My biggest hesitation with 3d printing has been including external parts (screw, magnets etc). I just recently tried to include open face magnets for a stronger bond than embeded and was bummed when the fit was wrong and demoralized to try again. But your vid helped me a lot! I learned offset face (I thought you could only do it in the sketch), snap midpoint (my locator tabs were somehow off-center lol) and I'm actually pretty eager to try the embeded threads you made it so simple. You got my like and subscription thanks for the hope and info!
There's a file on Printables called "Heat Set Insert Press" by Adafruit that will set you up for making sure that your inserts are reliably perpendicular to the part.
Liked the video, lots of good stuff in it. I would suggest using a mechanical dial vernier caliper or a mechanical micrometer for measuring the magnets, though. If you place the magnets anywhere near the scale on the electronic vernier calipers, you will disrupt the magnetic grid the sensor uses to measure the distance between the blades of the caliper and you wind up with a very expensive low strength clamp instead of an accurate electronic vernier caliper...
I recently tried Cura instead of Prusaslicer, and noted a huge improvement on the surface texture and reduced stringing. My printer is a SV06 Plus, which I believe borrows heavily from Prusa MK3. Might be worth a try.
I usually leave my printer alone when it prints, so if I add a pause and I don't notice right away would it be bad if the printed layers cool down before I resume the print?
Great video. Have you ever used embedded hex nuts ? These would be hidden in a hexagonal pocket like the magnets but with only a through hole. I’ve seen someone use them and it seemed like a good substitute for the special inserts.
Yeah I have! There’s a challenge with them though in that if you truly embedded it into the part the bridge layer above it will need a circle. The way slicers work it’s going to try and print a circle into mid air. The way around that would be to leave a slot and insert them like Prusa does on their machines. I wouldn’t call it a substitute, but it can totally be a good way to attach parts together!
Thx. After I asked this I found the older video where CNC Kitchen tested a few three of tons inc Using inserts and nuts. I think I’ll order a set of the inserts from his site.
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You're working in millimeters! What a relief!
My biggest hesitation with 3d printing has been including external parts (screw, magnets etc). I just recently tried to include open face magnets for a stronger bond than embeded and was bummed when the fit was wrong and demoralized to try again. But your vid helped me a lot! I learned offset face (I thought you could only do it in the sketch), snap midpoint (my locator tabs were somehow off-center lol) and I'm actually pretty eager to try the embeded threads you made it so simple. You got my like and subscription thanks for the hope and info!
There's a file on Printables called "Heat Set Insert Press" by Adafruit that will set you up for making sure that your inserts are reliably perpendicular to the part.
Just found your channel, great content :) Hope you will post more of these videos
Excellent information. Glad the video got put in my feed. I subscribed
Liked the video, lots of good stuff in it. I would suggest using a mechanical dial vernier caliper or a mechanical micrometer for measuring the magnets, though. If you place the magnets anywhere near the scale on the electronic vernier calipers, you will disrupt the magnetic grid the sensor uses to measure the distance between the blades of the caliper and you wind up with a very expensive low strength clamp instead of an accurate electronic vernier caliper...
Great Vid. Thank you!
very nice video!!!! and most of all useful.
Nice! I love your breakdown.
I recently tried Cura instead of Prusaslicer, and noted a huge improvement on the surface texture and reduced stringing. My printer is a SV06 Plus, which I believe borrows heavily from Prusa MK3. Might be worth a try.
I know Cura uses a different set of algorithms because it’s not based on Slic3r, but there’s just no way I move away from Slic3r based programs.
Great video. Thanks for getting the background music volume just right. Maybe you can do some tutorials on Prusa Slicer in the future?
Sure, anything in particular?
So simple and efficient way to share your best practices. Great!
Are you going to build a special mechanism to insert thread more accurately?
So I found a nice script that creates much better threads! I was going to make a video on that at some point
Polarity is an issue had that paused work. Just by chance found this vid. Thanks.
..... buttery smooth 👍👍😎👍👍
Excellent
I usually leave my printer alone when it prints, so if I add a pause and I don't notice right away would it be bad if the printed layers cool down before I resume the print?
Great video.
Have you ever used embedded hex nuts ? These would be hidden in a hexagonal pocket like the magnets but with only a through hole. I’ve seen someone use them and it seemed like a good substitute for the special inserts.
Yeah I have! There’s a challenge with them though in that if you truly embedded it into the part the bridge layer above it will need a circle. The way slicers work it’s going to try and print a circle into mid air. The way around that would be to leave a slot and insert them like Prusa does on their machines. I wouldn’t call it a substitute, but it can totally be a good way to attach parts together!
Thx. After I asked this I found the older video where CNC Kitchen tested a few three of tons inc
Using inserts and nuts.
I think I’ll order a set of the inserts from his site.
9:36 "I know that the BLUE SIDE goes in DOWN in the BOTTOM side of the parts, and then the BLUE SIDE goes UP, in the TOP side of the parts."