greetings mr.pettit and gentlemen.i thought to myself,NOTHING STANDS IN THE WAY OF A MASTER CRAFTSMAN LIKE MR.PETTIT.AGAIN AN EXELLENT LESSON.THANK YOU SIR
Mind blown at beauty!!!!!💥 that’s nice, my favorite part is there’s no laminate behind it. kinda like how you made the bow in a form or however you made it. and put the handle on afterwards, that’s what i love. BROWN GORILLA GLUE!!! best glue ever as it expands into both pieces like a a foam. I had a handle pop issue, buddy said try this n low n behold it held. i also added sinew to hold handle in case. the rawhide on handle is recessed or inflated, lmao at inlay, not even close.
Great video as always. I actually have to do a repair on a handle just like this. Can you use E40 in cold temps I remember someone saying the E 40 requires a hot box to cure properly. If you don't use a hot box the joint will separate during hot weather.
Patently not true. The spec sheet calls for optimal usage at 70 degrees with longer cure times at lower temps (24 hours at room temperature.) A hot box only speeds the cure time. I’ve been using ea40 almost exclusively for over 10 years with the only failures being ultimately traced back to my craftsmanship. That being said, I haven’t tested my luck against curing temperatures less than room temp.
Is the handle material the same as the belly wood? And do your fades go into the belly as you suggested? There is more to the recipe that may work for you.
@@meadowlarkadventuregear IMHO, the powerlam should be longer than the riser , fade outs included . I mean the powerlam should extend past the fade-outs and you put it between the bamboo back and the ipe belly.
greetings mr.pettit and gentlemen.i thought to myself,NOTHING STANDS IN THE WAY OF A MASTER CRAFTSMAN LIKE MR.PETTIT.AGAIN AN EXELLENT LESSON.THANK YOU SIR
Mind blown at beauty!!!!!💥 that’s nice, my favorite part is there’s no laminate behind it. kinda like how you made the bow in a form or however you made it. and put the handle on afterwards, that’s what i love. BROWN GORILLA GLUE!!!
best glue ever as it expands into both pieces like a a foam. I had a handle pop issue, buddy said try this n low n behold it held.
i also added sinew to hold handle in case. the rawhide on handle is recessed or inflated, lmao at inlay, not even close.
Great video as always. I actually have to do a repair on a handle just like this. Can you use E40 in cold temps I remember someone saying the E 40 requires a hot box to cure properly. If you don't use a hot box the joint will separate during hot weather.
Patently not true. The spec sheet calls for optimal usage at 70 degrees with longer cure times at lower temps (24 hours at room temperature.) A hot box only speeds the cure time. I’ve been using ea40 almost exclusively for over 10 years with the only failures being ultimately traced back to my craftsmanship. That being said, I haven’t tested my luck against curing temperatures less than room temp.
Great tutorial..thanks so much..🙂 ;-)
Thank you for watching!!!
The fadeouts should be in the ipe part of the limbs .
I employed a power lam to mitigate the need for fade-outs that extend into the belly on this build.
@@meadowlarkadventuregear Sorry, I don't see that power lam . I had the same delamination on some of my bows .After regluing it keeps on coming .
Is the handle material the same as the belly wood? And do your fades go into the belly as you suggested? There is more to the recipe that may work for you.
@@meadowlarkadventuregear IMHO, the powerlam should be longer than the riser , fade outs included . I mean the powerlam should extend past the fade-outs and you put it between the bamboo back and the ipe belly.
Maybe because is flat and curve Tha pieces of hickory
fades to short