Boggs Tool in Los Angeles will sharpen your rasps for very little money. Interesting process with high-speed steam turning a burr. Their rejects have one end dipped in red paint, so if you're offered a 'deal' on used files and rasps you might want to be leery.
Same here, I really like the Shinto rasp. But after about a half dozen necks I can see it getting duller and cutting less. So I bought another one for a spare.
I'd add my vote for the Shinto rasp. I've had mine for a while, I don't recall it being too expensive... I's also say that I like the dragon rasp, from StewMac I believe. So of course it is a tad spendy
I build an octave mandolin kit and it came with the neck not shaped (but built), so I used a Shinto style rasp to shape it and it really worked well. I'm getting close to doing my first acoustic guitar neck that wasn't bought complete on eBay/Amazon type places. I'm looking forward to it and plan on definitely using that rasp on it.
@@thepragmaticluthier yes, or rename your channel "the fancy luthier" 😀 Not a big fan of Narex myself, I have a set of japanese style dovetail chisels, and they are a bit of a disappointing
@@thepragmaticluthier I have an Auriou 10" #9 I'm really happy with. In your situation, if the tool excels at it's function, will speed your work, and will last for years, isn't it pragmatic to have it? Your go-to is worn out and, for what it's worth, this would be a business expense. By the time you buy and try several cheaper rasps, you'll have covered the cost of a good one. Maybe the price ($165-200) is justified?
I make the neck and body separately and assemble them after finishing. i traditional classical guitar construction, specifically, the "Madrid school", the guitar starts with the neck. The entire body is assembled around the neck heel in a sort of "unibody" construction. The back can include the heel cap because it is assembled to the body with the neck heel already in place.
@@thepragmaticluthier?! anything to do with facilitating a [possible] Neck-reset in 35-40 years doing Them separately -- Thanks Kevin i do enjoy every Video
Great series Kevin! I saw the second one out of order. We use very similar methodologies.
Boggs Tool in Los Angeles will sharpen your rasps for very little money. Interesting process with high-speed steam turning a burr. Their rejects have one end dipped in red paint, so if you're offered a 'deal' on used files and rasps you might want to be leery.
Hi Kevin, have you considered using a Shinto rasp? I bought one about a year ago and I realised that I should have bought one long before.
Same here, I really like the Shinto rasp. But after about a half dozen necks I can see it getting duller and cutting less. So I bought another one for a spare.
I consider all options, but as price goes up, my suspicion increases proportionally:)
I'd add my vote for the Shinto rasp. I've had mine for a while, I don't recall it being too expensive... I's also say that I like the dragon rasp, from StewMac I believe. So of course it is a tad spendy
I build an octave mandolin kit and it came with the neck not shaped (but built), so I used a Shinto style rasp to shape it and it really worked well. I'm getting close to doing my first acoustic guitar neck that wasn't bought complete on eBay/Amazon type places. I'm looking forward to it and plan on definitely using that rasp on it.
Auriou Toolworks makes really nice rasps, handmade in France, probably hard to get in the US of A.
They are readily available here, at premium prices; enough to make a pragmatist like myself proceed with caution.
@@thepragmaticluthier yes, or rename your channel "the fancy luthier" 😀
Not a big fan of Narex myself, I have a set of japanese style dovetail chisels, and they are a bit of a disappointing
@@thepragmaticluthier I have an Auriou 10" #9 I'm really happy with. In your situation, if the tool excels at it's function, will speed your work, and will last for years, isn't it pragmatic to have it? Your go-to is worn out and, for what it's worth, this would be a business expense. By the time you buy and try several cheaper rasps, you'll have covered the cost of a good one. Maybe the price ($165-200) is justified?
Nice craftsmanship ❤
Thank you!
?! What's behind the choice of having the Heel Cap and Back two separate pieces rather>than one, like on a Classical Guitar
I make the neck and body separately and assemble them after finishing. i traditional classical guitar construction, specifically, the "Madrid school", the guitar starts with the neck. The entire body is assembled around the neck heel in a sort of "unibody" construction. The back can include the heel cap because it is assembled to the body with the neck heel already in place.
@@thepragmaticluthier?! anything to do with facilitating a [possible] Neck-reset in 35-40 years doing Them separately -- Thanks Kevin i do enjoy every Video