Dress Historian Recreates Margaret Tudor's French Hoods
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- Опубликовано: 6 май 2021
- The famous Tudor era French Hood is frequently misunderstood and a challenge for new and experienced costumers alike. Thankfully, we have the amazing, knowledgeable dress historian and historical costume maker Perin from Isabel Northwode Costumes to teach us all about them!
Join us for this special edition as she teaches us how these wonderful and mysterious garments developed from earlier medieval hoods, how they could have been made, and why they're a much easier costuming project than you might have thought - all by looking at new and exciting historical resources from Renaissance Scotland!
Dig out your silk velvet and your finest linen (or a tea towel) and get ready!
Find us elsewhere:
Perin's site: www.perinwesterhofnyman.com
Insta: @isabel.northwode and @littlewelshviking
Patreon: / jimmyjohnson
Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/thewelshviking
~~~
Reading and images:
Records of the Parliaments of Scotland
www.rps.ac.uk
Book of Hours of James IV and Margaret Tudor (Codex 1897, Austrian National Library) full digitised manuscript
digital.onb.ac.at/RepViewer/v...
~
Hoods and Portraits:
beaux-arts.dijon.fr/sites/def...
www.wga.hu/html/g/gossart/10p...
gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ma...
www.wga.hu/html/p/provost/por...
www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/...
www.nationaltrustcollections.o...
www.photo.rmn.fr/C.aspx?VP3=S...
britishlibrary.typepad.co.uk/...
www.npg.org.uk/collections/se...
mary-tudor.blogspot.com/2011/0...
~
Earlier hoods:
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv...
gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv...
~
Coifs:
www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O2...
www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/...
gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv...
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
~
Further secondary reading:
Michelle L. Beer, '"Translating" a Queen: Material Culture and the Creation of Margaret Tudor as Queen of Scots' in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 10, ed. Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker (Woodbridge, 2014).
Maria Hayward, Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII (Oakville, 2007)
Karen Margrethe Høskuldsson, 'Hidden in Plain Black: The Secrets of the French Hood' in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 14, ed. Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker (Woodbridge, 2018)
Caroline Johnson, The Queen's Servants: Gentlewomen's Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII (Lightwater, 2011)
Melanie Schuessler Bond, 'French Hoods: Development of a Sixteenth-Century Court Fashion' in Medieval Clothing and Textiles 5, ed. Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker (Woodbridge, 2009)
~~~
Jimmy's business and collab email: thewelshviking1@gmail.com
Letters, parcels, packages?
The Welsh Viking,
PO Box 821,
YORK,
YO1 0PY
whenever i see a costuming/dress history video why does my brain allways go to 'how could i wear this in day to day life??'
I think a better question is "why aren't I wearing this in day to day life?"
@@lynn858 agreed 😊
I"m American Muslim and I'm wondering how I could wear this as my hijab instead of the usual scarf and I think I'm gonna do this!
@@lailadawn8122 a mix of the two could work really well and look super cute i had friends in school who would wear their hijab in a way that looks actually quite similar to this just with layering scarfs >.
@@persephoneolympia3078 Yes definitely! I think using modern materials you could get something really unique and cute as well as modest.
"I took the measurements for my head using a tea towel"
And a Gimlet's Hole Food Delicatessen tea towel at that; you are clearly a woman of culture!
Don't forget the ketchup!
I HAVE THIS VERY TEA TOWEL.
I might have misread the title as "Margaret Thatcher's French Hoods" and subsequently might have been very confused for a hot second...
Yay new video though!
@@nartyteek oh she was very much of her era.
I like the way the sources are displayed and admire the level of research put into this. But here's the thing that stuck the most: Perin, your voice and manner of speech is extraordinarily pleasant. I would love to watch more videos with you purely to be able to hear your voice. Learning stuff would just be an added (yet greatly appreciated) bonus.
Ankh-Morpork!!! Good Tea towel!!!
Wow, you'ld think she was a seasoned RUclips person. Excellent presentation ! Clear pleasant voice, interesting, well researched content. Great visuals (loved the tea towel!)
On a scale of 1 to 10, I'll give it an Eleven !
Thanks, Jimmy !
Thanks Perin!
I agree with this, I was sad that there wasn't a link to her RUclips channel in the description! Dr. Perin, if you decide to start a channel, I'll definitely subscribe, and I think a lot of us here would as well.
I've watched this three times already, and see myself revisiting it several times in the future. Great information, well-presented. Thank you!
Except for the constant “ummm”.
Excellent info , the best I’ve seen on the Tudor hood.
The indecisiveness of the ummmms were distracting and unnecessary.
@XenusMama MOST people will do the "umm" while being filmed the first few times. Getting filmed can be nerve-wracking. I am sure they will get better each and every time. I encourage them. (P.s. it costs nothing to be kind. This world needs more kind people!)
I love her. I want more Perin content.
Who else wants to immediately make a hood and is wondering how to find reasons to wear one?
(While simultaneously singing Sosban Fach internally.👀)
Forget "find a reason", just DO it!!!
I think I need one to wear to church…
This was brilliant! As a Scottish person (from Scotland) I feel that genuine interest & quality research is what’s important, not where you’re from or your heritage - I’d rather watch an informed video like this one from a professional than a lazy, uninformed one even if the presenter was from Scotland.
This video is an absolute treasure trove of information, thankyou so much! I love that such an iconic noble garment has directly evolved from the commoners hood.
Oh, Perin is Dutch? A fellow Dutchie! Thank you Jimmy, for giving Perin room on your channel! Have they been on your channel more, and / or will they? Perin seems lovely 🧡
I LOVED knowing that women have always been interested in style and have been savvy enough to figure out multiple ways to wear a piece of clothing! You’re very good at teaching- well prepared, well spoken and you have a darling smile. Thank you for an enjoyable 30 minutes!
Thank you for giving up your screen time to Perin :) This was interesting. I am always intrigued by the intricacies - and cost - of earlier fashion. The sheer amount of time and effort put into those three items to make that headdress. So simple, and yet so beautifully done 😍
Very interesting program. What I find the most delightful is that you can now get a PhD in historic dress. Topics such as clothing were deemed too frivolous for academic research when I was in college, the closest you could get was a paper on sumptuary laws and even then, it had to focus on the laws and not the fashion.
Just watched Samantha Bullat's vlog on her essays into the French hood, so of course, I was interested to see this pop up on Jimmy's channel! Your own research--especially into the Scottish royal wardrobe entries--is fascinating in what it contributes to knowledge of the components of the hood. The side-by-side visual from liripipe closed hood to open hood to early French hood was mind-opening, and really explained the flipping back to show the lining of the hood bit that, for me--having looked at and created a lot of Tudor costumes for madrigal dinners--is new information in understanding the French hood. Also, as others pointed out, it was a delight to watch your presentation and I hope you will be doing more vlogs in future.
I've done some pretty advanced millinery and was daunted! This is such a logical progression, beautiful presentation Perin
Thanks for featuring Perin! This was very insightful and makes much more sense than other interpretations. Thanks for a clear and scholarly presentation! More Perin please!
I've always loved french hoods and even made one in a millinery class I took but mine was very structured with buckram based on a painting of Mary Tudor. I never considered they were derived from hoods with lirepipes! Duh! Makes perfect sense to me now! Wonderful video! Thank you Jimmy and Isabel!
This is super neat!
Thank you, Perin, for the easy to follow rundown; and thank you, Jimmy, for lending her your channel to share such goodies with us!
I personally would enjoy if this was added to the regular schedule. There were a dozen topics covered here that could have each been its own episode. Maybe every so often we have a comparison discussion? Tudors and vikings what stayed the same, what changed? Thank you for the wonderful discussion and for sharing your research.
Wait a minute, is it monday? ...Jimmy, you mess up my internal calendar!
Thanks for the interesting video!
Very interesting and thorough. I loved it. Things worn on the head are so important. I always say the history of mankind is a long sequence of silly hats, but pretty hats exist too!
wow... I had always thought that it looked as if there was a wooden frame or something that made this "hood" more like a headpiece like a tiara!
So did I
This was fascinating. I've always wondered how exactly they were made - all I knew was that they weren't the headbands most movie/tv shows seem to think they were!
Thank You so much! Perrin, you rock! That said, I've made 2 caps, both modeled after St Birgitta's. I'm glad to see that my instinct to avoid the lace center piece wasn't a total boo boo.
Thank You both for such wonderful inspiration. Huge hugs from Minnesota, USA.
oooh, very informative, an unexpected pleasure to have Perin with us today :)
Great video! I had no idea that hoods were so complex. As a Canadian myself, I feel that we should study topics of interest to us.
This is an excellent video, extremely informative and clear. This was also eerily timed--I went down a minor rabbit-hole last night looking up differences between early modern/post-medieval fashion in England and Scotland. So, all this to say: Thank you!
Also, as someone who started lockdown with lower-back-length hair and now has "Oooops, I sat on it" hair, your statement that having the longer hair can actually be a hindrance really resonated with me. My hair-taping experiments are ongoing.
It was interesting discovery to me in your video, that outlining a head & half faceline with gold, red and black colors, with different fabrics, makes a woman's face look beautiful even without makeup.
So early, the tudors are still reigning
(also forget about Jimmy, I'm now a Perin fan)
My friend, we live in the future! Both is an option!
Now now, no one's saying you can't be a fan of both...
What is this ? Monday ?!
Thank you for this video, it's lovely to see some of Perin's amazing work, and to learn from her. And thank you for all the sources in the description !
Genuinely educational, not at all how I'd imagined these were constructed.
This is wonderful. Thank you for sharing your scholarship.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
This is fascinating! Also, looks great honestly. Let's bring hoods back, they seem like a cool option for ppl with thin hair....
Either way, thank you for sharing your research!
I'm dying to see the whole frock and outfit. As for the hood, great for the chilly scottish winters, but looking a bit warm for today.
This changes my entire perception of hoods! I am entranced. Thank you, Jimmy.
Enjoyed the presentation I think some historians forget that people have slightly different head shapes and hair. I cannot comfortably wear a woolly hat they fall off even when secured But I can wear for hours a brimmed sunhat or anything that sits back. So in the past I am sure women adapted. fashion as they do now. It strikes me that that going down your back will help from draughts .
brilliantly calm and clear explanation and no performing tweeness that so often annoys when watching historical costuming videos ardderchog !
Me: searches "easy Ren faire headdress" for a community theatre play.
Also me: Develops extremely strong opinions on the most historically plausible construction of Tudor hoods.
Seriously, this is fantastic content, and exactly the sort of video that catches my attention. Thank you for all your excellent research.
Enjoyed this video so much! Would love to see more Scottish dress history ❤️.
I'm currently teaching my 8 almost 9 year old daughter to sew. I had her start practicing with buttons first and scrap fabric. I think I'll try and make hoods for both of us, maybe I'll help her make her own. Seems like a fun project. I think sewing is a practical skill and a lost art form. My embroidery skills need improvement, some of your examples were gorgeous examples of stitching.
As you said, I was never afraid of 16th century gown construction, but the headwear scared the crap out of me. Now between your video and the other recent one, I want to try one! So thanks for that!
That's funny, I'm the opposite. I love making the hats, hoods, bonnets etc, but the dresses intimidate me to no end!
I must admit that the hood part of a Tudor outfit was always a bit intimidating! This breakdown has really helped make it a lot more accessible.
This was marvelous! When you mentioned the tea towel, I immediately flashed back to early West Kingdom SCA Collegia, with Mistress Hilary of Serendip discussing practical headgear and literally pinning tea towels and old fashioned single layer diapers to her head (over a linen band, of course)! 😂 Pretty sure that was the same weekend I learned how to make a dress form by wrapping myself tightly in duct tape over at shirt, and cutting it off (yes, with help!) Historical costuming has come a long way in 40 years or so! LOL
Thanks, Perin, and thanks @WelshViking!
Before duct tape patterns… in the late 60’s we wore Jessica’s gunne sax dresses to events !
Get in kids, its 2021 and we're bringing hoods back
Fascinating. I've never thought of the construction of these hoods and what they were called in different countries. As a Scot, I need to delve more thoroughly into our history in general as well as specifically. When I was at school we weren't really taught much Scottish history.
Lovely! I never looked so closely at Tudor women's head coverings or realized that they were made in separate, easy pieces. De-mystifies them!
I always had a theory that the arched veils and liripipe hoods that were seen in later 1400's converted into the geometric English hood and softer rounded shaped of the French/Flemish/Scottish hood. Congratulations on the research, this opens up many possibilities. Best part is there are lots of options for styling, most based on class but others not so much. Quite impressed!
Awesome information! I had just watched Samantha's video on the early French hood, so this dovetailed beautifully into that. Thank you for the sources, too! Awesome material for further research.
I wonder how the "bonnet and frontlet" (AKA, gabled hood) fits into this evolution of the French and Flemish hood into the shaffron and hood.
Thank you , Jimmy, for hosting this awesome video, and thank you, Perin, for making it!
Hi Anna! Perin here. The gabled hood and French hood develop concurrently and are to some extent a question of regional differences, but there's also evidence of them dovetailing. There's at least one entry for a 'frontlet for a hood' in the Scottish Treasurer's Accounts from the first decade of the sixteenth century (I say 'at least one' because the surviving accounts are extremely sparse for that period) - no further description on exactly what this looked like, unfortunately. The Scottish Book of Hours of James IV and Margaret Tudor was illuminated in Flanders, probably between 1503 and 1507, and mostly shows a frontlet and 'veil' style rather than a liripipe style, so this style would at least have been familiar in Scotland. And of course Margaret and the attendants she brought from England would have been familiar with English styles of hoods, and perhaps wearing them, when they arrived in Scotland in 1503. But then when Margaret goes back to visit England in 1516, she specifically wears the liripipe style! So I think all three main hood types are being transmitted back and forth consistently between different areas in this period, and they're all affecting how the others develop - none of them appears in isolation.
This is how things should be presented with hands on practical stuff along with with clear explanation and relevant information popping up from time to time its keeps you engaged
2 French Hood videos within a week, you and Samantha Bullat, Now I need a Hood to go with my Tudor dress.... that I need to get back into shape to wear! Thanks!!
Thank you Perin for that delightful and thorough explanation! :) Thank you Jimmy for introducing us! (And only the SLIGHTEST bit of sass in the edit!) :)
Beautiful and very informative. I love seeing the old paintings brought to life.
So much information for free, thank you very much. Perin has a very nice podcast voice ;)
Thank you for this breakdown of these hoods. They look a lot more complicated than they are, if/when I get back to SCA, I might try some Tudor era now that the hood has been demystified .
Woohoo! Go Dutchies!🇳🇱
I had no previous interest in these hoods but now I really want to make one😅
Amazing video and presentation. It's always fascinating how interesting a topic can be that is neither in my period nor an object I would need to research on for myself.
It really looks beautiful and true to the images.
Awesome project, we look forward to seeing more videos like this from you guys 😁👍
Made a 15th century hood with long liripipe many years ago, surprised how easily it stayed on my head. It was fascinating to see how that garment evolved into the"French hood."
Seeing the hoods on a person makes a big difference! Thank you also for talking about construction and settling the hoods in different styles. Very cool.
Thank you for sharing, this was very interesting and has now only sparked a desire in me to be able to delve even deeper. As a Flemish person, I notice there is so much about Flemish dress history that I don't have a clue about and that I don't find a lot of Dutch language sources on, online. Even the English to Dutch terminology (e.g. liripipe) requires quite a persistent google search to find, though many of the images you show are paintings by Flemish primitives and portray local people. This video made me contemplate also the history of different nun's headdresses and how they have evolved, since I've come across a few extreme looking, interesting, even futuristic shapes. I hope you make more videos about hoods! Greetings from Ireland
It depends on what era you're into, but there's a wonderful collection catalogue from the Morgan Library from a few years ago called 'Illuminating Fashion: Dress in the Art of France and the Netherlands, 1325-1515' that has a lot of commentary on dress terms and sources in those regions. I highly recommend it if you can find a copy. It's huge, and it wasn't cheap, but it was worth it imo!
The organ makes me as happy as the content.
I'm an amateur and fashion student and have been hyperfocusing on the transition from liripipe hoods to gabled/english hoods for the last couple months and this video has only fueled that interest. fantastic content and research. I am also trying to make my own hood in the open style with the wide long liripipe like you showed early in the video and just finished my kirtle. thanks for more inspo and a great video
Thank you for this mini lecture. It's surprising how such a relatively simple garment could be so versatile! And they look deceptively more complicated than they actually are, too. Also, every time a piece of clothing or an accessory is worn in various ways, it makes me wonder if they were sending subtle messages to each other with it. xD
Finally carved out some time to watch this and was not dissapointed!! I think in the end there were probably as many ways to decorate and wear hoods as women who wore them! I loved all the little changes like flipping back the hood or just tying a lace and how much of a difference it made!
I love the amount of research that has gone into this project. I'm really impressed by the presenter and her project. Thoroughly enjoyable! I wonder if all the white linens and white silks that were used as linings in order to protect the lady's hair from being stained by the dyes?
I'm late to the party, but more Perin and other amazing historians, please. She is amazing and I keep hearing stories and references in other videos to other people that you know that sound amazing as well.
Lovely bonus video! I especially appreciate the nods to hair length and skill level.
And now I have an image of Jimmy is his mail and one of these. :)
You look extremely friendly. You look like the sort of person who is genuine, and pleasant, and nice. I like you.
Cheers. It's interesting to see how versitile the hood is.
Cead Mille Failte! I declare you an honorary Scot. From a 100% Scottish lady living just outside Edinburgh ❤
What a lovely surprise! And pins, always pins!
Between this and Samantha Bullat, it must be French Hood Week! Love it!! Thank you Perin for such a well-thought-out video!
Also it’s interesting on how long hair needs to be- mine is just getting long enough to sit on. I like taping my hair up as an everyday look with the braids on top of my head. They’re starting to get too long to easily brace to tape down without extra help.
Absolutely loved this video! Sat trying to hem a viking age tunic for my son when it came on while I was binge watching Jimmy's channel, found myself transfixed, also stabbing my finger far more than usual as I had to keep looking up! And now I want to try one just for the hell of it!
Fascinating! Thank you SO MUCH for your video - beautiful Hood ^*^
You know I find the whole "research your own history" thought kind of trite since my local university tried to do a "indigenous people aren't allowed to research themselves becuase it creates Bias" argument. Dammed if you do...
I would expect as long as the scientific method is followed that there wouldn't be an issue at all and research shouldn't be gatekept
Most fun when one's history has been intentionally destroyed and rewritten, and thus do people accuse one of bias whenever one's research uncovers something that doesn't make them feel good. 😑
That’s interesting. I meet a man who when he went to University to become a folklore scholar and when his teachers found out he was Mormon they encouraged him to specialize in Mormon folklore because there was not a lot of research on that group and they thought he would have better insight since it was his culture. He was resident at first because he didn’t want to be pigeonholed but also because he assumed that there was no folklore to study. But when he buckled down and started the research found out how wrong he was. He’s been studying it for over 30 years now and his teachers were right in that he had a better grasp of the folklore then an outsider would have.
I really think it’s sad that your University wouldn’t encourage indigenous students to study their own people because “western civilization” has worked so hard to deny them their own history and culture. That’s just wrong. There is power in knowing who you are and where you come from.
That being said I don’t think people should gatekeep people from studying people that they are interested in. That spark of interest is what keeps you going and it can happen when researching your own people or ones you have no blood ties to but just can’t stop learning about. Study on my scholarly friends 🧐📚
I feel like what they meant was (as someone part of whose culture is also largely studied by white people) "you might have ethics you follow and we can't have that, we need people who will desecrate things with no qualms!"
whatever university that is is absolute rubbish. one of the big pushes in (indigenous) archaeology over the last few decades has been community archaeology, specifically indigenous-lead archaeology. ooh that makes me mad
A. Maz. Ing. This is great! Thank you both so much for this video. Hearing so clearly about the progression of an item really helps reaffirm that any item which exists is potentially derivative. This really clarifies research direction!
I want to quote a crimp about logical conclusions but I shall refrain.
Can't believe it has taken me so long to discover your channel. Well done! Looking forward to watching all I have missed.
This was a delightful video. Thank you for making space in your channel for this presentation, so that I could have the pleasure of enjoying not one, but TWO videos about French Hoods in close succession. Now I greedily want a video in which Perin and Samantha compare research notes, because I imagine that such a collaboration would be *fabulous*.
It’s definitely a style I’d actually wear! And a great stash buster!
lovely study!
I had no idea I wanted to know how a french hood was made. I had no idea what french hood even was. But I guess here I am, knowing how to sew it:-D Thanks
I love historical costuming videos, and I'm so excited that you mentioned Samantha Bullat's video. If you ever start your own RUclips channel, I'll definitely subscribe!
More Perin on this channel! ❤
Thank you so much! This piece of garment has been a mystery to me until now.
This is the everyday cap I have been looking for 💖 thank you, Perin!
Well now I'm so inspired to give this a go - and of course make a whole outfit to go with it. Thank you! I hope you make more videos in the future!
Thanks for posting Perin (and thanks for hosting, Jimmy)! This makes... so much more sense. I work in historical and fantastical historical dress and so I've seen some INTENSE builds of these and a lot of headscratching over geometry, vector of woosh, buckram vs. fosshape vs. plastic canvas... but like so much of 16th c. Western European dress it seems to come down to layers and strategic pinning!
This makes me want to play around with some of these (seems a fun project to use spendy materials on since it's small), and maybe try starching or interlining with canvas to get more of that pronounced arch. Or even just the natural stiffening from multiple lines of embroidery or cord couching.
Great work, great scholarship, really inspiring stuff! (Also is this the type of hood you see in the first half of the 16th c with the veils/liripipes pinned up in neat ways?)
Thank you! There are some images of people folding the end of the liripipe up on top of their heads, if that's what you mean! :) The two veils on the gable hoods are a bit more versatile in terms of how they can be worn.
having watched the second video on this i am wondering weather we are approaching a turning point in our perception of the french hood wich makes me really exited!
also @Perin: i believe we would all love to hear more about what ever you have to say about anything^^
Removing the anxiety before diving in is a good thing. And you managed it beautifully. Thank you, Perin!
I love this so much! Between this and Samatha Bullat's video I'm really feeling the siren song of trying this myself, even though I have no real reason to have a French hood.
Fascinating video. Lovely to see all the details of what is such a familiar and iconic piece of fashion history.
I am completely baffled.
I never had any exposure to french hoods, not even the period more generally.
And yesterday I stumble down a dress historian hole, randomly clicking a video about French Hoods and a reconstruction thereof.
Now, one fecking day later, you just happen to have a guest on to talk about them.
What even is happening?
ruclips.net/video/5Cv7A8KJJuo/видео.html
Thats the video I was looking at.
4 Days old.
Apparently this is french hood season?
clearly the algorithm wants you to learn about the best stuff ever, medieval and renaissance history! the best
Wow so much knowledge. Thanks for sharing your research. Loved seeing it showcased too.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I found you through Izabela Pitcher of Prior Attire. Now I feel like I could actually make this.
This is all so interesting! Thank you for showing your research, your style of presentation is so engaging and interesting, and also calming.
A truly fascinating video. I'm just getting interested in costuming so videos like this are absolutely invaluable.
I love that you did this. I've been following your research on Instagram and it makes me so happy
13:56 the gold silk organza is SO PRETTY on your hair!
This was terrific! So clear.