative pin and black touch the positive pin, however, with a 2-pin connector and when measuring resistance polarity does not matter. The location of the negative pin does matter when measuring the secondary resistance which I show as the leftside pin (As I hold the Coil) in the video at 3:56. 3) “Nor did you express that if the resistance is not exact if the cop would then be usable or not” The Ford Service Manual does the same, it simply states the 2 values 0.55 ohms and 5,500 ohms. If the measured value is “0” or open circuit, that’s easy, bad Coil. You are asking for a “good” range and “bad” range, I have not seen anyone publish a table like this. - Stiles
Doesn't matter which is neg. Put your leads together, note reading. Now touch leads on both pins and note reading, now deduct first reading which is resistance in the meter leads and that is your true ohms of coil
Teddy, Often, simple is better. An easy way to test these CoP Coils, is to switch a suspected bad Coil with a known good one, if the OBDII Fault Code move to the new location, you know that Coil is bad. I attempt to explain everything in detail. - Stiles
Thanks for the straightforward instructions. Very comprehensive and to the point. Showing the reference material was a great touch.
Straightforward, to the point. I like it.
Ben, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
Excellent instruction video - Straight forward and no fluff...thanks
Tim, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
Finally someone showed how to test the secondary with a VOM. Meter and and meter probe connections could cause variations in VOM display results.
Ken, True, and I didn't show zeroing my meter which would change the reading too. I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
tested my jeep liberty coil the way you demonstrated and it was almost the same readings as yours . replaced it and all is good . thanks.
Lar, You are welcome, glad to help! - Stiles
Thanks for the video. There's one more cause of misfire that I've come across. Water leaking into the spark plug hole . filling up the hole about a half inch up. I have no idea how the waters getting in . their after market ebay coils . I just pulled them all and goopped the boots with dielectric grease to get a better seal .
Anthony's Dad, Good Tip! and Yep, I like to use lots of Di-electric Grease on all electrical connectors, You have to be careful not to get it on the transmitting surface, however. - Stiles
Those readings look good to me, you’re going to have a variance on each coil. Also, if you use the Rel (relative) feature of the meter, you can eliminate the ohms reading of the leads and that will give you a true zero to start from.
Eliminator, Yep, you are right, I should have zero'd the Meter for the Lead resistance. I realized this a month or sure after the video published when answering a question. Also I should have manually selected the range and took the Meter off of "Auto" to get a better resolution on the reading. - Stiles
Good video mate, very helpful thank you
I’ve always wondered about benchtests in general because it’s always at room temperature, and when the thing is under the Bonnet, it’s smoking, hot and materials expand
makes me wonder if you don’t always see the fault but it’s a pretty good start …….
Also, if you pull the boot off and the spring off, you can clean up the terminal at the spark plug side, and you can also clean the terminal at the computer side and that can often fix the issue as well
Wholls, You are very welcome. Yep, good tips about cleaning, and while you are cleaning, check for cracks and bulging from excessive heat. However, you often can't tell when their is an internal issue with windings and insulation. I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
given that heat generally increases internal resistance in components that are heat-range sensitive (such as resistors and filter caps). If measured resistance is higher than OE spec when cool, it may increase linearly or randomly with temperature rise. There are a few components - thermistors and germanium diodes/transistors for example that have a negative coefficient of temperature; as temperature rises, resistance to flow decreases making the circuit more efficient and more easily controlled. But when they go bad, they generally quit altogether.... If I was not familiar with the internal circuitry, but knew the pri and sec coil resistances at standard temp, I would put the suspect coil in a metal box and heat it to around 225F (about 25* above average underhood air temp as measured right at the coil packs in my 5.4 F250 at optemp) and measure resistance, If it was marginal, I would swap it with a known 0 miss coil. and run for a few minutes to determine if the misfire migrates.... But for less than $20, if I suspect a marginal-ohms coil is the problem, it's going in the trash and getting a new one... ( and if the vehicle has 100,000 or so miles on it, they are all getting replaced along with the plugs - "good report cards" or not... )
Professional and well done Thank you
Doc, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
Great video very informative for 05 4.6L
Glad you liked it! I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
Hi I’ve got a question..
i had several old coils from my truck over the years and I’m new to using a multi meter.
On the primary circuit I’m getting a reading of 0.6
On the secondary circuit I had to switch the the multi meter to to K OHMS and/or M Ohms because the secondary circuit would not get a reading using the regular Ohms Stetting. The reading I got from the secondary circuit 7.21 K Ohms.
So is this coil bad or good?
Sorry it might sound stupid to you but I just want to make sure I’m doing it right.
I would like to point out something. My mechanic, who is a truly phenomenal told me ohming out a coilpack is not a 100% way to determine if a coilpack is good as he has had many coilpacks ohm out perfect but still fail under a load. So this test is just for a chance at showing a defective coilpack but not to know for 100%.
Also you could try pulling off the boot and cleaning the contact spade where the spring makes contact with it, clean all corrosion with a stiff metal brush, little screw driver etc, clean out with electrical cleaner spray, put a dab of dielectric grease on the spade, install spring and boot and retest..you may find you simply had bad contact from corrosion.
Shit i don’t get any reading on the secondary circuits. I’ve got a box of old coils from my truck that I replaced years back but they all can’t be bad. I wonder what’s going on?
As i understand it the tolerance spec is +/-10%. So if the coils are supposed to be 55 mega ohms then being out by 5.5 is acceptable. Obviously cleaning up the contacts is recommended and should improve the resistance, but if its still close or out of spec even after that then you have a bad coil. I'm curious, that MSD one you have, did you attempt a warranty swap? I've read on forums about people contacting MSD about a bad coil and MSD sending them a replacement after receiving the bad one. One of mine is 8% out of spec even after cleaning it up.
The set of $67 ones I got for replacement for 2001 5.4L Excursion, all 8 read as follows:
Primary: 0.4 ohms
Secondary: 5,900 to 5,990 ohms.
These, Yep, I gave you the spec's for Motorcraft and MSD. Different resistance for different Manufacturers. You numbers are in the Ball Park. I bet the resistance directly applies to Spark Energy and Spark Duration, but I don't know the equation. I appreciate the information! - Stiles
We need a variable though. Should've also tested either another msd coil you knew was good, since you said this one was bad, or a stick coil, assuming you had one laying around. But i don't think a .1 higher resistance instantly means it's bad.
U, Yep, I get what you are saying. As far as the new MSD Coil, I gave you the MSD Spec's. Its hard to bench test a Coil, the insulation can be totally gone and the Coil tests ok. Bench test works great when the Coil is completing fried, like when there is an open circuit. I believe for troubleshooting you need to verify your work:
For Coil troubleshooting, say you have a P0303 OBDII Code, To be sure if the Coil is bad, I like to swap the questionable Coil for a known good one. Remove and install the Number 1 Coil into the Number 3 and the Number 3 into the Number 1 positions. If it is bad, your OBDII Fault Code should change to P0301. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
yes this was heplful my 1999 ford f250 light duty 5.4 2valve had a code po303 cylinder 3 misfire changed the coil cleared the code and has not returned but to be share i wanted to test the coil and my old coil has no reading from the plug end to the negitive termal and only 0.01 across the positive to negitive termanels
Wesley, Ok, very good. You are thinking the right way! You don't want to just change parts and hope that you picked the right part. I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
Very helpful
Mike, Glad you think so! I appreciate the feedback. - Stiles
yes very heplful, thanks
Burns, You are welcome, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
Thanks it was helpful
Joe, I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
My 900wheel Supercharged Boss Roadrunner engine misfired and it caused catastrophic failure to my engine. Engine lost all power and eventually Hydrolocked cause injectors kept squirting fuel in cylinder but no spark. So if your motor misfires even once it can be deadly. My engine only had 18k miles on it and it was fully built forged motor too..Checked coil and it seems fine plus one coil failing will not cause catastrophic engine failure. Something else caused multiple misfires and caused engine to fail.
Maximus, Geez, man, sorry to hear that. Often, it is one little thing that causes a big problem. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive Wasnt coil though, something else caused multiple cylinder misfires.
I plan to use this technique tomorrow. However, if the ignition coil fares well, I wonder if bad rollers, (notorious with the 5.4) could cause a misfire and therefore the 0303 code. The roller ticking noise is coming from the same side as my misfire, cylinder 3.
George, Are you sure you have a ticking sound or is it an exhaust leak, the 2 sounds are very different. If you do have a ticking in the Valve Train, don't let it go very long. For your Coil troubleshooting and P0303 OBDII Code, To be sure, if the Coil is bad, I like to swap the questionable Coil for a known good one. Remove and install the Number 1 Coil into the Number 3 and the Number 3 into the Number 1 positions. If it is bad, your OBDII Fault Code should change to P0301. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
Number #3 is bad check the cop and plug if its a 09 or later pull the valve cover to check roller in that cylinder
Thank you. That answered my misfire issue.
You're very welcome! I glad the video was helpful! - Stiles
Bien explicado grasias amigo
Ruperto, eres muy bienvenido (You are very welcome!) ! - Stiles
I’m getting a P0345 I change both camshaft positioning sensors. Do you think it could be a coil pack and not the phaser?
What1See, Nope, the Coils are not likely the problem. The OBDII Code P0345 Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit (Bank 2) likely causes are: a bad Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP), problems with the sensor wiring (more likely than you would think due to the Connectors), a failed Crankshaft Position Sensor, damaged or misaligned timing components, and a faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM sets the P0345 code if the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) either sends inconsistent signals or stops transmitting any signal. I have found it hard to get reliable off-brand Electrical Sensors and Electronic Components. I like to use Motorcraft Components. You said you replaced the Cam Position Sensors, I'd take a look at the Wiring and the Electrical Connectors. - Stiles
Currently trying to find the specs for a 2008 ford escape 3.0l with the cop style coils and can't find it anywhere. Found two different specs for aftermarket coils but both give different minimum resistances so I'm guessing the factory ford coils wouldn't be the same either.
Fordman, That is a MOTORCRAFT DG513 Ignition Coil, used in a number of Ford Cars,
2001-2008 ESCAPE, 2005-2007 FIVE HUNDRED, 2005-2007 FREESTYLE, 2000-2005 TAURUS and the Mercury equivalent. The resistance for the Primary Circuit should be 0.55 ohms and the secondary circuit resistance should be 5,500 ohms.
You didn't ask, but here is the deal: If you have an open circuit, of course the coil is bad, but you can measure the correct resistance and the insulation/windings can still be bad. If you have a cylinder misfire identified by the OBDII code, switch the bad (fault) cylinder coil with a known (non-faulting) cylinder and see if the mis-fire condition moves to that cylinder. If it moves you know that coil is an fault and replace it. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thanks a bunch. so the readings on these don't make a whole lot of sense to me. they all read 2.8 ohms the first time I checked them, then later 5.8 - 6.0 ohms on the primary wich is a lot higher than spec but I'm only have a missfire in cylender 2. but the other 5 read 5,350 - 5,380 on the secondery except number 2 which read 4,800. It has 130k miles so i'm just going to replace all the coils and spark plugs anyway. but those reading are confusing.
I bought a truck and I'm having problems with cylinder 4 so I checked the coil on cylinder 4 the coils that are used MAS than beneath it says tfq I'm getting a reading of 0.8 ohms and when I check the secondary I'm getting no reading, my question is should I be getting a reading on the secondary or not and is 0 0 8 ohms good
Louis, If you have a very high resistance reading or a an open circuit reading you have a bad Coil. It is somethings hard to tell from this test.
For Coil troubleshooting, say you have a P0303 OBDII Code, To be sure if the Coil is bad, I like to swap the questionable Coil for a known good one. Remove and install the Number 1 Coil into the Number 3 and the Number 3 into the Number 1 positions. If it is bad, your OBDII Fault Code should change to P0301. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thank you for the error code is p0304 other than that code I'm getting a bunch of other codes as well p0451 -p1298 -p1450-1285-1484; but I notice sometimes when I fixed one sensor in the past it cleared up a bunch of codes but this time I'm not sure how to go about these codes if you can help I appreciate it thank you
@@StilesAutomotive I wanted to update you about the misfire I had on my Ford, after checking all the coils, they all gave the the same reading, so I went deeper and pulled the plugs and one plug was completely shot the other's had very little electroid, so I replaced all the plugs, I didn't mention that I had these other two codes when I was trying to figure out the coil but I have 2 codes, one is an EVAP code p0451 and ABS code b1484, these codes were there as well but I wanted to fix the misfire and I did with your help I was wondering if you knew what parts needs to be replaced when these two codes come up. P0451 and b1484. I appreciate your help thank you and be safe
@@htfdlouissirois The b1484 Code is Brake Pedal Input Open Circuit, Most likely causes are (in this order): 1) Bad Brake Pedal Position Switch, 2) Open or Shorted Brake Pedal Position Switch harness, 3) Brake Pedal Position Switch Connector corroded (poor connection) and less likely but possible 4) Bad Smart Junction Box (SJB). For the P0451Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor The most likely 1) Fuel Cap Seal Bad, 2) Bad Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor, 3) Open or Shorted Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor harness, 4) Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Connector Corroded. 5) Bad Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive thank you so much stiles, I really appreciate that information, I'm not a mechanic and having hard times right now and I truly do appreciate your information. in my situation I think I'll start with the connections first, I believe I can do that with a multimeter then work my way down your list, thank you so much and have a great day be safe. 👍
I have a question. I jusr bought my son a 06 F150 5.4L and found the engine is misfiring. I found which cyl #/coil it was with my scan tool and replaced both the spark plug (OEM) and coil (MAS brand from Amazon with good reviews) and it fixed the problem for one day then I started getting intermittent misfires the next day when I floored it off to give it a good test run. I heard the pop/misfire happen and been on and off for 3 days now. I checked new coil multimeter and primary was good but I’m not getting anything on secondary. So I checked ohms on the old coil and the primary was only 1 and secondary 0. I bought enough plugs and coils to change them all out but just haven’t had the time, so I decided to check all the other new coils and they all the same as the first one. Primary I’m getting .7 but 0 on secondary. Does this mean all the coils are faulty? Once the weather clears up over here I will try pulling some of the other old coils on truck now to check them as well to compare, but I just don’t understand why I’m not getting anything on the secondary when all the vids I’ve watched is saying the same as you. Thanks in advance for any help!
Did you figure out a solution? I'm having the same exact issue?
I've got a friend who has a 2005 ftxextended cab that has problems with coils it has 149k miles on the truck I'm an old man and need help HELP
Ray, you need a ODBII Fault Code Reader, your Ford Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will tell the Reader which Cylinder or Cylinders is misfiring. The easy way to make sure it is the Coil is to swap the suspected bad Coil for a good one, the problem should move to the other Cylinder.
It's not expensive, but this isn't the cheapest Code Reader and it has the ability to read SRS (restrain system) and ABS Fault codes to - Scan Tool OBD2 Eng/ABS/SRS/Tran Launch CRP123-2022 amzn.to/3LtgtIQ
Just plug the Reader into the OBDII Port under your Steering Wheel Column and follow the instructions on the Reader. - Stiles
😂 most of 8 coil primarily circuits reading low 0.40 and below. That's mean I have to replace?
Bas, No, I'd say that are still ok. You get different measurements from different manufacturers. - Stiles
Awsome
Mike, Thanks for the comment! - Stiles
I am showing 0.61/0.7 on OEM primary ohm testing. Is this too high? 5.4 to 5.7 on the secondary with the exception of one aftermarket coil that is showing 6.6 on the secondary. I can assume that is too high?
Donald, Your measurements seem reasonable and tells me your coils are ok, however, this test doesn't tell you if you have bad insulation and other issue. Meaning your coil could still be bad. Do you have a know problem with one? Or are you just checking them?
For Coil troubleshooting, say you have a P0303 OBDII Code, To be sure if the Coil is bad, I like to swap the questionable Coil for a known good one. Remove and install the Number 1 Coil into the Number 3 and the Number 3 into the Number 1 positions. If it is bad, your OBDII Fault Code should change to P0301. Let me know how it goes! - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive Thanks, have a good day.
I’m gonna tear into the coil packs and test them. What is your opinion here
What1see, check out your other comment for my reply, I hope it helps! - Stiles
Think you
You are very welcome! - Stiles
What's the best ignition coil packs 2004f150 4.6l
Willie, I've always liked the MSD Ignition products, but for your 2004 I recommend the Ford Motorcraft Coils. Be sure to be careful you don't get counterfeit Coils. - Stiles
Muy buena explicación la podrá traducir al español,,?
Jorge, My translator says that means, "very good explanation will be able to". I appreciate the comment! - Stiles
❤
Dafnashvayn, I appreciate the feedback! - Stiles
Do you have a test on a good pack?
Adam, I'm not sure what you are asking for, I gave you the information in the video to determine if the Coil is good (or what it should read if good). - Stiles
I did not find this helpful. You spend half the video detailing how many billions of cars this could pertain to. And then when you do the actual testing you do not state what to set the multimeter to nor specify which pin should be the negative. Nor did you express that if the resistance is not exact if the cop would then be usable or not. So if it should be .573 ohm but registers at .6 is it bad? Or is it good still because you didn't have your multimeter set to tens-of-thousanths.
Billy, Sorry to hear that you didn’t get what you need from the video. I attempt to make my videos as detail as possible and give the viewer all of the information they need for the task. When testing your Coil, I believe it is important to know if the video covers your coil and if it doesn’t you understand your results may be different.
I will attempt to address your issues:
1) “you do not state what to set the multimeter to” My Fluke multimeter is auto ranging and does not require a range setting unless the user desires it, the first resistance measurement is the Primary resistance which should be 0.55 ohms, you must set your meter to read in the proper range (I don’t know the meter you are using) and the secondary resistance should be 5,500 ohms.
2) “nor specify which pin should be the negative” I Show the positive (red) and the negative (black) leads touching the pins in the video at 3:42 where I have the red touching the negative pin and black touch the positive pin, however, with a 2-pin connector and when measuring resistance polarity does not matter. The location of the negative pin does matter when measuring the secondary resistance which I show as the leftside pin (As I hold the Coil) in the video at 3:56.
3) “Nor did you express that if the resistance is not exact if the cop would then be usable or not” The Ford Service Manual does the same, it simply states the 2 values 0.55 ohms and 5,500 ohms. If the measured value is “0” or open circuit, that’s easy, bad Coil. You are asking for a “good” range and “bad” range, I have not seen anyone publish a table like this. - Stiles
@@StilesAutomotive What if you have misfire under hard throttle but shows no codes
Or no codes when idleing anyway.
Doesn't matter which is neg. Put your leads together, note reading. Now touch leads on both pins and note reading, now deduct first reading which is resistance in the meter leads and that is your true ohms of coil
Speak for yourself …it helped me out in less than a minute.Now when I go to the junk yard I’ll have a little more information.
Or ecu
Skyhunter, Yep, or Wires and more likely the Electrical Connectors are the Coil. - Stiles
This testing seems a bit above my level of understanding.
My fault. Not yours.
Teddy, Often, simple is better. An easy way to test these CoP Coils, is to switch a suspected bad Coil with a known good one, if the OBDII Fault Code move to the new location, you know that Coil is bad. I attempt to explain everything in detail. - Stiles