It definitively feels like Tenaya have risen the bar pretty significantly with the Indalo, taking the best of what they’ve done already - then doing something even better
In my spreadsheet of 50+ models I’ve tried/owned, my notes on Tenaya always state ‘Tenaya sizing is stupid’. EU 45 in Instinct VS, street shoe size 46. Have to go down to a 42 for Tenaya’s. Even then there’s deadspace in the heel. :’) I do love them for friends that fit them well, as the comfort-to-performance ratio of them seems amazing.
La Sportiva sizing is similarly out of kilter. I guess I can sympathise with the vagaries of fit, because that’s confusing - and why it’s so important to try a shoe on - but when it comes to size - surely it just comes down to length?! That said, if they were all accurately sized I’d have one thing less to say within reviews such as this, so maybe it’s a good thing they’re all over the place - at least it keeps me in a job 😅
@@ukclimbingofficial Very true when it comes to LaSpo! But with them the down-sizing for me (Skwama's size 43) is with the expectation of them stretching. With Tenaya 43 ends up feeling strangely baggy. I think it's the heel volume/achilles space for me. Still, I already have too many of both the Skwama's and the Instincts (though I still need that Instinct S you were raving about...), so my bank account should be thanking them.
See, Tenaya sizing has made sense for me with Scarpa and La Sportiva. Give me a pair of Furia Airs, and I am down 4 EU sizes, Instincts is 2.5, and the Oasi and Mastia both seemed good at 2.5 to 3.
@@zacharylaschober The Furia Air is quite a specialist and unique example, as it's so soft that it can morph to the size of your foot - even if it's 4 x EU sizes too small. If you were to go down the same number of sizes in something like the Instinct or Vapour (i.e. something with structure) I doubt you'd be able to get them on!!
@@the.Aruarian It's amazing how something like a slight variation in fit, such as what you've described with the heel volume, can turn a shoe from being brilliant to bad. It's such a subtle art to finding the right shoe!!
It’s definitely wider than the Iati and has quite a different fit and feel as a result of this. Performance-wise is a massive step-up though, being stiffer throughout the front and more flexible throughout the middle. All-in-all it’s a very different shoe to the Iati. The Indalo has a much more modern, performance oriented feel.
I always thought the Mastia had a similar width to the Scarpa Instinct VS/VSR, so the Indalo would come in a little narrower than that. If there’s a specific shoe you’re thinking of let me know.
I’d say much wider than the Katana and a bit wider than the Skwama. There’s a fair few similarities with the Skwama now that I think about it, so if you got on with those then it’d definitely be worth trying on the Indalo too. Both great shoes and superb all-rounders.
A little less wide than the Mastia sounds very good, since Oasi and Iati are too narrow for my feet (and the green one, Mundaka, is baggy in the heel and feels overall strange compared to the two). The mastia... doen't matter how small you get them, they are too large (in any direction) and in the heel, under the ankles, etc. Like the normal Skwama. BUT: Skwama Women's feel so good, they suck so much around my feet - halleluija! jus tthe heel could suck up to the heel a bit faster with a little less volume around. They are good-ok for me, but not perfect. The Mastia was BY FAR the most comfortable climbing shoe I ever had on my feet - knowing basically every sportiva and scarpa shoe und half of five ten (usa) ones. Is the Indalo also so comfy? Could the shape be like the Skwama Women's? But if i hear big heel volume, my hope for the perfect fitting climbing shoe goes to zero, once again. Also, Sportiva stoppped making the "Women's" versions of their shoes up to 43 - just 42. Also with the models which had up to 43 in the past (Women's Miura VS, Otaki, Kataki, etc). I would really need a Skwama WomenÄs in 42,5 for my larger right 45,5 foot. I already size a half size down from my Sportiva size (-2,5 EU per foot), since i feel like the Skwama fits even larger than the other sportiva shoes, but that half size would make a huge difference for me. I also have an uneven pair of Oraki Women's, which are basically just Otaki (blue ones) with XS Grip 2 instead of XS Edge out of the box. There is no difference in volume etc, although the inner lining is a bit more comfy, they feel a quater (half of a half) size larger. Also the midsole could(!) probably a little less stiff in the yellow Otaki Women's than in the blue Otaki men/unisex, but i don't know that, i just remeber from the past such things like 1,1mm LaSpoFlex midsole vs 0,8mm LaSpoFlex midsole in the Women's model. Also The Miura VS Women's has the same volume like the yellow men's/unisex version. Also, Sportiva says that there are no differences in shape, volume, size of the Women's version of the shoes, they are just softer for the lighter climbers. JUSt the Skwama Women's has a much lower volume than the regular one! I know it because i had all those shoes on my feet. So, to sum it up: how would the Indalo compared to the Skwama Women's be like? :)
Yeah, but as all Tenaya's, they are a pain in the a** to resole. Unfortunately, the construction of their shoes isn't build to last, or to be resoleable....
I’m hoping that more brands follow Scarpa and La Sportiva’s lead in designing shoes that are specifically built with re-soling in mind. The demand for this is definitely out there and I suspect it’ll soon become something that ‘end users’ (aka climbers) will start to demand.
@@ukclimbingofficial The fact that they provide spare parts for the resolers doesn't mean that all the models are equally suitable for this kind of repair. For instance, you can get up to 5 mm of extra rubber with original Solution replacement sole (making it 9mm thick in total). No Edge patches also seem to be hard to put in a way the original shape of the shoe is retained. I would say that in general Scarpa does it significantly better, maybe thanks to less sophisticated shape of their soles in general.
Terrible stiching. I've worn my Indalos for less than 10 indoor sessions and the stiching on the tongue is coming apart already. The rubber on the shoes will outlast the shoe itself at this rate. Great performing shoes, terrible quality control. Definitely my last pair of Tenayas - I'll stick with La Sportiva.
@@ukclimbingofficial I had the same problem, the tongue broke less than a month into using them. Tenaya ignored my messages, and only replied to the retail partner brushing off my concern, saying that the tongues should not be pulled on (???) and that this defect is therefore not covered under the warranty. Since I spent 160 EUR on these shoes, I am super unhappy with this response and very disappointed with Tenaya, I regret recommending this shoe to my friends now...
Had a chance to try the Indalo yet? Let us know what you think!
Best shoe I've had so far. Next level hybrid from the Iati and Mastia.
It definitively feels like Tenaya have risen the bar pretty significantly with the Indalo, taking the best of what they’ve done already - then doing something even better
Bought mine today, trying them for the first time tomorrow! Super excited, they feel perfect for me
In my spreadsheet of 50+ models I’ve tried/owned, my notes on Tenaya always state ‘Tenaya sizing is stupid’. EU 45 in Instinct VS, street shoe size 46. Have to go down to a 42 for Tenaya’s. Even then there’s deadspace in the heel. :’) I do love them for friends that fit them well, as the comfort-to-performance ratio of them seems amazing.
La Sportiva sizing is similarly out of kilter. I guess I can sympathise with the vagaries of fit, because that’s confusing - and why it’s so important to try a shoe on - but when it comes to size - surely it just comes down to length?! That said, if they were all accurately sized I’d have one thing less to say within reviews such as this, so maybe it’s a good thing they’re all over the place - at least it keeps me in a job 😅
@@ukclimbingofficial Very true when it comes to LaSpo! But with them the down-sizing for me (Skwama's size 43) is with the expectation of them stretching. With Tenaya 43 ends up feeling strangely baggy. I think it's the heel volume/achilles space for me. Still, I already have too many of both the Skwama's and the Instincts (though I still need that Instinct S you were raving about...), so my bank account should be thanking them.
See, Tenaya sizing has made sense for me with Scarpa and La Sportiva. Give me a pair of Furia Airs, and I am down 4 EU sizes, Instincts is 2.5, and the Oasi and Mastia both seemed good at 2.5 to 3.
@@zacharylaschober The Furia Air is quite a specialist and unique example, as it's so soft that it can morph to the size of your foot - even if it's 4 x EU sizes too small. If you were to go down the same number of sizes in something like the Instinct or Vapour (i.e. something with structure) I doubt you'd be able to get them on!!
@@the.Aruarian It's amazing how something like a slight variation in fit, such as what you've described with the heel volume, can turn a shoe from being brilliant to bad. It's such a subtle art to finding the right shoe!!
i have the Iati and i love them, how does the Indalo compare? is it wider? stiffer or softer?
It’s definitely wider than the Iati and has quite a different fit and feel as a result of this. Performance-wise is a massive step-up though, being stiffer throughout the front and more flexible throughout the middle. All-in-all it’s a very different shoe to the Iati. The Indalo has a much more modern, performance oriented feel.
@@ukclimbingofficial thank you, that means i can order the same size as the iati
@@SileDevil You might want to try the Indalo a half size up, if you can, as there's a bit of a discrepancy between the scale used to size each of them
Any idea how the width compares to comparable models besides the Mastia?
I always thought the Mastia had a similar width to the Scarpa Instinct VS/VSR, so the Indalo would come in a little narrower than that. If there’s a specific shoe you’re thinking of let me know.
@@ukclimbingofficial Any thoughts relative to the Skwama or Katana?
I’d say much wider than the Katana and a bit wider than the Skwama. There’s a fair few similarities with the Skwama now that I think about it, so if you got on with those then it’d definitely be worth trying on the Indalo too. Both great shoes and superb all-rounders.
A little less wide than the Mastia sounds very good, since Oasi and Iati are too narrow for my feet (and the green one, Mundaka, is baggy in the heel and feels overall strange compared to the two).
The mastia... doen't matter how small you get them, they are too large (in any direction) and in the heel, under the ankles, etc. Like the normal Skwama.
BUT: Skwama Women's feel so good, they suck so much around my feet - halleluija! jus tthe heel could suck up to the heel a bit faster with a little less volume around. They are good-ok for me, but not perfect.
The Mastia was BY FAR the most comfortable climbing shoe I ever had on my feet - knowing basically every sportiva and scarpa shoe und half of five ten (usa) ones.
Is the Indalo also so comfy? Could the shape be like the Skwama Women's?
But if i hear big heel volume, my hope for the perfect fitting climbing shoe goes to zero, once again.
Also, Sportiva stoppped making the "Women's" versions of their shoes up to 43 - just 42. Also with the models which had up to 43 in the past (Women's Miura VS, Otaki, Kataki, etc).
I would really need a Skwama WomenÄs in 42,5 for my larger right 45,5 foot. I already size a half size down from my Sportiva size (-2,5 EU per foot), since i feel like the Skwama fits even larger than the other sportiva shoes, but that half size would make a huge difference for me.
I also have an uneven pair of Oraki Women's, which are basically just Otaki (blue ones) with XS Grip 2 instead of XS Edge out of the box. There is no difference in volume etc, although the inner lining is a bit more comfy, they feel a quater (half of a half) size larger.
Also the midsole could(!) probably a little less stiff in the yellow Otaki Women's than in the blue Otaki men/unisex, but i don't know that, i just remeber from the past such things like 1,1mm LaSpoFlex midsole vs 0,8mm LaSpoFlex midsole in the Women's model.
Also The Miura VS Women's has the same volume like the yellow men's/unisex version.
Also, Sportiva says that there are no differences in shape, volume, size of the Women's version of the shoes, they are just softer for the lighter climbers.
JUSt the Skwama Women's has a much lower volume than the regular one! I know it because i had all those shoes on my feet.
So, to sum it up: how would the Indalo compared to the Skwama Women's be like? :)
160 quid is mental
Pretty shocking isn't it, but alas - I fear it's a sign of the times!!
Yeah, but as all Tenaya's, they are a pain in the a** to resole. Unfortunately, the construction of their shoes isn't build to last, or to be resoleable....
I’m hoping that more brands follow Scarpa and La Sportiva’s lead in designing shoes that are specifically built with re-soling in mind. The demand for this is definitely out there and I suspect it’ll soon become something that ‘end users’ (aka climbers) will start to demand.
Beg to differ. I've had my Mastias and Tarifas resoled numerous times by Shoedoctor and they are still mustard.
@@ukclimbingofficial The fact that they provide spare parts for the resolers doesn't mean that all the models are equally suitable for this kind of repair. For instance, you can get up to 5 mm of extra rubber with original Solution replacement sole (making it 9mm thick in total). No Edge patches also seem to be hard to put in a way the original shape of the shoe is retained. I would say that in general Scarpa does it significantly better, maybe thanks to less sophisticated shape of their soles in general.
Terrible stiching. I've worn my Indalos for less than 10 indoor sessions and the stiching on the tongue is coming apart already. The rubber on the shoes will outlast the shoe itself at this rate.
Great performing shoes, terrible quality control. Definitely my last pair of Tenayas - I'll stick with La Sportiva.
It sounds like you got very unlucky. Did you return them, because it sounds like a genuine fault worthy of a warranty replacement.
@@ukclimbingofficial thanks for the response. Do I go to the company who sold me the shoes (BF) or directly to Tenaya? Thanks 👍
Go via BF and they’ll be able to deal with Tenaya and their UK distributor on your behalf. All fingers crossed for a positive resolution 🤞
@@ukclimbingofficial I have contacted BF - working on it as we speak. Thank you for your help 🙏
@@ukclimbingofficial I had the same problem, the tongue broke less than a month into using them. Tenaya ignored my messages, and only replied to the retail partner brushing off my concern, saying that the tongues should not be pulled on (???) and that this defect is therefore not covered under the warranty. Since I spent 160 EUR on these shoes, I am super unhappy with this response and very disappointed with Tenaya, I regret recommending this shoe to my friends now...