I don’t mean this in a lame way as I can barely climb v10 myself but this does not at all look like a v10. Is it considered soft for the grade by locals? Edit: also I realize I can’t tell anything about rock type etc.. and could be totally wrong. I’m genuinely curious as it just looks far easier then v10 in this video
No harm done dw, It doesn't get done too often but I'd say its low end for 10 but likely not 9. The holds are a good amount worse than you may assume as its a pretty technical / balance oriented climb, therefore when done correctly it flows and look mad easy.
I've tried to pull onto the start of this. the top of my right knee is about 8" above the undercling and it feels near impossible to hold the start position. you can see austin's knee is about in line with (or just above) his hand making it very different and pretty morpho. usually it's the opposite, but the small box definitely helps here. by contrast, koma's roof is multiple grades harder than v10 with the "wrong" dimensions. I've done the "stand" that starts one move in, and it's hard for sure, but maybe not as stiff as some other central park classics.
I don’t mean this in a lame way as I can barely climb v10 myself but this does not at all look like a v10. Is it considered soft for the grade by locals?
Edit: also I realize I can’t tell anything about rock type etc.. and could be totally wrong. I’m genuinely curious as it just looks far easier then v10 in this video
No harm done dw, It doesn't get done too often but I'd say its low end for 10 but likely not 9. The holds are a good amount worse than you may assume as its a pretty technical / balance oriented climb, therefore when done correctly it flows and look mad easy.
@@austinhoyt7934 I thought all climbs were like that
@@samblumenshineable not all climbs are like that
I've tried to pull onto the start of this. the top of my right knee is about 8" above the undercling and it feels near impossible to hold the start position. you can see austin's knee is about in line with (or just above) his hand making it very different and pretty morpho. usually it's the opposite, but the small box definitely helps here. by contrast, koma's roof is multiple grades harder than v10 with the "wrong" dimensions.
I've done the "stand" that starts one move in, and it's hard for sure, but maybe not as stiff as some other central park classics.