7:20 I thought stainless steel was fairly soft compared to say a grade 8 steel bolt? my A arms are doing the same thing but I think it is because my inner bushings are shot. I might have to check my bolts for groves now though, you got me thinking!
So apparently stainless steel is usually stronger than regular steel but much less hard than hardened steel... things you learn lol. Although there are different grades and what not so I'm not sure if I actually upgraded my bolts or not... at least they wont rust lol.
Hi Micheal, one little tip I did forget to mention. When replacing bolts and or nut, especially with SSTL (stainless steel) there are 2 types of anti seize. Aluminum based, and copper based. I prefer copper, as aluminum tends to dry and freezes up bolts going into the cases and such. Or if your around any rivers, water etc. If this is the case, especially use the copper based anti-seize. I also alway recommend nylock nuts so the do not back themselves off. Please use a torque wrench as well. You can buy a decent (not the best, but decent) torque wrench at harbor freight. It’ll be off a bit, but close enough to get this spec met. Good luck everyone, and props to MS for hard efforts too. 👍 Your always welcome to check out my pages too at ProfabDesigns here on the tube....Be blessed, Dean.
Hey Dean, once again, thank you for your information! I was un-aware of the differences in anti-seize. It looks like I've been using the copper based though, so I'm happy about that! I do have a decent torque wrench, but I don't always use it. I will check out your pages, thanks again!
MS, just so your aware, SSTL is actually a softer metal than a "Proper Grade 8" hardened bolt. I would also highly recommend using a star flanged nut, or sometime called a ribbed nut. It has a Star washer designed into the face of the flange, it so they do not back themselves off or cause any play. SSTL is great for looks but is NOT a the best strength for high stress hardware. Use Grade 8(Eight) or equivalent.
Thank you for this information man. I actually did some research because someone else said the same thing about stainless and you are 100% right. I think these will hold up fine for now. Grade 8 for the future!
People think ss steal is stronger but that is incorrect its actually softer thats why you need to put neverses on threads. use grade 8 structural lot stronger
i switched the bolds around from the side and it fixed a bit of play. (didnt turn it around just swaped sides) but i struggle to find a NEW build for it... where can i get it? i seen vito sell it but that is usa and way to expensive to get it to europe...
Hey boss first of nice bike! My question is what collars are you referring to? Also do the j arms from fireball come complete? Or what will i have to buy separately?? Much appreciate your time and help
Hey David, thank you for the compliment! I am talking about the other componants that make up the J-arm. There is the sleeve that goes around the bolt (I think this is what I was referring to as the collar) and the bushings that go around that. If any of these are worn, it can cause play. I believe the fireball racing arms come complete but I'm not sure as mine came with my quad.
Michael Sabo thanks for the info bud, yeah I know exactly what you're talking about, I was having issues with play in my j arm and when I pulled those collars I noticed they're cracked on both ends, but luckily I was able to locate some oem replacements since then :) just waiting on a few more parts to get out riding again
Liked and subed 👌 also how can I make the spring in the back of the banshee stiffer not the shock but the spring I can't seem to find out how to turn it or move it 2005 banshee
There should be 2 rings on the top of the spring. One is a locking nut and the other will adjust the spring tension softer or stiffer. They make spanner wrenches to turn the rings, or you can use a punch and a hammer and tap them to get them spinning. Hope this helps! Thank you for the like and subscription! :)
I had the same issue with mine and it was the caps the go on the arms they have a rubber basket and it was worn out . How much did the air box cost $$??
What's up man, thank you for the comment! These a-arms are extended +2 but they are not for long travel shocks. If you do a search on ebay, the ones I have are still available. Fireball racing makes them.
Im curious can you mod j arms to a arms? I just got a 1988 banshee blue one (i think its a 88) Its a pile of hot garbage does not run engine seems like has water damage. But i got a new crankshaft hotrod with it and he also pay my cylinder piston around 600€ I traded a friend for his unfinished project banshee he got tired of it and has no patience for my hyosung 450 road legal quad. That runs. Im happy he is happy i also have other running quads. Like a triton 450 road legal but i need to wait januari 2021 for the paper cause now its 240€ no thanks i will wait till itd 120€ once its older then 10 years same rules for cars (same engine as the hyosung 450) its a good 4 stroke also got a adly 300 road legal on my name (trx300ex) and a lots of other quads i need to fix My 450 and the banshee are at my oncle who has its own 11 hectare fields that wr made into a race track. So when the banshee runs the 450 comes back home Anyway hummm fireball j arms. I saw them 500€ ish... Compared to 170€ a arms of ebay (alba copy) I think i will first focus on making it tun
They do make conversion kits to weld your frame to accept A-arms. It may be more worth it to buy a good used a arm frame and sell your J arm; there are people that seek those J-arms and maybe would trade you. I can't comment on the 170$ a arms as I've never run them but that's kind of scary lol
@@MichaelSabo yeah i found them but like always usa based. its hard to find a frame here in france... atleast for a reasonble price.. with the price peak it has now 6000€ atleast for a running one.. i doubt i find a frame.. or someone who wants a J frame in france (and if i do im sure it be far...) my oncle just bought some. nothing bad about them they are ALBA arms without alba brand. alba sells them for like 250€ what is already not bad. but for now its just to try, i see alot of banshee for sale doh with those fake china A arms (or alba same thing) rarely seem leagers or any other brand. (fullflight is more usa based) but anyway my oncle wanted to try cause stock its a death trap its not wide enough... we put some wheel spacer in the back but the front is SMALL... so this was the best option (not a fan on spacer on the front wheels) but after once he gets the money he want LONG travel A arms for his with new suspensions
@@MichaelSabo we will see how those cheap A arms will hold up :) cause we jump and race on our home made track. alot of turn and 2 jumps. (every turn the banshee wants to fall over... cause its not wide enough.. its a hard job keeping it on its wheels.. but rear spacer already helped like 50% now it stays on 2/3 wheels. befor it was 1 wheel...
New subscriber and I’m thinking of getting a banshee but would you be able to tell me stuff to look for when buying a banshee? Would really appreciate it if you could respond to me thank you 🙂🙂 And by the way sick looking banshee 😍😍
South texas banshee has a nice video on what to check before buying a banshee ! And a shitload of other really helpful video actually my banshee runs damn great because of him haha
What's up dude, thank you for subscribing and for the compliments! Yes, south texas banshee has really good informational videos; he helped me a lot when it came to building my bottom end. As for checking out a Banshee, of course check all the standard things, shake all pivot points to see if theres play; a-arms, shocks, steering, swing arm, axle carrier and linkage. If you have a stand or box so you can lift the quad on to it and have it jacked in the air, you will be able to inspect for play much easier. For the motor, if you can, bring a compression tester and check both cylinders; if it's got stock heads and is mostly stock, it should have around 105-125psi per cylinder. Lower than 100, it will be needing a top end soon. Also inspect the cases, especially the bottom and near the front sprocket; look for hard grey globs (JB Weld). And then of course run through all the gears, check the clutch function and get the quad up to speed on the street if you can to check for wobbles, bent wheels axle. Of course check that the VIN is not messed with. There's a lot to look over when you buy a new bike or quad and I'm missing a lot here sure, but these are key points that I would definitely inspect!
Michael Sabo Thank you so much for helping me now I know what to look for when buying a banshee. And I will bring my stand and check everything there is like you said. And I’m really thankful for you’re help thank you 🙂🙂
7:20 I thought stainless steel was fairly soft compared to say a grade 8 steel bolt? my A arms are doing the same thing but I think it is because my inner bushings are shot. I might have to check my bolts for groves now though, you got me thinking!
So apparently stainless steel is usually stronger than regular steel but much less hard than hardened steel... things you learn lol. Although there are different grades and what not so I'm not sure if I actually upgraded my bolts or not... at least they wont rust lol.
Hi Micheal, one little tip I did forget to mention. When replacing bolts and or nut, especially with SSTL (stainless steel) there are 2 types of anti seize. Aluminum based, and copper based. I prefer copper, as aluminum tends to dry and freezes up bolts going into the cases and such. Or if your around any rivers, water etc. If this is the case, especially use the copper based anti-seize. I also alway recommend nylock nuts so the do not back themselves off. Please use a torque wrench as well. You can buy a decent (not the best, but decent) torque wrench at harbor freight. It’ll be off a bit, but close enough to get this spec met. Good luck everyone, and props to MS for hard efforts too. 👍 Your always welcome to check out my pages too at ProfabDesigns here on the tube....Be blessed, Dean.
Hey Dean, once again, thank you for your information! I was un-aware of the differences in anti-seize. It looks like I've been using the copper based though, so I'm happy about that! I do have a decent torque wrench, but I don't always use it. I will check out your pages, thanks again!
MS, just so your aware, SSTL is actually a softer metal than a "Proper Grade 8" hardened bolt. I would also highly recommend using a star flanged nut, or sometime called a ribbed nut. It has a Star washer designed into the face of the flange, it so they do not back themselves off or cause any play. SSTL is great for looks but is NOT a the best strength for high stress hardware. Use Grade 8(Eight) or equivalent.
Thank you for this information man. I actually did some research because someone else said the same thing about stainless and you are 100% right. I think these will hold up fine for now. Grade 8 for the future!
Got me thinking if its my bushings or frame! Ill have to check it out soon
So would the a arms be better for wheelies and street riding than the j arms or would the j arms be better?
Hey Mike : Good to see the Banshee even when shes not smoking.
Smoking soon!
Sick vids from The
SaboRacingCrew!!!!!!! 👍
i know this vid was made a while ago but i’m trying to find a new bolt for my j arm but i can’t find it could you send a link?
Hey Mike! Love the vids!! Where did you get the grills for the LED headlights?
Any link on how to replace J arm ball joints?
How do you adjust the camber and caster on them?
What size tie rods do you have ?
People think ss steal is stronger but that is incorrect its actually softer thats why you need to put neverses on threads. use grade 8 structural lot stronger
i switched the bolds around from the side and it fixed a bit of play. (didnt turn it around just swaped sides) but i struggle to find a NEW build for it... where can i get it? i seen vito sell it but that is usa and way to expensive to get it to europe...
Hey boss first of nice bike! My question is what collars are you referring to? Also do the j arms from fireball come complete? Or what will i have to buy separately?? Much appreciate your time and help
Hey David, thank you for the compliment! I am talking about the other componants that make up the J-arm. There is the sleeve that goes around the bolt (I think this is what I was referring to as the collar) and the bushings that go around that. If any of these are worn, it can cause play. I believe the fireball racing arms come complete but I'm not sure as mine came with my quad.
Michael Sabo thanks for the info bud, yeah I know exactly what you're talking about, I was having issues with play in my j arm and when I pulled those collars I noticed they're cracked on both ends, but luckily I was able to locate some oem replacements since then :) just waiting on a few more parts to get out riding again
Hello the j arm caliper those brake lines screw in
Liked and subed 👌 also how can I make the spring in the back of the banshee stiffer not the shock but the spring I can't seem to find out how to turn it or move it 2005 banshee
There should be 2 rings on the top of the spring. One is a locking nut and the other will adjust the spring tension softer or stiffer. They make spanner wrenches to turn the rings, or you can use a punch and a hammer and tap them to get them spinning. Hope this helps! Thank you for the like and subscription! :)
I've got a 89 shee and I hate the j arms. Fixing to get a 06.
Hey bud. Do you remember where you got your stainless-steel kit?
I appreciate the video.
I had the same issue with mine and it was the caps the go on the arms they have a rubber basket and it was worn out . How much did the air box cost $$??
Yes, those cup seals get beat and their kind of expensive. The box was 120 shipped and you need the stock boots too which I got new for 15$.
friend where can I get it for an 87
Hi, man I have my 1989 banshee, and I'm looking for those J A Arms long travel, where did you get it from? thank you, nice bike man
What's up man, thank you for the comment! These a-arms are extended +2 but they are not for long travel shocks. If you do a search on ebay, the ones I have are still available. Fireball racing makes them.
Im curious can you mod j arms to a arms?
I just got a 1988 banshee blue one (i think its a 88)
Its a pile of hot garbage does not run engine seems like has water damage.
But i got a new crankshaft hotrod with it and he also pay my cylinder piston around 600€
I traded a friend for his unfinished project banshee he got tired of it and has no patience for my hyosung 450 road legal quad. That runs.
Im happy he is happy i also have other running quads. Like a triton 450 road legal but i need to wait januari 2021 for the paper cause now its 240€ no thanks i will wait till itd 120€ once its older then 10 years same rules for cars (same engine as the hyosung 450) its a good 4 stroke also got a adly 300 road legal on my name (trx300ex) and a lots of other quads i need to fix
My 450 and the banshee are at my oncle who has its own 11 hectare fields that wr made into a race track. So when the banshee runs the 450 comes back home
Anyway hummm fireball j arms.
I saw them 500€ ish... Compared to 170€ a arms of ebay (alba copy)
I think i will first focus on making it tun
They do make conversion kits to weld your frame to accept A-arms. It may be more worth it to buy a good used a arm frame and sell your J arm; there are people that seek those J-arms and maybe would trade you. I can't comment on the 170$ a arms as I've never run them but that's kind of scary lol
@@MichaelSabo yeah i found them but like always usa based.
its hard to find a frame here in france... atleast for a reasonble price.. with the price peak it has now 6000€ atleast for a running one.. i doubt i find a frame.. or someone who wants a J frame in france (and if i do im sure it be far...)
my oncle just bought some. nothing bad about them they are ALBA arms without alba brand. alba sells them for like 250€ what is already not bad.
but for now its just to try, i see alot of banshee for sale doh with those fake china A arms (or alba same thing) rarely seem leagers or any other brand. (fullflight is more usa based)
but anyway my oncle wanted to try cause stock its a death trap its not wide enough... we put some wheel spacer in the back but the front is SMALL... so this was the best option (not a fan on spacer on the front wheels) but after once he gets the money he want LONG travel A arms for his with new suspensions
@@MichaelSabo we will see how those cheap A arms will hold up :) cause we jump and race on our home made track. alot of turn and 2 jumps. (every turn the banshee wants to fall over... cause its not wide enough.. its a hard job keeping it on its wheels.. but rear spacer already helped like 50% now it stays on 2/3 wheels. befor it was 1 wheel...
@@reggiexp69 curious how they are; good luck with the build!
@@MichaelSabo yeah, they dont seem bad the a arms for 155€ we will see how they hold up.
and thanks
Hi do a arms from a suzuki ltr 450 fit a yamaha banshee mine is a 2002
I dont know for sure but I doubt it man.
@@MichaelSabo ok thanks for the help
Where are you located
Sabo for the win...
You're the man; thank you!
New subscriber and I’m thinking of getting a banshee but would you be able to tell me stuff to look for when buying a banshee? Would really appreciate it if you could respond to me thank you 🙂🙂 And by the way sick looking banshee 😍😍
South texas banshee has a nice video on what to check before buying a banshee ! And a shitload of other really helpful video actually my banshee runs damn great because of him haha
pcostyle09 thanks I’ll check them out
What's up dude, thank you for subscribing and for the compliments! Yes, south texas banshee has really good informational videos; he helped me a lot when it came to building my bottom end. As for checking out a Banshee, of course check all the standard things, shake all pivot points to see if theres play; a-arms, shocks, steering, swing arm, axle carrier and linkage. If you have a stand or box so you can lift the quad on to it and have it jacked in the air, you will be able to inspect for play much easier. For the motor, if you can, bring a compression tester and check both cylinders; if it's got stock heads and is mostly stock, it should have around 105-125psi per cylinder. Lower than 100, it will be needing a top end soon. Also inspect the cases, especially the bottom and near the front sprocket; look for hard grey globs (JB Weld). And then of course run through all the gears, check the clutch function and get the quad up to speed on the street if you can to check for wobbles, bent wheels axle. Of course check that the VIN is not messed with. There's a lot to look over when you buy a new bike or quad and I'm missing a lot here sure, but these are key points that I would definitely inspect!
Michael Sabo Thank you so much for helping me now I know what to look for when buying a banshee. And I will bring my stand and check everything there is like you said. And I’m really thankful for you’re help thank you 🙂🙂
No problem dude, I'm glad I can help out a fellow rider!
Hey man By any chance are selling the j arms
No sir!
Braaaappp
You mean Te Cat te.