Metal Stud Framing & Drywall Tools That You Should Know About!
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2019
- Just starting out in the metal stud framing and drywall trade and need to learn what tools we use to get the job done then this video is for you. Metal stud framing tools and drywall tools work together perfectly and I am going to teach you about them and the fasteners we use.
✅ You can find the tools you need down below;
Line laser, bit.ly/HiltiPM2LG
Drywall screw gun, bit.ly/HiltiSD4500A22
Drywall square, bit.ly/DrywallSquare
Utility knife, bit.ly/OLFA25mm
Hilti powder actuated fastening tool, bit.ly/HiltiDX351
Hilti gas actuated fastening tool, bit.ly/HiltiDX120
Impact driver, bit.ly/HiltiSID4a22
Drywall router, bit.ly/HiltiSCO6A22
Hilti combo pack, bit.ly/HiltiComboKit
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Hello. Chris Konkle here. Just to give you a heads up. If you click on any of the links in my video descriptions or on my website, you will be led to Amazon. I am an associate and will receive a commission on any purchases you make. My goal is to make it easy. For people who do not know what real contractors use for tools, personal protective equipment, equipment, services or any other procured items. Also, easy for experienced trades people by having all the items neatly organized and grouped together for quick and easy purchasing. There are millions of different products available out there. I only promote those that I have either personally used or have fully researched and believe they will deliver value to you.
It takes a lot of time and money from myself to bring you all the free content. Our message is to master construction and be an industry leader. Then you can train other workers to be quality trades people that value organization and leadership and use problem solving to ensure project success. This message promotes good ethics and practices in both business and work.
Construction Kronies is affiliated with Amazon.com, Merch by Amazon, Skill Share, SimplyWise, Paltap.io, and Tubebuddy. Please know that I have not received any free product or compensation from any of these companies for mentioning them on my website, in my video descriptions or videos themselves. The only form of compensation that I would receive is if there is a transaction made with those companies and I would receive a commission.
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Chris Konkle. 
Хобби
If you want to learn more about the tools we use in commercial construction check out this playlist: bit.ly/MoreHiltiTools
Damn bro you got nunchucks too...nice!!
@@kellafreitas9593 yeah man!
Great video and I love the links in description for easy access. Sharing you out tonight
Hey my man! Sorry for the late reply I have been working double shifts this week...glad its the weekend. Thanks bros!
Thanks for this helpful video!!! It has lots of information for new people learning to frame and hang drywall.
Your welcome and thank you for the comment👍
Great vid really like these vids. 👍🏽 very informative and clear .
Thank you so much Russell! My apologies for taking so long to get back to you. I was camping out at the lake this long weekend and came back with a cold, a huge bite on the back of my neck and a drywall job (yuck) lol! Hope to see your next video soon!
Thank you, this has been very helpful!
Your very welcome. Any questions you have im always here!
Great tips. Thanks for sharing
Your very welcome thanks for commenting!
Just subscribed love the videos
Thank you!!
Like the video man, some good stuff. Crazy to see how different people do it in other places. Everywhere I’ve worked we use the standard fixed blade utility knife, never seen anyone using the olfas but it makes sense. What kind of hammer you use? All sorts of cool framing hammers coming out these days but nobody makes drywall hatchets with cool features :(
So true man and I just hate the hatchets because they are so light and weak. I use a Stanley 22 oz with a long handle but love the Stilettos. You can spend $400 on a hammer these days. I used the fixed blades lots and used to prefer them for drywall. But doing itch and other stuff and now I got used to the nice grip I get with the 1" blade. I can't stand the small olfas it has to be the 25mm or 1"!!
Found you through the Dam Man Live show. Looking forward to move episodes.
Dam Bam Yeah!
Hello, I came over tonight from PUSAs channel....I subscribed and am looking forward to your channel. Your videos look great....I'll be back !
Thank you thank you!! I love Pusa Studios, they have been very helpful. Looking forward to seeing you again!!
Thanks for this video!
Cheers! Im here if you ever have questions!
Good video. 20 year vet here, I will share your vid with new apprentices.
Cheers! That is great man! Very nice to meet ya! I hold 2 weekly live streams and take that time to teach guys prints, specs, contracts and all the other stuff that goes along with the trades. Vets are always welcome for more input!!
Hey Chris, have you tried the Milwaukee Shockwave drywall #2 phillips bit. I use it everyday for electrical boxes and its perfect for drywall screws. Try it out if you ever get a chance.
I have tried them yes, I agree they are great bits!
My pleasure
Very good info!
Cheers! Thank you.
Very informative. Here from Pusa Studios' stream. New frnd showing love. Very nice Video. TFS.
Thank you very much! Love Pusa Studios!!
Perfect video 👏🏻
Thank you💪
Nice video Chris and I see you have lots of room there to do lots of stuff.
Awwh man Russ I have a video hanging my heavy bag but I have to reshoot some parts because the audio got messed up. Thanks my man. Yeah lots of space now to work.
@@ConstructionKronies I shared one of ypur videos with the question who can show me where the set of sticks in this video are hanging?
There’s more than 2 types of framing screws for metal framing, but those you mention are the two basic for cfmf
Yep you bet. There are the #10's and 8's, I have used hex screws and even rivets (crazy right, I know!) but 99.98% of my jobs have been done with the regular screws. I think its important to have a good collection of bits and sockets on you at all times and always read the specs! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello. How are you? Saw you on Pusa tonight. Nice Channel. Great content. Love it. Hit the bell. I an a Electrician and Drone Pilot in New York City.
That's wicked man. Nice to meet you for sure. I love New York City, have another electrician buddy there as well so that's pretty sweet.
yeah Chris I learn a lot about this topic, But how you install a Reinforcing with multi-metal stud that looks as a (HEB-steelbeam)
I think you mean a box beam. Great video idea man thanks so much! I will do a video on it over the holidays!
Very informative vid Chris. You explained all the necessary tools for hanging drywall on both metal and wood studded walls. I did notice you didn't have a 48" drywall T-Square? Perhaps you really don't need one but I love to use them to square up and mark not only drywall but plywood and MDF. Thanks for sharing. Cheers mate!
I'm glad you mentioned that. I had to cut that part out of the video because of bad audio but yes yij need one for sure. I was so mad I shot 2 videos and the one I cant use any of it because of bad audio I barely got the second one done.
Among carpenters, at least old carpenters, what you call a 2’ square is a framing square. What you called a framing square is a speed square. We always called the little metal framing screws peanut screws.
Absolutely agree about going cordless for your drivers. There are plenty of things to trip over on a job site. Eliminating most of the extension cords cuts the trip hazard in half as well as eliminating getting the cord caught on something so you can’t reach a screw or having the tool come unplugged, not to mention having someone else on the job unplug your cord to they can plug in their “absolutely vital” radio.
I don’t understand why you say you only need the red handled snips. The first time I had to deal with metal stud I was told that to cut one to length you just cut the two sides and then bent it back and forth till the center broke. That was 90% of the cutting and it didn’t matter if you used a right or or a left pair of snips and of course since it was a straight cut yellows worked fine too.
I love it, peanut screws. Yeah when I was first taught steel framing they showed me the exact same way to bend it back and forth. But over the years I have learned and through experience prefer the red snips and it's much much faster to cut them. I can easily demonstrate the technique in a video or on my live stream for you anytime. I started as a carpenter and yes in carpentry we call the 2' a framing square, the little triangle one is the speed square for studs in the tracks or on the plates. I have the little 1 ft framing square too. I will have to look back to see where my error was in the video! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Currently a metal stud framer, and it’s all production usually. Cutting your studs all the way through is a lot faster assuming it’s light gauge, just give it a little bend and cut a slight curve then cut the lip off for your next cut
@@syscheremeta4121absolutly . I remember the first time I saw a guy do the bend it till it breaks method😮 I thought I was going to stroke out..... Cussing him did not do any good do to the language difference. I could cut 4 studs in the time it took him to bend 2 .But when I started in the trade we all had plumb bobs and water levels and cords. No routers ....we had a keyhole saw and a bigger buck saw for cutting out doors and windows Lasers and cordless tools hadn't hit the scene yet.
Thank you so much 😭😭
No problem anytime!!
That was the GREATEST video I've seen all week!!! Thanks Chris. 😁 By the way, 99% don't know how to spin those framing screws like a top!! Again, thank you and God bless! 😁
Cheers mate! 99% of people dont know you can set your screw depth either but we keep hiring them 🤣😂
🤣🤣
@@ConstructionKronies you will have that on the BIG JOBS lol I'm in seminar line of work enjoyed your video glad to see someone still take pride in there work even when you have to get it done by yourself
Thanks great informative videos. Do you have any preference for chalk lines?
Yeah the tajimas are my favorite. Thanks man!
@@ConstructionKronies the shinwa chalk line is great for drywall or some finish work, has a needle point at the head so it’s nice for angled cuts on rock
Where can I buy the Chemtron for he bottom track? I can't seem to find it anywhere. Is there an alternative you could recommend?
The acoustical sealant or the black caulking will be available at any drywall supplier and I think Home Depot even caries it. It may not be Chemtron the brand but it's a petroleum based acoustical caulking. Let me know if your still having trouble finding it and we can look something up for you in your region!!
Thank you for your lessons . Would you please tell us about where is a good trainn8ng school in any area? Thank you again this is limitless .
For any trade the best place to learn is in the field. Nait pr Sait here in Alberta (north/southern alberta institute of technology)
@@ConstructionKronies O Thank You !
hey stopping back by nice channel
Super cool cheers!
The drywall can also be used for steel id rather use it than the compact the screws go in more easily
it sure can yes you bet! I remember about 10 to 12 years ago I was using the plug in drywall gun to fasten heavy gauge steel stud, but now with the 22V Hilti is good enough, but def not as good! Cheerrs!
Hilti 💪🏻
Boss! 💥👊
Hey! congrats! new friend from pusa :)
Right on, yes I know your channel, saw you there last night! Nice to meet ya!
I'm looking to attach 16 gauge steel studs to track. Plans call for 10-16 ×3/4. I have salt air near me so I'm looking for corrosion protection. I'm getting confused between the wafer head and the modified truss head. Are they the same or can they be used interchangeably? Thanks
You can use them interchangeably not much difference in the heads really. They are a pain in the butt, I like the #8s for 18 gauge. Not sure why they keep specifying the #10s.
Thank you greatly. I'm getting a lot from your videos. Think I just found a video of using wood against steel for door frames, which is also in my plans for man door and overhead cannister door. Thanks again
How can l know how to look the bid u use on cut out tool lm new one trying to use a hilti cut out tool
Okay cool! The Hilti cut out tool comes with 3 different collets for the different bit sizes. 1/8" is the most common. I use the standard point bits because it cuts nicer but most guys like the guide point because it helps when cutting boxes. I also use the 1/4" guide point for cutting around windows and doors. There is the 5/32" that is a bit bigger when all you work with is 5/8" drywall. I haven't used that one yet so if you get one let me know how you like it k! Hope this helps.
So you use a standard number 2 Phillips bit for driving your screws instead of using a Philips reduced number two AKA PR2 instead of P2 driver bit? that leads me to something I've wondered for a long time, and that is why do most dimpler bits incorporate the standard P2 driver bit instead of the PR2 driver bit?
Yeah the drywall and steel framing screws are all Philips you cant buy them in Robertson. The only other types we use for metal framing is 5/16" 3/8" 1/4" hex screws in that order.
@@ConstructionKronies yeah I'm not talking about the Robertson screws. I'm talkin about Phillips Reduced number 2 not Robertson number 2. On the bit itself a Phillips number two will say P2 and on d drywall version of the Phillips number 2 bit it will say PR2 this stands for Phillips Reduced 2, instead of Phillips 2. Some brands so will label them P2R. Both driver bits are a number 2 Phillips bit but the PR2 has a reduced width but it is still a number 2 Phillips bit in all regards but the reduced overall width allows it to fit deeper into the drywall screws in order to get a better grip and allow a lot less came out which leads to stripping of the driver bit and the fastener. I'm not sure if you know what I'm talkin about or not I will post a picture of both in your discord in just a second.
@@ConstructionKronies I think what you're thinking that I'm meaning is a combination screw that you can use a number 2 Phillips or number to Robertson but that is not what I'm talking about it all those type of combination screws are normally for wood framing such as some deck screws and some construction screws. I don't like those screws at all. in my opinion those combination screws are worthless compared to torx screws , or even a regular Robinson screw.
Is 20 gauge steel considered light gauge or heavy gauge in regards to the framing screws?
I am wondering whether I should get #8 self-drilling zinc screws for 20 gauge steel or the black phosphate screws?
... and what length should the screws be for 20 gauge steel? 1/2" or 3/4"?
Yes it is heavy gauge. It's funny, there is only 1 light gauge at 25 and everything else is considered heavy. All you need is #8 1/2" self drillers for gauges 16 to 20.
@@ConstructionKronies Thanks a lot for your answer :-)
So, having just had 3 walls removed for a Sump install, is it possible to build half steel stud for 4ft, and the remainder be wood stud?
Or is going single material better in a basement envrioment?
Steel always in a basement. All steel and no wood is the way to go. When you frame the frost walls,.insulate, 6 mil vapour barrier and some chemtron caulking. 25 gauge will be fine, I like 20 gauge myself but at least at the doors. Hope this helps let me know if you have any more questions.
@@ConstructionKronies actually yes, does the track have to be nailed/screwed in? I have a gutter system below the concrete, and cannot puncture that.
Is adhesive acceptable?
@@S_murray K here is a link too the pin bolts I recommend. 1/4" diameter and you can get them in 1"-2" long. Pre-drill the holes in the concrete with a 1/" bit on an sds hammer drill. We normally use the 1/4"x1-1/4" bit.ly/UCANpinbolts
my project is with shipping containers. i want metal studs as well. i have been researching what best fits my needs for a metal framing nailgun. i,m a totally new DIY er, . most bloggers with tools i notice may have most of one brand, but do have a couple of other brands they have. most of my drills etc are dewalt. i may have to get a milwaukee framing nailgun. can you suggest from experience the best metal fram gun. thank you.
Yes I can.for sure. You can either buy a hilti dx351 or dx120and use steel pins or you can just use an impact driver and use 5/16 self drilling fasteners. Is there any concrete? Also to fasten the studs to the track or track to steel you can always use self drilling framing screws for heavy gauge or the regular framing screws (black) and they both have a #2 Phillip's head. That's the beauty of steel most of the time you just need screws. Any more questions always here bro! Good luck with your project.
@@ConstructionKronies thank you. my concern is, the screws are 1/4 inch. with a framing nailgun, the screws are 2"-3,1/4". or smaller. i would like to drill metal from to concrete blocks to fill in 2 ft, between my polycaronate exterior walls, and entry door. i,m confused and learning.
@@rafiqa1621 okay so if you are going steel into concrete block like a masonry unit then the hilti isnt the right choice. You would need to hammer drill and use pin bolts.1/4" diameter to whatever depth you need. If its say structural steel columns or beams then the hilti is the only way to go. If it's just heavy gauge or light gauge steel to solid concrete slab then you can use the hilti powder or gas actuated nailers or hammer drill and use pin bolts. They have pins for concrete and steel nd both are very strong so I wouldn't worry about that. I wouldn't go buy a 351 or 120 for just a small pc of work I'd probably try to find the right screw, bolts and drill. Hope that helps.
Why is the yellow for tapers? Im left handed been using the straight cut snips since i started in the early 90's. Most right handed folks do better with the right hand snips and same for lefties and left hand snips but i know a lot of framers that use the yellow .if you ever have to make a corner on a piece of 12" track or roof cap on a parapet wall you end up using both right and left..............😮😮never mind i finished watching to the end .You might be Canadian that clears up all of the confusion i had. 😅 😅 😅Hope work is as plentiful for you guys as it is in oklahoma the last several years.
Yes sir, Canadian. Thankfully work has been very busy since I moved out west to Edmonton from Toronto. I also did sheet metal so I use all types of snips for certain cuts. The straight cutters just for corner bead. There are thise long tip aviation straight cutters are becoming more and more popular with steel stud, I unfortunately can't use them. I have gimpy hands won't let my wrist work with . Cheers bro!
Why do you use the electrician pouch for your right side ?
It's what everyone uses, makes sense, fits the tools we need for framing and drywall steel stud very well, put our tape measure in the top pocket of the screw pouch.
Interesting! 😊
Thank you Siera! Always good to see you!
You too! ❤
Where can I get the same electrician tool pouch?? #amazonlink??
Yes you can get the leather ones almost at any drywall supply house or trade tool shop. You can get the nylon ones at any Home Depot or lowes, I bet Amazon will have either. Sure yes this is an Occidental one that is the same price as the one I have amzn.to/3YGEAsW
Tuck this video away in your library, and keep it there for reference. Remember, you're getting these professional tips for free.
Thanks Jay you my guy too brother!!!
I get it. Like a #2 pencil. lol 😃
Haha when I was cutting the video together I was laughing about that. At least they will know we use #2 Phillip's lol.
Y the reason for the electrician pouch?
It holds the tools very nice 👍
an impact gun is for screws for medal studs? i thought a framing nailgun, which is faster, is that used for metal studs? i,m confused. new DIY, er.
Yes yes. All you need is an impact gun. When your fastening the steel track to wood used 1-1/4" drywall screws, track to steel like metal decking use self drilling framing screws, you can use 5/16" to 3/8" hex head self drilling fasteners when setting track to structural steel and when fastening to concrete you can hammer drill and use pin bolts. When it comes time to fastening the studs to the track it's always screws (2 types self drilling and regular) in rare occasions you can use rivets as well. We only use nailers for wood framing but there are powder actuated, battery and gas guns out that shoot pins into concrete or steel but that's only for the track and speeds it up and can save money in the long run. Hope that helps.
@@ConstructionKronies thank you, i have a much better understanding of the tools to use. framing nailgun is for wood framing only.
@@rafiqa1621 glad to hear that.. what I'm here for. If you need further help with any building stuff too just ask. I even have a couple live streams a week where you can ask me questions as well.
@@ConstructionKronies thank you. you are appreciated.
You never use the drywall gun with a 6 inch shaft for framing 20-25 gauge metal? Typically thats how it is now (standard for piece workers) definitely out perform anyone with a impact
I have used it before but my impact is much much faster to use. I don't see how a drywall gun could be faster and I don't mean that to be smart truly. Of course you see guys using them from time to time for framing but the major majority of guys use an impact. Cheers man!
@@ConstructionKronies Crazy how down here in florida the vast majority use the drywall gun with a 6 inch shaft, and trust me when your screwing the bottom studs or ceiling or sophist youll outrun anybody using an impact (since i dont gota stop holding the trigger i can keep going no issues) pretty cool what the standard can be in one place as to other places.
@@robertureta379 I agree. Totally love hearing about other places as well. I use my impact like I do my drywall gun by holding screws in my other hand ready to be loaded so maybe that's why I'm faster with an impact ( I like the compact size of it so I can screw off both sides of a stud easily from the one side) cool man🔥🍻🤘
Not bad we do things a little different. Where’s your notched 1’ square for framing your top track. And why the spring clamp or “ butterfly clamp” ditch that thing and just use your small clamps. We don’t use those break away knives for drywall I could see the use for insulation. Just the way we do it. Good info though. There’s not much for us commercial framers on the tube. Oh and forgot snips are preference really I use straight.m because we use them for more than studs. Maybe you got to cut break metal or corner bead. I can cut metal studs with straights just as fast and easy with straights than rights
Right on man! Sure yes the 1' square is a good tool, I just use my clip for pulling my tape and marking centers, I find the baby clamps break your tape over time. I bet you use the double edge straight blade to cut drywall, another excellent tool, I used to use it all the time, the 1" or 25mm olfa is the big knife that's good for both itch and drywall. I never touch corner bead but yes the yellows are the best for that. Thanks for the input it's good to hear from experienced guys!
Construction Kronies do you guys notch your squares so it gives a true square when laying up against the track?if you clip the tape right in the middle and you don’t need a lot of pressure just brought to keep it put. I feel works better than a spring clamp actually crushing the tape. I mean I know you pinch it just right before the bend of the tape. Just preference I guys I just to run minimal. I want to be as light as possible. I’ll use spring clamps in ceilings so I don’t mark up the grid. I’ve been clamping the same tape for a year now. I just use the old tried and true Stanley power lock. Oh and store your marker upside down it will last longer. And for some reason red last way linger than black. If you haven’t noticed already
@@iandb86 haha yes that is true, red does last longer. Yes I used to notch the square but they come like that now. Good marker tip and yes that's and important tip to be as light weight as possible I always laugh when I see the guys fully loaded with like 10 clamps clanking about. I always switch to my drywall or steel tools never have both in my pouch at the same time.
Construction Kronies lol yea it’s usually the green kids trying to carry everything in them. They buy the biggest bags sold lol. Hell I did it too, but I learned quickly. You work all day just to take your bags off. Don’t make heavier than they need to be. Take care brother. Keep up the good work
@@iandb86 thanks man you too. I'm guilty of it as well haha. Would love to see you around on a livestream we can talk shop!
🤗
Cheers!
Heyy how u been broo
Hey bro, we have been excellent how about yourself,?
Lol I’ll just call you to fix it
Sounds good to me! That's how I make my money! Thank you for taking the time to comment!!
someone should teach, "how to make your own tools".
I remember making a hammer in machine shop that was pretty sweet, it would be cool to learn how to Maguiver tools out of common household items or something lol
Now I know the world is coming to an end...a Canadian that prefers Phillips over Robertson!!!
Haha, I like the Robertson for sure but I dont get a choice all drywall and steel stud framing screws are Phillip's.
For light gauge steel framing and drywalling phillips are quicker to put on the gun...imo robertson's are better for applications that require higher torque like long wood screws or something...
viewed e-bay, this Hilti is an expensive tool. even pre-owned, which i wouldn,t buy unless i know history of useage. they should have a Life time warranty on this tool. don,t they know people still have to eat after purchase?
Yeah ma the best place to buy hilti is right from Hilti there website has all the prices and you should neve r buy for more than what's there. You can buy them right off their website I think. Amazon prices are usually higher.
@@ConstructionKronies i saw the framing nailgun simular to years, it was $1,500.+. from Hilti website. i almost had a heart attack. i have never seen tools so high like that. i have shopped on amazon/ebay, sometimes home depot. never seen that in my life. i kept thinking, they must have a mis-print.
How is a guide point tip for rookies? ?😂😂 those are made for a cleaner cut.
Yeah, I only use them with new guys so they can learn the shape of boxes. I don't like guide points, I get a much cleaner cut with the standard point. The guide points break too easy, I find the standard tip lasts 10x longer. Lastly the guide points make sloppy cuts when pre cutting your boards. That's why I don't reccomend the guide point unless your just learning. I like the larger guide points I think its a 5/32" and the 1/4" for cutting doorways out.
hello from pusa
Hello! I love them two over at Pusa Studios! Thank you for coming by and taking the time to comment!