One reason a traditional fireplace or woodburning stove is inefficient is the intake air being drawn into the house from outside via every little unsealed nook and cranny. Then you end up just heating other areas of the home more than you normally would, which cancels out the heat produced by the fireplace. A sealed direct outdoor air source keeps that from happening. In this case, there was an outdoor air source from the old cleanout that looked like a great solution.
Yes it would have been ideal to have the air intake use outside air. Unfortunately this unit was not designed to draw outside air into the firebox. We did try looking for one that could do this, but it seems most insert units aren’t really designed to do that. Additionally we wanted a certain look along with a unit that meets a certain efficiency rating so it would qualify for a tax credit. When we looked there were only a few designs of these inserts that would even qualify for the tax credit. However the air displacement of the insert should be far less than the prior set up… so less outside air will creep in while running a fire.
@@TheArtOfHomeownership You might also want to look into an Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) or Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV). The effect is to provide the makeup air used in combustion from outside the home through a controlled process that transfers the heat energy from the air exhausting the home to the cold air entering the home so you're not losing all the heat out through the exhaust. ERV/HRV's are usually plumbed into forced air ducting with an intake and exhaust outside the home. Using one of these would offset the fact that the insert doesn't draw outside air for combustion and reduce drafts in the home.
Nice job. I did the same for my parents 40 years ago and they absolutely loved the insert. They ran it constantly in the winter. I’m 72 now and this video brought back memories.
Outstanding tutorial. Would recommend using the ash cleanout as a fresh air supply to feed the stove. The stove using interior air is creating drafts. Learned this the hardway.
Cool video and excellent work done by you and your dad. We have an insert very similar to this in our home, with one added advantage. Above the firebox is another box of roughly the same size. It is a plenum chamber with a filtered air intake just above the fireplace. At the top of the plenum chamber are two stand-pipes that are tied into the hot air return for our home. When we have a fire going, the air in the plenum is heated, causing it to rise and pull air through the intake. This forces the air to circulate through the hot air return and down into the ducting in our crawl space, heating the entire home without the need for propane or even electricity.
Great video. As a side note, when we remodeled our home, we used the same insulation in our external and internal walls, as our house was built ‘balloon style’. Meaning fire could easily spread between floors due to the way it’s built. Our home is quiet, draft free and no longer a tinderbox
My inlaws got one of those inserts like 30 years ago.. Very cozy. Especially if you want only some heat in the living room and not heat the entire house.
I purchased an Xtrodinaire fireplace insert back in 2012. American made. Its operates great. We had to have it installed by a certified contractor and inspected by the Fire Department in order to meet Insurance requirements.
Nice job on your new insert. One thing I did with mine was to insulate the back and sides with mineral wool. The same stuff you used around the liner. The R value of brick is practically nothing. Helps keep more heat in the house whether or not you're running the insert.
Good stuff. We had to bypass the temp sensor on our insert. The fan would only run on high for a few minutes at a time despite plenty of heat/coals/etc, then kick back to low. Really annoying but easy to bypass and works great now.
Flexible liner is a total budget job. Cannot be cleaned without damaging. The garbage Dap Dynaflex 230 caulk used to seal the top of the chimney will fail prematurely from excessive temperatures. Always use products properly rated for the job.
Well done! I keep waffling back and forth between doing this or not for my upstairs fireplace. If I stick with the current setup I'm going to need new brick regardless, but if I go with an insert I can get more heat out of it....
Curious, you say the blower must be left running or the box could overheat. I run my fireplace 24-7 during power outages (5-7 days) typical and never worry about overheating. I wonder if they make one for customers that really need it to work on demand all the time.
Yeah.. Installation is not cheap either, which is why we did the install. But depending on the efficiency of the unit, it may be eligable for a tax credit... Thanks Uncle Sam
I am considering having my traditional wood fireplace upgraded with either an insert or wood stove. I experience migraines quite frequently and smell can be a big trigger for me. I can’t take the smell of burning wood (or a gas fireplace either). Currently I’m leaning slightly toward a stove because I’ve seen videos attesting to their superior efficiency. Can you say whether your insert is efficient to the point that you don’t smell the fire?
@ I think that’s probably unavoidable no matter which type we’re talking about - and I hope that bit of “leakage” can be greatly reduced with an air filter, But if the insert otherwise eliminates the smoke smell, then it would be a contender for sure! Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts.
I wonder if you could have avoided some of the awkward installation steps if you would have kept the flexible pipe long and attached it while the insert was not quite in and then pulled it up as you pushed the insert in?
You'd better have installed a big wood stove in front of your chimney ....In your case you mostly heat the chimney....The wood stove pipe would (T shape) have also heat your house......
No, modern fireplaces are typically more efficient than wood stoves. Secondary burn converts most exhaust into heat. Blowers circulate heat into the conditioned space. You want Chimney exhaust to be at least 250F or creosote will build up
When the fire is cranked up and the blowers are running, it puts ot some serious heat. The issue we have is circulating it to others parts of the house.
@@TheArtOfHomeownershipput a small fan on the floor at the lowest setting in the furthest coldest room pointing towards the stove/insert. Not sure of your layout but my living room and foyer are cold and are connected to the family room where the insert is. Ceiling fan in winter mode in the same room as insert plus fans gently blowing cold air from the ground towards the hot room works wonders.
Not really high effecient as it still pulls air from the living space creating drafts. Should have gotten a better insert that pulls air from the outside!
Would have to go through multiple layers of brick to get to some wires. Definitely would have taken more than a few minutes. Also if the power goes out. I want the ability to plug it into an external power source. We would love to add backup power to the home someday…
@@TheArtOfHomeownership yep an Ecoflow or other battery and solar panel would be great. Or two batteries and a solar panel so you can run one while charging the other. Maybe run a meter on the blower to see consumption to get a battery or two that could last a couple days. Lots of ways to slice it.
@@TheArtOfHomeownership I feel like you could trim it out with some kind of non combustible material, masonry bit and tile/thinset if needed. As long as you do it on both sides it will look symmetrical and nice
I did something similar however I filled the space between new liner and existing flue with vermiculite. Cheap and keeps condensation low. Also kept new round flue centered is old flue. You mentioned several times, “kept cost low”. Doing a fireplace for me would not be the project that I would cut cost. Wish you all the best.
Why go to all that work and not have an intake for fresh air? I guess it's warm by the fireplace, but it's gonna be pulling cold into your house unless you crack a window nearby as I do with my old-fashioned and inefficient fireplace.
One reason a traditional fireplace or woodburning stove is inefficient is the intake air being drawn into the house from outside via every little unsealed nook and cranny. Then you end up just heating other areas of the home more than you normally would, which cancels out the heat produced by the fireplace. A sealed direct outdoor air source keeps that from happening. In this case, there was an outdoor air source from the old cleanout that looked like a great solution.
Yes it would have been ideal to have the air intake use outside air. Unfortunately this unit was not designed to draw outside air into the firebox. We did try looking for one that could do this, but it seems most insert units aren’t really designed to do that.
Additionally we wanted a certain look along with a unit that meets a certain efficiency rating so it would qualify for a tax credit. When we looked there were only a few designs of these inserts that would even qualify for the tax credit. However the air displacement of the insert should be far less than the prior set up… so less outside air will creep in while running a fire.
@@TheArtOfHomeownership You might also want to look into an Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) or Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV). The effect is to provide the makeup air used in combustion from outside the home through a controlled process that transfers the heat energy from the air exhausting the home to the cold air entering the home so you're not losing all the heat out through the exhaust. ERV/HRV's are usually plumbed into forced air ducting with an intake and exhaust outside the home. Using one of these would offset the fact that the insert doesn't draw outside air for combustion and reduce drafts in the home.
Nice job. I did the same for my parents 40 years ago and they absolutely loved the insert. They ran it constantly in the winter. I’m 72 now and this video brought back memories.
Steve is a good son.
Outstanding tutorial.
Would recommend using the ash cleanout as a fresh air supply to feed the stove. The stove using interior air is creating drafts.
Learned this the hardway.
Nothing beats wood fireplaces.
Cool video and excellent work done by you and your dad. We have an insert very similar to this in our home, with one added advantage. Above the firebox is another box of roughly the same size. It is a plenum chamber with a filtered air intake just above the fireplace. At the top of the plenum chamber are two stand-pipes that are tied into the hot air return for our home. When we have a fire going, the air in the plenum is heated, causing it to rise and pull air through the intake. This forces the air to circulate through the hot air return and down into the ducting in our crawl space, heating the entire home without the need for propane or even electricity.
Sounds wonderful
I love watching this video. Great job. Please make more
Great video. As a side note, when we remodeled our home, we used the same insulation in our external and internal walls, as our house was built ‘balloon style’. Meaning fire could easily spread between floors due to the way it’s built. Our home is quiet, draft free and no longer a tinderbox
My inlaws got one of those inserts like 30 years ago.. Very cozy. Especially if you want only some heat in the living room and not heat the entire house.
Like the insert y’all went with. It has a timeless look!
I purchased an Xtrodinaire fireplace insert back in 2012. American made. Its operates great. We had to have it installed by a certified contractor and inspected by the Fire Department in order to meet Insurance requirements.
Best install video on here! Great job guys !!
Wow, that looks amazing. Nice job, thanks for being so detailed. Maybe I'll attempt this one day
My wife and i took the plunge and had a Morso insert installed about 10 years ago. It looks and functions great.
Nice job on your new insert. One thing I did with mine was to insulate the back and sides with mineral wool. The same stuff you used around the liner. The R value of brick is practically nothing. Helps keep more heat in the house whether or not you're running the insert.
Is it acceptable by code to have the insulation touching the unit?
Good stuff. We had to bypass the temp sensor on our insert. The fan would only run on high for a few minutes at a time despite plenty of heat/coals/etc, then kick back to low. Really annoying but easy to bypass and works great now.
Had one of those installed several years ago and love it my fireplace was not in bad shape just inefficient heats up most of the house
Great Work!!!
wow professional install for sure
Excellent work
Flexible liner is a total pain in the ass when you clean it. You can punch holes in it super easy
Flexible liner is a total budget job. Cannot be cleaned without damaging. The garbage Dap Dynaflex 230 caulk used to seal the top of the chimney will fail prematurely from excessive temperatures. Always use products properly rated for the job.
Looks great. Great video. now I’m inspired to get one.
Very good and helpful, thanks !
Very interesting. Y'all are definitely ambitious.
Well done! I keep waffling back and forth between doing this or not for my upstairs fireplace. If I stick with the current setup I'm going to need new brick regardless, but if I go with an insert I can get more heat out of it....
Oh my gosh that wasn’t a fire place that was a fire hazard, good job making it usable again.
Definitely worth investing in chimney sweep tools and attachments.
We put a outlet in the fire box for gas inserts but not on wood but that was a very nice installation
back butter....lmao
This is great, I've gotten a lot out of this video.
Curious, you say the blower must be left running or the box could overheat. I run my fireplace 24-7 during power outages (5-7 days) typical and never worry about overheating. I wonder if they make one for customers that really need it to work on demand all the time.
The price of these inserts just boggles my mind though. 4 grand-ish? I just can't... Great video though!
Yeah.. Installation is not cheap either, which is why we did the install. But depending on the efficiency of the unit, it may be eligable for a tax credit... Thanks Uncle Sam
Nice detailed walkthrough and great result. I’m curious what make/model insert you selected. It looks like an Osburn maybe? Thanks for sharing!
Lopi Flush Wood NexGen Hybrid
I am considering having my traditional wood fireplace upgraded with either an insert or wood stove. I experience migraines quite frequently and smell can be a big trigger for me. I can’t take the smell of burning wood (or a gas fireplace either). Currently I’m leaning slightly toward a stove because I’ve seen videos attesting to their superior efficiency. Can you say whether your insert is efficient to the point that you don’t smell the fire?
It is a very efficient unit. However when we open the door to reload some wood, some smoke/fumes tends to get out.
@
I think that’s probably unavoidable no matter which type we’re talking about - and I hope that bit of “leakage” can be greatly reduced with an air filter, But if the insert otherwise eliminates the smoke smell, then it would be a contender for sure! Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts.
I wonder if you could have avoided some of the awkward installation steps if you would have kept the flexible pipe long and attached it while the insert was not quite in and then pulled it up as you pushed the insert in?
You'd better have installed a big wood stove in front of your chimney ....In your case you mostly heat the chimney....The wood stove pipe would (T shape) have also heat your house......
No, modern fireplaces are typically more efficient than wood stoves. Secondary burn converts most exhaust into heat. Blowers circulate heat into the conditioned space. You want Chimney exhaust to be at least 250F or creosote will build up
When the fire is cranked up and the blowers are running, it puts ot some serious heat. The issue we have is circulating it to others parts of the house.
@@TheArtOfHomeownershipput a small fan on the floor at the lowest setting in the furthest coldest room pointing towards the stove/insert. Not sure of your layout but my living room and foyer are cold and are connected to the family room where the insert is. Ceiling fan in winter mode in the same room as insert plus fans gently blowing cold air from the ground towards the hot room works wonders.
You are drawing combustion air from the house? So you are pulling in cold air from outside. Should have used the clean-out for that.
Not really high effecient as it still pulls air from the living space creating drafts. Should have gotten a better insert that pulls air from the outside!
yup, dual tubing liners, one for inlet, one for exhaust
What brand/where did you purchase that insert?
We bought the unit unit at a local fireplace and outdoor furiture dealer. The unit is from Lopi
should have extended the outlet into the old fireplace... went to all the trouble of making everything look great but missed that last touch.
why wouldn't you want to pull air from behind the chimney throught the brick wall instead of through your windows and doors?
I dont have a brick
It's steel and stone and water jacket though the water jack is broken
Are y’all for hire?
All that work and not taking a few minutes to hardwire the blower is a shame. The cord sticking out and running down the hearth is not a good look. ☹
Would have to go through multiple layers of brick to get to some wires. Definitely would have taken more than a few minutes.
Also if the power goes out. I want the ability to plug it into an external power source. We would love to add backup power to the home someday…
@@TheArtOfHomeownershipagreed. I have had my jotul insert in for 11 years, i stopped noticing the wire after a couple months.
@@TheArtOfHomeownership yep an Ecoflow or other battery and solar panel would be great. Or two batteries and a solar panel so you can run one while charging the other. Maybe run a meter on the blower to see consumption to get a battery or two that could last a couple days. Lots of ways to slice it.
@@TheArtOfHomeownership I feel like you could trim it out with some kind of non combustible material, masonry bit and tile/thinset if needed. As long as you do it on both sides it will look symmetrical and nice
I did something similar however I filled the space between new liner and existing flue with vermiculite. Cheap and keeps condensation low. Also kept new round flue centered is old flue. You mentioned several times, “kept cost low”. Doing a fireplace for me would not be the project that I would cut cost. Wish you all the best.
“My old man and I”
Why go to all that work and not have an intake for fresh air? I guess it's warm by the fireplace, but it's gonna be pulling cold into your house unless you crack a window nearby as I do with my old-fashioned and inefficient fireplace.
If you open a window, you are still pulling cold air into the house. How is this different?
that insulation in the vent was inserted the wrong way, cold will penetrated through it
change to horizontal to make it more effective
congrats. you turned a wood burning fireplace........into a wood burning fireplace.
Latex gloves????😢
Not sure why you didn’t wear gloves while doing this
Real man hands obviously.
Click bait.You give the impression you are modifying the existing install, not doing a replacement.
Yeah that liner aint legal.