3D Printer Maintenance - Linear Bearings - Prusa Bear - Chris's Basement
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2024
- Today we swap out the bearings on my Prusa Bear. Hopefully this is the beginning of a series of videos. Try watching this video without giggling once, I DARE you! 😂
00:00 Introduction
01:20 Overview
06:21 Bearing Swap
18:25 Conclusion
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the video is filled with balls and rods and shafts, and top tips on lubrication and eventually getting rid of the stickiness, so by mid-video and out of habit I had found my self-checking if incognito is on 😂
Priceless comment. 😂😂😂😂
Ha!
BRILLIANT!!!!
Thanks Chis. These very general steps are usually missed by a large majority of users.... glad to see more RUclips doing these infomative videos
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
My biggest problem with cheapest bearings is that they usually don't match rods, and wobble too much. Tolerances are apparently out there. Buying matched pair like from Prusa or Misumi directly helps, but that's the more expensive solution. I also had seal just detach and turn into half-solid goo by soaking in alcohol in one case.
2 extra things:
1. If you don't use SuperLube with printed fancy cap, just use a rod. Put some lube inside (it's surprising how much they actually take ...), plug one end with a finger, and push rod in. Lube will get pushed into tracks and rest will squirt out. You can use 2 rods one against each other as well.
2. That 45 degree angle is only for Z bearings. If you have load-bearing bearing (hehe) like X or Y, rotate them the way that 2 ball tracks are on the top, not only one. This helps distribute the load better.
Thre are heated discussion in Prusa community whether Misumi bearings need to be cleaned and packed ... assembly manual says not to, but Misumi bearings which come standard now are in sealed bags and according to manufacturer's page, they contain transport oil only which does not interfere with standard lubrication process. So you have people saying to clean and lube them, then you have (mostly machinists) saying to just lube them as the oil is harmless, and you have people saying not to do anything. Now nobody's any wiser 😅
LOL, yeah, I have read all sorts of different things about this topic. I have always had good luck with this method.
Misumi are made in japan. The WORST thing to buy from China are screw, nuts, bolts, and BEARINGS! However, to be fair, just look at the specification. Are they g6 or h16? But China was known in the past for not heat treating GR8 bolts; failed!
Thanks Chris, great video. Simple but detailed with no steps missed or foreknowledge taken for granted. Planning on replacing my x and y with Misumi from Prusa and leaving the cheeper ones in the Z because it only has to move slowly and doesn't seem to make any noise.
There you go! Thanks
Chris, excellent video! I don't have any printer yet that uses Linear Bearings - but yesterday I went to help a friend that teaches 3D Printing on a school and all their printers use them... and yeah, the Rods got very damaged with time!
Thank you!
Your a god send, I literally have just ordered bearings for my first maintenance replacement and was a bit unclear on the process, liked and subscribed now
Alright! Thanks!
Spot on Chris and +1 on buying more than needed. Have done the same in past and had to toss 1/3 out cause of loose bearings or they were catching on the rod.
Yep, same here, most of the time I can get a full set. ;)
Spot on video! Very helpful and thorough.
Thanks, glad you think so!
I really miss the live streams. They contain so much more than just the topic of the video. Hope they return soon.
🙂
Thanks Chris - good advice. Looking forward to your video on V wheels.
Thanks coming soon!
Great vid. Had to clean up and re-grease my bearings yesterday. Boy what a difference! :)
Great! Thanks for watching
Great tips Chris. I'm in process of rebuilding my good old trusty Mk2 clone for maintenance, inherited it from a friend who got a E3 and was running flat out since 2015. Needed some TLC badly!!!
Good luck! Thanks for watching.
This video is great. Finally a video that shows the cost between bearings, and why the cheap ones are used. I see so many people complain about bearings. If you install them and understand why they fail. They will last a long time. I've used a cnc plasma for over 20 years. Once a year I would replace or service them. Right now I have an extra set of bearings and rod for my printer. These printer run non stop. The L10 life of those small bearings is short.
You bet! Thanks!
I'm getting everything together to convert my Mendel Sells to an I3. This will be a good time to check the rods and bearings.
Good timing on the video.
Thanks!
Thanks for the info Chris. Awesome information. Are you gonna publish a vid of the outakes for the one? I would be throughly interested in seeing that one.....
lol, good idea.
Great content as always👍🏼
Appreciate it!
Man, You always have the correct answers, a while ago your video of BTT-E3-RRF helped me a lot with my problematic ender 3. Now this video helps me a lot to find the squeal that my mk4 emits, I just assembled the kit, but I have ghosting in Y and an ugly sound, I suspect that I did not grease the bearings well.
Glad to hear these videos are helpful! Thank you for watching.
well done ... learned many things, thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
Chris, I learned a lot thanks for doing this
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome.. My 3 months old prusa mini has a unpleasant noise while it prints, which I don't remember was there at the beginning. I haven't printed some much either, but I will follow your recommendations. Thanks.
I hope that takes care of it. :)
Good stuff man. Thanks!
Thank you
Thanks, this was very informative!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome video Chris, and perfect timing since I am tackling 6 month maintenance / MK3S+ upgrade this weekend. Question, should there be supplemental lubrication periodically? Or just let the ride on the SuperLube?
6 month maintenance! Not needed mate. I've run mine for over 2 years and never touched it apart from a bit of PTFE grease on the rods
Great question, I am not sure what a company like Prusa recommends, but a Phil has stated, I have also run these are very long time (years) with no additional lubrications. Only in extreme cases would I pull it apart and repack it.
Thanks for your octoprint on linux tutorial, I finished going through it a couple days ago to install octoprint on an HP T620 thin client. Not having much experience with linux, it was pretty full on.
Glad it helped! Thank you
Very helpful, thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks!
Hi Chris,
Firstly, thank you for another fantastic video Sir and for the unofficial much needed giggles, thank you...
May I ask what do you think of the Sold polymer Linear bearings and would they be better than the cheaper metal Linear bearings...
Please take care and keep yourselves safe...
All the very best...
Andy...
Hey Andy, I have never really given them a try, but that question has come up a lot with this video. That might be one of the next steps we need to try.
10:33 : good photography, excellent.
Thanks!
Great video as always. I would point out that aligning the bearings in the manner you show is only recommended for the Z bearings by Prusa according to the current build manual. For the X and Y the bearings are aligned in an X pattern and not X+ pattern as they are for Z. This puts all the weight on 2 rows of balls and not just 1 for those axis. It doesn’t matter on Z since there is no weight put on those bearings. Thanks for all the great content.
Thanks for the info!
I was just thinking of learning about alcohol washing of bearings and this video came up right on time. Great!
I disassembled the printer before seeing this video, now I have ball bearings all over my house. I managed to find only 4 of them. This might not end well and I have no spares.
Oh no! Good luck friend.
Great video... I have noticed my MK3S getting a bit louder... For that matter the x axis on my mini too. Are you going to show a video of what all needs disassemble on the Mark 3 to do this maintenance? I bought a fully assembled MK3S, I saw enough build videos. Hoping there are shortcuts.
Thanks, Chris!
I did just buy the lube on Amazon.
It's kind of a pain to get it all apart, it took me a couple of hours to get it all done.
@Chris: what about the bearings inside the BMG extruder, like the ones inside the cogs?
Don't they need oil and maintenance?
They actually do, good question, I will have to lookup Bondtechs specs on that.
Just got my mk3s+ kit, haven't opened it quite yet, would you recommend cleaning and repacking the bearings before I assemble? Sound is a big concern for me as I live in an apartment building. Do you think I can get it quiet enough to not annoy my neighbours? It's a concrete building, so hopefully shouldn't be too too bad. Will also by to follow the other tips for vibration isolation, like using a garden tile as a base. It's just hard to get a reference for how loud this is from videos online.
You won't have any issue, the MK3 is going to be very quite for the most part. It won't bother the neighbors, no need to repack. You will love your MK3.
I love the orange juicsa!! I ordered my first prusa mk3s+ and a bear 2.1 frame. Going to be printing the parts on my ender 3....Can you please do a video on the printing of those parts. The guide is very informative, but im not sure my printing accuracy is good enough or how to test it.
That's an interesting thought, that might make a good video.
Very timely video! I'm considering new bearings (and maybe rods) for my MK3S. It wasn't an "S" when I assembled it back in August 2018. For about a year now, it's been making noises like yours. I've replace some of the bearings, but other than adding a little SuperLube, I never cleaned out my bearings, nor really filled them like you've shown. Maybe I need to do all the bearings (and rods too?) at the same time. Total print time is listed as 109 days -- or around 2600 hours.
It might not hurt to take a look.
Thanks Chris! I am building my first CoreXY machine (ROOK) and I was wondering how to clean and lubricate the bearings.
Glad I could help!
Can you do a video on filament runout sensor for skr1.4 in vsc? Please. Also adding a btt splitter for steppers?
I will see what I can do.
Thanks Chris :-)
Any time!
Hi Chris and thanks so much for your work.
I've been using Teflon sprayed/drying after a good 24h IPO bath and good dry up.
Seems to work great on my Bears, some have hundreds of hour.
Do you see any problem with Teflon?
May the Force be with you.
If I remember correctly, Teflon is more used on plastics/plastics or plastics/metal contact
I have never had an issue with it, I have read that your shouldn't use it, but it seems to work great for me.
Please show the linear bearing movement perpendicularly to the shaft (try to twist it on the shaft) to show how much twist/slop/wobble is in the bearing! Should there be a lot, some, or none? Thanks!
There will always be some, but it is very slight. Maybe 0.20mm.
Nice, in-depth video! It is odd how much conflicting info there is on bearing lubrication. I have a Ultimaker 2+ which uses 6mm linear bearings in the printhead and 8mm bushings on the gantry. All of the official documentation from UM states to use a sewing machine oil for all the smooth rods. But according to Misumi, the linear bearings call for lithium grease, like you mentioned.
Thank you
on a separate note... is it possible to use a standard PC motherboard as a controller board for a 3d printer or cnc mill ?
Not that I know of.
Dang, I wish I would have seen this before building my MK3S+ last week. After reading the debates back and forth about whether or not the Misumi bearings needed to be greased, I decided to follow Prusa's advice and go with the oil that was on there. It has slowly been leaking out with every print getting splatters all over the print bed. I doubt it's going to last nearly as long as they say. At least now I know how to do it properly.
Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris, I have built A Prusa bear clone, using an SKR 1.4 Turbo board, what max feedrate would you suggest setting as PETG prints are rubbish, and I have been running it with 3000 but I think it needs slowing down, please can you do a video on marlin setups for 32 bit boards and best settings, Cheers
On a Prusa style I just to run feedrate pretty low 200, 200, 12, 120 is what I usually set them to. On a bear you could go a little higher, but that's where I would start.
I have already needed to replace two rods and bearings on the less than one year old Prusa I maintain. I installed a set of Igus from Amazon on the X carriage. You have to be careful not to clamp them to tight or they will bind. I have not tried replacing the Y carriage because of the u bolts used to secure them.
Good luck, and hope you nail it. I tried to get Igus bearings working for several weeks before just getting some Musumis. I could never get the tension right and had really bad ringing, or the bearings grabbed too hard. There seemed to be no in-between.
Yeah, i have never tried the Igus before, I should give them a go just for a test.
Question lm8uu linear Bearing cleaned and properly lubed VS igus drylin bearing? Which is better? What about noise?
I never really tried IGUS I have heard mixed results. My guess is they would be quieter though.
Hi, have you tested the super_lube 92003 ? It is a silicone grease with PFTE...
No, I haven't tried that one yet.
Even on a newly built Prusa its best to pack the bearings with grease, Prusa will be updating the manual to include that soon
I run 99% Iso for my printer as its cheaply available
Thanks!
This is why I like SKF bearings. SKF bearings have 8 races. Granted each bearing can be approx $20+. I have a full set in my printer that have been working fine since 2017.
That's great!
The chrome plating on the rods matter a lot too btw!
True and sometimes it's really hard to tell.
I hope Prusa go with belts and linear rails for the XL as I don't fancy long rods and linear bearings, they are fine on a small printer like the MK III but anything larger I just wouldn't trust them to be perfectly straight
Good point. Thanks!
Thanks
Thank you
Did you convert an existing mk3 to the bear or make it from scratch. I'm wondering how much making one from scratch would cost like that instead of buying one from Prusa. With say a better extruder!
Hey Amy, I made mine from scratch and it is pretty expensive. It cost almost $1000 US.
@@ChrisRiley Damn! Thanks for letting me know :D
How do you feel about just switching to Drylin bearings?
Problem with Drylin bearings is that the tracks need to be VERY much aligned, actually more than is possible without special equipment,
However, there are special auto-aligning Igus bearings.
have a look at: ruclips.net/video/ZGBipbgwgME/видео.html
It would be interesting to give some a test, never had any experience with them.
"Everyone has an opinion" - for sure.
Dura Ace grease is expensive, but it is ideal for low temp use like this. It's what I used in my MK3S.
-Jake
🙂👍
😂 I love the name of your printer 🖨
Thanks!
appreciate the video and suggestions. On the chinese cheap bearing... too cheap so buy whole lot of them and throw away cuz it gets bad easy - sounds like dumping into landfill anything from china that's mostly all doesn't last much.
The cheaper ones actually turn out to be pretty good for the most part.
Gold :-)
Thanks!
What about polymer bushings?
I have never tried them, but I might give them a go.
I like my groovy smooth rods. I need to replace them.
🙂 Thanks for watching!
Jeeez Chris.... That's a lot of balls, shaft, rod, lubricant talk lol
What can I say? 🙂
Wish I had found this video two weeks ago. 🤨
Glad you're here now! :)
do linear rails need maintenance ?
I'm assuming you're asking about hiwin style linear rails with mgns with blocks, and yes they do need maintenance -- put some 3-in-1 sewing machine oil on the rail and run the blocks over them to have it pick up as much lubricant as possible into the block. Otherwise you need a special tool to attach a nipple to the block to lubricate it, depending on brand and size it may not be possible to get lubricant into the block without taking the block off the linear rail.
They do, mostly cleaning and light oil, be we can take a look at those as well.
my clone uses stainless rods and ptfe llined petg printed bearings with a bit of preload and run in after installatuib
they run dry and so far i see no issues plus the whole printer was below 100$ and it is 100% prusa i3 mk3s clone, although aluminium parts are printed :P
That's cool! Thanks!
I finally got around to doing this. Halfway through tearing down my printer, I realized I forgot to print the Super Lube adapter cap. Quite the facepalm moment.
Doh!!
What content thank you
Thanks!
You can actually see the top rail is higher on the left. Surely that is a problem.
Top rail? Could be just a camera effect.
The prusa facebook group always has a thread with people arguing over bearings. To oil them, to grease them. Also those who just throw them on the machine and never touch them. Then you have the bushing people, another argument.
I recently purchased 10 bearings from a company called Squishworx. They apparently take the entire bearing apart and service it before use. Not sure if I can link them here but if you look up the name you can see what I'm talking about. I am going to use them on my next build.
No matter what, there will always be a hat filled with opinions and that hat will always be on fire with disagreements.
I take a look. Let us know how they are. Thanks
@@ChrisRiley Certainly will let you know somehow. I'm hoping their efforts prove to be worthy.
Can you just harden the steel rod yourself?
Hmmmm....maybe, I would have to try it and see how it goes.
Welp I giggled...many times
😉
Things appear slightly different for the Prusa MINI. On the rod that has two bearings (Step 6), the rails are not offset at all. In fact, they recommend that the bearings not be centered.
help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/2-yz-axis-assembly_196824
Good to know. Thanks!
I just want to know how you did this entire video with a straight face!?
I didn't even notice until I played it back. 🤣
@@ChrisRiley BTW...love your videos! Have learned so much and sent so many your way. Thanks for all you do
@@alex.2pointbro964 Thanks!
Where to start.....How many takes before you stopped laughing? Did Bryan Vines write this script for you?
Lol, I didn't really notice until I watched the edited video. 🤣
Why not buy the better bearing? You would not have to mess with them. Install them and away you go. A lot less maintenance. I guess if you have a lot of time on your hands the cheap way is the way to go.
It's just a less expensive option. It's hard to beat 2 for a dollar.
Costco alcohol :)
😁👍
@@ChrisRiley lol i am watching your prusa enclosure video atm :)
Fixing i3 mechanic doable by replacing i3 mechanic completely.
This is true.
Small FYI :-) After trying 'japanese' (expensive) Lmuu bearings with less than anticipated result.
I then experimented with printed (thingiverse.. yess I know not the best of sources) ) Ball Bearing holder types .
Happily, these have proven Absolutely Excellent in real life use.
These rolling on the 8mm rods bearings are Tolerant of rod size inconsistencies/ accuracy AND parallelism issues... producing Zero bindings/tight spots.
Rod quality , Even tolerance is of Markedly reduced Importance !
They turn a fairly Poor design (rods) setup into V good.
Smooth and as precise as Ice skates on a freshly Zamboni'd Ice sheet.. (best analogy that came to mind :-).
Better in truth than Linear rails that i experimented with.. all for V low cost . But.. Do... buy ABEC 5 or better bearings... not the 10 for 2$ ones
Well worth the trouble to hunt up and try for your self.
It IS a major printer upgrade.. with instantly apparent results.
Cool, thanks for sharing! 🙂
Cheap bearings are not a place to save money.
Agreed!
This video is quite graphic and not for conservative viewers.
Lol!
I am conservative and I approve of his talk about balls and rods. I was worried about demonitization. Lol