I had a go at processing the footage to give a better persistence of vision effect, by layering up offset copies and using the 'lighten' blend mode. It kind of worked? ruclips.net/video/Sz0133VZd7E/видео.html
Everyone's saying that the flickering weirdness is caused by the framerate of the camera, but it's not. It's being caused by the shutter speed used to capture the image on each frame. If you film at 30fps, then you want a shutter speed of 1/30th of a second in order to replicate the persistence of vision effect. Any lower, and there will be segment of time in between frames that the camera doesn't record. If you're filming on a DSLR, you should be able to go into manual mode to change video settings in order to get this to work.
Yes, it was a shame. I tried different settings and changed the RPM but the flicker was always there. But you can visit the instructables link and see a couple more pictures of the globe. There you can see the complete static picture, the way you would see it with your eyes.
GreatScott! I think smartereveryday did a video using a similar display, he simulates the persistance of vision using software, i suggest you have a look +GreatScott!
The simplest way? Use the rod itself. Use a copper plated aluminum rod and cut it halfway in the middle, then connect the two pieces back together with insulation in the middle (A bit of plastic?) so you have two conductive rods, one coming from the top and one from the bottom. Use a small DC brush at the top of the rod to connect to the +5 volt rail and another small brush at the bottom of the rod to connect to the ground rail. Voila, power to the middle I actually made something like this but it was a disc that rotated with a string of LEDs on it and two copper tracks at the outer edge on which two carbon brushes rested to allow moving power to flow.
A couple suggestions for how to improve this build and for builds like it in the future. Replacing the angle braces with ones that have a triangular piece of metal connecting the 2 sides for more stable support. Consider buying a tap set so that you can tap the wholes in the steel instead of requiring nuts everywhere. Also since the vibration only showed up after adding the electronics, it is probably mostly a balance issue. You could probably try grabbing some lead shot and tape to play with until it's stable then glue the shot in place. Take more full advantage of your 3D printer: You could've made a spot for the self locking nuts to get captured in the plastic for an easier assembly/disassembly. Instead of just making a block for the circuitry and battery to attach to it would've been cooler it allowed them to be embedded inside and hidden away.
Hey scott, you could try to statically balance this build, by holding it sideways and looking which side the heavier one is. Then ading a little mass to the opposite side so long until both sides can stay horizontally
+GreatScott for the past 3 months, I have been working on a pov display that fits in a fidget spinner. Due to the small size, I had to go all out SMD on my PCB. I used APA 102-2020 LEDs and attiny85-soic8. Thank you for producing all these great videos.
My man put the ball bearing in the freezer because it wouldn't fit at room temperature. I f***ing applaud such an intuitive understanding of thermal expansion.
You threw off the balance with having a hall effect sensor on one side of the ring, and no counter weight on the other. Even though it weighs net to nothing, at higher RPM that difference could shake that thing apart. Same goes with the arduino and LiPO. What you do to one side, you have to add counter weight to the other, then that thing would spin like a dream. Love your creations! Keep up the great work!
A second piece of LED strip running down the other side of the ring will give you a solid image as opposed to the scanline style image. Second strip should be offset by half the LED spacing in relation to the first strip, and pattern signal should be 180 degrees out of phase with that of the first section of strip. A nice upgrade that's simply an additional piece of strip.
This is actually useful to me, because I need to build a pair of synchronised POV LED rotors for demonstration purposes in my uni. Good to see, that you chose basically the same components as I did :D Thanks for another great video! - a fellow german :)
You could have used slip rings to bring power to the rotating ring and eliminated the need for the battery power. Also could have used slip rings to drive the led's and put the magnet on the rotating ring, then all of the electronics could have been stationary. That would weigh less and be easier to balance.
You have to set the exposure manually for the video to make justice to this project: set it to 25 fps and 1/40 s exposure time. It should give a result pretty effective.
I built a similar project using only blue LEDs. I found it necessary to add screws and washers (by trial and error) to get the rotary parts in balance for smooth operation.
I will definitely try this project. I have some spare PIC mcu-s in the drawer, only thing to do is to overcome my insecurities when dealing with mechanical parts :)).
I know someone who created that, but they have put something like the brushed motors to power the LEDs without a battery and they also created a software to draw personalized things while is turning..
well, this is amazing! good job! I have a suggestion, making this device either on or off the grid by adding a contactless slip ring with a unique 12V supply (by switching a plug connected either to a battery or a power supply) that would be awesome! for those who don't know what it is, it's a simple 1:1 transformer, with a fixed primary coil and a rotating secondary coil, it was used mostly on VCR heads but still used on high rotation speed devices and other applications where you have to avoid electric and magnetic interferences and mechanical fatigue, such as industrial robot arms. there are slip rings even for data transfert, I installed recently an ethernet slip ring for sensors working on ethernet protocol. the old sensors were analogic working with a carbon brushed slip ring and it was a nightmare to maintain, lots of contact faults and burned sensors, just the fault diagnosis was a gruesome task.
To find a center of something easier, they make a Centering ruler. I got some from Amazon. They work by having 0 in the middle and the measurements goes out the same on both sides of 0. They have it in Metric and Standard.
What about a slip ring to transfer power/data so you don't have to have the battery/arduino inside the ring? It would remove most of the weight from the rotating bits to reduce vibrations, and would let you control the ring while its on.
Disconnect it from the motor and put the whole circle on its side to find the heavy side and glue a screw or something on the other one to ballance it out.....great project i like it
nicely done! The solid metal frame would help a lot to reduce vibrations, need to counterbalance those LED's tho that's the real trick. Lay it on it's side and keep adding weight to the hall effect sensor side until the LED side doesn't want to be at the bottom. And the trick with the frame rate is brightness. drop the brightness of your APA102's and the ambient lighting to let your camera's exposure assist with blurring that fast motion :) For extra points you could continue the LED's around the other side so that they are offset from the others to "fill in the gaps". Always love your vid's! keep on keepin on ;)
You need to balance the ring. Take the assembled rod and set it horizontally so that it can rotate freely. Adjust the weight of the light end until you can rotate the assembly and it halts at almost any position.
Next time you need to get a bearing in place you should press it in. It's very easy to damage bearings if you hammer on them. Other than that it was a great video, keep them coming.
Great project! I am definitely doing this! BTW, you should probably put at least one axial ball bearing, where the axis will rest at. Radial ball bearings wont survive for long with axial load.
you actually don't even need more support for the rotating circle! If you somehow manage to balance the structure out correctly or to a more suitable way, then this only support beam is more than enough you need.
Can't you just add some weight to balance the whole thing? It's probably the LED strip that weighs more than the hall effect switch, so adding a bit of weight on that side could solve the balance issue
the problems are mechanically you have to balance the globe first putting it on some horizontal support. than it would be better dont use the 90° metal plate but maybe something like a 45° triangle placed inside corners that would reduce alot the vibration
if you have the option on your camera decrease the shutter speed, if you're shooting at 30fps it's probably at 1/60th of a second you'll need something more like 1/45th or something
You could use lens filters which reduce the amount of incoming light, and you could take long expo pictures of it, and that would look stationary, but it would require a lot of experimentation.
It's just figuring out how to get a perfect balance, it'll stop the vibrations. If you've driven a car with an out of balance wheel, you see that the vibration will start at say 30kph, max at 35kph and be gone by 45kph. It'll be the same with this POV globe, you should be able to raise the RPM through the point of maximum vibration the where it runs vibration free.
The problem is actually because of the rolling shutter (most cameras have) record it with a camera having global shutter and it will be just fine! but those are tooooooooo expensive...
It's neither an FPS nor rolling shutter issue (FPS would make it worse and rolling isn't an issue as ideally the picture should be stable). What he needs is a longer exposure time to bridge the LED's "downtime" which causes the flickering.
I think this would nice if you could use some slip rings instead of mounting the stuff in the center of the hoop. It would make balancing it a whole lot easier.
you need to balance all the stuff in the middle or use contact copper plates on it base so the wires dont wrap around itself then you can have all the battery away from it
It would be a good idea to add a hc05 module with an android app to control the thing. Also to show us the results you could try to take a long exposure photo, most smartphones can do it nowadays.
You are awesome, I have enjoyed your videos the most. I commend you for after all this time you still take the time to explain everything as if someone is watching your video for the first time. Don't stop and I wish you all the best. Give me the link to your 3-D Delta printer on this video, I'm ready to buy one. Thanks, Dan Past.
Thanks for new project! 5m of rgb-strip coming for ambilight, ofc dont need all for that, but you know, for later usage, like this.. Thank You for good videos :)
I had a go at processing the footage to give a better persistence of vision effect, by layering up offset copies and using the 'lighten' blend mode. It kind of worked?
ruclips.net/video/Sz0133VZd7E/видео.html
Rob Miles watches at least one of the channels that I watch! My life choices feel validated!
Hi Robert, what kind of software did you use? Thanks :-)
I used Kdenlive
i suppose it would be way better if he had used 2 strips of leds
Yep
Everyone's saying that the flickering weirdness is caused by the framerate of the camera, but it's not. It's being caused by the shutter speed used to capture the image on each frame. If you film at 30fps, then you want a shutter speed of 1/30th of a second in order to replicate the persistence of vision effect. Any lower, and there will be segment of time in between frames that the camera doesn't record. If you're filming on a DSLR, you should be able to go into manual mode to change video settings in order to get this to work.
Is there a difference between framerate and shutter speed ? Theyr basically the same!!!
Love the structured drawings, makes it easy to follow. Also thumbs up for the LED project!
Thank you :-) Looking forward to your secret door project part 2.
Only thing bad is the camera frame rate. Now we cant see how amazingly it actually looks
Yes, it was a shame. I tried different settings and changed the RPM but the flicker was always there. But you can visit the instructables link and see a couple more pictures of the globe. There you can see the complete static picture, the way you would see it with your eyes.
GreatScott! I think smartereveryday did a video using a similar display, he simulates the persistance of vision using software, i suggest you have a look +GreatScott!
GreatScott! Tried fiddling with the shutter speed?
krtek 60fps cameras are expensiver
krtek 60 FPS camera does not fix the problem. In fact it makes it worse
Whoa! Those are some COMPLETE instructions (as of 5:06). Well done! ANYbody should be able to follow this.
Might want to balance the circle with some counterweights. Also, would like to see someone that can devise a means to power it without a battery.
Either wireless charging or brushes at the bottom of the circle to transmit the power.
Newjorciks well he's already shown how to use wireless charging
Adria Garceran just use brushes
I thought of this as well. Depending on the power consumption of the LEDs, one may actually be able to use a premade 5V/1A coil pair.
The simplest way? Use the rod itself. Use a copper plated aluminum rod and cut it halfway in the middle, then connect the two pieces back together with insulation in the middle (A bit of plastic?) so you have two conductive rods, one coming from the top and one from the bottom. Use a small DC brush at the top of the rod to connect to the +5 volt rail and another small brush at the bottom of the rod to connect to the ground rail. Voila, power to the middle
I actually made something like this but it was a disc that rotated with a string of LEDs on it and two copper tracks at the outer edge on which two carbon brushes rested to allow moving power to flow.
Why would anyone ever dislike any of your videos? Your projects are great, and it seems like you have a ton of fun doing them.
A couple suggestions for how to improve this build and for builds like it in the future.
Replacing the angle braces with ones that have a triangular piece of metal connecting the 2 sides for more stable support.
Consider buying a tap set so that you can tap the wholes in the steel instead of requiring nuts everywhere.
Also since the vibration only showed up after adding the electronics, it is probably mostly a balance issue. You could probably try grabbing some lead shot and tape to play with until it's stable then glue the shot in place.
Take more full advantage of your 3D printer:
You could've made a spot for the self locking nuts to get captured in the plastic for an easier assembly/disassembly.
Instead of just making a block for the circuitry and battery to attach to it would've been cooler it allowed them to be embedded inside and hidden away.
I couldn't even begin to find the parts to start this epic build. But your videos are always inspiring.
Hey scott, you could try to statically balance this build, by holding it sideways and looking which side the heavier one is. Then ading a little mass to the opposite side so long until both sides can stay horizontally
+GreatScott for the past 3 months, I have been working on a pov display that fits in a fidget spinner. Due to the small size, I had to go all out SMD on my PCB. I used APA 102-2020 LEDs and attiny85-soic8. Thank you for producing all these great videos.
Sounds interesting. Thanks for the feedback :-)
Visit Tinkernut; he did that exact project not too long ago.
very nice, you did it yourself and not bought one of the usual kits on chinese markets, good!
nothing like a fresh GreatScott video in a rainy sunday morning
My man put the ball bearing in the freezer because it wouldn't fit at room temperature. I f***ing applaud such an intuitive understanding of thermal expansion.
I'm so glad I'm not the only one who keeps their ball bearings in their freezer! (7:14)
Sen bu proje için çok emek harcamışsın.
Ellerine sağlık, çok güzel olmuş video.
Videoların hakkını veren nadir kişilerdensin.
Teşekkürler GS!
juk pan muf tuk harmasan,
singh mai cok fuk
han fun juk video,
kvak puk framerate !
You threw off the balance with having a hall effect sensor on one side of the ring, and no counter weight on the other. Even though it weighs net to nothing, at higher RPM that difference could shake that thing apart. Same goes with the arduino and LiPO. What you do to one side, you have to add counter weight to the other, then that thing would spin like a dream. Love your creations! Keep up the great work!
"Anything above 5 Volts would have lead to certain destruction." *Bumps Voltage to 7 volts*
A second piece of LED strip running down the other side of the ring will give you a solid image as opposed to the scanline style image. Second strip should be offset by half the LED spacing in relation to the first strip, and pattern signal should be 180 degrees out of phase with that of the first section of strip. A nice upgrade that's simply an additional piece of strip.
Very good idea.
This is actually useful to me, because I need to build a pair of synchronised POV LED rotors for demonstration purposes in my uni. Good to see, that you chose basically the same components as I did :D Thanks for another great video!
- a fellow german :)
You could have used slip rings to bring power to the rotating ring and eliminated the need for the battery power. Also could have used slip rings to drive the led's and put the magnet on the rotating ring, then all of the electronics could have been stationary. That would weigh less and be easier to balance.
Not gonna lie, thats pretty freaking cool
You have to set the exposure manually for the video to make justice to this project: set it to 25 fps and 1/40 s exposure time. It should give a result pretty effective.
Building these are always a ton of fun
Great Scott I was amaze with your POV LED Globe and pretty nice, and I love your home made electronic projects.
Thank you :-)
you can make a step-up transformer power supply in the future videos?
I built a similar project using only blue LEDs. I found it necessary to add screws and washers (by trial and error) to get the rotary parts in balance for smooth operation.
Glad to see you finally buy a step drill
Woha why 3D printing a box when you glue everything with duct tape. But the project is neat!
Watching this makes me glad i have a welder, though i would have used wood for the structure.
Amazing ! , even after a lot of videos, you still found some Amazing ideas
Thank you. I try my best.
GreatScott! Sorry for my English, I'm french
Frost nah it's ok.. :D
That's one hell of a base! Awesome idea as always. Looking forward to the next step on your quad copter project.
Well, we will see when I will complete that project ;-)
It's 4 AM, and I am bored, and Great Scott uploaded,
HELL YEAH
Hyped for the homemade lipo Board.
I will definitely try this project. I have some spare PIC mcu-s in the drawer, only thing to do is to overcome my insecurities when dealing with mechanical parts :)).
i love your projects i learn from them a lot
I know someone who created that, but they have put something like the brushed motors to power the LEDs without a battery and they also created a software to draw personalized things while is turning..
well, this is amazing! good job! I have a suggestion, making this device either on or off the grid by adding a contactless slip ring with a unique 12V supply (by switching a plug connected either to a battery or a power supply)
that would be awesome!
for those who don't know what it is, it's a simple 1:1 transformer, with a fixed primary coil and a rotating secondary coil, it was used mostly on VCR heads but still used on high rotation speed devices and other applications where you have to avoid electric and magnetic interferences and mechanical fatigue, such as industrial robot arms. there are slip rings even for data transfert, I installed recently an ethernet slip ring for sensors working on ethernet protocol. the old sensors were analogic working with a carbon brushed slip ring and it was a nightmare to maintain, lots of contact faults and burned sensors, just the fault diagnosis was a gruesome task.
Das habe ich schon gesehen
Complimenti per il progetto soprattutto per sincronizzazione
Great idea putting the bearing in the freezer to shrink it down a bit.
You can also heat up the metal. But I was too lazy for that.
I was actually thinking that if you still had trouble getting the bearing in, you could do both.
I love how you use minute light humor throughout the video!
"It's german humour, it's no laughing matter."
It's instable because the mass is distributed unevenly. Add some mass to the side where the hall sensor is located.
To find a center of something easier, they make a Centering ruler. I got some from Amazon. They work by having 0 in the middle and the measurements goes out the same on both sides of 0. They have it in Metric and Standard.
AMAZING
although it has been done before, this seems superior to those others
What about a slip ring to transfer power/data so you don't have to have the battery/arduino inside the ring? It would remove most of the weight from the rotating bits to reduce vibrations, and would let you control the ring while its on.
Disconnect it from the motor and put the whole circle on its side to find the heavy side and glue a screw or something on the other one to ballance it out.....great project i like it
nicely done!
The solid metal frame would help a lot to reduce vibrations, need to counterbalance those LED's tho that's the real trick. Lay it on it's side and keep adding weight to the hall effect sensor side until the LED side doesn't want to be at the bottom.
And the trick with the frame rate is brightness. drop the brightness of your APA102's and the ambient lighting to let your camera's exposure assist with blurring that fast motion :)
For extra points you could continue the LED's around the other side so that they are offset from the others to "fill in the gaps".
Always love your vid's! keep on keepin on ;)
You are, by far my favorite RUclipsr, keep up the good work :)
Thanks mate :-) I will try my best
You need to balance the ring. Take the assembled rod and set it horizontally so that it can rotate freely. Adjust the weight of the light end until you can rotate the assembly and it halts at almost any position.
It would be awesome to see a world map on this globe!
yay finally i got a video early i started a couple months ago and its so intresting thank you for the entertainment
Next time you need to get a bearing in place you should press it in. It's very easy to damage bearings if you hammer on them. Other than that it was a great video, keep them coming.
Great project! I am definitely doing this! BTW, you should probably put at least one axial ball bearing, where the axis will rest at. Radial ball bearings wont survive for long with axial load.
you actually don't even need more support for the rotating circle! If you somehow manage to balance the structure out correctly or to a more suitable way, then this only support beam is more than enough you need.
I just started the video and already clicked like
Awesome ! Next step : a KSP navball
Holy hell a upload
Every Sunday :-)
GreatScott! Gotta love it
GreatScott! You are German right? So your bilingual
...Arnold Schwarzenegger is *Austrian*, but still bilingual.
Kleiner Tipp fürs Gewindestangensägen: dreh zwei Muttern (eine zum kontern) drauf als Anschlag.
Can't you just add some weight to balance the whole thing? It's probably the LED strip that weighs more than the hall effect switch, so adding a bit of weight on that side could solve the balance issue
Just a little bit of that aluminium rod hot glued to the other side of that hall sensor should do de trick, or even hot glue itself.
the problems are mechanically
you have to balance the globe first putting it on some horizontal support. than it would be better dont use the 90° metal plate but maybe something like a 45° triangle placed inside corners that would reduce alot the vibration
if you have the option on your camera decrease the shutter speed, if you're shooting at 30fps it's probably at 1/60th of a second you'll need something more like 1/45th or something
You could use lens filters which reduce the amount of incoming light, and you could take long expo pictures of it, and that would look stationary, but it would require a lot of experimentation.
There are pictures on Instructables. Link is in the description.
Always love ur videos
Thank you :-)
You could try taking a long exposure photo to get rid of camera artifacts.
Will of cause only work with static images, not animations
WOAH!!!! THAT'S BADASS
this is probably cooler in real life. either way it's pretty awesome
It's just figuring out how to get a perfect balance, it'll stop the vibrations.
If you've driven a car with an out of balance wheel, you see that the vibration will start at say 30kph, max at 35kph and be gone by 45kph. It'll be the same with this POV globe, you should be able to raise the RPM through the point of maximum vibration the where it runs vibration free.
Great project, never thought how simple it is to build, but please invest next time into a vise for metal cutting.
You inspire me to do clean yet amazing projects. Thanks and cheers!!!!!!!!
+GreatScott! Could you split the aluminium rod and run the power through the frame? Then use the smallest AVR possible as the controller?
Fantastic work, man! But I think a rc boat kind of coupling would improve the stability a lot!
Awesome project! If you experience flickering on camera maybe try to record with a higher frame rate such as 60 FPS.
With a POV effect, wouldn't a LOWER frame rate work better?
The problem is actually because of the rolling shutter (most cameras have) record it with a camera having global shutter and it will be just fine! but those are tooooooooo expensive...
It's neither an FPS nor rolling shutter issue (FPS would make it worse and rolling isn't an issue as ideally the picture should be stable). What he needs is a longer exposure time to bridge the LED's "downtime" which causes the flickering.
In 2018, this guy will have 1 million subscribers.
take tech still 705K, 2018 started, hope in few months
Lies!
Update as of December 31 at 18:30 UTC... he has 989,665
You were so fucking close man lol
Iy's amazing how POV works.
I think this would nice if you could use some slip rings instead of mounting the stuff in the center of the hoop. It would make balancing it a whole lot easier.
Great looking 3d prints!
cant wait for the upcoming vid
glad there is less soldering than the 8x8 led cube kit I made
It is necessary that you rebalance the sphere if you want to prevent a maximum of vibration.
You should turn up the exposure time per frame and reduce ISO on your camera to get less flickering.
you need to balance all the stuff in the middle or use contact copper plates on it base so the wires dont wrap around itself then you can have all the battery away from it
Get a countersink bit. I can garantee you won't regret it. Especially if its something like a Holex bit.
11:34 It does this with CRT TVs too.
Hi Scott
We would love to see your take on the the swinging sticks desk toy which is kept in Pepper Pot’s office in one of the Iron Man movie.
Nice Video. Very cool idea😎. Please more oft such LEDs projects.
It would be a good idea to add a hc05 module with an android app to control the thing. Also to show us the results you could try to take a long exposure photo, most smartphones can do it nowadays.
You can visit instructables. There are two more pictures of the globe in which you can see its complete displayed image.
Nice photos. Do you think it would be possible to add an amazon homepage link for UK amazon?
GreatScott, I would add gussets at 90 degress corners to stiffen up your frame. Btw, great design and function I plan to copy your work. Many Thanks
Great as always.
Great project. I love your channel
You are awesome, I have enjoyed your videos the most. I commend you for after all this time you still take the time to explain everything as if someone is watching your video for the first time. Don't stop and I wish you all the best. Give me the link to your 3-D Delta printer on this video, I'm ready to buy one. Thanks, Dan Past.
I used the TEVO little monster delta 3d printer. There is a review on my channel.
Would not it be more stable if you use a brush system (like motors) to transfer data to the LEDs or power to the center?
Soooo Nice project 👍
I love this stuff bro
Very great idea!
Would you please make a Video about Watt, Volt and Amp, How to calculate them and explain them?
8:37 No video without hot glue
IKR!
When do you want to finish the diy quadcopter?
Man könnte ja die 5V auch verhältnismäßig einfach über zwei Ender der Stange anlegen oder? Also in der Mitte natürlich durchsägen :D
You have a kickass electronic lab and a 3d printer but no vise or transfer punches?
Very cool, love your videos, thanks a million!
Thanks for new project! 5m of rgb-strip coming for ambilight, ofc dont need all for that, but you know, for later usage, like this.. Thank You for good videos :)