Great instructional video, I had never changed a water pump and with this video and a few other pointers I was able to get it done in about 2-1/2 hours, luckily my motor has only been in fresh water or I am sure it could have been worse.
Great video. Just a few questions. You did not apply grease to the inside of the metal cup. Also no grease on the upper drive shaft splines and mention to avoid greasing the top of the these splines and shift shaft splines to avoid locking. Should Locktite 572 be used on the bolts instead of grease?? You also did not mention torque for any of the bolts. This is by far the best video I have seen showing proper steps. Do you suggest cleaning the bolts and female threads before install?? Thanks.
Thank you for your feedback! We primarily work on boat/engines that are used in saltwater. We do apply Grease to the driveshaft as mentioned in the video. There is no need to grease the splines on the driveshaft because the driveshaft runs through the oil pump which is sealed keeping salt water and moisture out. I think greasing the water pump cup is excessive and not needed. Due to the saltwater I would only use grease or anti seize on hardware removed/installed during routine service. Hope this helps and thanks for watching our video.
I believe the 3.3L 250, 225 and 200 use the plastic collar, metal collar and 3 metal rings on top of the impeller. Make sure the wavy metal ring is in between the two flat metal rings. You’re also supposed to put upward pressure on the driveshaft before tapping the metal collar on the plastic collar to set the pinion gear in the lower unit. I hope this helps.
Sounds like you missed the shift shaft connection. You’ll need to drop the lower unit just enough to visually see the shift shaft on the lower unit slide into the shift shaft in the midsection. Make sure the lower unit and control box are in neutral.
with todays materials vs years ago... does running a motor with no water for lets say 30 sec affect the impeller at all? seems to be a simple rubber mechanical part.
Great detailed Video! Question: When I pried my housing off, the Cup was tightly stuck inside the Housing and I had to lube and pound it out. Once removed, the housing appeared brownish and had a grey glue like residue on the cup and housing. Is this normal? Is the housing still re-useable after cleaning it up? Thanks
@@ammarineservices5503 Thanks for your help ... But have a Bigger problem now! I installed the new Yamaha re-build kit per your exact steps. Started the engine with hose and muffs on. No water squirting out of the Telltale! Let the motor run for 5 min ... and just a small sporatic trickle started to squirt. It has always been a strong stream. SO... assuming I installed the impeller fins backward I tore down the lower unit again. Impeller was correct! All gaskets looked correct. Re-assembled again and started engine... SAME THING... No water flowing out the Telltale. What could be the problem??
@@ammarineservices5503 I tried sealing up all the other open holes in the lower unit with another set of ear muffs and kept the water supply ear muff on the lower unit water inlet. I then squeezed the water supply earmuffs tighter so less water escaped. The Telltale water flow did increase a little... Not a strong stream, but an improvement. Could it be this Yamaha 250hp VMAX SHO requires more water flow than a set of ear muffs and a water hose can supply??
We have partnered up with Partsvu an online parts warehouse. Here’s a link to the correct water pump kit. www.partsvu.com/yamaha-f225-f250-f300-4-2l-v6-vf250-outboard-water-pump-repair-kit-6ce-w0078-01-00.html A&MMARINESAVE10 - $10 off orders $100 or more A&MMARINESAVE20 - $20 off orders $200 or more
We typically change them as part of an annual service. This customer however is a guide and runs his motor 400 hours a year. For him we replace driveshaft seals every other service. He does 4 services a year. After changing the driveshaft seals we pressure and vacuum test the gear case. If it’s good we don’t don’t change shift-shaft or prop-shaft seals.
@@ammarineservices5503 heard its good stuff. Do you use it on prop splines? I'm running low on evinrude triple guard grease and I'm looking for a solid replacement!
Great instructional video. Thank you!
Awesome video man! Thanks. Saved me some $!
Awesome vid
Big help to me . thanks !
That’s great!!
Great instructional video, I had never changed a water pump and with this video and a few other pointers I was able to get it done in about 2-1/2 hours, luckily my motor has only been in fresh water or I am sure it could have been worse.
Great Video! I have a 2006 HPDI 250, is the process and parts used similar that I follow to be able to do my impeller service? Thanks
Which direction did you turn the shaft when pushing the housing on? Clockwise?
Yes.
I was just about to ask the same question... thank you for asking this and thank you A&M for the answer! Excellent video.
Need help a have a Yamaha v6 200 can I use a Yamaha 250 lower unit on my 200?
Great video. Just a few questions. You did not apply grease to the inside of the metal cup. Also no grease on the upper drive shaft splines and mention to avoid greasing the top of the these splines and shift shaft splines to avoid locking. Should Locktite 572 be used on the bolts instead of grease?? You also did not mention torque for any of the bolts. This is by far the best video I have seen showing proper steps. Do you suggest cleaning the bolts and female threads before install?? Thanks.
Thank you for your feedback! We primarily work on boat/engines that are used in saltwater. We do apply Grease to the driveshaft as mentioned in the video. There is no need to grease the splines on the driveshaft because the driveshaft runs through the oil pump which is sealed keeping salt water and moisture out. I think greasing the water pump cup is excessive and not needed. Due to the saltwater I would only use grease or anti seize on hardware removed/installed during routine service. Hope this helps and thanks for watching our video.
I put the bottom driveshaft seal in upside down. Top one is correct. Should I drop the LU and replace it?
I’m not sure what will happen. I’d rather be safe and fix it properly.
I noticed you didn’t have to remove the 3 washers, nylon split ring and the stainless ring cap, are they used on older models?
I believe the 3.3L 250, 225 and 200 use the plastic collar, metal collar and 3 metal rings on top of the impeller. Make sure the wavy metal ring is in between the two flat metal rings. You’re also supposed to put upward pressure on the driveshaft before tapping the metal collar on the plastic collar to set the pinion gear in the lower unit. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the quick reply
What do you torque the 4 housing bolts to? Is there a grommet that seals the housing nipple to the pickup tube in the mid section?
would love that answer as well
Great video! What year is this f250? I have a 2013 and I’m about to do this as part of my 300hr service. Thanks
2019 F250 4.2L.
Great info cameraman far away though.
I followed these steps but I think my shift shaft is not right cause I don’t have a forward or reverse now.
Sounds like you missed the shift shaft connection. You’ll need to drop the lower unit just enough to visually see the shift shaft on the lower unit slide into the shift shaft in the midsection. Make sure the lower unit and control box are in neutral.
with todays materials vs years ago... does running a motor with no water for lets say 30 sec affect the impeller at all? seems to be a simple rubber mechanical part.
We would recommend not running the impeller dry for any reason. Materials haven’t changed much over the years.
Great detailed Video! Question: When I pried my housing off, the Cup was tightly stuck inside the Housing and I had to lube and pound it out. Once removed, the housing appeared brownish and had a grey glue like residue on the cup and housing. Is this normal? Is the housing still re-useable after cleaning it up? Thanks
The glue is normal from the factory. You can clean it off and reuse the housing. There is no need to glue the new cup in the house.
@@ammarineservices5503 Thanks for your help ... But have a Bigger problem now! I installed the new Yamaha re-build kit per your exact steps. Started the engine with hose and muffs on. No water squirting out of the Telltale! Let the motor run for 5 min ... and just a small sporatic trickle started to squirt. It has always been a strong stream. SO... assuming I installed the impeller fins backward I tore down the lower unit again. Impeller was correct! All gaskets looked correct. Re-assembled again and started engine... SAME THING... No water flowing out the Telltale. What could be the problem??
@@colemant6845 are you running off ear muffs, engine flush or in the water?
@@ammarineservices5503 Ear Muffs .... In my driveway with water hose to ear muffs. and the Yamaha is a 2017 250 VMAX SHO
@@ammarineservices5503 I tried sealing up all the other open holes in the lower unit with another set of ear muffs and kept the water supply ear muff on the lower unit water inlet. I then squeezed the water supply earmuffs tighter so less water escaped. The Telltale water flow did increase a little... Not a strong stream, but an improvement. Could it be this Yamaha 250hp VMAX SHO requires more water flow than a set of ear muffs and a water hose can supply??
Is this a 250 sho? If not, would it be the same process?
It’s not a SHO but same water pump.
@@ammarineservices5503 thanks, great video!
Do you have a link for this kit?
We have partnered up with Partsvu an online parts warehouse. Here’s a link to the correct water pump kit. www.partsvu.com/yamaha-f225-f250-f300-4-2l-v6-vf250-outboard-water-pump-repair-kit-6ce-w0078-01-00.html
A&MMARINESAVE10 - $10 off orders $100 or more
A&MMARINESAVE20 - $20 off orders $200 or more
Do you put the motor in gear before removing the lower unit…?
No sir. That’s only with Mercruiser Alpha drives.
Why not replace drive shaft seals and shift shaft seal since you are there anyways ?
We typically change them as part of an annual service. This customer however is a guide and runs his motor 400 hours a year. For him we replace driveshaft seals every other service. He does 4 services a year. After changing the driveshaft seals we pressure and vacuum test the gear case. If it’s good we don’t don’t change shift-shaft or prop-shaft seals.
Great video. Is that Amsoil marine grease youre using?
It is!
@@ammarineservices5503 heard its good stuff. Do you use it on prop splines? I'm running low on evinrude triple guard grease and I'm looking for a solid replacement!
@@christopherwilliams4647 we use it on everything.
Halo salam kenal🙏🙏🙏
apply grease to the top of the drive shaft!!!!!!!
So you don’t put the collar back on the shaft I notice there wasn’t one
This particular motor doesn’t have a drive shaft collar. Is that what you’re referring to?
So we don’t have to mess with the gears at all?
You shouldn’t unless you mess with the shift shaft. Should go right back in when you’re finished with the water pump.
@@ammarineservices5503 thanks… very well done video.
@@Shawnny02 Thank you!!
Did someone say Greece🤣