Do Megapixels Matter?
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
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How many megapixels do you really need?
In this video, I give my thoughts on what makes a high-quality photo and where you should splash your cash if you're in the market for new photography gear.
There are many things to consider. How important is cropping to you? Perhaps you're more concerned about dynamic range or weather sealing. Maybe you never print your photos and just need your images to look great online.
I'll show you the difference that a good piece of glass makes in terms of sharpness and price by delving into some RAW files from my recent shoot with the OM1 MkII. The results might just surprise you.
I also show you what kind of results you can expect when upscaling your images to the point where you might be wondering if you really need a super high-resolution camera?
Thanks for watching
Gavin - Fototripper
#landscapephotography #photoediting #olympus
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Great comparison! Just one thing to note regarding ideal aperture range on m43 cameras. Photographing at F11 is equivalent to shooting F22 on full frame when considering how much diffraction will occur when stopping down a lens. To get the sharpest results with a m43 lens you should be shooting between F4 to F8 in general. If you ever borrow m43 gear again, try giving that a try if you want sharper results. Most OM/Olympus Pro lens are well regarded for their sharpness, but if shooting at F11, you are going to run into diffraction issues.
Furthermore, if you are worried about not having enough depth of field as the reason you are stopping the lens down so far, remember that on m43 lenses you have approximately twice the depth of field at a given aperture if comparing an equivalent field of view between m43 and full frame cameras.
I hope that is helpful :)
Agreed. I prefer F/7 on Panasonic Lumix/Leica lenses compared to F/16 on Nikon full frame Nikkor lenses when photographing the same scene.
Agreed, if you use f11 on M43 you will have a softer image.
If you're really concerned about the best sharpness f/8 is way too small for m43. It give the same diffraction blur as f/16 on FF, and no-one would say that's where the 'sharpest results' are. I'd say that the 'sharpest' range is f/4-f/8 on FF and thus f/2-f/4 on m43. The m43manufactures know that you need to use lower f-numbers on their cameras and design them so that in general they are at their sharpest stopped down one stop or so
@@BobN54 Detailed centre sharpness is different than sharpness across the frame. Almost all full frame lenses are at their best performance in terms of image sharpness at centre at around f/5.6. They just need stopping down to increase depth of field but actual sharpness does not increase. The same with 4/3rds, just that the f/stop is a little wider.
Excellent video! I have the OM System OM1 and the 7-14 mm Pro, and this lens is phenomenal in terms of resolution. F11 is not the best choice, so you are entering in the diffraction zone, and I always try the F5.6 or F8 aperture. For landscapes is also useful the high resolution mode, that offers up to 80 Mpixels on a tripod. Give it a try and let us know how the experience has been!
Exactly. I never go past f8, unless I desperately need wider depth of field (macro) on M43.
doesn't the OM1 have a high res mode with 80mpx or something like that?
Yeah but it can’t be used in every situation. Can’t have anything moving in the image, for instance.
We've never had it so good, that's for damn sure. My little D-Lux 8 has shown me that 17MP is more than enough when captured through a quality lens and onto a sensor with good DR and color science. But I'm with you on the X2D - it's not the 100MP sensor that steals the show. It's the ergonomics, the dynamic range, the IBIS, and the gorgeous natural colors that come out of it. And it's just so beautiful to look at. It's a keeper.
Enjoy all your videos. Thanks for all the free content and educational details.
You hit the exact reason I got a Sony a7R III. My 3 lenses are far apart in focal length: 10mm, 28mm shift, and 65mm macro. The Sony's resolution, in effect, gives me additional 15, 20, 50, 85, 100 and 135!
Some of the softness of the ultrawide could be diffraction (shot was f11). It shows up sooner on many M43 lenses than on full frame. I typically wouldn't go past f8 on my OM lenses.
Thank you for this video comparison. I'm old and got tired of carrying heavy telephotos so I sold them. I'm not a professional, and don't print huge. I was just looking at new cameras and coming to the same conclusions you made. So thank you for the validation.
can't believe you are comparing a wide angle with a tele on a subject 1km away
Meaningless comparison. If one wants to compare lense sharpness, then one must use the same angle of view, the same subject, the same lighting.
Wowzers. This is top tier education and content…as usual. Cheers 🙌 from a fellow Caper 👍
I have a friend who is a professional photographer, and has done well for himself since 1975, and has used a Hassy for many many years, but when he goes on safari he brings an OS camera and has made amazing very large prints with them.
Great video Gavin, certainly opened my eyes .
Very great intro into the OM system. It has quite some interesting features like included ND and gnd filter. He Gav, can you show its usage in your next video's?
I have this combo, and it shines when you’re in the top of a 4x4 bumping around Borneo forests without needing a tripod and using the 1.4x multiplier to get a shot of an orangutan far away in a 30m tall tree… or same forest in a boat constantly moving shooting hornbills. I was wondering how you can do the same photo with a much heavier equipment without the phenomenal stabilization that this combo has.
Thanks for the tip about using Topaz on the RAW file. I haven't been doing that (until now).
I think this is probably the time where people ARENT competing on pixel counts - 10/15 years ago it was a thing - but when they got to 24mp, people accepted its more than enough
Great video Gavin. I have to agree with the other comments regarding shooting at f/11. With m43, some diffraction will set in by f/11. The 7-14mm f2.8 pro is also one of their first pro lenses, so nearly 10 years old now. Most of the m43 lenses peak in sharpness in the f/5.6 to f/8 region. After f/8, diffraction starts to creep in. But of course, DoF, continues to increase at the smaller apertures so there's a tradeoff if the diffraction can be overcome in post. BTW, the weather sealing on the Olympus cameras and pro lenses is awesome. My EM5Mk3 and the 40-150mm f/4 pro lens took a bath in a canoe this past summer. Submerged for about 10 seconds. I used both the camera and the lens extensively on a recent trip since, and the camera on some street photography with no issues. In fact, there was no leaking into either the camera or lens and they only had to be wiped down with a towel. A bag of rice was not needed. One other thing, you will find the camera and a couple lenses easier to hike around with up and down mountains.
The choice between high quality lenses and 'more megapixels' is a false dichotomy, because they do the same thing - increase resolution and acutance. Increasing the megapixel count increases the resolution you get from every lens you own. It's just that for the poor lenses the improvement might be marginal whilst for the best ones it is clearly visible. Put it this way, if you like high quality lenses and you want them to perform at their best you need a high MP camera. Much of the discussion on this topic is marred by false ideas that are common on the internet, originating from a few supposedly authoritative web sites that get it very wrong. As for how much resolution and quality you actually need, that's a personal choice, as well as being driven by how you present your photos. As for 'dynamic range', for most usage dynamic range is sufficient on almost every modern camera for normal work. In the end, high MP cameras tend to gibe more DR, so this is another false dichotomy.
Three months ago I traded my R5 in on a Fuji GFX 100 II, yesterday I traded the Fuji in on a R5 II. I compared shots from the 102mp Fuji to my 24mp R3 shots and the difference wasn't that great and it wasn't worth running two systems. I didn't see a big difference in the R3 and R5 that's why I traded the R5 in expecting to see more from 102mp but it just wasn't there. I agree spending money on lenses instead of megapixels is a better choice.
Topaz Upscaling? Good old Shannon (aka upsampling) and sharpening does wonders. And it's for free.
This vidro was ace. Very ingormative, and would have szved me tonnes of cash, if it had been made a few years back. Superb, relevant content. 👍
I think I'm going to side with the Micro 4/3ers on this one Gavin and say you stopped the WA lens down too much on the OM1. As for me, having now got 40Mp, what I really need is a camera that's bleddy simple to operate and doesn't keep popping up random menus when I'm shooting. Grrr😡 Now, on a different subject my friend John D. Moneycounter has nudged my elbow saying something about 'an undeclared income stream...'😉
Just curious if you ever tried the high res mode on the OM-1 and if so what was your take away?
True words and after using 20mp canon cameras for years now I'm more than happy to.put them down for my X2D.
Megapixels matter only in so much as the photographer wants them to matter. Almost any shot can be obtained with a decent camera regardless of the megapixels. But photographers have come to rely on megapixels and therefore they have made them important to the way they shoot.
Sometimes truth is stranger than fiction: you can shoot 80MP on a tripod or 50MP handheld with the OM-1. Combined with the 150-400...
Another channel ! Thank you Gavin..... 😃
Of all the camera systems I've tried, nothing tops the star trails I get out of the Olympus/OM Systems live composite feature.
If you want incredible results get a hold of the APO Summicron M F2 35mm ASPH. This lens is supper sharp and has a Cinematic look when shot at F/2. I have used many lenses in my 50 years of photographing and this lens is by far the best I have used. Expensive it is but worth the money.
Do agree with what you are saying Gavin 100%. Great video thank you.......Colin Devon uk
❤love the video and agree with you i have the om system camera you do need the pro lens for the sharpness
Well done. Well said.
Finally. Some speaks the truth about the megapixel wars.
More megapixels means the smaller the lens I need. Smaller, lighter.
1st thing to look for in a camera is ... your own knowledge! Only when you have acquired knowledge and skills will you be able to get the best out of the "best" gear (As you do so well! 👍🙂👍) . Otherwise, gear won't make much difference... And I haven't got to discussing postprocessing yet ... 😉
“Do megapixels matter” all I can say is “does a piss ant poop!”
Now you need to test the camera’s high resolution mode and compare that to topaz upscaling… and the camera wins
"Do Megapixels Matter?"
Yes.
Great video
Did I just hear the title of another book ( Crops in. Crops ) help ma boab 👀
I have A Sony A1 and A7R5, with all the GM lenses but one, (I didn't need the 50GM 1.4 if I have the 1.2). But the point of all this equipment bragging is that I also have the OM-1 mark I and a number of their pro lenses. When I have a several month trip to Europe this is the camera system I take and I leave all those Sony Pixels behind. The freedom of travel photography with the M43 system can not be overstated. I find DxO Photolab squeezes out great detail, and as you say, Gigapixel upress works wonders if needed for really large prints. So M43 is for convenience and flexibility, not for just a budget.
I get travel pictures I likely would not if I took the Sony. I can take more lenses. I have greater endurance to seek out images. I can also get depth of field at f5.6 that f11 would be needed on full frame; that's like 2 stops less ISO towards image quality! I could go on.
And good video!
mines 14mp. ☺
10,000 dollars for glass wrong channel for me wow.
Megapixels... hmmm 😅