With this video as my guide, I rebuilt my carb on my 07 1300 that had been setting in storage for six years. I even had to reseal my fuel tank as there were rust spots in it. It now runs like it was just taken out of the crate except for the Factory Pro jet kit, the Barons BAK, and Cobra Speedsters. Set A/F screw at 1 and 1 quarter turns and it starts and runs like a scalded dog. I don't touch the choke AT ALL. This video was an integral part of successfully bringing my X back to life. Thanks for a truly well-done video.
Quick notes for myself and others, thanks for this, this is the least I could do :) 10:20 float and float stop 10:45 main and slow jet (7mm allen / flathead ) 11:30 pilot screw 13:35 choke 14:36 air cut off valve 15:42 accelerator pump 16:45 fuel screen / filter
@@footprintsinconc what’s your experience w motorcycle jobs like this I’m guessing u worked as a mechanic at a Honda/Harley dealership before?🔧 and if I get my carb “rebuild” by a bike shop along w a brand new carb kit is this exactly what they will be doing and the reason they charged me for the 2hrs of labor for the rebuild/clean?
@@lstruggy I'm a DIY person. not a mechanic. thank you for the i'm hoping any mechanic doing the job does with i did and maybe even better because they should be experts. i don't see why you need a rebuild kit. What is part of the rebuild kit? i just opened and cleaned out all the parts on my carb, didn't replace any item.
@@footprintsinconc i inherited 06 vtx1300r from my next door neighbor friend and bike hasn’t been ran in about a year in good condition w only 11k miles! Someone tried to steal fuel here in our apartments and cut fuel lines but they failed resulting in “little rust” inside the fuel tank and the carb needs to be “rebuilt” according to the Honda bike dealership. I’m a total noob when it comes to motorcycles and my plan is to sell her tax season or riding season February time and I want her to be in good working condition. So far I had Honda dealership did oil change, f&r brake line flushed, radiator flush and installed new fuel lines and it’s got a brand new battery she’s currently insured and title pink slip is arriving to me any moment. I’m $800 into this so far plus possibly the two work I mentioned above to be done early 2022. Was thinking of having a local shop here in Vegas reseal the fuel tank and rebuild the carb so I can get her in good working order when it’s time for me to sell her. Thank you for the reply and any advice would be awesome!
@@lstruggy it seems like you are on top of it. you've got it all covered so far. i'm sure the shop will take of you and get it in service. best of luck!
Well I’m a female rider. I’ve never done a carb. before so I’m using your video as a guide as soon as the replacement parts come in wish me luck. I have a 2004 Honda VTX 1300 c
@@footprintsinconc I did everything to the tee. The video you prepared was amazing but for some reason my bike still won’t start and I have a 2004 VTX 1300 see everything on this bike has been replaced except for the engine and the computer board and of course a carburetor. I’m so confused on what to do next
what is happening? what do mean by not starting? can you explain what is going on? what is the bike history? did it ever run with you, what happened that caused you to do this carb cleaning, etc? did you check for spark at the plugs? you can remove the plug wire, attach a spark plug to it and hold it to a ground with an insulated screw driver to see if each plug is firing for fuel: check the pet cock valve and ensure you are getting gas by removing the pipe to the carb. if that is ok. remove the air box, cover and back. have the carb just attached to the intake hose. 2nd open the screw at the bottom of the float bowl and ensure that gas is coming through. 3rd, if all that works, then twist the throttle and see if you get gas squirted through into the opening where the air enters 4th, ensure that there are no leaks in the intake pipe that attaches at each cylinder head and back of carb if you have a spark, fuel and no leak in the intake you are getting gas and air, and spark, then something should happen....i'm assuming it has compression in order to fire.
@@footprintsinconc We’ve only had the bike since June 5 and we’ve had everything replaced on the bike everything is brand new all the way to the bearings the forks and the seals about two weeks ago we got caught in a rainstorm and the air filter got wet because we have one of the cone shaped ones that come out off the bike and it sucked that water and it kept stalling and we finally had to get it towed home the next day it started with the filter off but then it started completely bogging down and every time we would get it to throttle up it would die and had to tow it again it hasn’t ran since it will turn over but it will not crank so that’s how I wound up doing the carburetor
When I say this bike has everything new it has everything new except the carburetor the engine and the computer box. It has new lights it has mostly new wiring it has new spark plugs new spark plug wires new petcock new filters it has every single thing new
I have recently learned after 50 years of owning Japanese bikes that those Philips screws are not Philips. They are JIS screws and slightly different. That is Japanese Industrial Standard and you can apparently buy JIS screwdrivers only I haven't found any other than on Amazon. Great video, thanks for the info.
Thank you so much. This is very good, very thorough, and well explained from start to finish. I really appreciate it. My VTX 1300 is leaking and gas coming out from the air filter. And it will bog out. I am going to follow your instruction to get this fix. Hope I would be able to get it fix.
So did i. Found her in Ohio. Hope all is going well I just had the carb cleaned, rear bearing and tire. New rear rotor and pads, new fluids all the way around, spark plugs(they had wrong plugs and fuel running for awhile) and new headlight and taillight’s. The guys at my local shop keep hinting to me to get a breather delete or reed valve delete not sure of exact name. Let me know how she’s going man
Appreciate your video, very informative, just got a VTX 13 that was sitting for a bit, have the rebuilt kit and waiting for a AF permanent adjustment jet/ rod from Glensvtx, I will watch your vid again when I get all the parts, Again, Thanks Man really helpful 👍
You don’t need that alternate spring on the choke. The choke has a pinch nut on the front that can be adjusted to apply tension to the shaft to keep it where you put it in or out. It is behind the rubber cover. Just grab the rubber cover and ring under it and tighten slightly to better hold the shaft in place.
Great video instruction and thanks for not playing some lame music in the background...;-) But I'm wondering why there was no gasket replacements or gasket rebuild kit link? Are new gaskets and seals not required??
thank you for kind words! the gaskets are not an issue majority of the time. you'll have to buy individual ones, if the ones you need are crushed, cracked or tearing up
Great detailed video, I have an 06 1300vtx, that I just got that after 3 days started hesitating and stalled out, I got it home and did some basic cleaning with the carb on the bike,just some basic jet cleaning,,,,,,it starts and idles, but when you put it into gear and start moiving, it hesitates and sputters with no throttle response,,, then stalls out, any ideas? I think my next step is to follow this video and do a complete cleaning like this one,,,TY
Thank you for your comment! i would start with complete clean out, after that make sure the carb settings are correct. i think this will fix all of these issues i think. Please help me out with the RUclips algorithms by liking and sharing and subscribing! Thx.
Hello interesting video and simple for the explanation. just one question please: after starting the engine without putting the air filter on the carburettor is it normal to have fire coming out of the carburettor after the accelerator, thank you.
Thanks for the great video. just got a 2007 1300c, while take off the carb, one problem I don't have the tool for 'pilot screw' removel. It looks a D-shape but don't know the size.
Hi, excellent job on filming and explaining everything in such details. I'm new to carb bikes and my 07 VTX 1300 cranks strong but it won't turn over. New spark plugs, cleaned carb, petcock working good, new battery, all fuel and vacuum lines in good shape. On the same day bike ran good before stalling have tried everything but no luck. Can a bad float needle valve cause this problem? Thank you in advance..
It can be - a bad peacock valve...no fuelngetting. Test to see if you suck on the vacuum pipe, does fuel flow out of the peacock? -no spark to plug. Check to see if you are getting spark to all 4 plugs Start with this and report bacj
Great video, thank you for your contribution! One question. The ACV and accelerator pump springs are very similiar. Which one goes where? One of them is slightly longer and stronger than the other.
Omg this carb rebuilt is ultra intricate 🤯 I’m getting my carb rebuild here at a local Vegas bike shop rebuild carb kit was $40 and the labor was $200 great video tho! Btw does all motorcycles carburetor generally work or function and or built similar like this vtx carb?
Thank you for the comment & question i'm hoping any mechanic doing the job does with i did and maybe even better because they should be experts. i don't see why you need a rebuild kit. What is part of the rebuild kit? i just opened and cleaned out all the parts on my carb, didn't replace any item. Please help out by liking and sharing the video! Thank you!
@@footprintsinconc it’s B07DVKB7PW $38 Tnx for the advice u saved me $38! I’ll just have them clean my carb and pass on the kit and btw the rebuild labor was $200 plus the kit but I have to rethink that now and the Honda dealership would reseal my fuel tank for $300 Usually they don’t do this work but the mechanic said he would make an exception instead of me shipping it out to a specialist shop in LA so these are the thing I gotta sort out early 2022! 😁
thank you for this amazing video! Now if i can find a decent aftermarket diaphragm replacement that doesnt cost 100 bucks id be golden, any suggestions? I'm assuming you cleaned the diaphragms with gas and let them air dry as to not rip them since old ? Should i rub a little clean engine oil on them to rehydrate them possibly or defeats the purpose of cleaning them?
about to tackle this in a few days, ill let you know if i have found one off ebay (scared) that fit and how it feels vs original because well....time will tell on the material @@footprintsinconc
they don't, you'll have some, but it stops. i put a rag under mine and bent the house upwards. you don't want to drain the radiator otherwise you will have to burp the system.
Thank you. You can get that tool from "glen vtx" website. Just Google it and you will find it. You can support his work. Good quality and support. You can also use a 0.223 mag, flatten it on one side and it will do the same. I got the tool from the factory pro rejet kit
I have 80K+ miles and recently moved. My bike sat for well over a year. Would not run. I'm rebuilding/cleaning and noticed my vacuum piston diaphragm has a couple small tears. I'm guessing I need to replace the rubber part. But do I have to buy the entire new piston with the rubber? OEM is over $100. Ebay for around $30. Love this video! Also, I tried to blow through the radiator connections but I couldn't. Do they get plugged?
Well with this many miles and the bike being so old you would have to buy what you can that's available at this point. If all that is available is the complete kit, I to get the complete kit and replace everything. As for all OEM versus something That is after market I would simply stick with the OEM for the carved parts. $100 is not bad for everything, Think of this as a brand new carb then While you are doing this you might as well drain and flush the coolant as well, I have A video for this. This way you can make sure that you take all of the hoses out and blow through them and make sure none of them are plugged and this will give you a chance to make sure that none of the joints our connection points are leaking
Good day, Is there any common tool you can use for the Air Fuel Mixture. You never really show the tip of that tool for the scree and I have no idea what it needs to screw and unscrew. I tried to look close, But even with my glasses on. I can not get a clue on what to use. Do I have to goto HONDA and buy buy that tool? Thanks again for all you have shared and helped.
Hi. So I have a factory pro het kit and it has a tool in there that you can use. But you need to buy a tool from this site: glensvtxgarage.com/airfuel-adjusting-tool You need to now tune that pilot screw...just follow the Honda instructions. Here is a good read on vtx carb by late Charlie D on the vtxcafe site www.vtxcafe.com/threads/carb-and-what-affects-what.45937/ the other think you can do is get some 0.22 caliber shell and bend hit a hammer on one end of the circular opening denting it...making a D shape. someone mentioned that in one of the post.
Your the Man. Thanks so much for all your help. Bike is running well without adjusting that screw. Just had old gas stuck in every nook and cranny. Thanks again. 👍🏼
option 1: A .223 shell casing flattened slightly on one side works well. option 2: Set-of-8 Carburetor Adjustment Tool Kit amzn.to/3CqI7SD option 3: Glens VTX Garage...tell him footprintsinconc sent you...it's the A/F fuel adjustment tool or the permanent mount A/F screw (great option) www.glensvtxgarage.com/airfuel-adjusting-tool
I followed everything and the disassembly and reassembly was fine. The only issue I have is that when I twist the throttle, the slider doesn't seem to move. Any ideas what's going on?
Any chance you can help me out. I got her running after following you instructions to clean her out. But she will not ideal at all. If I run at high RPM’s. No problem. When I took out that second injector screw in the float are. You did not show if they both were supposed to go strait through. I could not get a wire through the second one. Could that be my issue. You did not show that on your video. Or any other ideas on what to clean to get it to ideal. Thank you if you can help out.
watch at 10:54 i talk about flushing the main jet, and slow jet with carb cleaner fluid...both of them are supposed to be open on both ends...you should see light through them both if you held them up. which jet are you talking about? look at the 10:48, which hole from the bottom does it go in? bottom hole is for the stop that is attached to the float, the next one up is for the main jet (at the larger throttle positions) and then the 3rd hole up is for the slow jet at idle. if you think that both are good and open, then all you might need to do is set/adjust your the pilot screw and throttle speed that will keep you bike running with no throttle. i hope that this helps.
@@footprintsinconc Thank you so much. I do not have light through the pilot Jet from end to end, I will go back and remove it and see if I can drill the blockage out. I can not get it to ideal to save my my life. Been at if for 3 plus hours and its ruff. Thanks agian. I will look at your video agian.
I pulled here back apart and sure enough I was able to finally will allot of effort clear a hole through and through on that jet. Don’t know if it helped because while I was searching for more info and writing you. I left the F in battery on and it’s dead as hell know. So it’s a waiting game again. Thanks again. I’ll let you know if I am successful thanks 🙏
You are the man. Not the man sitting next to the man? Not the man sitting next to that man? But the man.👍🏼. She is purring like a kitten thanks to you. Have a beer on me buddy I really appreciate it.! Have a great great riding season. God bless you
@@cryptopirate1519 it makes me happy to see that i've been of use today. Thank you for the very kind words. please make sure to like, even more importantly share and please do subscribe to my channel. this will help me out. cheers.
Did you open the carb and clean it up? Did you see if any of the rubber parts had deteriorated? If yes, the buy a replacement kit and replace all gaskets to ensure gas doesn't just flow through. Then adjust you carb to the initial setting per manual and adjust from there. This way you won't get too much gas going into engine. Don't run the engine on gas diluted oil. It'll wear out all the bearing and sliding surfaces...ensure that you put new oil in it.
had got flooded in a rainstorm and we remove the carburetor had the carburetor completely cleaned and rebuilt. We put the car back on and now it’s still not wanting to crank like either it’s getting too much air or not enough turns, and when I tried to start it yesterday, it shot a little spark outside of the carburetor. I’ve spent so much money on this bike. Im broke. She has sat more than driven. HELP
sorry to hear about this. I would just go through and make sure that all connections, pipes and everything is tight, nothing is loose and fits as it should. if you are confident about the carb rebuild and that nothing needs to be verified there, then you should be good. did you follow the link in the description to go and try to adjust the carb setting to get the bike started?
After installing the cleaned carburetor, it helps fuel bowl is going to be empty. So you will need to turn the throttle handle a couple time before you start the bike.
My trottle does not snap back like yours. I put everything back . Bike starts and runs fine but trottle is hard to turn. I messed with the cable nut on carb but i cant get it right. ???
so the inner cable (shorter) is the one that pull on the throttle, the other side brings the throttle back. check the routing of the cable...especially in that horizontal clip under the tank where the two cables sit, make sure they aren't crossed or overlapping, so that cable housing isn't pushed in crimping the cable thus making the throttle hard to turn. follow the cable up and down to ensure proper placement ... any impingement will causing the hard feeling. once you've fixed that hard cable pull, then you'll be able to adjust the cable bearing at the carb to get it to snap back and have proper end play.
i assume you mean you have oil and fuel in the air box...not coming from the carb itself. oil can't come from the carb. the vtx has air filter box has a crankcase breather outlet. you could be getting pretty severe blow by from combustion in one or both you cylinders to push oil into the air box...i haven't heard of that. as for fuel in the air box...i would remove the carb and clean it out and put it back...could be many reasons. this would ensure its all clean. then you would have to follow instructions on turning the carb so that the bike does not run lean or too rich.
@@footprintsinconc it runs fine. I just put it away for winter and noticed wetness around bottom of carb and oil on left side of motorcycle seeping down from around the carb. But it ran fine all summer
With this video as my guide, I rebuilt my carb on my 07 1300 that had been setting in storage for six years. I even had to reseal my fuel tank as there were rust spots in it. It now runs like it was just taken out of the crate except for the Factory Pro jet kit, the Barons BAK, and Cobra Speedsters. Set A/F screw at 1 and 1 quarter turns and it starts and runs like a scalded dog. I don't touch the choke AT ALL. This video was an integral part of successfully bringing my X back to life. Thanks for a truly well-done video.
Thank you for the kind words! I'm glad to be of help.
Please help me out by liking and sharing. Thx!
Quick notes for myself and others, thanks for this, this is the least I could do :)
10:20 float and float stop
10:45 main and slow jet (7mm allen / flathead )
11:30 pilot screw
13:35 choke
14:36 air cut off valve
15:42 accelerator pump
16:45 fuel screen / filter
Thank you!!!
Hands down the best carb video for vtx. Thanks for making this video, really saved the day for me. Step by step with details was perfect.
Wow, thanks! Really appreciate it.
Please help me out by liking and sharing. Thx!
@@footprintsinconc what’s your experience w motorcycle jobs like this I’m guessing u worked as a mechanic at a Honda/Harley dealership before?🔧 and if I get my carb “rebuild” by a bike shop along w a brand new carb kit is this exactly what they will be doing and the reason they charged me for the 2hrs of labor for the rebuild/clean?
@@lstruggy I'm a DIY person. not a mechanic. thank you for the
i'm hoping any mechanic doing the job does with i did and maybe even better because they should be experts.
i don't see why you need a rebuild kit. What is part of the rebuild kit?
i just opened and cleaned out all the parts on my carb, didn't replace any item.
@@footprintsinconc i inherited 06 vtx1300r from my next door neighbor friend and bike hasn’t been ran in about a year in good condition w only 11k miles! Someone tried to steal fuel here in our apartments and cut fuel lines but they failed resulting in “little rust” inside the fuel tank and the carb needs to be “rebuilt” according to the Honda bike dealership. I’m a total noob when it comes to motorcycles and my plan is to sell her tax season or riding season February time and I want her to be in good working condition. So far I had Honda dealership did oil change, f&r brake line flushed, radiator flush and installed new fuel lines and it’s got a brand new battery she’s currently insured and title pink slip is arriving to me any moment. I’m $800 into this so far plus possibly the two work I mentioned above to be done early 2022. Was thinking of having a local shop here in Vegas reseal the fuel tank and rebuild the carb so I can get her in good working order when it’s time for me to sell her. Thank you for the reply and any advice would be awesome!
@@lstruggy it seems like you are on top of it. you've got it all covered so far.
i'm sure the shop will take of you and get it in service. best of luck!
One of if not the best how to videos I've seen...that goes for any project!!!
Great job!!!
Thank you.!!!
Well I’m a female rider. I’ve never done a carb. before so I’m using your video as a guide as soon as the replacement parts come in wish me luck. I have a 2004 Honda VTX 1300 c
Hi! I feel honored and glad to hear that you feel confident to give this a shot after watching my vdieo.
You'll do just fine! Good Luck!
@@footprintsinconc I did everything to the tee. The video you prepared was amazing but for some reason my bike still won’t start and I have a 2004 VTX 1300 see everything on this bike has been replaced except for the engine and the computer board and of course a carburetor. I’m so confused on what to do next
what is happening? what do mean by not starting? can you explain what is going on?
what is the bike history? did it ever run with you, what happened that caused you to do this carb cleaning, etc?
did you check for spark at the plugs?
you can remove the plug wire, attach a spark plug to it and hold it to a ground with an insulated screw driver to see if each plug is firing
for fuel:
check the pet cock valve and ensure you are getting gas by removing the pipe to the carb.
if that is ok. remove the air box, cover and back. have the carb just attached to the intake hose.
2nd open the screw at the bottom of the float bowl and ensure that gas is coming through.
3rd, if all that works, then twist the throttle and see if you get gas squirted through into the opening where the air enters
4th, ensure that there are no leaks in the intake pipe that attaches at each cylinder head and back of carb
if you have a spark, fuel and no leak in the intake you are getting gas and air, and spark, then something should happen....i'm assuming it has compression in order to fire.
@@footprintsinconc We’ve only had the bike since June 5 and we’ve had everything replaced on the bike everything is brand new all the way to the bearings the forks and the seals about two weeks ago we got caught in a rainstorm and the air filter got wet because we have one of the cone shaped ones that come out off the bike and it sucked that water and it kept stalling and we finally had to get it towed home the next day it started with the filter off but then it started completely bogging down and every time we would get it to throttle up it would die and had to tow it again it hasn’t ran since it will turn over but it will not crank so that’s how I wound up doing the carburetor
When I say this bike has everything new it has everything new except the carburetor the engine and the computer box. It has new lights it has mostly new wiring it has new spark plugs new spark plug wires new petcock new filters it has every single thing new
I have recently learned after 50 years of owning Japanese bikes that those Philips screws are not Philips. They are JIS screws and slightly different. That is Japanese Industrial Standard and you can apparently buy JIS screwdrivers only I haven't found any other than on Amazon. Great video, thanks for the info.
Thank you!
Please be sure to share and 👍🏽
Thank you so much. This is very good, very thorough, and well explained from start to finish. I really appreciate it. My VTX 1300 is leaking and gas coming out from the air filter. And it will bog out. I am going to follow your instruction to get this fix. Hope I would be able to get it fix.
Thank you! I hope you'll find it easy when you do this and let us know how it went.
Please share and like 🙏🏽
You're a legend! Thank you. I just got a neglected vtx 1300, this helped a ton.
thank you for the kind words! I'm glad to hear that your rescued a bike and it running again.
So did i. Found her in Ohio. Hope all is going well I just had the carb cleaned, rear bearing and tire. New rear rotor and pads, new fluids all the way around, spark plugs(they had wrong plugs and fuel running for awhile) and new headlight and taillight’s. The guys at my local shop keep hinting to me to get a breather delete or reed valve delete not sure of exact name. Let me know how she’s going man
Appreciate your video, very informative, just got a VTX 13 that was sitting for a bit, have the rebuilt kit and waiting for a AF permanent adjustment jet/ rod from Glensvtx, I will watch your vid again when I get all the parts, Again, Thanks Man really helpful 👍
you are welcome :)
You don’t need that alternate spring on the choke. The choke has a pinch nut on the front that can be adjusted to apply tension to the shaft to keep it where you put it in or out. It is behind the rubber cover. Just grab the rubber cover and ring under it and tighten slightly to better hold the shaft in place.
you are right, but it has gotten stuck for other before. so having the heavier spring just ensures that it will never get stuck
Great video instruction and thanks for not playing some lame music in the background...;-) But I'm wondering why there was no gasket replacements or gasket rebuild kit link? Are new gaskets and seals not required??
thank you for kind words!
the gaskets are not an issue majority of the time.
you'll have to buy individual ones, if the ones you need are crushed, cracked or tearing up
Great detailed video, I have an 06 1300vtx, that I just got that after 3 days started hesitating and stalled out, I got it home and did some basic cleaning with the carb on the bike,just some basic jet cleaning,,,,,,it starts and idles, but when you put it into gear and start moiving, it hesitates and sputters with no throttle response,,, then stalls out, any ideas? I think my next step is to follow this video and do a complete cleaning like this one,,,TY
Thank you for your comment!
i would start with complete clean out, after that make sure the carb settings are correct. i think this will fix all of these issues i think.
Please help me out with the RUclips algorithms by liking and sharing and subscribing! Thx.
Thank you very much.great video nice and clear and you explained everything really good, best I've seen,!👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
You're welcome! Glad I was able to help.
Please help me out with the youtube algorithms by liking, sharing and subscribing. Thanks
Hello interesting video and simple for the explanation.
just one question please: after starting the engine without putting the air filter on the carburettor is it normal to have fire coming out of the carburettor after the accelerator, thank you.
Hi. I don't think that is normal at all.
all videos seem too prefer pro jet kit other kit makers seem too give people problems if anyone is interested thanks for in depth video
Thanks for the great video. just got a 2007 1300c, while take off the carb, one problem I don't have the tool for 'pilot screw' removel. It looks a D-shape but don't know the size.
You are welcome!
Check out the video description, all the info is listed there!
Excellent, excellent video and excellent explanation. AAA+++
Thank you for the comment!
Hi, excellent job on filming and explaining everything in such details. I'm new to carb bikes and my 07 VTX 1300 cranks strong but it won't turn over. New spark plugs, cleaned carb, petcock working good, new battery, all fuel and vacuum lines in good shape. On the same day bike ran good before stalling have tried everything but no luck. Can a bad float needle valve cause this problem? Thank you in advance..
It can be
- a bad peacock valve...no fuelngetting. Test to see if you suck on the vacuum pipe, does fuel flow out of the peacock?
-no spark to plug. Check to see if you are getting spark to all 4 plugs
Start with this and report bacj
Great video, thank you for your contribution! One question. The ACV and accelerator pump springs are very similiar. Which one goes where? One of them is slightly longer and stronger than the other.
how different are they in length?
i'd image the acc pump, because it's got the longer needle?
Whats the little tool your using for the air filer screw??
see the description....all the info is there.
Omg this carb rebuilt is ultra intricate 🤯 I’m getting my carb rebuild here at a local Vegas bike shop rebuild carb kit was $40 and the labor was $200 great video tho! Btw does all motorcycles carburetor generally work or function and or built similar like this vtx carb?
Thank you for the comment & question
i'm hoping any mechanic doing the job does with i did and maybe even better because they should be experts.
i don't see why you need a rebuild kit. What is part of the rebuild kit?
i just opened and cleaned out all the parts on my carb, didn't replace any item.
Please help out by liking and sharing the video! Thank you!
@@footprintsinconc it’s B07DVKB7PW $38 Tnx for the advice u saved me $38! I’ll just have them clean my carb and pass on the kit and btw the rebuild labor was $200 plus the kit but I have to rethink that now and the Honda dealership would reseal my fuel tank for $300 Usually they don’t do this work but the mechanic said he would make an exception instead of me shipping it out to a specialist shop in LA so these are the thing I gotta sort out early 2022! 😁
thank you for this amazing video! Now if i can find a decent aftermarket diaphragm replacement that doesnt cost 100 bucks id be golden, any suggestions? I'm assuming you cleaned the diaphragms with gas and let them air dry as to not rip them since old ? Should i rub a little clean engine oil on them to rehydrate them possibly or defeats the purpose of cleaning them?
sorry, i can't help you there. i too haven't been able to source one.
about to tackle this in a few days, ill let you know if i have found one off ebay (scared) that fit and how it feels vs original because well....time will tell on the material @@footprintsinconc
best video ive seen
What happens when you pull off the radiator lines?? Do they drip fluid and if so should you not drain the radiator?
they don't, you'll have some, but it stops. i put a rag under mine and bent the house upwards.
you don't want to drain the radiator otherwise you will have to burp the system.
Great video! What is the name of the D tool used to do the air screw adjustment and where can I buy the exact one youre using?
Thank you. You can get that tool from "glen vtx" website. Just Google it and you will find it. You can support his work. Good quality and support.
You can also use a 0.223 mag, flatten it on one side and it will do the same.
I got the tool from the factory pro rejet kit
I have 80K+ miles and recently moved. My bike sat for well over a year. Would not run. I'm rebuilding/cleaning and noticed my vacuum piston diaphragm has a couple small tears. I'm guessing I need to replace the rubber part. But do I have to buy the entire new piston with the rubber? OEM is over $100. Ebay for around $30. Love this video! Also, I tried to blow through the radiator connections but I couldn't. Do they get plugged?
Well with this many miles and the bike being so old you would have to buy what you can that's available at this point. If all that is available is the complete kit, I to get the complete kit and replace everything.
As for all OEM versus something That is after market I would simply stick with the OEM for the carved parts. $100 is not bad for everything, Think of this as a brand new carb then
While you are doing this you might as well drain and flush the coolant as well, I have A video for this. This way you can make sure that you take all of the hoses out and blow through them and make sure none of them are plugged and this will give you a chance to make sure that none of the joints our connection points are leaking
ruclips.net/video/U7wv_PlpwBE/видео.html
Will coolant flow from those hoses when disconnecting them?
My AF screw is set to 2.5 turns, this normal?
Good day, Is there any common tool you can use for the Air Fuel Mixture. You never really show the tip of that tool for the scree and I have no idea what it needs to screw and unscrew. I tried to look close, But even with my glasses on. I can not get a clue on what to use. Do I have to goto HONDA and buy buy that tool? Thanks again for all you have shared and helped.
Hi. So I have a factory pro het kit and it has a tool in there that you can use. But you need to buy a tool from this site: glensvtxgarage.com/airfuel-adjusting-tool
You need to now tune that pilot screw...just follow the Honda instructions.
Here is a good read on vtx carb by late Charlie D on the vtxcafe site
www.vtxcafe.com/threads/carb-and-what-affects-what.45937/
the other think you can do is get some 0.22 caliber shell and bend hit a hammer on one end of the circular opening denting it...making a D shape. someone mentioned that in one of the post.
Your the Man. Thanks so much for all your help. Bike is running well without adjusting that screw. Just had old gas stuck in every nook and cranny. Thanks again. 👍🏼
i cannot seem to find the pilot screw tool that you use and the one i did find doesnt work at all. can you provide a link or part number for it. TIA
option 1: A .223 shell casing flattened slightly on one side works well.
option 2: Set-of-8 Carburetor Adjustment Tool Kit
amzn.to/3CqI7SD
option 3: Glens VTX Garage...tell him footprintsinconc sent you...it's the A/F fuel adjustment tool or the permanent mount A/F screw (great option)
www.glensvtxgarage.com/airfuel-adjusting-tool
спасибо за инструкцию мужик!
с уважением из России:)
Thank you! Please share and like 🙏🏽
I followed everything and the disassembly and reassembly was fine. The only issue I have is that when I twist the throttle, the slider doesn't seem to move. Any ideas what's going on?
just make sure the cable shouldn't be restricted or kinked or the route has a tight bend (may not look tight to you, but it's tight for the cable).
where to get the pilot screw removal tool?
the info is given in the description section...GlenVTX
Hello, where did you get the long tool for the air/fuel - adjustment/removal? Thanks Greg
Glens VTX Garage. The link is in the description below the video
@@footprintsinconc I went ahead and bought the kit so I could adjust it easier and it worked great.
@@greglee1846 make sure you give my reference when you buy from Glen :)
Great video!!!
Any chance you can help me out. I got her running after following you instructions to clean her out. But she will not ideal at all. If I run at high RPM’s. No problem. When I took out that second injector screw in the float are. You did not show if they both were supposed to go strait through. I could not get a wire through the second one. Could that be my issue. You did not show that on your video. Or any other ideas on what to clean to get it to ideal. Thank you if you can help out.
watch at 10:54 i talk about flushing the main jet, and slow jet with carb cleaner fluid...both of them are supposed to be open on both ends...you should see light through them both if you held them up. which jet are you talking about?
look at the 10:48, which hole from the bottom does it go in? bottom hole is for the stop that is attached to the float, the next one up is for the main jet (at the larger throttle positions) and then the 3rd hole up is for the slow jet at idle.
if you think that both are good and open, then all you might need to do is set/adjust your the pilot screw and throttle speed that will keep you bike running with no throttle.
i hope that this helps.
@@footprintsinconc Thank you so much. I do not have light through the pilot Jet from end to end, I will go back and remove it and see if I can drill the blockage out. I can not get it to ideal to save my my life. Been at if for 3 plus hours and its ruff. Thanks agian. I will look at your video agian.
I pulled here back apart and sure enough I was able to finally will allot of effort clear a hole through and through on that jet. Don’t know if it helped because while I was searching for more info and writing you. I left the F in battery on and it’s dead as hell know. So it’s a waiting game again. Thanks again. I’ll let you know if I am successful thanks 🙏
You are the man. Not the man sitting next to the man? Not the man sitting next to that man? But the man.👍🏼. She is purring like a kitten thanks to you. Have a beer on me buddy I really appreciate it.! Have a great great riding season. God bless you
@@cryptopirate1519 it makes me happy to see that i've been of use today. Thank you for the very kind words.
please make sure to like, even more importantly share and please do subscribe to my channel. this will help me out. cheers.
How can I contact you? I need help with my carb. It seems gas is going to the engine😢
Did you open the carb and clean it up?
Did you see if any of the rubber parts had deteriorated? If yes, the buy a replacement kit and replace all gaskets to ensure gas doesn't just flow through.
Then adjust you carb to the initial setting per manual and adjust from there.
This way you won't get too much gas going into engine.
Don't run the engine on gas diluted oil. It'll wear out all the bearing and sliding surfaces...ensure that you put new oil in it.
Thank you !
You're welcome!
Excellent
Thanks you!
Anyone know where I can purchase the Pilot screw tool?
Check out the video description, all the info is listed there!
thank you
your welcome!
please share and like. Thank you!
good job my friend ,,, greetings
thank you! Please like, share and subscribe to help me build up my channel.
great video .
Thank you for the kind words! I'm glad to be of help.
Please help me out with the algorithms by liking and sharing. Thx!
had got flooded in a rainstorm and we remove the carburetor had the carburetor completely cleaned and rebuilt. We put the car back on and now it’s still not wanting to crank like either it’s getting too much air or not enough turns, and when I tried to start it yesterday, it shot a little spark outside of the carburetor. I’ve spent so much money on this bike. Im broke. She has sat more than driven. HELP
sorry to hear about this.
I would just go through and make sure that all connections, pipes and everything is tight, nothing is loose and fits as it should.
if you are confident about the carb rebuild and that nothing needs to be verified there, then you should be good.
did you follow the link in the description to go and try to adjust the carb setting to get the bike started?
Do you have to prime the carburetor?
After installing the cleaned carburetor, it helps fuel bowl is going to be empty. So you will need to turn the throttle handle a couple time before you start the bike.
the tool is at 11:39 in the video.
See the answer in your other comment.
My trottle does not snap back like yours. I put everything back . Bike starts and runs fine but trottle is hard to turn. I messed with the cable nut on carb but i cant get it right. ???
so the inner cable (shorter) is the one that pull on the throttle, the other side brings the throttle back.
check the routing of the cable...especially in that horizontal clip under the tank where the two cables sit, make sure they aren't crossed or overlapping, so that cable housing isn't pushed in crimping the cable thus making the throttle hard to turn. follow the cable up and down to ensure proper placement ... any impingement will causing the hard feeling.
once you've fixed that hard cable pull, then you'll be able to adjust the cable bearing at the carb to get it to snap back and have proper end play.
Informative
Thank you!
My 04 vtx1300r is leaking oil and fuel from carb?? What could it be. It has 42k miles
i assume you mean you have oil and fuel in the air box...not coming from the carb itself. oil can't come from the carb.
the vtx has air filter box has a crankcase breather outlet. you could be getting pretty severe blow by from combustion in one or both you cylinders to push oil into the air box...i haven't heard of that.
as for fuel in the air box...i would remove the carb and clean it out and put it back...could be many reasons. this would ensure its all clean. then you would have to follow instructions on turning the carb so that the bike does not run lean or too rich.
@@footprintsinconc it runs fine. I just put it away for winter and noticed wetness around bottom of carb and oil on left side of motorcycle seeping down from around the carb. But it ran fine all summer
Very nice. Thanks!
thank you!