That wheel is for marking out stitching. Old fashioned tool now. Many saddle makers including Don Gonzales would argue that olive oil is great on leather.
@sloth_e yes, I had a seamstress tell me it was for transferring patterns. @dongonzales is my favorite leather crafter, and I've heard him say this before. I just feel it isn't the best choice for leather.
@jacdupleatherworks If it works for you, then I say keep using it. I feel neatsfoot oil is fairly inexpensive and it's specifically made to use on leather, which is why I suggest it.
I say, Practice, Practic, Practice. Remember, The first time you make something you follow the pattern. The Second time, you tweek the design and the demetionss. And the tird time you profect you work. Working on a luggage tage (Third Time) and I am liking the results.
@edgell3 thank you for sharing. I like to think practice not only makes us better, but it can help improve the design of a project - just like you said here. Thank you for sharing.
I appreciated on a trip to my local Tandy Leather Factory store last year, I asked about what would be a "good" cutting knife since I'm mostly dabbling right now in the occasional personal leather project, and the ladies working the register were both in agreement "just get an X-acto knife or utility blade" rather than pushing any of the cutting implements that were literally hung up on the wall next to me, that I'd been looking at, when I asked. (Also, loved the Blazing Saddles reference!)
Here is something that might help without breaking the bank. Rather than trying to find granite for stamping try a piece of marble. I bought a piece that is 3/8x12x12 inches. $5.00 A bit sharp on the edges but easily sandable. I keep it on a cutting mat and have really pounded on it with no problem.
You nailed it Mr. Big Stacks. Cool if i add my two cents. Cheap disposable break-off blades are brilliant. I use a groover on the edges of straps and adds a deco look after you dye the project. Yes i also recommend neats foot oil, Olive oil hasn't work for me. Thanks again for the awesome advice & video.
@062809 That is a great idea, my friend. Thank you for sharing. I appreciate and encourage you to share any experiences you have which may help our viewers.
On the 'only buy a tool when needed' point. This can also lead to a complacency trap. It is easy to fall into the habit of saying 'well this project would require this new tool/material so I will skip it for now' and then never actually get back to it. That said, one leathersmith I know is fond of saying that most of the work you will do can be done with 4 dedicated tools. Knife, Needle, Mallet/Maul, and an Awl. Apparently, nearly everything else can be done with other things. For example, a cloth can be used instead of an Edge Slicker and to dye the leather. Though apparently, he watched a video by the Skill Tree youtube channel and is now obsessing over the filling you can get for homemade stuffed animals as the way to dye leather for cheap. Bonus in that you can always make a stuffed animal or pillow with it. Edit: Said Leathersmith has asked me to specify that he does recommend a strap cutter, round knife, and a good pair of shears as immediate purchases if one decides to go any further than just making small items.
@jtmc93 I can definitely see the complacency thing happen, you would just have to be aware of this mindset to avoid i t, instead of avoiding the project you would like to build.
I'm in the semi-disagree about the tools one, a major reason is that it's something where I've had several projects that I've tried out doing which I never would have considered except that I had the tools there to try them out with several different things. Also, with things such as stamps and other tools, while not necessary, looking for deals for interesting ones is a fun thing to do and the stamps aren't that expensive to start with. Same thing with the amazon kits, several of the kits, especially the ones with a nicer case, are a good starting point for getting a lot of things at once. There are also the project kits that are another great option on Amazon and elsewhere for different things that give you what you need to make them (or most of the things). It also works as a way for someone starting to actually feel like they've accomplished something with something actually being finished during it and many give you some tools in the process to build it up. Also, the spiked roller that you were using is for marking stitching holes, you run it along a groove and it marks regular points to go through with stitching. I've largely used it to mark locations so that I can count them out and figure out the specifics for the actual hole placement since a light run through a groove doesn't leave much of a mark when you're done and higher pressure, with thinner/softer leather can go for the entire stitching holes.
@AzraelThantos I can agree with you on getting some of those stamps and some of the specialty tools if you find them at a good price or on sale. I bought someone's entire leather set before and got a bunch of things I still haven't used. I'm still in the camp that some tools in the tool kit are okay, some are cheap garbage. After working with decent tools, I still think it's best to purchase the tools outside of the kits. I'm going to try that spiky wheel for stitching holes, because I don't see how it will work out properly. But I'm willing to try and eat crow if I'm wrong. And you are right about the 3d stamps, this things are really cool. They add a great touch to your work while starting out!
I’ll have to admit to using a pick, for my stitching holes. ( and a dremel). Not my Tandy , but the Chinese ones that came in a kit. They are a lot thinner- I have needles the same size! Since the handles broke often I purchased a few more. Now, since those prices have gone up, I’m hoping my last one lasts! I actually do not like the chisels, all that much. They don’t go through thicker leather. Plus I think they also push just like a pick. I’m curious about what’s a good & inexpensive strap-belt cutting tool. My strap cutter will not cut 11+ leather. It breaks the blade and also readjusts the strap width. I see there is an Ampseven that looks like it might be useful. Anyone know?
@cherriebeyer9531 Thank you for sharing your experience. I sometimes use a stitching punch that will cut three holes in a holes in a row. Its cuts holes like a punch, and doesn't have chiseled ends. But, if using the all works fine with you, I say stick with it. As far as the strap cutter you are talking about it, Im not familiar with it. Perhaps one of the Big Stacks Family can chime in with more information.
i've been told that the wheel you asked what it was is a stiching wheel. It is used to maker where the stiching holes should go. It is used with a stiching awl to create the holes. I do not have one, and do not plan to buy one, Iagree with you, stick with the punches designed to give you the best results.
@edgell3 @cherriebeyer9331 is correct, the pins are too small. In my livestream video from a few months ago, one of the Big Stacks Family told me it was to transfer patterns using carbon paper.
@@bigstacksshop I was taught that both are right. It transfers a stitching pattern through carbon paper or directly onto the item depending on circumstances. The closer stitches are meant for lighter weight leathers and cloth. One way I was shown to use it was to lay a piece of cloth on top of carbon paper on top of the leather, then run this along where the seam will be. Then use that to sew the cloth and leather together. The example being made was cloth lined leather gloves. Was also told that if you have a sewing machine capable of doing this then it is pointless. Edit: though the Amazon specials variety tend to be flimsy compared to others. (And I was also informed it can be used for something like embroidery on leather though it wasn't elaborated on how that worked.)
There are stitching awls that make nice holes, but a scratch awl definitely won't give the same result. And stitching awls are harder to use than pricking irons. Idk how many times I've stabbed myself with the awl, thats not really a concern with a pricking iron
@abbiholz9274 I did not consider stitching awls, but I think maybe it's because a scratch awl was shown in the video I saw. You are correct, thank you for sharing.
very funny indeed, the best advice i could give a beginner is to start small, get some simple tools and some ok leather from an online company, and do some easy projects until you find out if leathercrafting is for you or not, if not no harm done to your wallet
@andyablluxembourg8627 Thank you sharing, I couldn't agree more. If you have an interest in leather craft, you can get some simple tools really cheap to get started. If you find it's not for you, no big damage to your bank account.
So i wonder, olive oil does go rancid; linseed oil usually manages to avoid that, or it goes through that stage while not becoming permanently stinky and gels instead. Whether you should be using something from a tree or from a cow when doing a cow hide thing? Well there's a good reason most of the cow got stripped away, it wasn't good for it either, the cow goes bad rather rapidly and very very unpleasantly. Sooo... it depends i guess? You probably use wax, does wax come from a cow? Some of the products used in the craft may contain petrochemicals, do they come from a cow?
@SianaGearz I use the stuff which came from the cow to hydrate it just enough. I'm not trying to turn it back into a cow. I do agree wurth your logic, there are a lot of products which aren't from a cow and work. But I definitely don't want something which will go rancid.
@jacdupleatherworks I admit I haven't personally tested this theory with leather, but I've been woodworking a long time and I know it will get a funky over time on wooden cutting boards.
@@bigstacksshop when I was first started out I was given some key advice that seems to have held for me. There are two types of olive oil: hot pressed and cold pressed. Hot pressed olive oil will go rancid, cold pressed wont and you should only ever use olive oil you know for certain is cold pressed. Never seems to have gone astray for me and I have had a piece I oiled with cold pressed olive oil in my backpack for 4 years now without an issue. The type of olive oil that is used by default seems to vary from country to country so it might be why some people never have an issue and others do. I can't find any actual evidence as to why this seems to be the case when used on leather and a lot of mixed results of people trying it.
I wouldn't get a cheap stitching groover from amazon. I did and it mostly compressed the leather and shaved off a hair of it. Later i got a $40 Japanese stitching groover from another website, its like a razor sharp katana. it actually cuts the leather groove like its suppose too. Amazon leather craft kits are terrible tool quality. there is no description of the tools inside either so it confuses new people. the only thing i still use from my amazon kit is the needles and thread. everything else was either unnecessary or dull. Also the stitching groover in the kit was machined wrong the edge guide bar sits at an angle from the tips and should of been thrown in the scrap bin.
Getchu a cranker shoe patcher from the CCP. They’re pretty cheap and you can make them produce fairly acceptable stitching in the best case scenario and everything goes just right. …provided that you’ve put in your necessary 1000 hours disassembling, cleaning, removing mill scale, sanding, straightening, modifying, painting, polishing, reassembling, setting up, experimenting, failing, researching, reading message boards, finding the right needles and thread, experimenting, endlessly adjusting tension top and bottom, being frustrated, throwing machine, repairs, mor learning, experimenting, celebrate finding tricks for setting timing and needle depth, poke needle thru finger, Waller out needle hole to run heavier needle for heavier thread, search for preloaded bobbins that weird size, frustration, more experiments then finally, the planets are aligned and you get good stitches! Then you realize you’ll never see anything that thin and try what you use and break the needle make rats best underneath, nothing will move it’s all jacked up throw the piece of crap again! Repair…. Then one day, things finally start making sense and you get a feel for why things are how they are and what does what and finally…you can semireliably lay down some stitches. I basically only end up using mine on belts. Mostly long straight runs, it’s not too bad. Wish you could load about three times as much bobbin thread in it tho. What a pain! But I’ve got ideas. I’m working on a solution. I’d possibly use it more if I can fix the tiny bobbin issue. But it’s still just semi good lock stitches tho. Most of what I make really needs saddle stitched fir me to feel good about it. I don’t trust lock stitches on some if my stuff at all. Maybe if you know about sewing already and are pretty handy, and patient, and good at trouble shooting, depending on what kind of work you do it may be worth getting one of these hand crank shoe patchers. …sit around with your hand on your crank. Ha! Hell, maybe I’m just an idiot n had a rough time figuring it out. Idk. Get one just so you can make crank jokes.
All of what you wrote is exactly why I did not get one. I'm searching for a industrial grade machine which will work. Probably something used so it won't break the bank. I'm not the biggest fan of hand stitching, but I feel it is a better option for me right now.
That wheel is for marking out stitching. Old fashioned tool now. Many saddle makers including Don Gonzales would argue that olive oil is great on leather.
ive been using olive pomice oil for years the guy that taught me used olive oil
@sloth_e yes, I had a seamstress tell me it was for transferring patterns. @dongonzales is my favorite leather crafter, and I've heard him say this before. I just feel it isn't the best choice for leather.
@jacdupleatherworks If it works for you, then I say keep using it.
I feel neatsfoot oil is fairly inexpensive and it's specifically made to use on leather, which is why I suggest it.
@@bigstacksshop where people go wrong is they grab the stuff from the supermarket ment for your kitchen, love the videos hoss keep'em rollin
@@JacdUpLeatherworks what you are saying here makes total sense. Thank you for the kind words, my friend!
I say, Practice, Practic, Practice. Remember, The first time you make something you follow the pattern. The Second time, you tweek the design and the demetionss. And the tird time you profect you work. Working on a luggage tage (Third Time) and I am liking the results.
@edgell3 thank you for sharing. I like to think practice not only makes us better, but it can help improve the design of a project - just like you said here. Thank you for sharing.
I did one step before. For your first project, consider simply buying a pre-cut kit.
@scottbeal9538 That is a great idea. It will give a new leather crafter confidence with little stress about screwing things up.
I appreciated on a trip to my local Tandy Leather Factory store last year, I asked about what would be a "good" cutting knife since I'm mostly dabbling right now in the occasional personal leather project, and the ladies working the register were both in agreement "just get an X-acto knife or utility blade" rather than pushing any of the cutting implements that were literally hung up on the wall next to me, that I'd been looking at, when I asked.
(Also, loved the Blazing Saddles reference!)
@matthewwryan8463. Thank you so much for sharing your experoence. Kudos for catching the reference, I a huge Mel Brooks fan.
Here is something that might help without breaking the bank. Rather than trying to find granite for stamping try a piece of marble. I bought a piece that is 3/8x12x12 inches. $5.00 A bit sharp on the edges but easily sandable. I keep it on a cutting mat and have really pounded on it with no problem.
@larrycumba2741 This is a great inexpensive idea!
This is very good advice! Thanks! ❤
@sick1982 thank you very much for the comment and the love!
I'm looking forward to the followup video: how to repair a broken paddleball toy
@filmtravelermatt I figured out how to fix the paddle toy, but considering how warped it is, I may just go out and get a new one.
You have my vote!
@davebanister6310 I appreciate it my friend!
Thank you for the great video, and the Mel Brooks/Blazing Saddles reference XD
@Kaylen913 Much appreciated my friend, thank you!
You nailed it Mr. Big Stacks. Cool if i add my two cents. Cheap disposable break-off blades are brilliant. I use a groover on the edges of straps and adds a deco look after you dye the project. Yes i also recommend neats foot oil, Olive oil hasn't work for me. Thanks again for the awesome advice & video.
@062809 That is a great idea, my friend. Thank you for sharing. I appreciate and encourage you to share any experiences you have which may help our viewers.
On the 'only buy a tool when needed' point. This can also lead to a complacency trap. It is easy to fall into the habit of saying 'well this project would require this new tool/material so I will skip it for now' and then never actually get back to it.
That said, one leathersmith I know is fond of saying that most of the work you will do can be done with 4 dedicated tools. Knife, Needle, Mallet/Maul, and an Awl. Apparently, nearly everything else can be done with other things. For example, a cloth can be used instead of an Edge Slicker and to dye the leather. Though apparently, he watched a video by the Skill Tree youtube channel and is now obsessing over the filling you can get for homemade stuffed animals as the way to dye leather for cheap. Bonus in that you can always make a stuffed animal or pillow with it.
Edit: Said Leathersmith has asked me to specify that he does recommend a strap cutter, round knife, and a good pair of shears as immediate purchases if one decides to go any further than just making small items.
@jtmc93 I can definitely see the complacency thing happen, you would just have to be aware of this mindset to avoid i t, instead of avoiding the project you would like to build.
which snaps do use for leather crafts
@vincentnardozza3191 I really like the Weaver Line 24 snaps. They are a decent snap that comes in a full range of finishes.
I'm in the semi-disagree about the tools one, a major reason is that it's something where I've had several projects that I've tried out doing which I never would have considered except that I had the tools there to try them out with several different things. Also, with things such as stamps and other tools, while not necessary, looking for deals for interesting ones is a fun thing to do and the stamps aren't that expensive to start with.
Same thing with the amazon kits, several of the kits, especially the ones with a nicer case, are a good starting point for getting a lot of things at once. There are also the project kits that are another great option on Amazon and elsewhere for different things that give you what you need to make them (or most of the things). It also works as a way for someone starting to actually feel like they've accomplished something with something actually being finished during it and many give you some tools in the process to build it up.
Also, the spiked roller that you were using is for marking stitching holes, you run it along a groove and it marks regular points to go through with stitching. I've largely used it to mark locations so that I can count them out and figure out the specifics for the actual hole placement since a light run through a groove doesn't leave much of a mark when you're done and higher pressure, with thinner/softer leather can go for the entire stitching holes.
@AzraelThantos I can agree with you on getting some of those stamps and some of the specialty tools if you find them at a good price or on sale. I bought someone's entire leather set before and got a bunch of things I still haven't used.
I'm still in the camp that some tools in the tool kit are okay, some are cheap garbage. After working with decent tools, I still think it's best to purchase the tools outside of the kits.
I'm going to try that spiky wheel for stitching holes, because I don't see how it will work out properly. But I'm willing to try and eat crow if I'm wrong.
And you are right about the 3d stamps, this things are really cool. They add a great touch to your work while starting out!
I’ll have to admit to using a pick, for my stitching holes. ( and a dremel). Not my Tandy , but the Chinese ones that came in a kit. They are a lot thinner- I have needles the same size! Since the handles broke often I purchased a few more. Now, since those prices have gone up, I’m hoping my last one lasts!
I actually do not like the chisels, all that much. They don’t go through thicker leather. Plus I think they also push just like a pick.
I’m curious about what’s a good & inexpensive strap-belt cutting tool.
My strap cutter will not cut 11+ leather. It breaks the blade and also readjusts the strap width.
I see there is an Ampseven that looks like it might be useful. Anyone know?
@cherriebeyer9531 Thank you for sharing your experience. I sometimes use a stitching punch that will cut three holes in a holes in a row. Its cuts holes like a punch, and doesn't have chiseled ends.
But, if using the all works fine with you, I say stick with it.
As far as the strap cutter you are talking about it, Im not familiar with it. Perhaps one of the Big Stacks Family can chime in with more information.
That spiky thing is obv for sensory play. I mean we are talking leathercrafting 😂
@coloraddiction Exactly, it's why half of the leather workers started their craft to begin with.
i've been told that the wheel you asked what it was is a stiching wheel. It is used to maker where the stiching holes should go. It is used with a stiching awl to create the holes. I do not have one, and do not plan to buy one, Iagree with you, stick with the punches designed to give you the best results.
I have what he is showing. They are not the same as the stitching wheels. They have thin almost like bristles, and are too close for stitches.
@edgell3 @cherriebeyer9331 is correct, the pins are too small. In my livestream video from a few months ago, one of the Big Stacks Family told me it was to transfer patterns using carbon paper.
@@bigstacksshop I was taught that both are right.
It transfers a stitching pattern through carbon paper or directly onto the item depending on circumstances. The closer stitches are meant for lighter weight leathers and cloth.
One way I was shown to use it was to lay a piece of cloth on top of carbon paper on top of the leather, then run this along where the seam will be. Then use that to sew the cloth and leather together.
The example being made was cloth lined leather gloves.
Was also told that if you have a sewing machine capable of doing this then it is pointless.
Edit: though the Amazon specials variety tend to be flimsy compared to others.
(And I was also informed it can be used for something like embroidery on leather though it wasn't elaborated on how that worked.)
@@JTMC93 when stitching fabric and wood together makes a lot of sense.
There are stitching awls that make nice holes, but a scratch awl definitely won't give the same result.
And stitching awls are harder to use than pricking irons. Idk how many times I've stabbed myself with the awl, thats not really a concern with a pricking iron
@abbiholz9274 I did not consider stitching awls, but I think maybe it's because a scratch awl was shown in the video I saw. You are correct, thank you for sharing.
very funny indeed, the best advice i could give a beginner is to start small, get some simple tools and some ok leather from an online company, and do some easy projects until you find out if leathercrafting is for you or not, if not no harm done to your wallet
@andyablluxembourg8627 Thank you sharing, I couldn't agree more. If you have an interest in leather craft, you can get some simple tools really cheap to get started. If you find it's not for you, no big damage to your bank account.
So i wonder, olive oil does go rancid; linseed oil usually manages to avoid that, or it goes through that stage while not becoming permanently stinky and gels instead.
Whether you should be using something from a tree or from a cow when doing a cow hide thing? Well there's a good reason most of the cow got stripped away, it wasn't good for it either, the cow goes bad rather rapidly and very very unpleasantly. Sooo... it depends i guess? You probably use wax, does wax come from a cow? Some of the products used in the craft may contain petrochemicals, do they come from a cow?
@SianaGearz I use the stuff which came from the cow to hydrate it just enough. I'm not trying to turn it back into a cow.
I do agree wurth your logic, there are a lot of products which aren't from a cow and work. But I definitely don't want something which will go rancid.
You are hilarious😅😂
@BabyJohn8170 Thank you my friend.
ive been using olive oil since i started and have never had it go "rancid"
@jacdupleatherworks I admit I haven't personally tested this theory with leather, but I've been woodworking a long time and I know it will get a funky over time on wooden cutting boards.
@@bigstacksshop when I was first started out I was given some key advice that seems to have held for me. There are two types of olive oil: hot pressed and cold pressed. Hot pressed olive oil will go rancid, cold pressed wont and you should only ever use olive oil you know for certain is cold pressed. Never seems to have gone astray for me and I have had a piece I oiled with cold pressed olive oil in my backpack for 4 years now without an issue. The type of olive oil that is used by default seems to vary from country to country so it might be why some people never have an issue and others do.
I can't find any actual evidence as to why this seems to be the case when used on leather and a lot of mixed results of people trying it.
@@Betttris13 I'm going to have to try the cold pressed variety
💯🔥
@platoon-mg1qv thank you my friend.
I wouldn't get a cheap stitching groover from amazon. I did and it mostly compressed the leather and shaved off a hair of it.
Later i got a $40 Japanese stitching groover from another website, its like a razor sharp katana. it actually cuts the leather groove like its suppose too.
Amazon leather craft kits are terrible tool quality. there is no description of the tools inside either so it confuses new people. the only thing i still use from my amazon kit is the needles and thread. everything else was either unnecessary or dull. Also the stitching groover in the kit was machined wrong the edge guide bar sits at an angle from the tips and should of been thrown in the scrap bin.
@darkshadowsx5949 Thank you for sharing, I appreciate your input. Where did you get your stitching grover? I'd like to try it out.
@@bigstacksshop Japanese Stitching Groover & Edge Creaser
its $50 not 40 sorry.
Is it from BuckleGuy? I found on their site
Getchu a cranker shoe patcher from the CCP. They’re pretty cheap and you can make them produce fairly acceptable stitching in the best case scenario and everything goes just right. …provided that you’ve put in your necessary 1000 hours disassembling, cleaning, removing mill scale, sanding, straightening, modifying, painting, polishing, reassembling, setting up, experimenting, failing, researching, reading message boards, finding the right needles and thread, experimenting, endlessly adjusting tension top and bottom, being frustrated, throwing machine, repairs, mor learning, experimenting, celebrate finding tricks for setting timing and needle depth, poke needle thru finger, Waller out needle hole to run heavier needle for heavier thread, search for preloaded bobbins that weird size, frustration, more experiments then finally, the planets are aligned and you get good stitches! Then you realize you’ll never see anything that thin and try what you use and break the needle make rats best underneath, nothing will move it’s all jacked up throw the piece of crap again! Repair…. Then one day, things finally start making sense and you get a feel for why things are how they are and what does what and finally…you can semireliably lay down some stitches. I basically only end up using mine on belts. Mostly long straight runs, it’s not too bad. Wish you could load about three times as much bobbin thread in it tho. What a pain! But I’ve got ideas. I’m working on a solution. I’d possibly use it more if I can fix the tiny bobbin issue. But it’s still just semi good lock stitches tho. Most of what I make really needs saddle stitched fir me to feel good about it. I don’t trust lock stitches on some if my stuff at all.
Maybe if you know about sewing already and are pretty handy, and patient, and good at trouble shooting, depending on what kind of work you do it may be worth getting one of these hand crank shoe patchers. …sit around with your hand on your crank. Ha! Hell, maybe I’m just an idiot n had a rough time figuring it out. Idk. Get one just so you can make crank jokes.
All of what you wrote is exactly why I did not get one. I'm searching for a industrial grade machine which will work. Probably something used so it won't break the bank.
I'm not the biggest fan of hand stitching, but I feel it is a better option for me right now.
Umm u condition ur beard with some thing from a tree, i your logic i flawed!
There is olive oil in lots of hair and skin care products.