Anycubic Kobra 2 3D Printer Review
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2023
- Let's take a look at the latest Anycubic printer! It's quite fast!
bit.ly/3Miv8Js
Anycubic launches a brand new ultra-fast FDM printer, the Kobra 2, which is one of the best FDM printers under $300.
Amazon- $289, Official Store - $279
There will be a $10 discount during some events. 
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![Young Nudy - John Wayne (feat. Metro Boomin) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NY8HnYYo2fo/mqdefault.jpg)
Funny thing: When the rep that I know at Anycubic (Spring Zhou) asked me if I knew some youtubers to connect to, I sent them your channel and now I see you are reviewing another Anycubic printer :)
Well I hope you suggested some other younger people as well!
I wish I could even afford one 3D printer. They look like so much fun.
How have you managed to have so many problems?
I got mine yesterday, read the user manual, watched setup video, and had it built and printing in about 35 minutes (after checking I had everything in the kit.
It tells you about the nozzle wipe pad and the height sensor button at the back.
I let my bed warm up (to avoid temperature variations which could vary the metal bed plate), then did an auto level, which as it says, is 25 point grid, then printed the bed level print, then the benchy. Both came out perfect (30 minutes dead for the benchy).
Yeah ; I also bought the Neptune 4 pro and had far less issues than he did and I technically have less experience. So I have no idea what he was doing or maybe he just got a bad one out of the factory.
The metric system is beautiful.
What on God's green earth is a centimeter.
Hi Ben, I came across your channel while looking for information on the Kobra 2 as I recently purchased one myself. I was curious as to why Anycubic placed the spool holder on the left side instead of on top, which would save a lot of space. Would it be possible for you to share the stl file for your custom spool holder that you showed in your video, so that I can also mount my spool on top?
I bought my first 3D printer based on Ben's review a few years ago and haven't regretted it.
What is the Retraction distance for this printer?
Any issues with ozzing?
Thanks
Can you give us more details on how you attached the filement sensor switch to the machine ? Can you share the design ?
Sorry if i missed it in the video, but where'd you get the model for the top mount filament?
This is the first 3D printer I've ever used, and I've been running it non-stop since I got it. A month in I had a Power Supply fan issue, which was solved very quickly (bearing problem). Calibration took me about a week to fully figure out, but that's because I didn't know up from down or what axis went where. Overall a good machine for a really good price, and the quality is good also.
I would recommend it for newbies, any day of the week.
Me too, I have the Nano version with a smaller display. So far, so good
An update to anyone else that reads this. I've put over 300 prints on my machine, and I cleaned the bed the first time yesterday for prints not sticking to the bed. This thing is plug and play, highly recommended.
@@BluganoStudio Thats interesting to hear. I got myself the Kobra 2 max and am calibrating for weeks now without much success. Sometimes I get it to print one decent print, the next print the first layer is completely ripped again and I'm back to calibrating. It's a nightmare. I have wasted more PLA on calibration then on printing.
@@bliantfive That's a bummer to hear, but its all a learning curve. I've been having bad luck with a new batch of pla I picked up, so again I had to adjust things, ended up recalibrating, then auto levelling and adjusting the z offset (mine was -1.72mm, yours will be different) and then set the bed temp to 55 (it ran default at 40). and now im back up and running.
Once you auto level the bed, set the z offset so the nozzle is a little bit off the table (credit card thickness) then print a wide bottom print and set the offset manually while it prints. any little bubbles pop up or you can see it wiping excess away, too close to bed. If it comes out of the nozzle looking like a fully formed line, and separation occurs, or you get bad bed adhesion it's too far. Literally one step up or down will make the difference. Oh yeah, set the bed temp to 50-60, seriously... Hope I helped!
@@BluganoStudio thanks for the answer. That is exactly what i do. Uneven first layer, one step up, nice now it looks perfect. Let's start the print. Damn now the lines won't connect. One step down, still won't connect, one step down, still won't connect. I'm now two steps lower than before when it was to low and the lines still won't connect. I'm just a kilo of calibration pla from throwing the printer out. I was happier with my mp select mini V1.
Bud is waiting for the spaceship you building for him. :)
Flexing the build plate in the other direction is more effective IME, i.e. make the build surface convex rather than concave. Pretty nippy for a bed slinger though. I wonder if they are using input shaping, I would assume yes.
how did you solve the calibration sensor problem. doesn't make it work. updated to new firmware and now it seems impossible to get it to hit the sensor.
You have to take apart and clean the "sensor", which is actually a spring loaded contact switch with height adjustment. I had the same issue pop-up on mine after a week. 😢 I had completely forgot about Ben's issue. Anycubic support sent me the link to support KB. Took 10 minutes and back to the races.
how do you get the filament out after it runs out? the little bit the dd can run it backwards is enough to grab the filament?
You can undo the tube to the left of the filament switch.
Can i use this for my phone? If not ehats a cheap one i can use with my phone?
where can I find that top filliment holder stl?
I'm new here... Have you printed items with pliable filament?
where can i get the STL files for this!? this mod is a must
the Z axis is not moving for me how would o fix this
This is awesome! I'm trying to decide what to buy as my first 3D printer so this is really interesting for me
Looking at the side by side benchies with the included ini file and your tweaks, could have swore the built in looked like real life mpeg compression
27:20 The first thing I printed for my Vyper was a spool holder for the top. Seems odd they couldn’t design an arm that worked for either.
Nice and detailed review. Covered all the things I feel most if not all people would want to know plus the things you like about it and the ones you didn't/problems you had (how you solved them too). That makes me not mind the video was a bit long for one on the platform.
Does it have an all metal hotend?
on marlin you can just change the max feedrates in eeprom (with gcode or preferably something easier like repetier host's gui or something, also fw retracts, accelerations etc)
I loved the Steve1989MREInfo reference!
Ben, you have clearly lost your mind. But it's fun.
"Meh"
@@BenHeckHacks hey BEN , I dropped a Modder's Challenge on my community section 👍👍
35:40 a feed motor that assists?
I have an anycubic mega zero 2.0 (bought on Ben's review) I wish I could get a new magnetic bed for :( They're out of stock and haven't been in stock for ages. Don't think they're coming back at this point.
Just get an ender 3 bed it works
Favorite movie of all time? Seriously, Ben, I'd have thought you'd say something like, "The Wizard of Speed and Time."
use tree support for the joystick holder. Support material>style>organic. Or change XY separation between an object and its support. This is generally not need to be changed, but that prusa profile is not an official profile so it may have hidden boogers inserted.
After setting UBL or bilinear leveling, I plop a test object like a circle or square, then set a wide brim to trim in Z height. Start off @ 17-19 mm/s and the Z height @ 0 and dial it down till the squish looks good. Works like a charm.
You say ; "I dont understand why they can't mount the filament on top." Easy answer ; your talking a much faster machine , so the extra weight at the top is going to contribute to the resonance issues ( vibrations) which will become worse the more weight at the top. This is why the Engineers designed it this way !! At slower speeds it's not as much of an issue but at higher speeds the extra 1kg will contribute to extra sway as the bed moves back and forth. Be worse for a taller machine ! I won't be putting my roll on top of my Kobra 2 for that reason. If however you get an input shaper , that will help with any extra sway movement to a degree . ( The Kobra 2 pro , plus and Max come with it inbuilt )but it seems a silly thing to do just to save a little space.
I was looking into buying this machine as my first ever 3d printer. Are there things I need to look out for, things I need to buy extra or be careful off? Very helpful review, thank you very much for the info!
I have truly missed Ben singing!! Also, two vids in rapid succession!! Hell yeah!!
Some gcode files have the print settings embedded as comments. Cura uses gzip and based 64, slicer just pain text.
Is there a WORKING Cura profile for the Kobra 2 yet? Tried using the Kobra profile in Cura but it did not work. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi, did you found it?
@@ym6297 Yes Aycubic sent one to me after they finally created it lol. Thank you so much for checking!
@@LubaKorduba how can i get it also?
@@LubaKorduba let me know please
@@ym6297 Anycubic website
For a totally newbie, would it be a good machine to enter 3D printing vs Creality ? Thanks
I would look at the new Elgoo Neptune Pro, as it seems to work out of the box, and similar features, but with a led light. Cost less right now, and there a lot of good reviews on it. Regardless, being a newbie, no matter what printer, learn the jargon and what it means, and what it does. Save you a headache down the road.
@@monkeysnark7043 Thanks a lot for your advice ! 👍Elegoo Better than Creality too ?
@@pedoncule36 all the brands and their models, do have their good moments and bad moments, and fan boys. Every year, they change things up to compete, or add new or better features. Brands as, Anycubic, Elegoo, Creality, Artillery, Voxelab, and many more out there. Just need to look for features that help make 3d printing easier and consistent. Bed leveling, double Z axis rods, 32 bit mother board, silent stepper motors, good cooling features/fans on the head, (wifi, though just this year the low to mid range models are starting to offer this, and you can go and further read up why you might want that, for Klipper or Marlin and some other apps including your slicer, and using your browser to connect to your printer instead of a long cable or Raspberry Pi/Zero) , to name a few. Also, as a newbie, don't waste your time watching reviews and videos on expensive models, such as Bamboo, or build your own voron printer and other such niche machines, stick to the basics.
Friend, I just may add to your confusion, so you should go watch some different reviewers, and also see if they have their own web sites, that can further add and or explain what knowledge you need to learn and why. So, to answer your question, I will stick to my previous answer on the Neptune 3 Pro as a good starter machine, and ignore your question on what is a better brand, as I am NOT a fan boy of anything. Or, you can look at their Neptune 4 Pro at $299.00, that just came out and also has Klipper, in future proofing for more advanced features and ease of use. Again, as a total newbie, stay away now from using Klipper, unless you have a degree in programming with in-depth knowledge in 3D printing mechanics, and stick to using the regular GUI interface on the Neptune 4 Pro.
You are over thinking this, go buy, use/learn, and then go forward young 3D Jedi printer type person! Still, the Neptune 3 Pro machine I mentioned at $230.00, (currently still on sale), is just the tip of the iceberg. You then need filament, tools (caliper, metal ruler, tweezers, scalpel knife etc), a good place/table to use it, maybe a filament drier, glue stick to stick the hair back on your head after you pulled it out in frustration on a failed print (and you can also use that glue stick to help adhesion on the bed), etc. One last thought, if you don't got it, no way you will experience it or figure out what you will do, or what you need, as apposed to what you want.
One final last thought, if you go to ask ten people on all this, and then ask me last. So, I will not feel my time and advice is wasted, as I know most, they will do the last thing they heard. Why, because of (right or wrong) judgment fear, and/or procrastination, and/or over thinking, and this is also why I ignored your better brand question.
Cheers
Does the Z belt loose on yours ????
Liked Anycubic's Delta printers, but after the many issues with the Vyper which took months to tease out, I will wait to give them another go. OOB experience should be excellent with any bed slinger now. As far as the next generation of printers like Bambu's, I decided to skip being an early adopter and let them iterate for a year or so. Mt bed slingers are tuned in and quiet. The key for me for my next major purchase will be speed with quality but must still be quiet. S3D just released V5.1 - I still love their interface so I am sticking with them for most prints.
I really want the water soluable filament. They should just have a second hotend on the extruder like BIBO 2.
When I was at school in the UK in the early '80s, my metalwork teacher made us use metric measurements and my woodwork teacher made us use imperial measurements, to be honest I prefer metric as it is much easier for division!
Sovols SV07 machine has dual independent Z's so you can use G34 to level the gantry, I have this on my printers and it is one of my favourite Marlin functions, IMO all dual Z leadscrew machines should come with this as a default!
WARNING: You failed to talk about the nozzle issue.
This hot end uses a non-standard Volcano nozzle... In fact, we should not say Volcano as it is not one.
A real deal breaker for us. We can't find suppliers for this weird type of nozzle so will probably end-up returning the multiple Kobra2 we purchased for our print farm.
A ship can carry a boat but a boat cannot carry a ship.
Do you still have the Kobra max? If so how has it been since you made the video?
I have a Kobra max and I'm very happy with it.
I still have it. I've done some large prints for a music video. But yeah I usually give these away at shows.
@@BenHeckHacks cool, thanks for the reply.
Prusa Slicer is the best in my experience. Good to see a Chinese printer company upgrading from Cura.
Nice Video, Great Channel 👍 Greetings from Germany ❤
I love your banter
Don't all the anycubics do that filament on the side thing. I changed mine. I think it feeds better and less room
Where is discount code ?
My god, I did the same thing with Simplify 3D. I used v5 twice... it didn't feel right at all so went back to 4.1 where I am happy :)
Hey Ben, the cat is out of the bag, or in your case, box! 😊On another note, I wonder if you got an engineer prototype early version, as another reviewer did not have your issues?
OH, forgot to mention, and no pimples. 😂
My echo answered before yours did 😂
Great, thanks 👍
As you can see below print bed surface at 47:16, is it part of some exotic plant or a common native grass? And what's going on here?🪴🤔🤫🤐
Holy crap....an Atari Lynx on the shelf. My man! Oh, and thank you for the review! I'm stuck on the fence....pre-buyers remorse on three or four models.
Holy cow, that probe looked way too high compared to the nozzle tip.
That PTFE tube for a direct extruder is a bit crazy. There are smarter runout sensors for direct extruders (JUz2u5sb9zc).
what a second video in two days ben are you ok
Did every person on you tube that is into 3D printeing get this printer?
Probably!
Oh! At first, I thought you were singing 'Loan me a cup of blood'.
You'll know your boat is becoming a ship when it starts developing barnacles and becomes interested in other ships. These kinds of nautical changes are normal and nothing to be worried about.
Ben needs a cup of love and some healing now . Extrude it !
A boat can't carry a ship, but a ship can carry a boat
Unless the boat's too big. Then the ship becomes a submarine, which is a boat.
@@yadabub A boat which submerges is a U-Boat, not a submarine.
OH look there is a 🧜🏾♀️ ! Btw, a boat which submerges, is neither a U-boat or a submarine! It is, wait for it, ….. 😅 …… a shipwreck!
bud is thicc got damn
46:54 lol, the technical term
You seem like a bro Ben wish I had more mad scientist friends like you
30:00 NICE!
Box, check, cat, check - This is going to be a good video
In a turn a ship will lean away from the turn, where a boat will lean into the turn.
Bud's whine = another cat (+ robot litter box) please!
Yay Bud ❤
Bud is definitely megacatting.
Be nice to Bud, he just has needs. My sweetie whines too you just need to give them attention or something to do 😊
A boat is a craft that can be lifted onto a ship.
Hi Ben love your work! Was wondering if I could commission you to build me a tinytendo. Let me know when you get a chance🦅
According to industry regulations a boat becomes a ship when the insurance companies can justify tripling the premiums for half of the coverage.
I think that when you lifted it with force, made him mad.
It would be interesting if i wasn't so expensive
Mainly for those with low paying jobs and not all that interested in printing
Anycubic mesh leveling sucks
It doesnt do squat on the kobra plus
Alexia, ChatGPT is funnier than you. Alexa: ah ok let all hackers hack the whole house and bank account.😂 let chatgpt save you now.
Tree supports ftw🎉
Oh wait tree supports are only available in 2.6 alpha
You do realize that the US is OFFICIALLY using the metric system ... but for some reason you guys convert everything ...
Anycubic: We have more 3D printers in the US than any other brand!!!
Everyone Else: Hmmm were you getting that figure from Anycubic?
Anycubic: Just look at Ben Hecks videos, half of them are in his basement!!!
Everyone Else: OK, fair point!
I have the usual Ender 3.. and the print speed combined with the noise is why I rarely use it... that and my overall motivation to do anything of course.
Change mainboard and fans. Helps a lot.
@@bbekkaa365 does the mainboard have any effect on the sound the servos make? I is really the high pitch that travels throught the entire house..
Sounds like a few people on here are having teething troubles with their kobra 2 . As with lots of companies which I could mention; there can be teething troubles. It's a pain in the bum but if you want to have less teething problems , wait 6 months or so for their Engineers to have a chance to fix them or accept the fact that something early in development is going to have some issues. It would be good if the company fixed them beforehand but I know of so many companies that have similar problems. So Anycubic isn't the only 3d company that has problems. So if you want to crap on it make sure you do the same to all the other 3d printer companies!
The commentary is hilarious.
Obligatory Bud as one of Steve1989MRE's reviews.... nice!
BEN! 🎉🎉🎉
A boat becomes a ship when the boat is registered with the nautical authorities as a ship.
The 365th video!
18:10 ayyo wtf 😅😅
12:55 im dying
A boat becomes a ship when it turns 13.
⛵ vs 🚢
You can put a boat on a ship, but you can't put a ship on a boat.
I think this might actually be the us navy definition. The question is what do you call a vessel which you can put a ship on? I feel like it deserves a new name like Zargon.
@@fishman241 aka The Mothership
A ship is big enough to carry a boat.
Also, a ship has a captain, but a boat is operated by committee.
After the vyper they ain’t getting not one red cent from me any more.
Can i know why? I'm very new in these topic of 3D printers
@@omegadeepblue1407 design flaw causes the pressure sensor to bend and then the thing can't print. They never shipped me a replacement sensor or unit or anything and that company can go to hell. You're better off with the mega zero 2.0 if anything from them. I dunno why consumers are ok with this research and development on their dime.
220 x 220 x 250.
Embargo lifted!
unregardless
Thanks for your video 😊