Interesting. I never really put much thought into which side to start deburring from, but intuition would have told me, the side the burr was on. I will keep it in mind from now on.
I’ve been deburring from the back ever since watching this video and get excellent results. It makes total sense. I have quantitatively proven this works.
Thank you! i was looking for this piece of information, could have sworn i've heard it on some video from Tormek. I was always deburring on the burr side
Amazing stuff and superb explanations of your findings. Much respect and admiration for what you do and how much it has helped me become a better sharpener. Thank you so much Wootz!
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 absolutely. Quick question on the paper wheel tower in your video and website: how can I build or find one? I do not have a welder. I have extra USB bars and the bgm-100. Thank you.
Excellent! That honing comment caught my attention too in that Tormek video. I had a plan to experiment as well, but in a far simpler way. This was brilliant and well conceived as an idea. Thank you. Vadim!
When Wolfgang and Sebastien started saying this, my first reaction was - "can not be true". To be honest, I thought that my experiment would show contrary to what they were saying, but it only proved they are right. When working towards the razor edge and beyond, every bit of such info is valuable.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 I thought maybe it was a technique that would benefit manual honing, where the angle is less accurate. I didn’t think it would apply with an FVB because the honing wheel would pass underneath where the burr curls up and away from the apex. But I guess because of the ‘give’ of the paper or leather the burr is accessed.
As I was experimenting with this I got to wondering, would we get better end results if we followed the same practice as we move up in grit? It was clear to me that I was back cutting the burr, say from 400 to 1000, and it certainly didn't seem like a bad idea. I'm working on belts, for what that's worth. But I suspect the logic would apply across abrasives. Welcome your thoughts!
Y don't think so, Matthew, because grinding and honing are different animals. When we hone starting on the side without the burr, we make the burr on the other side thinner but longer - this reflects in worse sharpness numbers on the tester. The thinner burr removes with a sharper edge apex. When we grind on the side without the burr, we add volume to the burr on the other side, and this is something we want to avoid. What I do on the grit 1000 to minimise the burr: having set the edge, I flip the blade burr side on the grinding wheel and do one very light and quick pass - this makes the burr noticeably smaller.
Your application of the scientific method is commendable. It's one thing to say to start deburring on the side just worked, it's another to illustrate and explain why with logic, reason and experimentation. I really appreciate that.
After the first deburring isn’t the conclusion the opposite ?? And I guess that’s where the Tormec guy’s stop. They don’t have the tools to loose the feather burr ?? And I guess if your study should have any scientific relevance. You shouldn’t have had the knowledge on which side the burr was placed at the beginning. I really appreciate your videos. I learned a lot. Hope my comments aren’t too grumpy 😊
It is a plastic MX Dirt Bike Stand that you see in my videos www.mxstore.com.au/p/Cycra-Black-Moto-Stand/CY2037-12 There are should be cheaper versions available on eBay.
This topic is still on my mind, and what I’m wondering is shouldn’t we extend this logic to how we treat the CBN1000, where we also want to handle the burr as delicately as possible. maybe the best approach there is also to start on the opposite side of the burr… what do you think?
When we hone starting on the side without the burr, we make the burr on the other side thinner but longer - this reflects in worse sharpness numbers on the tester. When we grind on the side without the burr, we add volume to the burr on the other side, and this is something we want to avoid. What I do on the #1000 to minimise the burr: having set the edge, I flip the blade burr side on the grinding wheel and do one very light and quick pass - this makes the burr noticeably smaller.
Interesting. I never really put much thought into which side to start deburring from, but intuition would have told me, the side the burr was on.
I will keep it in mind from now on.
I’ve been deburring from the back ever since watching this video and get excellent results. It makes total sense. I have quantitatively proven this works.
Thank you! i was looking for this piece of information, could have sworn i've heard it on some video from Tormek. I was always deburring on the burr side
Amazing stuff and superb explanations of your findings. Much respect and admiration for what you do and how much it has helped me become a better sharpener.
Thank you so much Wootz!
Glad you find it helpful
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 absolutely. Quick question on the paper wheel tower in your video and website: how can I build or find one? I do not have a welder. I have extra USB bars and the bgm-100. Thank you.
A wooden stand works as fine. My first stand was of wood. See more examples knifegrinders.com.au/PW_self-made.htm
Excellent! That honing comment caught my attention too in that Tormek video. I had a plan to experiment as well, but in a far simpler way. This was brilliant and well conceived as an idea. Thank you. Vadim!
When Wolfgang and Sebastien started saying this, my first reaction was - "can not be true". To be honest, I thought that my experiment would show contrary to what they were saying, but it only proved they are right. When working towards the razor edge and beyond, every bit of such info is valuable.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 I thought maybe it was a technique that would benefit manual honing, where the angle is less accurate. I didn’t think it would apply with an FVB because the honing wheel would pass underneath where the burr curls up and away from the apex. But I guess because of the ‘give’ of the paper or leather the burr is accessed.
Thanks again for yet again sharing all your knowledge and helping us all get better at sharpening and saving time and money.
Thank you
Fascinating! This is not at all intuitive but it makes sense. I'll keep this in mind!
As I was experimenting with this I got to wondering, would we get better end results if we followed the same practice as we move up in grit?
It was clear to me that I was back cutting the burr, say from 400 to 1000, and it certainly didn't seem like a bad idea.
I'm working on belts, for what that's worth. But I suspect the logic would apply across abrasives.
Welcome your thoughts!
Y don't think so, Matthew, because grinding and honing are different animals.
When we hone starting on the side without the burr, we make the burr on the other side thinner but longer - this reflects in worse sharpness numbers on the tester. The thinner burr removes with a sharper edge apex.
When we grind on the side without the burr, we add volume to the burr on the other side, and this is something we want to avoid.
What I do on the grit 1000 to minimise the burr: having set the edge, I flip the blade burr side on the grinding wheel and do one very light and quick pass - this makes the burr noticeably smaller.
Thank you again Vadim👍 one question, when you use rock hard felt wheel, do you de burring the same way?
Yes I do
Your application of the scientific method is commendable.
It's one thing to say to start deburring on the side just worked, it's another to illustrate and explain why with logic, reason and experimentation.
I really appreciate that.
Thanks Vadin for your deep contribution during your earth time! Sharp for us in heaven!
Thanks for the knowledge . The feather edge has been frustrating me ... Now I know what to call it 👍
After the first deburring isn’t the conclusion the opposite ??
And I guess that’s where the Tormec guy’s stop.
They don’t have the tools to loose the feather burr ??
And I guess if your study should have any scientific relevance. You shouldn’t have had the knowledge on which side the burr was placed at the beginning.
I really appreciate your videos. I learned a lot.
Hope my comments aren’t too grumpy 😊
Great work as always Sir!.....your methods and explanations are on point and clear....your work is important and thank you for sharing!
So nice of you
Ok, I have to change side.😀
Good Video!
Which tables where you put the tormek on are you using? 😉
It is a plastic MX Dirt Bike Stand that you see in my videos www.mxstore.com.au/p/Cycra-Black-Moto-Stand/CY2037-12
There are should be cheaper versions available on eBay.
This topic is still on my mind, and what I’m wondering is shouldn’t we extend this logic to how we treat the CBN1000, where we also want to handle the burr as delicately as possible. maybe the best approach there is also to start on the opposite side of the burr… what do you think?
When we hone starting on the side without the burr, we make the burr on the other side thinner but longer - this reflects in worse sharpness numbers on the tester.
When we grind on the side without the burr, we add volume to the burr on the other side, and this is something we want to avoid.
What I do on the #1000 to minimise the burr: having set the edge, I flip the blade burr side on the grinding wheel and do one very light and quick pass - this makes the burr noticeably smaller.