There's so many "How to do ..." on youtube but yours are the best. Very clear, straight to the point, torques and parts numbers noted. I like to work on cars but I don't always know if I'm able to do certain jobs, your videos give me the confidence to do it. Thanks a lot.
Go, Canada! Thanks very much for the video, you've saved me a fortune, and even at my age (70), I feel it's a job I can do myself. Diolch yn fawr from Den, Wales - P.S. Good luck to Canada in the World Cup in Japan! P.P.S. I have family up in Parry Sound, and over in Alberta!
Great video thanks, had a clunk noise coming from front going over speed bumps. Found the front left stabilizer bar was just flat out broken. Aftermarket links are available for around $7 on rockauto.
+Earl K Have the parts in the garage. 2 new struts and bearing caps. My car improved big time when I put new stabilizer linkages in. My wife said the card felt tight when going over bumps and it was less noticeable in the car in the passenger seat. The clunk is now gone. The shocks are fine but I'm replacing them because I have way too much caster in my alignment charts. This will get my vehicle back in spec. I asked Hyundai about this and they said camber and caster are set and cannot be adjusted so The parts over time have bent or sagged. I hear a bit of op noise in the top of the strut meaning the bearing might be going bad but its a very minor sound. Usually with struts you should replace the bearings at the top every time you replace the structs as these things can wear and make a pop noise going over bumps. I have some oem ball joints and control arm bushings in the garage with a set of brake drum springs, new gas cap and rad cap and thermostat and thermostat gasket. These are just in case I have a leaking gas cap (which is know to happen) or somethings with the coolant system. For me this is ok as I plan to baby this car for many more years. 2009 and now its 2016 and it runs like a dream! Im sure things will be breaking down soon but thats ok. Im more than able to keep my car tuned and running it top shape. Thanks for the comment on the video. New camcorder and mic and new lighting kit to film with. Still trying to get use to how to set manual exposure in camera and adjustment of the lav mic. Can't believe I hit a million views. This is great....... But could not have done it without you guys. Thankyou for all your support and wonderful comments.
+gereral1 The brake job was amazing! Strong tight pedal and just tap it now and the car stops in a dime. Duralast great parts for OE. Brake flush was perfect with that tool. God I love that homemade tool. Sucks oil out of the 14.5 lawn tractor for oil changes, tranny fluid out of the dip stick hole if I over fill, brake fluid out the the master cylinder and puts enough pressure at the brake bleeder screws to suck the fluid out and air. Out of all the tools I've used this one is at the top and so is that rad funnel to bleed air out (yellow onethat video). I will be releasing a fuel testing video for all Hyundai and Kia, Mitsubishi vehicles soon. I will show users how to test fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The reason no one has a video on this is because the fuel rails do not have a access port to hook a fuel pressure gauge to.I will show you guys the correct way (sure this video will hit a million as there is nothing online on this) To many times over at Hyundai forums people have no start engine cuts off bad idle issues. I tell them to get the fuel pressure checked but this is hard to do. So many skip this but its important for certain diagnoses steps. Fuel, spark, Air. Anyway i'm sure many will find the information in this video of interest.
Update: My 2011 Accent GS is done!! I put penetrating oil on the upper and lower nut of the stabilizer link every other day for a week. The upper nut broke loose easy with an open end wrench but the lower was a bit harder probably for 2 reasons; The bottom nut gets much more dirt, salt, rust and it will bounce/spring as it isn't a rigid mount like the upper is. A socket on a breaker bar and a few whacks of a big hammer did the trick. I noticed in the video the link just came right out under no tension at all, however mine was, so I pried the sway bar up. I had a jack under the normal body position are you suppose to also use another jack under the swing arm for support? In any case prying the sway bar upwards worked and the job literally took me 12 minutes (lifetime Autozone part cost $25.99). I can't believe in the past I actually paid Monro muffler $125.00 for a link job and they talked me into an alignment for another $100.00!!! A total of $243.00- OUCH! The kicker is they stripped the upper nut on the link, I realized it when the car was still making the "clunk" sound. Brought it back and they replaced the link, great! I decided to do my brakes myself a week later... the kid had also stripped all 4 wheel studs on the tire he had to remove/replace for the link! I had to break all 4 studs and replace them myself!! I wasn't going back to that place ever! Again I thank you, for saving me time, aggravation and money!
How many Km's did you have on the car when you replaced this? Moog makes some good links with grease fittings, they may last longer than the OME ones if you grease them up every oil change. The OME ones use plastic inside, and wear quickly.
Thanks, my car is a 2007 Accent and it's just getting to that millage now. haha I have the same popping sound coming from the left side, I pried the link with a crowbar and it is a bit loose.
You can torque stabilizer past 32. I suggest calling hyundai service and ask them but they will tell you exactly what I stated as these numbers come from payed subscription to the factory tech manual for this vehicle. Call them if your concerned for your safety.
I'm interesting in you videos regarding accent 2009 , will U please tell me how can i locate purge valve and canister and if you have video on that .ragards
Abouzidane Salaheddine if vibration in steering wheel look front brakes. Guide pins in caliper brackets sticking or rotors warped. If vibration in seat check shoes and rear brake drums rear may be suspect.
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There's so many "How to do ..." on youtube but yours are the best. Very clear, straight to the point, torques and parts numbers noted. I like to work on cars but I don't always know if I'm able to do certain jobs, your videos give me the confidence to do it. Thanks a lot.
Mr C nice comment....thks
Go, Canada! Thanks very much for the video, you've saved me a fortune, and even at my age (70), I feel it's a job I can do myself. Diolch yn fawr from Den, Wales - P.S. Good luck to Canada in the World Cup in Japan! P.P.S. I have family up in Parry Sound, and over in Alberta!
Great video thanks, had a clunk noise coming from front going over speed bumps. Found the front left stabilizer bar was just flat out broken. Aftermarket links are available for around $7 on rockauto.
Another great video. When the struts do arrive and the weather is more cooperative, a video on changing struts would be appreciated.
+Earl K Have the parts in the garage. 2 new struts and bearing caps. My car improved big time when I put new stabilizer linkages in. My wife said the card felt tight when going over bumps and it was less noticeable in the car in the passenger seat. The clunk is now gone. The shocks are fine but I'm replacing them because I have way too much caster in my alignment charts. This will get my vehicle back in spec. I asked Hyundai about this and they said camber and caster are set and cannot be adjusted so The parts over time have bent or sagged. I hear a bit of op noise in the top of the strut meaning the bearing might be going bad but its a very minor sound. Usually with struts you should replace the bearings at the top every time you replace the structs as these things can wear and make a pop noise going over bumps. I have some oem ball joints and control arm bushings in the garage with a set of brake drum springs, new gas cap and rad cap and thermostat and thermostat gasket. These are just in case I have a leaking gas cap (which is know to happen) or somethings with the coolant system. For me this is ok as I plan to baby this car for many more years. 2009 and now its 2016 and it runs like a dream! Im sure things will be breaking down soon but thats ok. Im more than able to keep my car tuned and running it top shape.
Thanks for the comment on the video. New camcorder and mic and new lighting kit to film with. Still trying to get use to how to set manual exposure in camera and adjustment of the lav mic. Can't believe I hit a million views. This is great....... But could not have done it without you guys. Thankyou for all your support and wonderful comments.
+gereral1 The brake job was amazing! Strong tight pedal and just tap it now and the car stops in a dime. Duralast great parts for OE. Brake flush was perfect with that tool. God I love that homemade tool. Sucks oil out of the 14.5 lawn tractor for oil changes, tranny fluid out of the dip stick hole if I over fill, brake fluid out the the master cylinder and puts enough pressure at the brake bleeder screws to suck the fluid out and air. Out of all the tools I've used this one is at the top and so is that rad funnel to bleed air out (yellow onethat video).
I will be releasing a fuel testing video for all Hyundai and Kia, Mitsubishi vehicles soon. I will show users how to test fuel pressure at the fuel rail. The reason no one has a video on this is because the fuel rails do not have a access port to hook a fuel pressure gauge to.I will show you guys the correct way (sure this video will hit a million as there is nothing online on this) To many times over at Hyundai forums people have no start engine cuts off bad idle issues. I tell them to get the fuel pressure checked but this is hard to do. So many skip this but its important for certain diagnoses steps. Fuel, spark, Air. Anyway i'm sure many will find the information in this video of interest.
Thank you for the ft. pounds noted and socket/wrench size!! Great video ! Thank you sir.
Glad to help
Update: My 2011 Accent GS is done!! I put penetrating oil on the upper and lower nut of the stabilizer link every other day for a week. The upper nut broke loose easy with an open end wrench but the lower was a bit harder probably for 2 reasons; The bottom nut gets much more dirt, salt, rust and it will bounce/spring as it isn't a rigid mount like the upper is. A socket on a breaker bar and a few whacks of a big hammer did the trick.
I noticed in the video the link just came right out under no tension at all, however mine was, so I pried the sway bar up. I had a jack under the normal body position are you suppose to also use another jack under the swing arm for support? In any case prying the sway bar upwards worked and the job literally took me 12 minutes (lifetime Autozone part cost $25.99).
I can't believe in the past I actually paid Monro muffler $125.00 for a link job and they talked me into an alignment for another $100.00!!! A total of $243.00- OUCH! The kicker is they stripped the upper nut on the link, I realized it when the car was still making the "clunk" sound. Brought it back and they replaced the link, great! I decided to do my brakes myself a week later... the kid had also stripped all 4 wheel studs on the tire he had to remove/replace for the link! I had to break all 4 studs and replace them myself!! I wasn't going back to that place ever!
Again I thank you, for saving me time, aggravation and money!
+Mr. Kitty behind each link you can insert a wrench to hold the stabilzer ends from spinning to torque. Anyway glad my videos helped you out.
Excellent. thanks. I will be doing this when the weather lets up.
Thank you! This helps a lot.
How many Km's did you have on the car when you replaced this? Moog makes some good links with grease fittings, they may last longer than the OME ones if you grease them up every oil change. The OME ones use plastic inside, and wear quickly.
mikedrz 150,000klm
Thanks, my car is a 2007 Accent and it's just getting to that millage now. haha I have the same popping sound coming from the left side, I pried the link with a crowbar and it is a bit loose.
mikedrz my OEM's lasted 160K, not sure on the lifespan of Moogs
You say 32 ft lbs of torque. Yet when I look online. Hyundai manual says 86 as well as some other sources.
You can torque stabilizer past 32. I suggest calling hyundai service and ask them but they will tell you exactly what I stated as these numbers come from payed subscription to the factory tech manual for this vehicle. Call them if your concerned for your safety.
I'm interesting in you videos regarding accent 2009 , will U please tell me how can i locate purge valve and canister and if you have video on that .ragards
Under my banner is hyundai link. I hang out there in 2006 2011 accent forms helping users there. Thks
By the way, those are 14 mm NUTS not bolts.
hey, where are you from? what country? thanks
Ontario canada
Sweet
This problem vibration in break ......I'have this problem in hyundai accent !!!!!@
Abouzidane Salaheddine if vibration in steering wheel look front brakes. Guide pins in caliper brackets sticking or rotors warped. If vibration in seat check shoes and rear brake drums rear may be suspect.
at 125$, you get ripped off
Eric Plourde that's the price for OEM in Canadian, aftermarket is shit, my OEMs lasted 160K pretty good IMO
we're talking about a hyundai accent... lol