Training for climbing: Endurance with Alex Barrows
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- Опубликовано: 19 окт 2024
- We picked the brains of Alex Barrows on how he trains endurance, and what specific training he did to climb Era Vella (9a).
Session Plan:
Base endurance:
20-40 minutes on the wall
A feeling of bloodflow in the forearms, or a light pump but always in control
Training for longer, pumpy routes:
Circuit of approx. 30 moves
Rest between circuits should be around the same amount of time as it took to climb
Aim for 8 repetitions, you should be failing on the last 1-2 of these.
You can adjust the difficulty of the circuit and the length of the rests slightly in order to get the level of difficulty right
Back to back problems:
Pick 4 problems which are quite hard for you
Each problem should be 5-7 moves long
Climb them back-to-back with only a short rest (15 seconds or less)
Then take a long rest (10-20 minutes). Repeat the exercise 3 more times.
Foot-on campusing:
Pick a sequence of hand moves.
You can slow the movements down by incorporating foot movements, or by counting in your head. This is especially useful if you're training for onsighting.
Try starting with 1 minute on the board, 1 minute rest
Aim for 8 repetitions, again, you should be failing in the last 1-2 repetitions
For the next session, reduce the rest time slightly
I get good results doing this exercises after finishing the back-to-back problems exercise mentioned above
This video inspired me to change my entire training plan. I will no longer spend time hang boarding and on the campus board, but instead I will do circuits. It's September 2015 and I'll be reporting back in the Spring 2016 to let everyone know how it went. Wish me luck!
So ? Do you improve your climbing skills with this tips ?
+Amylxb If he stuck with it, it's working wonders I bet. In just 3 weeks of doing long lap sessions at a gym with auto-belays about every other day I've probably nearly doubled my endurance and have gone from being able to redpoint 10d routes to being on the verge of 12a routes. And that was short burst 10s to longer more sustained 12s. Diet is also crucial though. I've been sucking down whey like no tomorrow and have also cut out all processed foods and supplementing with some really high quality supplements. Protein and veggies and fruits for foods.
Amylxb Takes up my whole afternoon darn near every other day, but it's so worth it. My general self confidence has gone up as well now that I'm probably in the best upper body shape of my life (used to do alot of hiking in the Grand Canyon so i can't say the same about lower body).
+Rock&Ride Well, it's spring. How did you do?
How did it go??!
So..... I should start building my endurance by staying 20 MINUTES on the wall? Jesus dude.....
+qhdaful hahaha exactly what I thought. Definitely not a training for beginners.
+qhdaful I think if you can't do that with big holds and easy routes, then your best bet is to just go climbing instead of concentrating on specialized endurance training. Training like this is not really necessary at a stage where your climbing improves well just by climbing more. I think this is more directed towards the more experienced climbers.
I got to 4 minutes on the easiest holds on a vertical wall at my gym. 16 more minutes and I can begin my training, wohoo!
qhdaful don’t forget it has to be a slight pump
It's not as hard and long as it sounds. It takes about 2 weeks to build that kind of endurance. Of course you have to be on an easy route. highly recommended.
'''back to back problems''' that's hard for me,,but i'll try it..hopely i can do it
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