@@Chambers36TheEnter sockets. I was surprised how easy it was. Too easy actually. That's what made me think I'd done it wrong and have a look on RUclips.
I just wish my pawls went in as easy as yours - grrr ;-) Bearings, make sure that they are specified as ABEC-3 or above, Ceramic are ABEC-9. Hope hubs are machined tight in the bearing fitment, ie, holes too small. So even new bearings can be pinched up and have too much friction. If you do the build, put the wheel in the frame and make it tight with the qr. Then poor a kettle full of boiling water over the body of the hub (try to not get on bearings) it will expand the alloy hub loosening the bearing fit, then spin the wheel, it will help the bearings to move a little and align properly. They will then be smoother and last longer. Always put grease inside the end-caps as they will corrode onto the spindle and be hard to remove. By modern standards ALL Hope hubs are heavy and badly designed; so unless you need spares for 20+ yrs and tractor like strength I'd pick something else. Now that the DT "star ratchet" is being universally adopted (not by Hope yet) I'd always get that type of system.
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Thanks for the video, helped me a lot to service my Bulbs!
Thanks for the video, very helpful
You're welcome.
Had Ti glides back in the day 😎
The Ti glides are nice pretty hubs.
Good timing on the upload. Just rebuilt mine today. Glad to see I did it the same as you.
Apart from removing the bearings I think it's quite simple. Did you have the hope tools or did you just use a socket to put in the new bearings?
@@Chambers36TheEnter sockets. I was surprised how easy it was. Too easy actually. That's what made me think I'd done it wrong and have a look on RUclips.
@@SwimBikeRunFastest I guess that means you hammered them in straight. 👍
I just wish my pawls went in as easy as yours - grrr ;-) Bearings, make sure that they are specified as ABEC-3 or above, Ceramic are ABEC-9. Hope hubs are machined tight in the bearing fitment, ie, holes too small. So even new bearings can be pinched up and have too much friction. If you do the build, put the wheel in the frame and make it tight with the qr. Then poor a kettle full of boiling water over the body of the hub (try to not get on bearings) it will expand the alloy hub loosening the bearing fit, then spin the wheel, it will help the bearings to move a little and align properly. They will then be smoother and last longer. Always put grease inside the end-caps as they will corrode onto the spindle and be hard to remove. By modern standards ALL Hope hubs are heavy and badly designed; so unless you need spares for 20+ yrs and tractor like strength I'd pick something else. Now that the DT "star ratchet" is being universally adopted (not by Hope yet) I'd always get that type of system.
Great guide! dont suppose you know what freehub would be a good replacement for a hope xc hub?
No, sorry I don't. I wasn't sure if anything but their own design worked.
I have a spare one, titanium I think. Let me know if interested.