This is full of great advice. Sadly, most videos I see focus on printing speed and very rarely is the focus on print longevity or efficiency. I don't care how quickly I can print it off if i have to keep reprinting because they keep breaking. When it comes to print placement I spend more time orienting them for the best balanced between strength and minimal filament use. If a print take twice as long but uses 1/3 the plastic because I don't have to use supports, and lasts a long time I consider that vastly superior than the fact that I can shave 15 minutes off of the print time.
I agree, I would much rather have a good print that does what is supposed to versus a fast piece of wasted plastic. I run my Rat Rig much slower than many people, but have far fewer bad prints.
It would've been even better if he'd shown the OTHER PART! It's a two-part solution, we're looking at the tab only. I'll keep searching for a decent tutorial :P
I design built in supports all the time, especially for long overhangs with an angled surface underneath. Another great design is to add bridging surfaces for a part that houses hex bolts. Normally a floating circular hole not touching the build plate needs supports. But you can add two bridging surfaces that touch the edge of the circle on 4 sides and now it is printable without supports.
I watch your videos since a while. They are always informative or at least entertaining. But what I realy want to know is how do you control your print farm? I can't imagine that klipper is scalable in such dimensions. So what's the thing to get access to so many printers from the far? Kind regards.
This is the kind of stuff that keeps me up at night - designing complex functional models in my head, until I pass out and forget everything by morning. The topic of mechanical joints and clasps could be talked about/discussed/improved upon for an entire YT video series and I'd be glad to see the kind of knowledge that came out of it in the comments. Thx for the vid.
I've made this mistake a few times, for print speed I changed the direction, and snapped the part. I like built in supports , shows great design thought
maybe better solution would be a long bridge to the other side here. extend the lower part of the pin horizontal to the other side. this will be way more stable and only 1 layer thick that easy breaks away. prints way faster to. one bridging vs a 1 mm hick column.
Great video, I was looking for this. I am trying to make snap in joints for fixing two 3d printed parts. Normally I would have used screws and nuts. What material is best recommended? Is TPU good choice? Or is it flexible?
I'm surprised that the idea of putting the tab at a 45 degree angle isn't also here. Is there a special reason for that? I'd imagine that it'd combine the benefit of better integrity with the ease of being printable without supports.
@@slant3d Thinking more about, I guess that's to be expected after all. Unless at least one layer has a full connection from wall to tip, it's literally the same, just wider isolated layers.
Pls tell us how to design a mini functional Charge blade from Monster Hunter. (fulli functional able to transform from Sword and Shield mode to Axe mode) xD
excelent information and design tip!! but the quality of the example printed part is so bad :( Looks a 2006 print :( i love your videos but im secure that inclusive if i tried i cant do a piece uglier than the example piece. I know that is a speed model for an example but that examples are important too
In your previous video "The truth about 3D printing" you said one of the misconception about that technology is 3D printing is "crappy","not strong enough". Now you say tabs can break between the layers, which never happens with injection molding because Injection molded plastic is high density and isotropic, wile 3D printed parts are not. This is not an opinion, this is Physics. Please clarify : are 3D printing parts as strong as injection moulded parts at the same thickness, whatever the shape and orientation or not ? Besides the promotion of your business technology, your followers would appreciate clear and honest words. In some applications, 3D printing can challenge injection moulded parts, but not in every application. This fact is totally untold in your videos. A video explaining what 3D printing mass production can't produce will be appreciated, because you (probably falsely) give to your audience the feeling you are not aware about your business field of performance, which is not limitless, like any business, and about the limits of the FDM 3D printing technology. Your words were more realistic when you talked about the amount of parts printable per month, for example.
This is full of great advice. Sadly, most videos I see focus on printing speed and very rarely is the focus on print longevity or efficiency. I don't care how quickly I can print it off if i have to keep reprinting because they keep breaking. When it comes to print placement I spend more time orienting them for the best balanced between strength and minimal filament use. If a print take twice as long but uses 1/3 the plastic because I don't have to use supports, and lasts a long time I consider that vastly superior than the fact that I can shave 15 minutes off of the print time.
I agree, I would much rather have a good print that does what is supposed to versus a fast piece of wasted plastic. I run my Rat Rig much slower than many people, but have far fewer bad prints.
It would've been even better if he'd shown the OTHER PART! It's a two-part solution, we're looking at the tab only. I'll keep searching for a decent tutorial :P
Skill issue, simply print fast and stable at the same time.
I love these tip type videos. So so helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Suggestion: Talk abaout other forms of clip, tolerances, thinckess, a little math about it. It´s so interesting to newbie designers doing some stuff!
These design tips never get old. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and insights.
I design built in supports all the time, especially for long overhangs with an angled surface underneath. Another great design is to add bridging surfaces for a part that houses hex bolts. Normally a floating circular hole not touching the build plate needs supports. But you can add two bridging surfaces that touch the edge of the circle on 4 sides and now it is printable without supports.
You can just make the first layer have no hole at all. You'll have to push the bolt through it the first time, but that's easy.
You know, i was just about to print something using these tabs, and then this video appeared and made me redesign the tabs to be sideways! Cheers dude
Glad it was helpful
I watch your videos since a while. They are always informative or at least entertaining. But what I realy want to know is how do you control your print farm? I can't imagine that klipper is scalable in such dimensions. So what's the thing to get access to so many printers from the far? Kind regards.
loving the fusion360 tips
a cool video could be 10 of your favorite / least known about but most useful fusion tools / tricks
This is the kind of stuff that keeps me up at night - designing complex functional models in my head, until I pass out and forget everything by morning. The topic of mechanical joints and clasps could be talked about/discussed/improved upon for an entire YT video series and I'd be glad to see the kind of knowledge that came out of it in the comments. Thx for the vid.
Really nice! I used this method to make a macro pad with flexible buttons on my 3d printer.
I've made this mistake a few times, for print speed I changed the direction, and snapped the part. I like built in supports , shows great design thought
Can you talk about Compliant mechanism and flexure mechanism design? It'll be huge help for 3d prints as well
This video. The hinge video. The Grip Fins Video
maybe better solution would be a long bridge to the other side here.
extend the lower part of the pin horizontal to the other side. this will be way more stable and only 1 layer thick that easy breaks away.
prints way faster to.
one bridging vs a 1 mm hick column.
Less universal. But viable where the snaps are short enough
@@slant3dIn my experience single layer bridges are more universal.
How long can a bridge be?
When I saw the spru? Sprew? I was thinking it would sag in the middle.
Newbie here. 😂
Ribs and boss features are handy for opposite sides of these connections.
Short and to the point. Thanks!
You bet!
Great tip!!!
Glad you liked it
best snap and snapping cylinders?
eg for a handle extension… perhaps nylon to make is slippery for long life?
Nice info! Thanks
I love the part at 2:01 - laughing my a*s off
i love you
Great video, I was looking for this. I am trying to make snap in joints for fixing two 3d printed parts. Normally I would have used screws and nuts.
What material is best recommended? Is TPU good choice? Or is it flexible?
How small (in terms of max layers) lets say do you yhink such an element can get before becoming impractical
I'm surprised that the idea of putting the tab at a 45 degree angle isn't also here. Is there a special reason for that?
I'd imagine that it'd combine the benefit of better integrity with the ease of being printable without supports.
No difference between 45 and vertical
@@slant3d Thinking more about, I guess that's to be expected after all. Unless at least one layer has a full connection from wall to tip, it's literally the same, just wider isolated layers.
Possible with resin prints?
I appreciate the content but I’m really put off by how much your head moves
first world problems
🤦🤦🤦🤦
You're joking! People move when they talk, pretty normal mate.
😂
I agree. I was gonna comment the same on another video but then i didn't. Now i see someone else did. Great content tho.
Dang. Subbed.
Welcome
This is a good solution if you don't have an option to print it flat, which would be of course the best option.
Flat would not be the best option. It reduce automatability and complicates the first layer.
What slicer the slant 3-D use?
Whatever is best for the application
Pls tell us how to design a mini functional Charge blade from Monster Hunter. (fulli functional able to transform from Sword and Shield mode to Axe mode) xD
Этот Лебедев даже лучше того.
Isn't mass producing with 3D printing an oxymoron, it's prototyping tool, why not use injection?
excelent information and design tip!! but the quality of the example printed part is so bad :( Looks a 2006 print :( i love your videos but im secure that inclusive if i tried i cant do a piece uglier than the example piece. I know that is a speed model for an example but that examples are important too
In your previous video "The truth about 3D printing" you said one of the misconception about that technology is 3D printing is "crappy","not strong enough". Now you say tabs can break between the layers, which never happens with injection molding because Injection molded plastic is high density and isotropic, wile 3D printed parts are not. This is not an opinion, this is Physics. Please clarify : are 3D printing parts as strong as injection moulded parts at the same thickness, whatever the shape and orientation or not ? Besides the promotion of your business technology, your followers would appreciate clear and honest words. In some applications, 3D printing can challenge injection moulded parts, but not in every application. This fact is totally untold in your videos. A video explaining what 3D printing mass production can't produce will be appreciated, because you (probably falsely) give to your audience the feeling you are not aware about your business field of performance, which is not limitless, like any business, and about the limits of the FDM 3D printing technology. Your words were more realistic when you talked about the amount of parts printable per month, for example.