No grease between hub and wheel mounting points to keep from being melted together next time asking cause most videos suggest that and as much i gotta wrestle with the few ive done in past 5 years or so ill take any easy tip i can
Nice job. You could just use a flat screwdriver to open the callipers while the old brake pads are still installed, if you didn’t have the spreader kit. Just one less step.
I have an heavy telecom box truck 2003 Ford E-450 Super Duty V10. I like to know what is the best brand for rotors, hubs, disk, pad and calipers from and rear that do not rush and a lot of braking power and last long time please?
Yikes! I have done rotor and pad replacements on a bunch of our cars in the past, but this is way different. Thanks much for the video, but I am wondering if this job might be above my pay grade on our E350.
Joe, did you decide to try DIY with these instructions? Like you, I've done smaller vehicles, but for this I will need to purchase a few additional tools and I'm nervous that I may end up wishing I went to my mechanic instead.
@@ChinaChuck well, I decided to do it myself. My rotors turned out to be okay, so I did not have to replace the rotors or bearings. I did replace the calipers, pads and hoses. I do recommend that you have a nice long breaker bar, a long torque wrench, locking hose clamp and offset pliers if you are replacing the hoses. The clips for the hoses were actually the hardest part because they are very hard to access, especially on the driver's side. If the hoses are the variety with a nut you can disconnect the metal brake line (pain in the ass, but doable), and cap it with the cap from the bleeder valve so it does not all leak out. Disconnect the hose from the caliper, then cut it off near the body. An impact driver on the big nut will quickly twist the nut off along with the clip on the back side. If you have the round type connection near the body it is more of a pain in the ass. Those clips are in tight, so spray some lube in there, then turn the clip 90 degrees pointing toward the rear of the van. If you inspect the new hoses first you will see they have a flat side, and turning that clip 90 degrees makes yanking it out a lot easier. Another thing to know is you need the van's manufacture date when ordering the calipers because for used a couple different types. Good luck! By the way, Harbor Freight was my go-to place for most of the tools I needed.
Bro I changed my brakes with your video. Awesome
Very helpful! I was able to pull my 2007 Ford e350 rotor apart after watching this.
Well done, guy! You're a professional in your field!
Great job! Got it done with your help
what size bearing ring tool ?
No grease between hub and wheel mounting points to keep from being melted together next time asking cause most videos suggest that and as much i gotta wrestle with the few ive done in past 5 years or so ill take any easy tip i can
This was helpful, even though I have a 1983. Thank you
Never put grease on the very ends of the slider pins. That will cause uneven brake wear. Great video. Lol use tons of brake cleaner
Nice job.
You could just use a flat screwdriver to open the callipers while the old brake pads are still installed, if you didn’t have the spreader kit. Just one less step.
I have an heavy telecom box truck 2003 Ford E-450 Super Duty V10. I like to know what is the best brand for rotors, hubs, disk, pad and calipers from and rear that do not rush and a lot of braking power and last long time please?
Yikes! I have done rotor and pad replacements on a bunch of our cars in the past, but this is way different. Thanks much for the video, but I am wondering if this job might be above my pay grade on our E350.
Joe, did you decide to try DIY with these instructions? Like you, I've done smaller vehicles, but for this I will need to purchase a few additional tools and I'm nervous that I may end up wishing I went to my mechanic instead.
@@ChinaChuck well, I decided to do it myself. My rotors turned out to be okay, so I did not have to replace the rotors or bearings. I did replace the calipers, pads and hoses. I do recommend that you have a nice long breaker bar, a long torque wrench, locking hose clamp and offset pliers if you are replacing the hoses. The clips for the hoses were actually the hardest part because they are very hard to access, especially on the driver's side. If the hoses are the variety with a nut you can disconnect the metal brake line (pain in the ass, but doable), and cap it with the cap from the bleeder valve so it does not all leak out. Disconnect the hose from the caliper, then cut it off near the body. An impact driver on the big nut will quickly twist the nut off along with the clip on the back side. If you have the round type connection near the body it is more of a pain in the ass. Those clips are in tight, so spray some lube in there, then turn the clip 90 degrees pointing toward the rear of the van. If you inspect the new hoses first you will see they have a flat side, and turning that clip 90 degrees makes yanking it out a lot easier. Another thing to know is you need the van's manufacture date when ordering the calipers because for used a couple different types. Good luck! By the way, Harbor Freight was my go-to place for most of the tools I needed.
IS it safe to use ventilated holes on the surface of the disk for a E-450 Super duty front disk brakes?
Where did you source the hub/rotor assembly from?
Great video.
How to adjust the brake if doesn't work good
God job gay put the gay with the camera no god