Thank you for the video. You dot all the i's and cross all the t's. Nice! I calibrate my D850 sensor using ColorChecker ( shade), calibrate my iMac 27" screen using i1Profiler, and choose my custom proof condition (Epson 4800 Legacy Platine) before I start adjusting an image. I develop the image, selecting my camera sensor profile as my color starting point, and go from there with all my adjustments believing that what I'm seeing on my monitor (aside from the rendering intent, when printing) will be what comes out of my printer. In the Custom Proof Condition panel, just above the Rendering Intent is [a box to check] Preserve RGB numbers. What purpose does that serve? I check it and everything changes drastically. Appreciate the help.
Question. If we tick simulate paper when we are in an ICC profile that simulates the paper... Can you see where I am going here? What's the point? It seems like we are doubling up. Also, if the monitor has been calibrated to 0.4 nits rather than absolute black, then are we not again creating another problem?
Your printer can’t print as good as most monitors. Most printers are cmyk. It just gives you an idea of what i call the dumbing down of printing, Personally, I don’t use it.
when you have adjustment layers and create the pdf, is it better 1. to leave layers unmerged? and/or 2. to 'preserve editing capablities' in the dialog box?
Indeed I have learned. I am starting to look into this. Let me just ask you something. If you are using a third party company to do your prints what do you do? Since you haven't got control over the printing phase. Another question. Do you need to have your monitor calibrated to do this soft proofing? Why? Thank you in advance.
pyroBlastM ask the third party lab what color profile they use. They might use a common or custom one you can download. Yes for the process to work your monitor must be calibrated. If not what you see on your monitor might not be accurate. Soft proofing lets you see the image with the printer profile which might be different from what you are using.
@@Jcwphoto thanks John, for your comment. Can I just ask you something else. Do you know how the calibration process works in the computer? For example, before starting to 'study' this I had the idea that the calibration would work by manually adjusting the RGB colours in the monitor menu as well as the contrast and brightness. But I think this is not the case right? Do you have any idea how the software works? So you connect the device to the computer, then you launch the software and it will run. What is it doing actually? At the end it will create some sort of profile but this profile has nothing to do with the monitor menu options right? But how are these two connected? Or haven't got anything to do with each other?
pyroBlastM check these two videos out. ruclips.net/video/T6H8UoYXm3o/видео.html i cant find the other but i will post it later or make a new video. ruclips.net/video/wXBykjWbYvo/видео.html
If my 4K monitor LG 27UK650 is calibrated with a Spyder X Pro as a Standard LED because it has 100% SRGB coverage and only 80% Adobe RGB (Data Color reached out to me and said that my monitor is not a Wide Gamut LED) and I shoot in RAW (Use Capture One Pro 12 and Photoshop CC 2019), should I export files from Capture One Pro to Photoshop in SRGB or Adobe RGB 1998 for further editing (skin retouching ) in Photoshop? I suppose I should also export files from Capture One Pro to Photoshop as 16-bit TIFF whether or not I convert it to SRGB or Adobe RGB Color Space? The only thing I want to do in Photoshop is to use Spot Healing Brush and Content Aware Tool and maybe some dodging and burning. I suppose if you have TIFF (16 bit) and not an 8-bit JPEG, you can perform those actions in Photoshop better? (less image quality loss)? Thank you
Choose View > Proof Setup > Custom. Do either of the following: To save a custom proof setup, click Save. To ensure that the new preset appears in the View > Proof Setup menu, save the preset in the default location. To load a custom proof setup, click Load.
I am not positive on this but on a mac my guess would be hd/library/application support/adobe. Probably one of the options inside that folder. They have a color and profiles folder. I am not at home to test.
Sorry, I don't use it. The profiles are optimized for printing so in this case you do not need to use it. For instance a newspaper print on really low quality absorbent paper. If they lay down too much ink it becomes a mess. It could also never print blacks in the 90% range. They would lower it on a proof to match the black point the press is able to print. I do not think more people would fall into this factor. Sometimes I skip over information, so I do not over-complicate things. Hope this helps.
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Thank you so much John for the helpful and informative tutorial! God bless and good luck!
a very straightforward instruction that had immediate impact on my prints
Really good and clear. Many thanks.
you are an excellent teacher!
Thank you
I am sharing this with others!
Great to hear
Thank You. I see I can make improvements on how I have been using soft proofing in Photoshop.
Thank you for the video. You dot all the i's and cross all the t's. Nice!
I calibrate my D850 sensor using ColorChecker ( shade), calibrate my iMac 27" screen using i1Profiler, and choose my custom proof condition (Epson 4800 Legacy Platine) before I start adjusting an image. I develop the image, selecting my camera sensor profile as my color starting point, and go from there with all my adjustments believing that what I'm seeing on my monitor (aside from the rendering intent, when printing) will be what comes out of my printer. In the Custom Proof Condition panel, just above the Rendering Intent is [a box to check] Preserve RGB numbers. What purpose does that serve? I check it and everything changes drastically. Appreciate the help.
Question. If we tick simulate paper when we are in an ICC profile that simulates the paper... Can you see where I am going here? What's the point? It seems like we are doubling up. Also, if the monitor has been calibrated to 0.4 nits rather than absolute black, then are we not again creating another problem?
Your printer can’t print as good as most monitors. Most printers are cmyk. It just gives you an idea of what i call the dumbing down of printing, Personally, I don’t use it.
when you have adjustment layers and create the pdf, is it better 1. to leave layers unmerged? and/or 2. to 'preserve editing capablities' in the dialog box?
Depends on what you want. Personally, i use psd to save my files and always save layers
Indeed I have learned. I am starting to look into this. Let me just ask you something. If you are using a third party company to do your prints what do you do? Since you haven't got control over the printing phase. Another question. Do you need to have your monitor calibrated to do this soft proofing? Why? Thank you in advance.
pyroBlastM ask the third party lab what color profile they use. They might use a common or custom one you can download. Yes for the process to work your monitor must be calibrated. If not what you see on your monitor might not be accurate. Soft proofing lets you see the image with the printer profile which might be different from what you are using.
@@Jcwphoto thanks John, for your comment. Can I just ask you something else. Do you know how the calibration process works in the computer? For example, before starting to 'study' this I had the idea that the calibration would work by manually adjusting the RGB colours in the monitor menu as well as the contrast and brightness. But I think this is not the case right? Do you have any idea how the software works? So you connect the device to the computer, then you launch the software and it will run. What is it doing actually? At the end it will create some sort of profile but this profile has nothing to do with the monitor menu options right? But how are these two connected? Or haven't got anything to do with each other?
pyroBlastM check these two videos out. ruclips.net/video/T6H8UoYXm3o/видео.html i cant find the other but i will post it later or make a new video. ruclips.net/video/wXBykjWbYvo/видео.html
@@Jcwphoto that's perfect.
If my 4K monitor LG 27UK650 is calibrated with a Spyder X Pro as a Standard LED because it has 100% SRGB coverage and only 80% Adobe RGB (Data Color reached out to me and said that my monitor is not a Wide Gamut LED) and I shoot in RAW (Use Capture One Pro 12 and Photoshop CC 2019), should I export files from Capture One Pro to Photoshop in SRGB or Adobe RGB 1998 for further editing (skin retouching ) in Photoshop? I suppose I should also export files from Capture One Pro to Photoshop as 16-bit TIFF whether or not I convert it to SRGB or Adobe RGB Color Space? The only thing I want to do in Photoshop is to use Spot Healing Brush and Content Aware Tool and maybe some dodging and burning. I suppose if you have TIFF (16 bit) and not an 8-bit JPEG, you can perform those actions in Photoshop better? (less image quality loss)? Thank you
ThrustmasterD Adobe RGB
NICE! ...but where is that "proofing" folder located?
Choose View > Proof Setup > Custom.
Do either of the following:
To save a custom proof setup, click Save. To ensure that the new preset appears in the View > Proof Setup menu, save the preset in the default location.
To load a custom proof setup, click Load.
I am not positive on this but on a mac my guess would be hd/library/application support/adobe. Probably one of the options inside that folder. They have a color and profiles folder. I am not at home to test.
@@Jcwphoto thanks but... I have no default location and the preset doesn't show up in the menu :(
And what if i dont have so much printers to choose from? :)
I work with PSC6 but i don´t have that much printers i can choose from?
You just choose the printer you have.
still not the same image... I'm literaly desperate, because, it's changing all my colors...
Not enough info. Is your monitor calibrated. What is your working profile. If you see a drastic change something else is the issue.
I assume you've loaded in all those device/printer profiles, right? I don't have nearly as many in my list.
Correct
@@Jcwphoto Thanks. Heaps of helpful info in this vid.
Thanks!
Welcome!
You skipped over Black Point Compensation, you unticked it but didn't give any reasoning for it.
Sorry, I don't use it. The profiles are optimized for printing so in this case you do not need to use it. For instance a newspaper print on really low quality absorbent paper. If they lay down too much ink it becomes a mess. It could also never print blacks in the 90% range. They would lower it on a proof to match the black point the press is able to print. I do not think more people would fall into this factor. Sometimes I skip over information, so I do not over-complicate things. Hope this helps.