For my personal situation (I have this exact induction forge) it pulls a max of 50amps at 240V. Multiply those and you get 12,000W or 12kW. My electric bill in Janesville, Wisconsin runs 13¢/kWhr - this means that my hourly rate of operating this forge (time on the pedal, not simply idling) is $1.56. The energy efficiency is phenomenal!
I made DIY version with parts from eBay, but the commercial units have dramatically dropped in price.. I virtually never use my torch set these days and have not lit the forge in over two years as I can basically do everything I need using the induction coil so much faster and without all the excess heat.. The only issue is that it will not heat non-magnetic stainless steels or basically anything non-ferrous like aluminum or brass (it will get the material hot enough to burn you, but will never get red hot).. Now if you put those materials into a crucible, you can melt them..
For non non-magnetic materials or even things like glass try this method. Put the material between to plates that do conduct and you may even what the to use aluminum plates for slower heating.
Great video. I made one for $50 from parts from amazon and I trashed a 2 proto-types in the learning process. My final rig is portable in that it fits in a shoe box and has portable power using lipo type batteries. This allows me use the thing outside if the material smokes if it had oils on it like for hardening exist tools like snips or bit heads.
This video is worthwhile, but all of the links in the video description... INVALUABLE! Thanks so much for taking the time to document all of these options that you've used for your setup. The number of folks who've done so is thusfar pretty anemic. I'm looking forward to reading Derek's site as well, but needed a few short-cuts for getting myself set up to use mine. Cheers!
I recommend strapping or bolting the forge down if you use a cart. Saw too many carts go ass over teacups over the years. Good video, thanks for sharing, man!
Nice video. However, note the increased efficiency seen at 5:00 has less to do with the coil gap and more to do with the orientation of the magnetic lines of flux relative to the cross section of the steel. In the flat configuration, there is eddy current cancellation within the steel, limiting heat to about 1400F (Currie) due to the relatively low operating frequency of the power supply. The induced current is 180 degrees out of phase on each side of the heated part. Due to the thin cross section the induced currents meet in the middle of the part and cancel each other. In the 90 degree orientation there is a greater distance between the induced currents and cancellation of the currents is eliminated allowing for greater temperatures above the currrie point. It is true that smaller gaps are more efficient, but that is not the reason for the increased efficiency noted in the example shown in the video.
It might be convenient to have a stand with an in-feed and out-feed to help you hold your workpiece in the center of the coil, particularly when you're heating the middle of a long piece of stock. A flat table, an assortment of shims, and a pair of bricks (for the actual work rest) should do the trick.
Thanks for sharing. I had not heard of such a machine. It would be great to replace a forge or at least some aspects of the forge. Especially in a much warmer climate like central Florida. Interested to see more on the unit. Thanks and be blessed!
Wow congrats on your new tool Chris. Hopefully ur getting great use of it my friend for many years to come. Very well explained video and definitely useful and very helpful. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Fab on. Weld on. Keep making. God bless.
Would love to see this application in knife making! I've been wanting to get into it but don't have room for a forge, save burning some coals in the yard. Very intriguing
Re Coils if for bending the 6mm 1/4" coil tubing, best to fill it with some thing like woods metal alloy from the bottom to ensure no air pocks that will cause the coil collapse. Its then easy to shove in boiling water and blow it out with a sponge plug that ensures the coils are spotless inside. You can get a 2ft 60cm flexible connection that will give you great convenience in how you use your coils, as the coils go to the work piece and not the being restricted to the other way around. Check the maker to see if your machine can take a longer extension 2ft was my machines limit.
Really great tool -- Thanks for the video. Too bad such a tool cost is beyond most hobbiests and small shops, but for a decent size business it would be great! I wonder if an old inverter welder could be repurposed and modified into an inverter heater like the one in the video.
Very impressive! When you make your own coils would you please make a video of the process. Coiling tubing in clean, uniform coils without crushing the tubing is not easy. Do you need to monitor the temperature of the tubing? Even with cooling the melting point of copper is pretty low compared to steel. I assume that you use distilled water so you don't get mineral deposits. Do you need any chemicals to prevent corrosion? I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. You are an excellent teacher. Bob
On my DIY induction forge, I use a commercial TIG torch coolant mix which as far as I can tell from the data sheet is just gylcol antifreeze with some corrosion inhibitors but without the colorant, but regular distilled water works fine as well...
I think i remember an episode of how it's made on trumpets, they freeze ice inside and bend it cold. I think you can also fill with sand and cap the ends to prevent the tube from collapsing. I'm really interested to see the process as well.
Tubing benders are fairly cheap. Like for car brake lines. I believe most of those go up to half inch which im pretty sure is the size these coils are.
Re insulated coils, the Fiberglass will burn and go and fire eventually, if you can get Mica tape in your country use it its good to twice the temp 900-1,000°C. You can also use zirconium oxide based paint that is completely heat proof 1,800°C very expensive but you can buy zirconium oxide powder add silicate (waterglass) and bake it on and save a fortune with non sparking coils.
I put the connections in a metal junction box with clamp connectors to avoid them getting pulled out. For the ground I followed Derek meltons website and ran a ground cable from the internal ground lug up to my cable. Worked well and is very clean
I used your junction box method. It worked great. Here is a link to a video I made describing the process. ruclips.net/video/RiI7ib2Y5Ns/видео.htmlsi=-WRHj8zxzbFRT0BZ Thanks for your input
I am ready to get one for my home set up. I'm new to this and need to learn which wire to buy, which kind of male plug for end, etc. I'm having an electrician do the outlets and run the ejector in the wall. He hasn't seen this before, so would appreciate any pointers. I've looked online extensively and can't seem to get what I need.
That's actually pretty solid filter criteria. I'm often shocked at how high end of machines coming out of China don't have the money for a decent translator. If you watch Ramsey's customs, that guy is importing half million dollar machines three four times a year and even those don't have legible instructions. Any Chinese company that has it together enough to get proper instructions translated, I suppose they would be one of the better companies.
How much current does this induction heater use? I understand that it will heat ferrous stock faster and in a more concentrated area than a traditional forge, but at what cost in electricity?
So can you have more spread out coil so it heats a larger area at once? I guess it would take longer but you wouldn’t have to keep moving it as much maybe.
This seems like a really bad idea considering we don't have a comprehensive understanding of the effects of EMF on human tissues. I hope I'm just paranoid.
I think the real savings on this is in propane for those who use a gas forge. Derek melton wrote in his article that he’s saving almost $100 a month on propane fills. For me, the convenience in Gonna be huge!!
True, the induction unit will also not do stainless or non-ferrous (unless you want to melt them in a crucible) and a torch is useful for other things, but if you do a lot of mild steel work and can afford to add it to your arsenal, the induction saves so much time and effort in the workshop that it is well justified IMO.. Even one saved trip across town to the gas supplier, wrestling with tanks in my small car is justification enough for me...
@Felix Karl bitcoin cloud isn't the best, mining bitcoin isn't as easy as it seems... it takes much strategies and analysis. the $20,000 I just made isn't from my professionalism. I trade with a prof. Mr. Felix Hartmann, I've been trading with him for half a year now.
For my personal situation (I have this exact induction forge) it pulls a max of 50amps at 240V. Multiply those and you get 12,000W or 12kW. My electric bill in Janesville, Wisconsin runs 13¢/kWhr - this means that my hourly rate of operating this forge (time on the pedal, not simply idling) is $1.56. The energy efficiency is phenomenal!
That’s awesome to know! Derek Melton said he was saving hundreds on propane by using this and I don’t doubt it! I love this thing!
I made DIY version with parts from eBay, but the commercial units have dramatically dropped in price.. I virtually never use my torch set these days and have not lit the forge in over two years as I can basically do everything I need using the induction coil so much faster and without all the excess heat.. The only issue is that it will not heat non-magnetic stainless steels or basically anything non-ferrous like aluminum or brass (it will get the material hot enough to burn you, but will never get red hot).. Now if you put those materials into a crucible, you can melt them..
For non non-magnetic materials or even things like glass try this method. Put the material between to plates that do conduct and you may even what the to use aluminum plates for slower heating.
Your the reason I decided to take a welding class and want to make money doing this not just u but my passions aline and I love the vids
Stay focused and don’t give up! Thanks for following along!!
Great video. I made one for $50 from parts from amazon and I trashed a 2 proto-types in the learning process. My final rig is portable in that it fits in a shoe box and has portable power using lipo type batteries. This allows me use the thing outside if the material smokes if it had oils on it like for hardening exist tools like snips or bit heads.
Can you melt stainless steel
Can u brazing copper pipe?
Thanks for the info. I just ordered one of these US Solid heaters and some accessories form Cluaran Forge,
Chris, you have a very nice toy chest there. The possibilities are endless!
Oh, the edutainment that can be produced!
This video is worthwhile, but all of the links in the video description... INVALUABLE! Thanks so much for taking the time to document all of these options that you've used for your setup. The number of folks who've done so is thusfar pretty anemic. I'm looking forward to reading Derek's site as well, but needed a few short-cuts for getting myself set up to use mine. Cheers!
That’s induction forge is amazing!!! Definitely looking forward to seeing more of it. And you running that power hammer!!!!
I recommend strapping or bolting the forge down if you use a cart. Saw too many carts go ass over teacups over the years.
Good video, thanks for sharing, man!
This will come in handy when you make your reclaimed steel baby crib!👍👍👍👍
I use one of those machines to heat flat stock for forging spoons and primitive silverware
Nice job Chris! Glad to see you recognize Derek, he's a great guy and super helpful! Keep it up!
Got the same cart and TIG cooler for my induction heater, making those shelf risers tomorrow. Thanks again for the video.
Got it done, perfect fit. Powder coating color even matched.
Nice video. However, note the increased efficiency seen at 5:00 has less to do with the coil gap and more to do with the orientation of the magnetic lines of flux relative to the cross section of the steel. In the flat configuration, there is eddy current cancellation within the steel, limiting heat to about 1400F (Currie) due to the relatively low operating frequency of the power supply. The induced current is 180 degrees out of phase on each side of the heated part. Due to the thin cross section the induced currents meet in the middle of the part and cancel each other. In the 90 degree orientation there is a greater distance between the induced currents and cancellation of the currents is eliminated allowing for greater temperatures above the currrie point. It is true that smaller gaps are more efficient, but that is not the reason for the increased efficiency noted in the example shown in the video.
It might be convenient to have a stand with an in-feed and out-feed to help you hold your workpiece in the center of the coil, particularly when you're heating the middle of a long piece of stock. A flat table, an assortment of shims, and a pair of bricks (for the actual work rest) should do the trick.
Thanks for the demo and all the links. Very informative.
Thanks for sharing. I had not heard of such a machine. It would be great to replace a forge or at least some aspects of the forge. Especially in a much warmer climate like central Florida. Interested to see more on the unit. Thanks and be blessed!
Wow congrats on your new tool Chris. Hopefully ur getting great use of it my friend for many years to come. Very well explained video and definitely useful and very helpful. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Fab on. Weld on. Keep making. God bless.
Would love to see this application in knife making! I've been wanting to get into it but don't have room for a forge, save burning some coals in the yard. Very intriguing
I’ll be making a knife using this soon! I’m going to go for my first integral and this will be perfect for that!
@@MakeEverything Hope you film that project. Looking forward to it.
it still heats the metal insaely fast amazing i have t build one
Re Coils if for bending the 6mm 1/4" coil tubing, best to fill it with some thing like woods metal alloy from the bottom to ensure no air pocks that will cause the coil collapse. Its then easy to shove in boiling water and blow it out with a sponge plug that ensures the coils are spotless inside. You can get a 2ft 60cm flexible connection that will give you great convenience in how you use your coils, as the coils go to the work piece and not the being restricted to the other way around. Check the maker to see if your machine can take a longer extension 2ft was my machines limit.
Awesome.....The guys on Forged in fire could use that induction heater
That is really neat.
I need to make some room for one of these...looks like a much better option than a full on forge, for me.
It’s such a great tool!! I use it all the time and my forge sits idle!
@@MakeEverything I bet! The convenience alone is worth the money.
A height adjustable table for maintaining the horizontal orientation to the coil would save you being a human clamp for the workpiece.
Really great tool -- Thanks for the video. Too bad such a tool cost is beyond most hobbiests and small shops, but for a decent size business it would be great!
I wonder if an old inverter welder could be repurposed and modified into an inverter heater like the one in the video.
Great video. Always super informative. Can see how useful this would be. Surprised Jimmy doesn't have one. : ) Mahalo for sharing! : )
Double safety glasses 11:40
Joshua DeLisle just did a video on using a new induction forge too. His seemed to have lost insulation material...
Very impressive! When you make your own coils would you please make a video of the process. Coiling tubing in clean, uniform coils without crushing the tubing is not easy. Do you need to monitor the temperature of the tubing? Even with cooling the melting point of copper is pretty low compared to steel. I assume that you use distilled water so you don't get mineral deposits. Do you need any chemicals to prevent corrosion?
I really enjoy watching and learning from your videos. You are an excellent teacher.
Bob
On my DIY induction forge, I use a commercial TIG torch coolant mix which as far as I can tell from the data sheet is just gylcol antifreeze with some corrosion inhibitors but without the colorant, but regular distilled water works fine as well...
I think i remember an episode of how it's made on trumpets, they freeze ice inside and bend it cold. I think you can also fill with sand and cap the ends to prevent the tube from collapsing. I'm really interested to see the process as well.
Tubing benders are fairly cheap. Like for car brake lines. I believe most of those go up to half inch which im pretty sure is the size these coils are.
Very informative video! Thanks.
Re insulated coils, the Fiberglass will burn and go and fire eventually, if you can get Mica tape in your country use it its good to twice the temp 900-1,000°C. You can also use zirconium oxide based paint that is completely heat proof 1,800°C very expensive but you can buy zirconium oxide powder add silicate (waterglass) and bake it on and save a fortune with non sparking coils.
That’s crazy cool!
How did you secure the power cord to the machine? How did you deal with the ground being so far from the power terminals?
I put the connections in a metal junction box with clamp connectors to avoid them getting pulled out. For the ground I followed Derek meltons website and ran a ground cable from the internal ground lug up to my cable. Worked well and is very clean
@@MakeEverythingthanks!
I used your junction box method. It worked great. Here is a link to a video I made describing the process.
ruclips.net/video/RiI7ib2Y5Ns/видео.htmlsi=-WRHj8zxzbFRT0BZ
Thanks for your input
Every single second matters. Image over 10 years what this will do for your end line!!! 🧔
I am ready to get one for my home set up. I'm new to this and need to learn which wire to buy, which kind of male plug for end, etc. I'm having an electrician do the outlets and run the ejector in the wall. He hasn't seen this before, so would appreciate any pointers. I've looked online extensively and can't seem to get what I need.
That's actually pretty solid filter criteria. I'm often shocked at how high end of machines coming out of China don't have the money for a decent translator. If you watch Ramsey's customs, that guy is importing half million dollar machines three four times a year and even those don't have legible instructions. Any Chinese company that has it together enough to get proper instructions translated, I suppose they would be one of the better companies.
Oh, another question I’m not clear on, does the coil itself get hot at all?
I wonder what it would take to make a crude DIY induction forge like that?
How much current does this induction heater use? I understand that it will heat ferrous stock faster and in a more concentrated area than a traditional forge, but at what cost in electricity?
So can you have more spread out coil so it heats a larger area at once? I guess it would take longer but you wouldn’t have to keep moving it as much maybe.
Probably shouldnt spread it much at all to have more even heating. Would probably be better to jus add more coils/loops
Your machine came with Metric fittings, while Me in Europe ended up with 9/16 fitting that are near impossible to find over here.
It is a bit more expensive, and a bit more specialized than my forge, but definitely seems like a good tool.
..safer version of furnace.. awesome
هل يمكن لهذه الالة صهر الحديد حتا يذوب وكم تستهلك من الامبير
2:40 minecraft torch
Здравствуйте скажите пожалуйста как зделать чтобы монитор обнулить ? У меня паказивают на холостом ходу -36
👍👍
This seems like a really bad idea considering we don't have a comprehensive understanding of the effects of EMF on human tissues. I hope I'm just paranoid.
Professional comments forger here that hole is too small.
WOW, that is so cool, or hot, LOL...
It’d be cool to play with, but $1800 will buy ALOT of oxygen and acetylene
I think the real savings on this is in propane for those who use a gas forge. Derek melton wrote in his article that he’s saving almost $100 a month on propane fills. For me, the convenience in Gonna be huge!!
True, the induction unit will also not do stainless or non-ferrous (unless you want to melt them in a crucible) and a torch is useful for other things, but if you do a lot of mild steel work and can afford to add it to your arsenal, the induction saves so much time and effort in the workshop that it is well justified IMO.. Even one saved trip across town to the gas supplier, wrestling with tanks in my small car is justification enough for me...
Actually, you can forge stainless And non-ferrous with these machines
*Another* *awesome* *video* ❤️❤️*I* *just* *made* *my* *first* *$20,000* *in* *cryptocurrency* *I'm* *so* *glad* *I'm* *gonna* *have* *a* *successful* *retirement.*
@Felix Karl bitcoin cloud isn't the best, mining bitcoin isn't as easy as it seems... it takes much strategies and analysis.
the $20,000 I just made isn't from my professionalism. I trade with a prof. Mr. Felix Hartmann, I've been trading with him for half a year now.
.