I can't thank you enough ..... This is the exact same rear end and procedure for my 2010 Venza ...... Got my struts at KYB Outlet and borrowed the compressor at Autozone ...... Saved around 700$ for 2.5 hours of work !!!!!! Thank You ! Thank You ! THANK YOU !!!!!!
Jim thanks for this video ! I have a 2010 Highlander with 160k miles and today I was quoted $1800. to replace the 4 struts. And at that price the new struts (Monroe) would still also require using my original springs. I found a set of 4 online, with new springs already mounted, for $800., so it seems with a day set aside in my garage, I could stand to save myself $1k with the help of your videos. I can't believe it is this straightforward.
Hi Jim...not sure if you're still out there doing instructional videos but I wanted to send out a huge "THANK YOU" for your detailed instructions on changing shocks/struts and stabilizer bars on the Toyota Highlander. I just saved over $1000 by doing this work myself on my 2010 Highlander! Would have been 10x more difficult without your video tutorials!
Thanks Jim! Once again you saved me a bunch of time and money! I replaced the front struts on my 2007 Toyota Sienna with new OEM complete struts by KYB as I didn't want to mess with switching out the springs mechanisms. The complete struts were only $150 each online and worth it for a DIYer like me who isn't a real mechanic (even had a $40 rebate from KYB for buying 2 complete struts). I also changed out the Sway Bar links with new Moogs. Unfortunately, the old links were so rusted out that I have to cut off with an Angle Grinder. Even replaced the rear shocks with new KYBs. Here's to smoother rides ahead! :)
Any reason you didn’t change the strut mounts seems like if the struts ago and perhaps the strut mounts need to be changed to, I know they’re expensive almost 3/4 of the price of the struts! From Toyota anyway.
Question: I don’t have a spring compressor. I fully know the dangers of a loaded spring so I don’t want to attempt that without the proper tools. My question is, can I buy a complete Assembly with new springs so that I don’t have to worry about compressing them? Is that safe for a normal person?
Thumbs up on video. Appreciate your help. Question, if you can answer. On the second one, I accidentally dropped the top mount bearing out on the ground. I did not pay attention enough on the first one as to its orientation. The bearing has one side that has a black rubber seal on it. Does that seal face down to the ground or up to the sky in relation to the rest of the strut assembly when mounted back on the vehicle? Thanks.
Hey jim love your video. After I had my struts replaced I hear a small clunk noise or suction kind of noise over speed bumps at normal speed but if I go over them slowly no noise please help me
I replaced my rear struts and during a test drive heard a clunking noise going over road irregularities. I noticed that my old struts had a tallish washer under the nut that I originally neglected to put on the new ones. So I removed the new struts and put the old washers on them. Replaced the new struts on the car and took it out for a drive. No more noise.
Also, I noticed you didn't mention anything about the thrust bearing. I thought it was standard practice to swap to new ones when you replaced front struts?
those the upper mount rotate freely by hand after its installed or no?..i am confused because i just got a new full assembly with spring ,top mount and strut pre-assembled and the top doesn't rotate by hand ,normal?
For what it's worth, I've heard stories of cheap quick struts having stiffer springs (impacting ride quality) and inferior strut parts (failing prematurely). Look for original equipment struts (I bought KYB, but there are probably other quality brands). I think Jim used Monroe. Also, if this is a job you haven't done before, quick struts can save you time and agrivation, and you're not having to tamper with with a compressed coil spring.
Nice to find this post man. I've been thinking about doing this work myself to save the money we need to also repair a vibrating driveshaft... Yikes! Here's one small detail I'm curious that you didn't mention. In the past, I've seen Service Bulletins from Mazda (the Highlander is my wife's car, whereas I've driven stick-shift Mazdas for almost 3 decades...) which suggest applying some sort of lubricant or silicone grease on the spring seat to avoid squeaking problems. Have you heard of this? Thanks for the great video post!
+InexplicableBill Thanks for watching.I've never heard of putting anything on the new spring to seat them.I would just install them .If you run into any problems let me know I can help you through.
Outstanding video, thanks for sharing, subscribed! 👍
Thanks for the video! Completed mine today!
I can't thank you enough ..... This is the exact same rear end and procedure for my 2010 Venza ...... Got my struts at KYB Outlet and borrowed the compressor at Autozone ...... Saved around 700$ for 2.5 hours of work !!!!!! Thank You ! Thank You ! THANK YOU !!!!!!
BUBBACHUKA great job.The best part is $700. in your pocket.If you need any info in the future let me know.Jim
Jim thanks for this video ! I have a 2010 Highlander with 160k miles and today I was quoted $1800. to replace the 4 struts. And at that price the new struts (Monroe) would still also require using my original springs. I found a set of 4 online, with new springs already mounted, for $800., so it seems with a day set aside in my garage, I could stand to save myself $1k with the help of your videos. I can't believe it is this straightforward.
I'm happy to help. Let me know how you do .Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
Hi Jim...not sure if you're still out there doing instructional videos but I wanted to send out a huge "THANK YOU" for your detailed instructions on changing shocks/struts and stabilizer bars on the Toyota Highlander. I just saved over $1000 by doing this work myself on my 2010 Highlander! Would have been 10x more difficult without your video tutorials!
Thank you Mike . I'm happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
You forgot to mention in the vidoe you have the lower arm jacked up.
Thanks Jim! Once again you saved me a bunch of time and money! I replaced the front struts on my 2007 Toyota Sienna with new OEM complete struts by KYB as I didn't want to mess with switching out the springs mechanisms. The complete struts were only $150 each online and worth it for a DIYer like me who isn't a real mechanic (even had a $40 rebate from KYB for buying 2 complete struts). I also changed out the Sway Bar links with new Moogs. Unfortunately, the old links were so rusted out that I have to cut off with an Angle Grinder. Even replaced the rear shocks with new KYBs. Here's to smoother rides ahead! :)
David Breiner Wow you did a great job. Appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching.
How much of a difference was your ride with the quick struts vs the regular struts that were on your car?
David Breiner Are the complete struts still working good
outstanding work you are a lifesaver
Thank you for watching and your feedback
Great video !!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Jimthecarguy What size of the impact socket is it for taking the bolts out ?? 22mm or 23mm ??
Jimthecarguy The bottom bolts of the strut. Is it 22mm or 23mm ?
thank you mr. jim just took my highlander to the dealer and they quoted me an outstanding price for this job
What size of the impact socket is it for taking the bolts out ?? 22mm or 23mm ??
22mm
Any reason you didn’t change the strut mounts seems like if the struts ago and perhaps the strut mounts need to be changed to, I know they’re expensive almost 3/4 of the price of the struts! From Toyota anyway.
Question:
I don’t have a spring compressor. I fully know the dangers of a loaded spring so I don’t want to attempt that without the proper tools.
My question is, can I buy a complete Assembly with new springs so that I don’t have to worry about compressing them?
Is that safe for a normal person?
Thumbs up on video. Appreciate your help. Question, if you can answer. On the second one, I accidentally dropped the top mount bearing out on the ground. I did not pay attention enough on the first one as to its orientation. The bearing has one side that has a black rubber seal on it. Does that seal face down to the ground or up to the sky in relation to the rest of the strut assembly when mounted back on the vehicle? Thanks.
Hey jim love your video. After I had my struts replaced I hear a small clunk noise or suction kind of noise over speed bumps at normal speed but if I go over them slowly no noise please help me
I replaced my rear struts and during a test drive heard a clunking noise going over road irregularities. I noticed that my old struts had a tallish washer under the nut that I originally neglected to put on the new ones. So I removed the new struts and put the old washers on them. Replaced the new struts on the car and took it out for a drive. No more noise.
Also, I noticed you didn't mention anything about the thrust bearing. I thought it was standard practice to swap to new ones when you replaced front struts?
Jim, can you recommend a reliable quick strut kit for a 2010 Highlander.
What is a allocate @ 9:42 that you’re using?
He might of said Allen wrench or similar tool
Will this procedure work the same way with our Toyota Venza '10?
Apparently you didn't read the comments before yours. 😀
those the upper mount rotate freely by hand after its installed or no?..i am confused because i just got a new full assembly with spring ,top mount and strut pre-assembled and the top doesn't rotate by hand ,normal?
Yes the top bearing plate is tight on a new assembly but when you install it on the car it will turn ok.
Great ,really appreciate your help , much health to you have great day...
Thanks for the great video, would you suggest thread locker in the knuckle bolts?
thank you for watching and your input.No thread lock is needed.
Hi JIm, the video is awesome. Have but one question and that is: Is there a difference between the procedure for an AWD 2008 Highlander and a 2WD?
I like your video! May I ask if quick struts would have been a good choice for you to use. Or do you think it is a waste of money?
For what it's worth, I've heard stories of cheap quick struts having stiffer springs (impacting ride quality) and inferior strut parts (failing prematurely). Look for original equipment struts (I bought KYB, but there are probably other quality brands). I think Jim used Monroe. Also, if this is a job you haven't done before, quick struts can save you time and agrivation, and you're not having to tamper with with a compressed coil spring.
Nice to find this post man. I've been thinking about doing this work myself to save the money we need to also repair a vibrating driveshaft... Yikes! Here's one small detail I'm curious that you didn't mention. In the past, I've seen Service Bulletins from Mazda (the Highlander is my wife's car, whereas I've driven stick-shift Mazdas for almost 3 decades...) which suggest applying some sort of lubricant or silicone grease on the spring seat to avoid squeaking problems. Have you heard of this? Thanks for the great video post!
+InexplicableBill Thanks for watching.I've never heard of putting anything on the new spring to seat them.I would just install them .If you run into any problems let me know I can help you through.
It's a good video, but you skipped a few important steps, for example the top mount have a specific position, and this is not a job for beginners
👍
Thanks
7:24, 8:19, 11:43, 19:16, 19:33,
Thank you your the mvp