So few reviewers actually bring the breadth and depth of content that you do. You clearly have years of experience with hundreds of fragrances, and this is the foundation of the informed opinions that I appreciate. Keep it up.
Thanks for sharing & watching Russ.. i agree we should get our nose on as many fragrances as you can.. it will make your nose mature & understand fragrance history & trends better 😊
Need to get a decant of Viking!! Been hesitant but you got me to pull the trigger. Also got Azarro PH (vintage) coming in the mail. I really enjoy watching your videos , it gives me such a perspective on vintage fragrances that other RUclipsrs fail to provide. Honestly I go to sleep listening to your videos because they are so long and when something catches my attention I'll wake up and write it down before I forget... Starting to collect vintages now and even found Rive Gauche mini at a local antique store near me. Of course I had to pick it up for $15!! You really have educated me in perfumery in all things amouage, fougere, chypre, leather accords, and so much more It's so funny how you mentioned the coconut accord in Tsar! I was looking at it and was like wtf 😂 too bad it's almost $200-300 for a bottle Also, please link Ashanti perfumes, I'm struggling to find it online
Just bought the Loewe Esencia vintage bottle what a gem Ramsey!! fantastic, and timeless fougere I found that fregrance is the most favorite for the Former King of Saudi Arabia King Abdullah.
AZZARO Pour Homme (1978) was the first fragrance I ever bought with my own money. This was back in ‘85, and I remember paying a whopping $38 for a 50ml bottle (half a paycheque from my summer job). As a preening sixteen year-old, I felt on top of the world whenever I splashed it on. I’ve worn hundreds of fragrances since, but AZZARO PH will always hold a special place in my heart.
Le Barbier De Tanger from MDCI is another one I love beside Invasion Barbare and Chypre Palatin. Has old school 80s vibes to me and more interesting than Invasion Barbare.
Great video. For me it is Tsar and after that alk the rest. No matter how many masterpieces I smell, how many classic combinations, Tsar is always there , unbeatable, like that one person in your life that knocks your socks off(romantically) , no matter how many other persons you meet. I am surprised that you don't mention Bijan, the absolute most underrated bargain masterpiece, winner for best fragrance of the year award in 1987, a bomb of oakmoss , honey and other goodies.
Not a fougère but Fidji was another popular Guy Laroche that was very popular in the 80s. Probably the only hit from that house as far as women targeted frags were concerned. I was and still am a Guerlain head so I don’t recall what the scent was exactly.
Great video, not the easiest family of fragrances for me to love. I like the idea of using them in the summer, will do! I wonder about what a feminine fougere would be like, but not necessarily overusing floral to do so.
Fougere catagory grew on me over time Jobannah.... I think traditionally Fougere is seen as such a masculin accord ... Les Indemodables has a fougere with a Tuberose note in it I think 🏵
Duc de vervins is really nice. I haven't tried the extreme version. I bought a 2 pack special and sent one to my Dad for his birthday with some Jade east cologne and aftershave. He had bought some Jade east when it released in Vietnam in 69. 😅 glad I wasn't there for war !! But i bet the experience was cool and he wanted to experience it again. So I surprised him for his birthday. 😂
Amazing Birthday gift to your old man 🥳 thanks to him for serving our country... my uncle was a vietnam vet and eventually all the stuff from Nam like Agent orange ended up killing him 🥺
@@RamseytheRam 😊 They don't make men like that anymore. I don't like politics but today's state of affairs is biblical. 1969 when he bought it. It released in 64
Really enjoying going through videos mate. I couldn’t believe back in 2012 while in one of my favourite Hong Kong fragrance shops I found a bottle just like your Charles Jordan for $20 AUD 😱
I know I've said it before....your collection, something else! Great take on fougeres often seen as an 'older' man's scent. Just don't get it, we all get older and today's 'in' scent will get categorized in time. But in this space you're creating we get to appreciate the wear of scents as a pleasure disregarding the nonsense on other fragrance channels. Appreciate all you're doing and sharing your knowledge. Cheers.
Thanks my friend.. really enjoying creating the type of content I would want to watch😁 On a side note if when I make these videos I am missing a fougere fragrance or leather or whatever the video is if there is something you think I should check out please let me know & I will put it on the to sniff list 😊
@@RamseytheRam Sure, you're so well informed already. If there's a decent price on the original Drakkar I'd give it a go. The bottle top is cheap plastic dressed up to look like chrome. So if you see a worn top I'd be dubious of the quality of the juice. Another popular Guy Laroche at the time was J'ai Osé, the girls loved saying the name as much as the scent,a bit like anais anais sounded lovely rolling of the tongue.
Fortunate to have found a very vintage(1910s or 1920s) Fougere Royale some years ago. Dark juice but you can tell by the scent that the quality of ingredients used back then was incomparable. If you like Drakkar Noir, you should check Grigio Perla. Very similar but an Italian twist to DN. Discontinued not too long ago. Great job as always.
It is amazing. I’m sure it’s macerated over the years but I wouldn’t know the difference how much it’s deviated from the original scent as time passed by. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised with Grigio Perla. One of my favorite fougeres.
I forgot I posted below a long time ago. Anyway, I rewatched this video and have some additional thoughts. Really nice video treatment of the Fougere. You're the top RUclips or otherwise fragrance content provider in my opinion. I'm not sure Creed Viking is a fougere. It does have a lavender note and 'earthy' and 'green' accords listed in Fragrantica. The green and earthy accords could approximate coumarin which is not explicitly listed. It's generally thought that a Fougère is defined by the lavender-coumarin accord. But Viking has a lot more going on which really veers its overall effect away from this dominant Fougere accord. Absinthe, pink pepper, mint, jasmine, etc. To me it has vibes closer to a traditional bay rum than to solidly Fougere fragrances. It's so mentholated and spicy some people say it smells like Tiger Balm. Fragrantica lists it as a "Woody Aromatic" fragrance. I think Viking is a creation that cuts across genres, and does have some Fougere characteristics. But I think Woody or Spicy Aromatic is more accurate than Fougere. Mr. Smelly, in his latest video, says that Creed Bois du Portugal may be more of a Woody Aromatic than a Fougere, but to me BdP is definitely more of a wood-forward Fougere. Fougere is my favorite genre so I'm sensitive about the general indiscriminant overuse of that genre in classifying fragrances. If everything is a Fougere then nothing is. Fougere has its defining prototype, the 1882 Houbigant Fougere Royale, in much the same way that impressionist art has its defining prototype - Claude Monet's painting called Impression Sunrise. And we don't call a Salvador Dali painting an example of Impressionistism. All that said, I guess your "modern fougere" designation would be more palatable to me. At least it qualifies the designation, essentially alerting to the non-conformity to traditional Fougere characteristics. By the way, some fragrances have the note of coumarin listed separate to the note of tonka bean. This, to my understanding of coumarin, points to an interesting fact. I think the original coumarin note in Fougere Royale was extracted from tonka bean. But in isolation, imparts a different smell than tonka bean as a whole, which may have the coumarin-like earthy dried hay smell only as a facet. Moreover, I read that coumarin is actually a constituent part of a lot of things, like lavender for example. I guess what I'm saying by all this is that just because a fragrance lists a tonka bean note and lavender note, it does not necessarily mean it will have that tell-tale defining Fougere accord of lavender-coumarin. I have a modern formulation of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, but it's at the back of my barbershop Fougere collection because to my nose it smells of cheap laundry soap. I like Azzaro Pour Homme, which to me competes with YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme for the title of most quintessential barbershop Fougere by scent profile. But Azzaro Pour Homme does not remind me of Creed Viking, certainly not as much as a bay rum does. I have Milano Cento in my barbershop Fougere collection and it does have a slightly "dirty" vibe, but one that is palatable to my nose. Kouros, which isn't a Fougere, is just gross to me. Milano Cento is similar to Lancetti Monsieur. I have Lalique L'Insoumis (pronounced more like "lawn-sue-me" in French, and means "The Rebel"), and it has a unique lemon/coconut pie like accord. Unique modern Fougere. Of course there is the Bois du Portugal near-clone Lalique Pour Homme "lion". The two Rogue Perfumery fragrances I consider fougeres are Bon Monsieur and Fougere L'Aube. I don't consider Mousse Illuminee to be a Fougere. I have Bon Monsieur and Fougere L'Aube is on my to-buy list. Sartorial by Penhaligon, #4 in my barbershop Fougere collection, is my favorite Penhaligon. But there are a lot of Penhaligon's I like. Terrible Teddy, Much Ado About The Duke, The Sensational Mr. Sam, and The Tragedy of Lord George (with its "shaving cream notes" in the mid), and Castille among them. MDCI Invasion Barbare is #2 in my barbershop Fougere collection. I have the "Ceasars bust" cap because I love presentation and I'm a sucker. I think the fragrance is totally worth the hype. It's a masterpiece in my opinion. One of the few things I agree with Luca Turin on. I also have Chypre Palatin, which I consider more of an Amber fragrance rather than a Chypre. OK, so Amuage Bracken Man. It's the most photorealistic Fougere I've ever smelled. It literally smells like a forest of ferns in a damp, earthy, muddy low-lying marshy area. It smells like the imaginary green of the fern frond together with the damp, earthy, muddy roots. And Bracken Man otherwise smells similar to Rodrigo Flores-Roux' 2010 reimagined Houbigant Fougere Royale. I agree Roja Scandal might be more Citrus Aromatic than Fougere. Roja Danger is probably more Fougere. My current "Barbershop" fougere favorite top five: 1. Tom Ford Beau de Jour 2. MDCI Invasion Barbare 3. YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme 4. Penhaligon Sartorial 5. Floris Elite Favorite "other than barbershop" Fougeres/classical fougeres/other even if a modern take: 1. Creed Bois du Portugal (many consider this a 'barbershop' Fougere and I have no problem with that. I just for some reason consider this a wood-forward Fougere rather than barbershopy.) 2. Houbigant Fougere Royale (2010) 3. Amouage Bracken Man
Amazing comment! I was blessed enough to sniff real tonka bean extrait thanks to Russian Adam & he mentioned to me much of the modern "coumarin" is synthetically created in a lab now a days 😒 Great comment my friend... love reading your thoughts as you are usually spot on 😊
I would love to know who did Viking. Gabe is on Persolaise tomorrow, would love to ask him. 🤔 Still watching at the time of writing this but great video so far! Absolutely brilliant. 👏🏼
@@RamseytheRam 😂🤷🏻♂️ I am interested for your take on Les Indomadables Fougère Émeraude, most unique fougere I have ever smelled. Big question is, do you like tuberose? 👀
I ordered some samples recently, Creed Viking included. heard it has some saltiness in the opening, which i absolutely adore in millesime imperial, so im really excited to try
Great list. Ever tried Zino by Davidoff? Definitely one of my favourite fougeres. My latest buy is Fougere D Argent by Tom Ford and it's great. Smooth and classy fougere and has similarities with Sartorial by Penhaligon's. I'm jealous of that Azzaro pour homme vintage bottle:)
Terrific list. I’m With you on Amouage bracken Man - loved what Christopher Chong did when he was in charge and Bracken Man really stands out from the crowd with its use of clove.
Halston Z-14 preceded 1-12 by a couple years. Z was my first fragrance purchased as a teen, then Grey Flannel in 1975, then 1-12 in 1976, then Polo in 1978, then Calvin in 1981. Probably some others too. 1-12 was my jam though. But most people thought Z - 14 was better. Still have some bottles now, though not the originals. I flew through those back in the day. Calvin the only one I can’t find.
Thanks for sharing .. so fragrantica was actually correct this time 😯 I found a completely unused bottle of calvin from 1981 for 100 bucks within the last few years they are out there ... keep looking 👍
You should grab a bottle before the prices go through the roof... these azzaro pour homme with the sticker on the front are still not super expensive 👍🍻
First of all another great overview.... Now as for that Bally that is going straight on the list.... I've been able to cobble together some of what's in it lavender anise fennel patchouli Vetiver leather I'm sure more but that's as far as I've discovered. Thanks for the heads up ✌️
I did a little reading on lavindin a while ago because my favorite barbershop Fougere, Tom Ford Beau de Jour, has both lavender and lavendin notes. Basically what I gleaned from my reading is that lavendin is essentially a hybrid plant of what's known as English lavender and Portuguese lavender. I think it's the English lavender that is also referred to as "spike" lavender. And one of the big differences between lavender and lavendin is that lavendin has a stronger camphor accord. There was a lab chart of some sort in some of the reading I did and it showed a camphor presence in lavender of below 1%, but in lavendin it was like 10 times that. I think Creed Viking is probably more of a Spicy Aromatic fragrance than a Fougere. Maybe Fougere touches with the lavender but it's so spicy it breaks the prototype Fougere structure.
Most of what you wrote is correct James but you got one thing mixed up ... Lavender is much more Camphoraceaous, Lavendin is softer due to the lower levels of linalyl acetate according to the in house perfumer of Casa de Ramsey ... Mr Jura Rose 🌹
@@RamseytheRam I guess this system doesn't accept pasted hyperlinks. I posted a link with the quote but it disappeared. So the first two sites I randomly went to just now basically said the same thing: "Far from just being an 'affordable Lavender', Lavandin Essential Oil displays its own distinctive benefits and rich characteristics. It has a bright and intense aroma, with a fragrance body that is more herbaceous and camphoraceous but still has light, underlying touches of Lavender's sweet-floral scent" "Lavandin oil contains a much higher percentage of camphor. Typically English Lavender essential oil contains between 0%-0.6% camphor, whereas Lavandin oil contains between 6%-10% camphor. This makes Lavandin scent stronger and more pungent like medicine, whereas English Lavender oil produces a more subtle, sweet, floral aroma that is sought after" But I got the "spike" lavender attribution wrong, it's the Portuguese lavender. Evidently English lavender is also called "true" lavender. As I posted in the list post, I'm not an expert in this.
Lavender was very common for men who wore it in the English royal court in Elizabethan times..Kent in South East England has acres and acres of fields where they still grow English Lavender
@@RamseytheRam I have an old vintage. Raised logo like yours but I feel the design is a bit different. There is so much different formulations of that stuff it's hard to tell!
@@RamseytheRam I’m struggling in the Fougere category. The only ones I claim are NY Imtense ( I guess it’s a Fougere), Elysium Cologne( a con job) and a vintage Eau Sauvage. I have far an middle Eastern, incense, musks, and chypre wearer by happenstance.
I think viking is a fantastic fragrance...i wish i knew who the perfumer is... on the other side of the coin viking COLOGNE is one of the worst things i have ever smelled.. smells like toilete bowl or floor cleaner... cant be the same perfumer it just cant be .. i refuse to believe it😧
i bought a vintage bottle of 1-12, was the most horribly spoiled vintage i ever bought haha. then i bought the new formula....ugh lol its so cheap smelling and crappy man. you can tell what the old one must have been like when they used better ingredients, oakmoss, blended it properly, ect
To me its the original standard from which all others compare to. That in and of itself commands respect. That and it is different enough from the others to warrant a purchase. Can be found relatively inexpensive. Wholeheartedly recommend it
Don't go out and get Hobigant Fougere Royal. I'll send you some from the 2010 stuff. The Pure&Extrait. I'll get them out this Tuesday as well as the others. You can judge them as you see fit. My Viking is from 2018, and I just got it last year. I love it. Yes, I smell ambergris also. I get excellent performance from it. BlacrockBR? I was on their website today. Candles, home fragrances, etc. They changed the website some. Raised R. Got it. I know I can find a bottle of TSAR in a garage sale. The antique shops where I used to find older colognes have all caught on. That means I'll have to get to those estate/garage sales before they do. The competition is going to be tough though. Bally Masculine. It was just at perfume 99 for 55 not long ago. Couldn't post the link. That was there not too long ago. Now a 10 ml is over the one00. The stuff's out there. I know it is. It's not all gone or is it extremely limited. It's finite, yes, but when coupled with IFRA regulations, and with something most don't talk about, inflation, items like luxury goods, perfumes, antiques, etc, do extremely well. BR knew what it was doing. I mentioned this on one of Eugene's streams some time ago. L'Insoumus Lalique. Certainly will check it out. I like Geroge's Signature Pour Homme. Kinda sells out quick though. I haven't sampled anything from Rouge. I will sample this one. Bon Monsieur Oh, getting Les Indomables, not sure if that's how you spell it, sample set straight from them very soon. Excited. I'm going to be getting a number of vintage decants also. Just have to order them. I feel the need to tell him about the huge price increases though. It would seem his prices haven't been adjusted yet. I'll do that when I place the order. Have you sampled Special For Gentlemen by Le Gallion? I like it. I wish I bought English Fern when Penhalogin's still made it. The performance was kinda poor, but because of that, you could pick it up for a song. Thank you for showing us the bottoms of the bottles. We appreciate it. Have a great week ahead.
Thanks for the very kind gesture on the decants... I havent smelled anything from Le Gallion... i think you would really like bon monsieur mate .. cheers & lemme know what u think of the les indemodables 🍻
I love fougeres! You showcased some great fragrances - many of which I enjoy. I know it's sacrilege but I never cared for the re-release of Houbigant's Fougere Royale. Congrats on your unicorn of Bally Masculin. Lomani Pour Homme is such a great cheapie! Couldn't stand Milano Cento. Rogue's Bon Monsieur can go head to head with Gucci Nobile in my book! Invasion Barbare is absolutely fantastic - much better than HDP 1725. Bracken Man is superb and Scandal PH is very good too! Another great video Ramsey - keep 'em coming!
Hard to do a tour because of my setup ... there are other things around the fragrances I dont want on a youtube video 😁 maybe one day I will clear everything else out and just show the fragrances but not right now to much work lol
So few reviewers actually bring the breadth and depth of content that you do. You clearly have years of experience with hundreds of fragrances, and this is the foundation of the informed opinions that I appreciate. Keep it up.
Thanks for sharing & watching Russ.. i agree we should get our nose on as many fragrances as you can.. it will make your nose mature & understand fragrance history & trends better 😊
Need to get a decant of Viking!! Been hesitant but you got me to pull the trigger. Also got Azarro PH (vintage) coming in the mail. I really enjoy watching your videos , it gives me such a perspective on vintage fragrances that other RUclipsrs fail to provide. Honestly I go to sleep listening to your videos because they are so long and when something catches my attention I'll wake up and write it down before I forget... Starting to collect vintages now and even found Rive Gauche mini at a local antique store near me. Of course I had to pick it up for $15!! You really have educated me in perfumery in all things amouage, fougere, chypre, leather accords, and so much more
It's so funny how you mentioned the coconut accord in Tsar! I was looking at it and was like wtf 😂 too bad it's almost $200-300 for a bottle
Also, please link Ashanti perfumes, I'm struggling to find it online
Thanks for watching mate & for the support 💪🐏
Just bought the Loewe Esencia vintage bottle what a gem Ramsey!! fantastic, and timeless fougere I found that fregrance is the most favorite for the Former King of Saudi Arabia King Abdullah.
That's great info thanks so much for sharing ... I will review it on the channel soon 💪🐏
Yes sir. Great analysis.
I am so simple. YSL Jazz, Rona Scandal and and (possibly) Tom Ford Beau de Jour check all the boxes.
Jazz is my favorite of the bunch ... but Scandal Pour Homme is good too 💪🐏
AZZARO Pour Homme (1978) was the first fragrance I ever bought with my own money. This was back in ‘85, and I remember paying a whopping $38 for a 50ml bottle (half a paycheque from my summer job). As a preening sixteen year-old, I felt on top of the world whenever I splashed it on. I’ve worn hundreds of fragrances since, but AZZARO PH will always hold a special place in my heart.
I dont blame you one bit .. one of the greatest fougere frags of all time 🤌🤌🤌
YSL Rive Gauche THE GOAT of fougère/barbershop fragrances!!!! Masterpiece! 💯
It really is... one of the all time greats 💈
Le Barbier De Tanger from MDCI is another one I love beside Invasion Barbare and Chypre Palatin. Has old school 80s vibes to me and more interesting than Invasion Barbare.
Yes I have a sample of it & I really like it.. i dont know if I would buy a full bottle though 🤔
Great video. For me it is Tsar and after that alk the rest. No matter how many masterpieces I smell, how many classic combinations, Tsar is always there , unbeatable, like that one person in your life that knocks your socks off(romantically) , no matter how many other persons you meet. I am surprised that you don't mention Bijan, the absolute most underrated bargain masterpiece, winner for best fragrance of the year award in 1987, a bomb of oakmoss , honey and other goodies.
Yes Bijan is most definately a great cheepie but I didnt think about including it in my fougere list.. when I make a cheepie list it will be there 👍
Bally!
🐑🦆 Bally Masculin makes an appearance 😊
Not a fougère but Fidji was another popular Guy Laroche that was very popular in the 80s. Probably the only hit from that house as far as women targeted frags were concerned. I was and still am a Guerlain head so I don’t recall what the scent was exactly.
I have never smelled Fidji but I would like to one day... thanks for watching & commenting 🙏
Great video, not the easiest family of fragrances for me to love. I like the idea of using them in the summer, will do!
I wonder about what a feminine fougere would be like, but not necessarily overusing floral to do so.
Fougere catagory grew on me over time Jobannah.... I think traditionally Fougere is seen as such a masculin accord ... Les Indemodables has a fougere with a Tuberose note in it I think 🏵
@@RamseytheRam I wanto experiment with making some feminine fougeres, but I haven’t found any florals that I really enjoy using yet.
@@RamseytheRam and was that a Ramsey Channel Award 🥉 for comment participation in your comment? If so, I humbly accept it!
Duc de vervins is really nice. I haven't tried the extreme version. I bought a 2 pack special and sent one to my Dad for his birthday with some Jade east cologne and aftershave. He had bought some Jade east when it released in Vietnam in 69. 😅 glad I wasn't there for war !! But i bet the experience was cool and he wanted to experience it again. So I surprised him for his birthday. 😂
Amazing Birthday gift to your old man 🥳 thanks to him for serving our country... my uncle was a vietnam vet and eventually all the stuff from Nam like Agent orange ended up killing him 🥺
@@RamseytheRam 😊 They don't make men like that anymore. I don't like politics but today's state of affairs is biblical. 1969 when he bought it. It released in 64
Really enjoying going through videos mate. I couldn’t believe back in 2012 while in one of my favourite Hong Kong fragrance shops I found a bottle just like your Charles Jordan for $20 AUD 😱
What a steal!! 💪💪
That is amazing... thanks so much for watching & commenting 🍻
Late to the party, however, this was in part a trip down memory lane and.... some more stuff to add to the sniff list. Brilliant stuff.
Thank you my friend... love a good fougere 😁
Fougeres are great. Wore Jicky today. I find Chanel Boy to be an interesting modern and unisex fougere.
Yes agreed...i dont have Boy but I love Jicky & mouchour de monsiuer 🌿
Thanks for watching & commenting 😊
@@RamseytheRam I recommend trying Boy. There’s an interesting interplay of male and female florals when I wear it.
I will put it on the "to sniff list" thanks for the rec 👍😊
I know I've said it before....your collection, something else! Great take on fougeres often seen as an 'older' man's scent. Just don't get it, we all get older and today's 'in' scent will get categorized in time. But in this space you're creating we get to appreciate the wear of scents as a pleasure disregarding the nonsense on other fragrance channels. Appreciate all you're doing and sharing your knowledge.
Cheers.
Thanks my friend.. really enjoying creating the type of content I would want to watch😁
On a side note if when I make these videos I am missing a fougere fragrance or leather or whatever the video is if there is something you think I should check out please let me know & I will put it on the to sniff list 😊
@@RamseytheRam Sure, you're so well informed already. If there's a decent price on the original Drakkar I'd give it a go. The bottle top is cheap plastic dressed up to look like chrome. So if you see a worn top I'd be dubious of the quality of the juice. Another popular Guy Laroche at the time was J'ai Osé, the girls loved saying the name as much as the scent,a bit like anais anais sounded lovely rolling of the tongue.
Awesome thanks for that ... i will keep an eye out 😊
Fortunate to have found a very vintage(1910s or 1920s) Fougere Royale some years ago. Dark juice but you can tell by the scent that the quality of ingredients used back then was incomparable. If you like Drakkar Noir, you should check Grigio Perla. Very similar but an Italian twist to DN. Discontinued not too long ago. Great job as always.
Wow i bet that fougere royale from a century ago is amazing.. i have never smelled Grigio Perla but I will put it on the to sniff list 😊🌿
It is amazing. I’m sure it’s macerated over the years but I wouldn’t know the difference how much it’s deviated from the original scent as time passed by. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised with Grigio Perla. One of my favorite fougeres.
I forgot I posted below a long time ago. Anyway, I rewatched this video and have some additional thoughts.
Really nice video treatment of the Fougere. You're the top RUclips or otherwise fragrance content provider in my opinion.
I'm not sure Creed Viking is a fougere. It does have a lavender note and 'earthy' and 'green' accords listed in Fragrantica. The green and earthy accords could approximate coumarin which is not explicitly listed. It's generally thought that a Fougère is defined by the lavender-coumarin accord. But Viking has a lot more going on which really veers its overall effect away from this dominant Fougere accord. Absinthe, pink pepper, mint, jasmine, etc. To me it has vibes closer to a traditional bay rum than to solidly Fougere fragrances. It's so mentholated and spicy some people say it smells like Tiger Balm. Fragrantica lists it as a "Woody Aromatic" fragrance. I think Viking is a creation that cuts across genres, and does have some Fougere characteristics. But I think Woody or Spicy Aromatic is more accurate than Fougere. Mr. Smelly, in his latest video, says that Creed Bois du Portugal may be more of a Woody Aromatic than a Fougere, but to me BdP is definitely more of a wood-forward Fougere. Fougere is my favorite genre so I'm sensitive about the general indiscriminant overuse of that genre in classifying fragrances. If everything is a Fougere then nothing is. Fougere has its defining prototype, the 1882 Houbigant Fougere Royale, in much the same way that impressionist art has its defining prototype - Claude Monet's painting called Impression Sunrise. And we don't call a Salvador Dali painting an example of Impressionistism. All that said, I guess your "modern fougere" designation would be more palatable to me. At least it qualifies the designation, essentially alerting to the non-conformity to traditional Fougere characteristics.
By the way, some fragrances have the note of coumarin listed separate to the note of tonka bean. This, to my understanding of coumarin, points to an interesting fact. I think the original coumarin note in Fougere Royale was extracted from tonka bean. But in isolation, imparts a different smell than tonka bean as a whole, which may have the coumarin-like earthy dried hay smell only as a facet. Moreover, I read that coumarin is actually a constituent part of a lot of things, like lavender for example. I guess what I'm saying by all this is that just because a fragrance lists a tonka bean note and lavender note, it does not necessarily mean it will have that tell-tale defining Fougere accord of lavender-coumarin.
I have a modern formulation of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, but it's at the back of my barbershop Fougere collection because to my nose it smells of cheap laundry soap.
I like Azzaro Pour Homme, which to me competes with YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme for the title of most quintessential barbershop Fougere by scent profile. But Azzaro Pour Homme does not remind me of Creed Viking, certainly not as much as a bay rum does.
I have Milano Cento in my barbershop Fougere collection and it does have a slightly "dirty" vibe, but one that is palatable to my nose. Kouros, which isn't a Fougere, is just gross to me. Milano Cento is similar to Lancetti Monsieur.
I have Lalique L'Insoumis (pronounced more like "lawn-sue-me" in French, and means "The Rebel"), and it has a unique lemon/coconut pie like accord. Unique modern Fougere. Of course there is the Bois du Portugal near-clone Lalique Pour Homme "lion".
The two Rogue Perfumery fragrances I consider fougeres are Bon Monsieur and Fougere L'Aube. I don't consider Mousse Illuminee to be a Fougere. I have Bon Monsieur and Fougere L'Aube is on my to-buy list.
Sartorial by Penhaligon, #4 in my barbershop Fougere collection, is my favorite Penhaligon. But there are a lot of Penhaligon's I like. Terrible Teddy, Much Ado About The Duke, The Sensational Mr. Sam, and The Tragedy of Lord George (with its "shaving cream notes" in the mid), and Castille among them.
MDCI Invasion Barbare is #2 in my barbershop Fougere collection. I have the "Ceasars bust" cap because I love presentation and I'm a sucker. I think the fragrance is totally worth the hype. It's a masterpiece in my opinion. One of the few things I agree with Luca Turin on. I also have Chypre Palatin, which I consider more of an Amber fragrance rather than a Chypre.
OK, so Amuage Bracken Man. It's the most photorealistic Fougere I've ever smelled. It literally smells like a forest of ferns in a damp, earthy, muddy low-lying marshy area. It smells like the imaginary green of the fern frond together with the damp, earthy, muddy roots. And Bracken Man otherwise smells similar to Rodrigo Flores-Roux' 2010 reimagined Houbigant Fougere Royale.
I agree Roja Scandal might be more Citrus Aromatic than Fougere. Roja Danger is probably more Fougere.
My current "Barbershop" fougere favorite top five:
1. Tom Ford Beau de Jour
2. MDCI Invasion Barbare
3. YSL Rive Gauche Pour Homme
4. Penhaligon Sartorial
5. Floris Elite
Favorite "other than barbershop" Fougeres/classical fougeres/other even if a modern take:
1. Creed Bois du Portugal (many consider this a 'barbershop' Fougere and I have no problem with that. I just for some reason consider this a wood-forward Fougere rather than barbershopy.)
2. Houbigant Fougere Royale (2010)
3. Amouage Bracken Man
Amazing comment! I was blessed enough to sniff real tonka bean extrait thanks to Russian Adam & he mentioned to me much of the modern "coumarin" is synthetically created in a lab now a days 😒
Great comment my friend... love reading your thoughts as you are usually spot on 😊
I would love to know who did Viking. Gabe is on Persolaise tomorrow, would love to ask him. 🤔
Still watching at the time of writing this but great video so far! Absolutely brilliant. 👏🏼
Thanks Jura 😊 ur right it would be a great question to ask Gabe... i would love to know who made viking 🌿
@@RamseytheRam That Rive Gauche bottle reminds me of a light saber 😂
Ur on a star wars kick... i get shaving cream cannister but a light saber bottle would br bad azz 😊
@@RamseytheRam 😂🤷🏻♂️
I am interested for your take on Les Indomadables Fougère Émeraude, most unique fougere I have ever smelled. Big question is, do you like tuberose? 👀
I like tuberose in poison & teatra alla scala... never smelled fougere emeraud though 😧🌿
Watching now. thanks for giving halston some love
I ordered some samples recently, Creed Viking included. heard it has some saltiness in the opening, which i absolutely adore in millesime imperial, so im really excited to try
I find the dry down is where that salty ambergris kicks in... maybe you get a whisper of it in tje opening.. do let me know what you think of it 🤞😊
Great list. Ever tried Zino by Davidoff? Definitely one of my favourite fougeres. My latest buy is Fougere D Argent by Tom Ford and it's great. Smooth and classy fougere and has similarities with Sartorial by Penhaligon's. I'm jealous of that Azzaro pour homme vintage bottle:)
Yes I have THREE Lancaster version bottles of zino I love it so much🤣
Never smelled fougere D Argent.. i will put it on the to sniff list 😊
Man, at least someone honored the extraordinary viking (in it s og form) that mint, rose, Sandelwood & lavendin combo ;-)
Love it so much i got the big boy bottle.... 500ml 💪💪
Terrific list. I’m With you on Amouage bracken Man - loved what Christopher Chong did when he was in charge and Bracken Man really stands out from the crowd with its use of clove.
Its amazing isnt it Benji.. love chongs way of doing things.. they really miss him 😢
Halston Z-14 preceded 1-12 by a couple years. Z was my first fragrance purchased as a teen, then Grey Flannel in 1975, then 1-12 in 1976, then Polo in 1978, then Calvin in 1981. Probably some others too. 1-12 was my jam though. But most people thought Z - 14 was better. Still have some bottles now, though not the originals. I flew through those back in the day. Calvin the only one I can’t find.
Thanks for sharing .. so fragrantica was actually correct this time 😯
I found a completely unused bottle of calvin from 1981 for 100 bucks within the last few years they are out there ... keep looking 👍
Wonderful collection. I want to try that vintage Azarro Pour Homme
You should grab a bottle before the prices go through the roof... these azzaro pour homme with the sticker on the front are still not super expensive 👍🍻
First of all another great overview.... Now as for that Bally that is going straight on the list.... I've been able to cobble together some of what's in it lavender anise fennel patchouli Vetiver leather I'm sure more but that's as far as I've discovered. Thanks for the heads up ✌️
Oh and about Sartorial. Just picked that up last week. I'm really enjoying that.
Bally masculin is amazing ... could eaisily be a signature scent... i get the lavender and leather.... lovely🍻🍻
I love duchafours work.. everything he touches is a winner 👍
I did a little reading on lavindin a while ago because my favorite barbershop Fougere, Tom Ford Beau de Jour, has both lavender and lavendin notes. Basically what I gleaned from my reading is that lavendin is essentially a hybrid plant of what's known as English lavender and Portuguese lavender. I think it's the English lavender that is also referred to as "spike" lavender. And one of the big differences between lavender and lavendin is that lavendin has a stronger camphor accord. There was a lab chart of some sort in some of the reading I did and it showed a camphor presence in lavender of below 1%, but in lavendin it was like 10 times that.
I think Creed Viking is probably more of a Spicy Aromatic fragrance than a Fougere. Maybe Fougere touches with the lavender but it's so spicy it breaks the prototype Fougere structure.
Interesting stuff thanks so much for sharing 😊
Most of what you wrote is correct James but you got one thing mixed up ... Lavender is much more Camphoraceaous, Lavendin is softer due to the lower levels of linalyl acetate according to the in house perfumer of Casa de Ramsey ... Mr Jura Rose 🌹
@@RamseytheRam I guess this system doesn't accept pasted hyperlinks. I posted a link with the quote but it disappeared. So the first two sites I randomly went to just now basically said the same thing:
"Far from just being an 'affordable Lavender', Lavandin Essential Oil displays its own distinctive benefits and rich characteristics. It has a bright and intense aroma, with a fragrance body that is more herbaceous and camphoraceous but still has light, underlying touches of Lavender's sweet-floral scent"
"Lavandin oil contains a much higher percentage of camphor. Typically English Lavender essential oil contains between 0%-0.6% camphor, whereas Lavandin oil contains between 6%-10% camphor. This makes Lavandin scent stronger and more pungent like medicine, whereas English Lavender oil produces a more subtle, sweet, floral aroma that is sought after"
But I got the "spike" lavender attribution wrong, it's the Portuguese lavender. Evidently English lavender is also called "true" lavender.
As I posted in the list post, I'm not an expert in this.
Lavender was very common for men who wore it in the English royal court in Elizabethan times..Kent in South East England has acres and acres of fields where they still grow English Lavender
Thanks for sharing and watching & commenting 👍
@@RamseytheRam ..pleasures all mine Ramsey..keep up the good work mate..you and rich mitch doing proper old skool fragrance reviews..top stuff buddy 👍
Rogue perfumery has some real good stuff!
Have you tried out Fougere L'Aube?
Yes I have a sample floating around somewhere... I remember there being a huge Jasmine in the top if memory serves 😄
If anybody wants vintage loewe essencia, i just bought a gift set with aftershave balm for 80 bucks on ebay, they had 4 left last i saw (3/13/2023)
Wow that is a fantastic deal Sean... thanks for sharing 🙂
Would love to get your thoughts on Patrick, Patrick of Ireland if you know it. Thanks.
Never smelled it unfortunately ... maybe one day 🤌🤌🤌
I never got the animalic honey in Paco Rabanne Pour Homme. It's a geranium bomb for me.
I only get it in the vintage with the raised R... not the modern stuff
@@RamseytheRam I have an old vintage. Raised logo like yours but I feel the design is a bit different. There is so much different formulations of that stuff it's hard to tell!
Yes ur right! I would be curious .. email me a pic of it if you are up for it.. my email is in the video description
Great Class Ramsey.
Thanks for watching Shiva... what are some of your favorite fougeres?
@@RamseytheRam I’m struggling in the Fougere category. The only ones I claim are NY Imtense ( I guess it’s a Fougere), Elysium Cologne( a con job) and a vintage Eau Sauvage. I have far an middle Eastern, incense, musks, and chypre wearer by happenstance.
@@shivavereen7824 man there are some amazing fougeres listed in this video.. try and get your nose on some of them 😊
@@RamseytheRam It’s definitely in the works. I actually have a nice birthday haul I’m compiling with 2 Floris Fougeres being delivered.
Nice report back sometime with what you get & your thoughts once you get your nose on them 😊
Hapoy Early Birthday 🥳
You say love Rogue (Manuel Cross) but so far you only reviewed this two.
Yup many of my most loved fragrances are still unreviewed... it means the best is still to come on my channel 😁
And another one. 💯
Fougere fragrances 😍🌿
@@RamseytheRam ..on second bottle of Mousse
Nice video, man
Thanks for watching & commenting 😊🌿
@@RamseytheRam i own the Viking and your description gave me confidence because I was wondering if I was enjoying it too much
I think viking is a fantastic fragrance...i wish i knew who the perfumer is... on the other side of the coin viking COLOGNE is one of the worst things i have ever smelled.. smells like toilete bowl or floor cleaner... cant be the same perfumer it just cant be .. i refuse to believe it😧
@@RamseytheRam maybe every perfumer has their ying and yang creations… and they forgot to Yang that one in the bin 🗑
😂😂
i bought a vintage bottle of 1-12, was the most horribly spoiled vintage i ever bought haha. then i bought the new formula....ugh lol its so cheap smelling and crappy man. you can tell what the old one must have been like when they used better ingredients, oakmoss, blended it properly, ect
it still has the interesting floral stuff going on though, just smells cheap
Yeah EA really cheaped out on the formula of Halston in the newer bottles... its now totally discontinued 🥲
My favorite!
A great fougere fragrance really hits home🌿
I am a Halston fan. Great old school structures for pennies on the dollar. All are suberb for what they are.
Fougere Royale
I dont own it.. is it worth adding with all these other fougeres I already have? Or is it redundant do u think?
To me its the original standard from which all others compare to. That in and of itself commands respect. That and it is different enough from the others to warrant a purchase. Can be found relatively inexpensive. Wholeheartedly recommend it
Yeahhhhh buddy
Yeaaahhh buddyyy🌿
Don't go out and get Hobigant Fougere Royal.
I'll send you some from the 2010 stuff. The Pure&Extrait.
I'll get them out this Tuesday as well as the others.
You can judge them as you see fit.
My Viking is from 2018, and I just got it last year.
I love it. Yes, I smell ambergris also.
I get excellent performance from it.
BlacrockBR? I was on their website today. Candles, home fragrances, etc.
They changed the website some.
Raised R. Got it.
I know I can find a bottle of TSAR in a garage sale.
The antique shops where I used to find older colognes have all caught on.
That means I'll have to get to those estate/garage sales before they do.
The competition is going to be tough though.
Bally Masculine. It was just at perfume 99 for 55 not long ago. Couldn't post the link.
That was there not too long ago.
Now a 10 ml is over the one00.
The stuff's out there. I know it is. It's not all gone or is it extremely limited.
It's finite, yes, but when coupled with IFRA regulations, and with something most don't talk about,
inflation, items like luxury goods, perfumes, antiques, etc, do extremely well.
BR knew what it was doing.
I mentioned this on one of Eugene's streams some time ago.
L'Insoumus Lalique. Certainly will check it out.
I like Geroge's Signature Pour Homme. Kinda sells out quick though.
I haven't sampled anything from Rouge. I will sample this one. Bon Monsieur
Oh, getting Les Indomables, not sure if that's how you spell it, sample set straight from them very soon.
Excited.
I'm going to be getting a number of vintage decants also. Just have to order them.
I feel the need to tell him about the huge price increases though.
It would seem his prices haven't been adjusted yet. I'll do that when I place the order.
Have you sampled Special For Gentlemen by Le Gallion?
I like it. I wish I bought English Fern when Penhalogin's still made it.
The performance was kinda poor, but because of that, you could pick it up for a song.
Thank you for showing us the bottoms of the bottles.
We appreciate it.
Have a great week ahead.
Thanks for the very kind gesture on the decants... I havent smelled anything from Le Gallion... i think you would really like bon monsieur mate .. cheers & lemme know what u think of the les indemodables 🍻
I love fougeres! You showcased some great fragrances - many of which I enjoy. I know it's sacrilege but I never cared for the re-release of Houbigant's Fougere Royale. Congrats on your unicorn of Bally Masculin. Lomani Pour Homme is such a great cheapie! Couldn't stand Milano Cento. Rogue's Bon Monsieur can go head to head with Gucci Nobile in my book! Invasion Barbare is absolutely fantastic - much better than HDP 1725. Bracken Man is superb and Scandal PH is very good too! Another great video Ramsey - keep 'em coming!
Never smelled gucci nobile but you saying bon monsieur can go head to head with it probably takes it off my list ... i forgot to show 1725 🤦♂️
@@RamseytheRam Do you have a dedicated room or walk in closet for your collection? Give us a tour!
Hard to do a tour because of my setup ... there are other things around the fragrances I dont want on a youtube video 😁 maybe one day I will clear everything else out and just show the fragrances but not right now to much work lol