Every hole counts! Every hole is a place for water to condense. I started to wire houses at 12 years old with father & grandfather, both electrical inspectors. This is the first time I ever heard an electrician call out a one wire one hole approach. Usually air sealing is someone else's problem. I will adopt this into my best practices. Thanks Steven!
Pointer from this electrician, me, don't drill holes next to the edge of the stud. The first four were too close to the edge and might catch a screw when drywalled. also makes the stud weak.
Met you at Toronto BS&Beer , forgot to let you know how well the digital whiteboard fits your format ! Your use of it seems so natural and it allows for a much greater clarity in your presentations . Looking forward to more .
Aircraft manufacturers solved a problem similar to this by making fittings that have internal structures that separate the individual wires so that sealant can fill all the voids. They're not complicated, and I sense a market here...
I liked your explanation and especially the analogy about the open window in winter in MN. That’s where I am from. I noticed one comment about fire caulk. It doesn’t take much place for flame to got through and do the chimney effect.
So simple an alteration to a normal process to get a superior result. Hmmm...that makes me think now of the roof top penetrations from air conditioner units - which have been plaguing me for years...with water leakage. ...and subscribed.
Only the second one is NEC 300-4 compliant - 1-1/4" from edge of stud First one is too close to both inside and outside edges. Nail plates woukd be required on both sides and the sheathing is already up. Siding nails can pierce wires as well. Love these short subject videos.
My elderly parents live in northern Michigan. They heat their old 1920 farmhouse with two wood stoves. Many of their windows remain open most of the winter.
I thought aeroseal was for small gaps, not for when you might have some 12/2 cable in a 3/4" or 1" hole. What happens if bugs or mice interact with those wispy little aeroseal particles?
Or you could make a double ceiling with metal rails. Ok it’s costly but it works. Or you could make an electrical “manifold” of some sort and route the wires through that. There are many different solutions other than drilling holes.
I like the one wire/whole concept, makes sense in air sealing. My question is in given situations where you have multiple wires, couldn't you use a conduit tube, & run all the wires in that then seal around the outside? Or would that still be an air leakage point now due to the interior of the conduit not being sealed?
I reckon unless you have a way of sealing where they each go into the conduit, you're still going to have a problem. "One wire, one hole" into the conduit might do it, but at that point, what has the conduit saved you?
@@tealkerberus748 It was shortly after I had written the comment that I realized the sealing on the conduit issue as well. I'm thinking of future expansion or retrofitting , but that's really getting ahead of oneself. Planning ahead so there's only the need for one wire one hole is the best solution.
@@ericscott3997If you think you're going to need extra electric cables later, it'd be cheaper to get them installed while you're building. But if you're planning some expensive high-grade speaker cables or data cables as a future upgrade, putting the conduit through the wall and sealing it at the timber would be valid - while it's empty you just need a simple end cap to seal it. You still need one conduit per cable, but having the conduit there saves ripping the wall apart to install the extra cables.
If flexseal is not "listed" for use on wires, your may ruin your wires and have to replace them to pass inspection. Why not use the right stuff: 3M Fire Barrier Sealant CP 25WB+, says me: BrickSaver LLC.
I have recently discovered your videos. I like them a lot. However, I think/feel we are building our houses too airtight. I live in central BC, Canada and we always leave our bedroom window open at night. So the sealing of the wiring is moot. The only time we actually make sure our windows are closed is during the summer when trying to avoid high internal house temperatures from the sun. We don't have air conditioning and often our daytime outside air temps are 35 to 40 degrees celsius. (90 to 104 F) If we make our houses too tight then we need to spend thousands of dollars on an air to air heat exchanger and worry if there is a power failure how will it affect the moisture and mold in the household air. Naturally filters too as there MAY be airborne organisms harmful to your health. Of course we will have to pay the additional electrical cost for the air exchanger to run continuously. Whatever happened to the idea of a naturally breathing and healthy house like we used to build years ago?
Certain building materials need to breathe to release trapped moisture, but the idea of leaving random gaps for air, moisture, dust, pollen, bugs, flames, etc. to rise up in your structure is bad, or foolish, no offense, says me, BrickSaver LLC. Use red fire caulk to seal around wires, not that pink foam which is mostly messy junk.
If keeping your window open makes sense in the winter, for breathability, shouldn't you keep your windows open in the summer too? Or are you not worried about indoor air quality in the summer?
@@user-vt9fi7fz1k Actually we do keep the window open in the summer. However only at night to take advantage of the cooling effect. I'm not concerned about indoor air quality as my house is an older house. It's not one of the new sealed tight houses. I don't think I would buy one of them as I would be concerned about indoor air quality.
My current house works on the wide-open-window theory. My next house is going to work on the I'm-tired-of-dust-and-hayfever theory. I'm used to living off grid, and the extra solar panels to power the air exchanger won't cost a fraction of what my current array cost me fifteen years ago. No mildew, no dust, no hayfever, and being able to keep the house warm all winter ... count me in!
@@tealkerberus748 That is what I'm building right now. I have seasonal allergies, I live in a rural area, I see the million of bugs out there ready to go into a warm area. I would rather spend a bit more on a HRV than having to breathe pollen, dust, and share my home with million of bugs.
Panel is usually in the garage on the far outside wall. It's unconditioned space. You'll have the same problem there. Why not move the panel inside the envelope you ask? Because it creates new problems. Undecided with Matt Ferrell tried this approach on his own home and recommends against it due to the unexpected complexity it caused with working with the utility company.
I’m loving the daily classroom with my morning coffee! Just a few minutes to focus on a specific detail👍. You have got me thinking! Thanks!
One hole option works if your using fire caulk too
Every hole counts! Every hole is a place for water to condense. I started to wire houses at 12 years old with father & grandfather, both electrical inspectors. This is the first time I ever heard an electrician call out a one wire one hole approach. Usually air sealing is someone else's problem. I will adopt this into my best practices. Thanks Steven!
Planning on building a new house. The build show is a savior for details and eduacating what to expect and look for.
Pointer from this electrician, me, don't drill holes next to the edge of the stud. The first four were too close to the edge and might catch a screw when drywalled. also makes the stud weak.
This demands a wingnut test! Can you get Peter to mock this up in his”lab” and quantify how much leakage actually occurs with various configurations?
Met you at Toronto BS&Beer , forgot to let you know how well the digital whiteboard fits your format ! Your use of it seems so natural and it allows for a much greater clarity in your presentations . Looking forward to more .
Aircraft manufacturers solved a problem similar to this by making fittings that have internal structures that separate the individual wires so that sealant can fill all the voids. They're not complicated, and I sense a market here...
I liked your explanation and especially the analogy about the open window in winter in MN. That’s where I am from. I noticed one comment about fire caulk. It doesn’t take much place for flame to got through and do the chimney effect.
3:00 This electrician only learned the one-wire-per-hole rule after he had finished drilling the hole on the right.
So simple an alteration to a normal process to get a superior result.
Hmmm...that makes me think now of the roof top penetrations from air conditioner units - which have been plaguing me for years...with water leakage.
...and subscribed.
I've just found your channel. Thanks for this content. I'm learning from this format.
Only the second one is NEC 300-4 compliant - 1-1/4" from edge of stud First one is too close to both inside and outside edges. Nail plates woukd be required on both sides and the sheathing is already up. Siding nails can pierce wires as well. Love these short subject videos.
I love this! It helps a lot to show what has been done wrong and how to do it right. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
we need a meme of sean conery saying, "one wire, and one hole only"
My elderly parents live in northern Michigan. They heat their old 1920 farmhouse with two wood stoves. Many of their windows remain open most of the winter.
It seems the preponderance of builders who care are in New England.
How brilliant!
Does the one wire one hole apply as well when dealing with exterior penetrations ? E.g. outdoor power, pipes, AC coil, if they are grouped together?
Good luck getting your electrician to do this.
Got me convinced!
How would you address several separate Thhn wires run down through the top plate in emt conduit to the boxes?
Makes sense!
You could also aeroseal the home to take care of those tight spots
I thought aeroseal was for small gaps, not for when you might have some 12/2 cable in a 3/4" or 1" hole. What happens if bugs or mice interact with those wispy little aeroseal particles?
@@camheady235 key word was "tight spots" but I'm sure it will work with those penetrations as well. I would contact them.
@@camheady235 seals up to 1/2 inch according to website
#stevenbaczekarchitect is this a vented or non-vented (conditioned) attic?
Makes complete sense to me. But then again, common sense is a flower that doesn't grow in everybody's garden.
Or you could make a double ceiling with metal rails. Ok it’s costly but it works. Or you could make an electrical “manifold” of some sort and route the wires through that. There are many different solutions other than drilling holes.
I like the one wire/whole concept, makes sense in air sealing. My question is in given situations where you have multiple wires, couldn't you use a conduit tube, & run all the wires in that then seal around the outside? Or would that still be an air leakage point now due to the interior of the conduit not being sealed?
I reckon unless you have a way of sealing where they each go into the conduit, you're still going to have a problem. "One wire, one hole" into the conduit might do it, but at that point, what has the conduit saved you?
@@tealkerberus748 It was shortly after I had written the comment that I realized the sealing on the conduit issue as well. I'm thinking of future expansion or retrofitting , but that's really getting ahead of oneself. Planning ahead so there's only the need for one wire one hole is the best solution.
@@ericscott3997If you think you're going to need extra electric cables later, it'd be cheaper to get them installed while you're building. But if you're planning some expensive high-grade speaker cables or data cables as a future upgrade, putting the conduit through the wall and sealing it at the timber would be valid - while it's empty you just need a simple end cap to seal it. You still need one conduit per cable, but having the conduit there saves ripping the wall apart to install the extra cables.
That's a lot of extra work for an electrician, and time is money. Would a good spray of flexseal have a similar effect?
If flexseal is not "listed" for use on wires, your may ruin your wires and have to replace them to pass inspection. Why not use the right stuff: 3M Fire Barrier Sealant CP 25WB+, says me: BrickSaver LLC.
we like we like!
Liked#31 N Subscribed
I have recently discovered your videos. I like them a lot. However, I think/feel we are building our houses too airtight. I live in central BC, Canada and we always leave our bedroom window open at night. So the sealing of the wiring is moot. The only time we actually make sure our windows are closed is during the summer when trying to avoid high internal house temperatures from the sun. We don't have air conditioning and often our daytime outside air temps are 35 to 40 degrees celsius. (90 to 104 F) If we make our houses too tight then we need to spend thousands of dollars on an air to air heat exchanger and worry if there is a power failure how will it affect the moisture and mold in the household air. Naturally filters too as there MAY be airborne organisms harmful to your health. Of course we will have to pay the additional electrical cost for the air exchanger to run continuously. Whatever happened to the idea of a naturally breathing and healthy house like we used to build years ago?
Certain building materials need to breathe to release trapped moisture, but the idea of leaving random gaps for air, moisture, dust, pollen, bugs, flames, etc. to rise up in your structure is bad, or foolish, no offense, says me, BrickSaver LLC. Use red fire caulk to seal around wires, not that pink foam which is mostly messy junk.
If keeping your window open makes sense in the winter, for breathability, shouldn't you keep your windows open in the summer too? Or are you not worried about indoor air quality in the summer?
@@user-vt9fi7fz1k Actually we do keep the window open in the summer. However only at night to take advantage of the cooling effect. I'm not concerned about indoor air quality as my house is an older house. It's not one of the new sealed tight houses. I don't think I would buy one of them as I would be concerned about indoor air quality.
My current house works on the wide-open-window theory. My next house is going to work on the I'm-tired-of-dust-and-hayfever theory. I'm used to living off grid, and the extra solar panels to power the air exchanger won't cost a fraction of what my current array cost me fifteen years ago. No mildew, no dust, no hayfever, and being able to keep the house warm all winter ... count me in!
@@tealkerberus748 That is what I'm building right now. I have seasonal allergies, I live in a rural area, I see the million of bugs out there ready to go into a warm area. I would rather spend a bit more on a HRV than having to breathe pollen, dust, and share my home with million of bugs.
Simple solution = make the attic a CONDITIONED space. Problem solved 😂
Why condition the attic when it is all dead space? In Minnesota, all the services are in the basement.
Panel is usually in the garage on the far outside wall. It's unconditioned space. You'll have the same problem there. Why not move the panel inside the envelope you ask? Because it creates new problems. Undecided with Matt Ferrell tried this approach on his own home and recommends against it due to the unexpected complexity it caused with working with the utility company.