Anvil Stand Upgrade

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  • Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
  • What's up everybody!?! I finally upgraded my anvil stand! I've had numerous comments about the anvil ringing and about losing energy, so I finally did something about it. Thanks for watching!
    Video edited by Alex Robinson
    Patreon: / rockingeforge
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Комментарии • 13

  • @timb37
    @timb37 16 дней назад +4

    Silicone 100% helps the ring. I find it helps if you set the anvil down while it's wet, but don't tighten it till it fully cures (2 days)

  • @PeggyEaton-z2f
    @PeggyEaton-z2f 16 дней назад

    Fascinating video!

  • @Phollum
    @Phollum 17 дней назад +1

    Another solid video man😎, moving the magnet def helps, In my adventures for mounting I've found the best luck with chain both for noise & stability but have def seen a bar style mount like this many times and almost did same. Keep up the good work,
    Happy Hammering

    • @rockingeforge
      @rockingeforge  17 дней назад

      I was amazed how much of a difference moving the magnet under the heel made. I've had it on the side for uears to no avail and I never considered moving it because it blocks my pritchell hole. But, it damps out the ring so much, it's incredible.

  • @TalRohan
    @TalRohan 16 дней назад +1

    Farriers anvils are generally a bit more ringy than other anvils with a heavier waist.
    I have 3 anvil shaped anvils a 175 london pattern that barely rings now its mounted and has a magnet on it, a double horn anvil at about 225lb that rings like a churchbell even with magnets because its narrow waisted and has long horns and a 525lb london pattern anvil that doesnt ring much even when its free standing because the waist is so massive, I can make it ring by using the end of the horn but magnets sort that out mostly.
    Two or more strong magnets is the way to go because the magnetic fields cross over and interfere with each other, nullifying vibration, you can usually stick a lot of magnets to any anvil almost anywhere you want (hardy and pritchel holes taken into account) and they will if strong enough make a lot of difference.
    I use a chain too because I like a dull thud when I work, those ringing hits set off my ears (Tinnitis is no joke)

    • @rockingeforge
      @rockingeforge  16 дней назад +1

      I have always worn earplugs. Haha.

    • @TalRohan
      @TalRohan 15 дней назад

      @@rockingeforge I wear ear defenders, my tinnitis was caused by an ear infection but that ring can still affect me even through the ear defenders sometimes

  • @wesking5600
    @wesking5600 15 дней назад +1

    Good video. I think???? Not real sure but you wrap the chain around the anvil as you’ve done but anchor the ends of the chain directly to the stump that’ll help a lot

  • @BrandonGrahamForge
    @BrandonGrahamForge 17 дней назад +1

    Thank you for your efforts. I was so happy to see this video come out. I'm also working on mounting my first anvil and thinking of solid but portable stand. I wonder if a gasket material or a thin rubber or leather pad under the anvil may help? I don't think it would significantly affect the rebound or properties.
    I've also always wondered about protruding rubber dampers on parts of the anvil, similar to the dampers on a compound bow. Again, I'm still setting up so haven't tried it yet. Thanks for the great content!

    • @Phollum
      @Phollum 17 дней назад +1

      some nice beads of silicone as you mount it is your best bet for underlayment. Chain is another wonderful mounting tool and noise reducer as well w/ many ways to utilize it. And a fat magnet on the horn as mentioned in the video helps a ton

    • @rockingeforge
      @rockingeforge  17 дней назад

      Thanks for watching! As Phollum mention, a beed of silicone would be excellent. But, it would basically glue your anvil down. If you're trying to keep it separable, I'd try using a piece of leather underneath for sure. That said, the magnet under the heel made the biggest difference in reducing the ring, so maybe try getting or moving your magnet around (if you have one already).

  • @allangoodger969
    @allangoodger969 5 дней назад +1

    Set up two straightedges say 100x50 RHS steel so you can make a router sled and using a straight shank router bit. Search "How to Build A Slab / Stump Leveling Jig" and "Router Sled - Build Under an Hour!". I bought a Surfacing Router Bit with carbide bits for our Australian hardwoods but went through them big time. As a "blacky" (Australian slang for a blacksmith) you shouldn't have a problem rigging something up. Not forging too much at the moment, way too bloody hot to be near hot metal, 40 deg C. Have a good one mate. 🦘🦘🦘

    • @rockingeforge
      @rockingeforge  5 дней назад

      Thanks! That's a great idea! When I go back to adjust the level, I'll keep this in mind!