In my younger days in the 60's and 70's, I rebuilt many engines. Every one that I built, I would do a complete teardown then have the block and head(s) hot tanked and magnafluxed before proceeding with any repairs. More time and $$$$'s but always a success.
I asked the other day why he didnt have the head magnafluxed after having head gasket issues and it overheating who knows how many times. He still hasnt mentioned doing it. Any head I pull off any vehicle gets checked.
You have changed my political views with this comment. Thank you so much for commenting trump 2020. I would have never voted for him if it wasn’t for your comment!
I had a similar issue on my 1955 dodge truck. It didn't mix liquids but the cooling system would froth up after driving for a while. It turned out that when the previous owner had rebuilt the 241 v8, they replaced a coolant passage plug in the top of one of the heads. During that process the head developed a super small crack. Showed up when magnafluxing. So I would say, as others have said, have the block and head magnafluxed. I would bet money on a crack somewhere on that motor.
Could you pull the oil pan then pressure up the coolant system and see if it’s dripping from up inside the engine? Also how about a wrist pin on the engine knocking? Alittle bit of play could cause a knock. Not real familiar with Cummins but maybe another option to check. Good luck
I know you have reinstalled the cam, did you drop a camera into the lifter bore to check it out? Why did you put that follower back in the engine? If you see anything irregular on a cam or lifter the cause must be identified and the cam and lifters need to be replaced. I wouldn't give up on that 24 valve. Stick with 1 engine at a time.Solve the issues then move on to the next one. Having 3 of the same type of engine, all with different issues, causes problems with consentration. Focus, focus, focus. Grandma's engine needs disassembly and a trip to the machine shop for the block and head. Now that I have spouted off and given you such sage info I'm sure I have only added to your frustration. What is V-belt's opinion? Keep up the great videos. Dave
I was thinking the same thing. He felt a ding in the tappet, can see brass on the cam, tappet sticking lets go ahead and reinstall all the bad stuff and rev it to the moon.
I wouldn't give up on the block, that tappet sticking is probably the whole source of the knock. You'd have to drop the pan but I would check the bore for that tappet and see if you feel any imperfections. You could try a new set of billet tappets to score the bore of material or really high grit (1000+) sand paper with your find to remove imperfection if its there, and just light load run it to break it in.
I would swap in a used tappet for that damaged one to see if that helps the noise issue. If that didn't help, then swap in a used cam and used tappets. New is expensive and you have several engines these to borrow parts from to prove what the problem is or isn't.
Rolland... Your a great guy ro have in the garage... Great character...Drive safe, be safe. Tow ya later Rollland.. and Sam, Mt dews under the skirt" walk awaaaaaay slowily, lol" You guys sure accomplished alot this weekend. Oh ya,,,, "Whatever Whatever whatever..." Nice your taken a break now...take care cowboys 🤠 🤠💯🤙
I say change that tappit and possibly the cam just bc of the wear then rules out that problem just my opinion and also get away from the truck for a minute and go wheeling or something
I am feeling very bad for my buddy Sam😟, however Sam has a great spirit and always prevails so I’m sure it will all turn out great in the end🙏🙏🙏, thanks for sharing Sam👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
I would suggest you get the head and oil coolers pressure tested - hot - and see if you can find the leak. Otherwise I would look at the front cover or any other interface between oil and coolant. I also would respectfully suggest to take some time away from the project and clear your mind as you were under time pressure with your buddy there and might have missed something - no disrespect. Enjoy your vids and wish you success.
I was just about to suggest pressure checks at temp. Verifying all mating and interface surfaces at room temp can only account for 90% of potential issues. Some problems don't show up until they have had a few thermal cycles.
I’ve been doin a head gasket change on my 97 12v all weekend messed up the gasket towards the firewall and had coolant pooring out. Tomorrow I’ll b more careful slinging head into the truck.
Now you understand how the quacks feel trying to keep the old and decrepit alive. I am old but not decrepit cuz I never ever go to a quack. That tappet with a fingernail detectable anomaly and the same on the cam for that tappet, could cause a tiny impulse that lifts the tappet from the cam and when it comes back TICK TICK TICK. And if the tappet hangs slightly and then falls back, again TICK TICK TICK
My 99 (53 block) had a milk shake problem. I did the head and gasket and magnifluxed the head. Replaced the oil cooler and redid the head gasket. Just guessed the block was cracked on inside.
Pull the tappet cover off Gram's engine !! Look for cracks in the block just above where the tappets stick out of the block !! That's where they crack !!
I was watching a video here with horse torques diesel those guys know they used to work with the power driven diesel and he was commenting about not all oil cooler gaskets are created equal you might want to go back and look at that possibly that could be where your water leak was from all right you have a good day this is six in a row Jim From Kennerdell a Pennsylvania
@@VBELTandSON you mentioned you pressure tested the oil cooler removed from the engine did you test it cold or hot. An easy way to check for an internal coolant leak is to drain the oil and remove the oil filter leave the drain plug out and pressurize the cooling system with a proper coolant pressure tester and leave it sit over night and see if you get coolant coming out of the filter base (bad oil cooler) or the oil pan ( internal block or head crack or head gasket).
Did you say there was oil in the water? Not many places for that to happen. Pity the other motor has gore back to Texas. You could of tried swapping the oil cooler. A cracked head I would think you would see bubbles in the rad. Is there any were in the water pump that the fluids can mix? Sleep on it, Keep thinking the answer is there somewhere.
That’s why I drive a 6.7 powerstroke. I love cummins just do not think they are what they use to be in some aspects. I have 650,000 miles on my Kenworth 15L isx cummins it’ll have 750,000 by year end and over 1,000,000 next year end this isn’t my first Cummins.
I don’t think the engine is to blame here. All engine have been touched by random unknown 3rd party mechanics of that didn’t know what they were doing and ended up ruining these engines. We are just trying to fix them if possible
my guess is that it has to be that tappet. if not its gotta be something major. and for the original engine if it's not the head gasket or oil cooler I think the only other thing it could be is a cracked head or block. I'm really curious as to whats going on tho
I had a similar issue with a small block I ended up finding a hairline crack in one of the cylinders that you could not see with your eye we filled the block up with water with the heads off and kept turning it over and checked all the cylinder walls
Crack in a head stud hole on the block. Happened on one of my diesel vw's hard to find. Use a led light and go over them all very carefully with the head off.
V-BELT and SON my Fords are going strong. But I only have 250K on the PSD 7.3 auto and 289K on my 94 7.3 IDI ZF-5 speed, which I just finished rebuilding that trans.
@@VBELTandSON "my head gasket went cause 2 bolt were loose causing coolant to leak into the cylinders when the engine cooled down. i figured it was a head gasket cause she smoked white every start up when cold and wouldnt when warm and my coolant was slowly going somwhere. i found the loose bolts when i removed the head. they wernt hand loose but not torqed to spec" www.cumminsforum.com/threads/water-coolant-in-oil.213188/
At 6.50 you mentioned your oil disappeared and at the same time you said you only got 3 outa the 4 gal you put in it definitely sounds like it's eating both oil and coolant or once it mixes turns to milkshake sludge and hanging in the block and rad a bitch to flush out. As far as the other one with the knock did you say it only did it at idle if so possibly bad injector causing a diesel knock then goes away when revved up had this issue in a case tractor dead idle would have a low knock knock knock did valve set eased up a bit I'd sent oil sample in came back fuel in oil not much just a little pulled #6 injector out because thats where the sound was took to diesel shop tested it was dribbling at lower pressures so i figured just replace all 6 had 9000 hours on them pump was done 6 months before because of governor shaft bushings and seals. Well all a person can do is tear the mystery oil/coolant engine down and inspect all parts but like u said takes time good luck on solving these issues interesting vid 👍👍👍
Your not using blocks with the number 53 on the crank case towards the front on driverside. Bad blocks. They start to get cracks until it really breaks.
V-BELT and SON hmm very strange then. I remember seeing on a Greg A video that they can develop some micro cracks in the head as well. But it sure seems to be pushing a lot of oil and coolant if it were to be that small.
tear it back down have the block and head checked! then go from there.. your kinda all over the place. rule this set up bad first them move on from here...
Blow by issue wasn’t actually blow by. Cap on vacuum pump and breather was in the wrong spot. Ppump oil return was in the crank vent. Pistons looked fine
Crazy weekend! But a damn good time, btw I’m still driving haha
I've never heard of three junk Cummins in the same spot
You must have never been to a dodge dealership then
@@iTzKevinFTW what dodge dealerships are slanging 12 valves?...
iTzKevinFTW Duh!
Because people check their parts when rebuilding an engine.
In my younger days in the 60's and 70's, I rebuilt many engines.
Every one that I built, I would do a complete teardown then have the block and head(s) hot tanked and magnafluxed before proceeding with any repairs. More time and $$$$'s but always a success.
If not the HG and not the oil cooler.. has to have a crack the block. 🤷♂️.
I asked the other day why he didnt have the head magnafluxed after having head gasket issues and it overheating who knows how many times. He still hasnt mentioned doing it. Any head I pull off any vehicle gets checked.
Hey at least trump 2020
You have changed my political views with this comment. Thank you so much for commenting trump 2020. I would have never voted for him if it wasn’t for your comment!
I had a similar issue on my 1955 dodge truck. It didn't mix liquids but the cooling system would froth up after driving for a while. It turned out that when the previous owner had rebuilt the 241 v8, they replaced a coolant passage plug in the top of one of the heads. During that process the head developed a super small crack. Showed up when magnafluxing.
So I would say, as others have said, have the block and head magnafluxed. I would bet money on a crack somewhere on that motor.
When engine is running the heat/pressure can be enough to open a 2 way street, and when cold hold pressure
It mixed when it was cold.
Did you try a different tappet in the bad hole to see if it hung up?
I think you got a bad spark plug in number 6 ;>).
Could you pull the oil pan then pressure up the coolant system and see if it’s dripping from up inside the engine? Also how about a wrist pin on the engine knocking? Alittle bit of play could cause a knock. Not real familiar with Cummins but maybe another option to check. Good luck
I know you have reinstalled the cam, did you drop a camera into the lifter bore to check it out? Why did you put that follower back in the engine? If you see anything irregular on a cam or lifter the cause must be identified and the cam and lifters need to be replaced. I wouldn't give up on that 24 valve. Stick with 1 engine at a time.Solve the issues then move on to the next one. Having 3 of the same type of engine, all with different issues, causes problems with consentration. Focus, focus, focus. Grandma's engine needs disassembly and a trip to the machine shop for the block and head. Now that I have spouted off and given you such sage info I'm sure I have only added to your frustration. What is V-belt's opinion? Keep up the great videos. Dave
I was thinking the same thing. He felt a ding in the tappet, can see brass on the cam, tappet sticking lets go ahead and reinstall all the bad stuff and rev it to the moon.
I wouldn't give up on the block, that tappet sticking is probably the whole source of the knock. You'd have to drop the pan but I would check the bore for that tappet and see if you feel any imperfections. You could try a new set of billet tappets to score the bore of material or really high grit (1000+) sand paper with your find to remove imperfection if its there, and just light load run it to break it in.
Did you test the oil cooler in the truck or out? Maybe a mating surface problem from the original overheat those see a lot of pressure on both sides
Take a brake. Flip purple truck and get the engine you want. Nice hat!
Take the cam and tappets out of the 304k mile engine, and put it in the P-pump 24V.
Holy smoke and I thought my ford tractor was PITA. LOL You have patience bro but it’s time to buy a remanufactured engine.
I would get a Hamilton cam and new set of tappets for 24 valve and try that.
I would swap in a used tappet for that damaged one to see if that helps the noise issue. If that didn't help, then swap in a used cam and used tappets. New is expensive and you have several engines these to borrow parts from to prove what the problem is or isn't.
Rolland... Your a great guy ro have in the garage... Great character...Drive safe, be safe. Tow ya later Rollland.. and Sam, Mt dews under the skirt" walk awaaaaaay slowily, lol"
You guys sure accomplished alot this weekend. Oh ya,,,, "Whatever Whatever whatever..." Nice your taken a break now...take care cowboys 🤠 🤠💯🤙
Take the oil filter off the 24v and cut it apart check for metal
If I had to guess I’d say a cracked cylinder head. What about all the blow by on the 24v? That’s an impressive run of bad luck with the cummins.
I say change that tappit and possibly the cam just bc of the wear then rules out that problem just my opinion and also get away from the truck for a minute and go wheeling or something
Grandmas engine probably has a cracked block from getting so hot pull the crank and clean it and maybe you will find it
I am feeling very bad for my buddy Sam😟, however Sam has a great spirit and always prevails so I’m sure it will all turn out great in the end🙏🙏🙏, thanks for sharing Sam👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
Sucks to hear about the 12 valve. I believe that it will work out in the end. Keep moving forward and stay positive.
Dang I hate it for you man! This stuff can drive you crazy. I don’t think you could have a better helper than Roland. He knows his trucks!
I have a 53 block with 315,000 miles on it. Runs great
I would suggest you get the head and oil coolers pressure tested - hot - and see if you can find the leak. Otherwise I would look at the front cover or any other interface between oil and coolant. I also would respectfully suggest to take some time away from the project and clear your mind as you were under time pressure with your buddy there and might have missed something - no disrespect. Enjoy your vids and wish you success.
I was just about to suggest pressure checks at temp.
Verifying all mating and interface surfaces at room temp can only account for 90% of potential issues. Some problems don't show up until they have had a few thermal cycles.
That's too bad about grandmas engine, but I am glad you tried to get it running!
That is why we switched to Deutz and Same air cooled diesel engines on our farm. No more milky oil.
I’ve been doin a head gasket change on my 97 12v all weekend messed up the gasket towards the firewall and had coolant pooring out. Tomorrow I’ll b more careful slinging head into the truck.
Why don't you build a test stand? With all the engines you work on you could use it!
Now you understand how the quacks feel trying to keep the old and decrepit alive. I am old but not decrepit cuz I never ever go to a quack. That tappet with a fingernail detectable anomaly and the same on the cam for that tappet, could cause a tiny impulse that lifts the tappet from the cam and when it comes back TICK TICK TICK. And if the tappet hangs slightly and then falls back, again TICK TICK TICK
Tap it with a hammer and call it a whatever day. Take a break from the engine then start over from the beginning. You well get it figured out.
My 99 (53 block) had a milk shake problem. I did the head and gasket and magnifluxed the head. Replaced the oil cooler and redid the head gasket. Just guessed the block was cracked on inside.
There will be a crack in the block if the oil is coming out like that
It will be a hair line crack that opens up when under pressure
Excellent work
They are all diesels?..... Time to call Gale Banks.... He has a channel, hint hint.
It sound like a hair line crack in the block on that one engine maybe pull parts off the other two to make one
Pull the tappet cover off Gram's engine !!
Look for cracks in the block just above where the tappets stick out of the block !!
That's where they crack !!
I was watching a video here with horse torques diesel those guys know they used to work with the power driven diesel and he was commenting about not all oil cooler gaskets are created equal you might want to go back and look at that possibly that could be where your water leak was from all right you have a good day this is six in a row Jim From Kennerdell a Pennsylvania
An oil cooler will sometimes only show signs of being bad only when it's hot because metal expands when hot
I got it hot. No failure. Let it cool ran it. No failure. Pressurized coolant side while cold. Instant failure!
@@VBELTandSON you mentioned you pressure tested the oil cooler removed from the engine did you test it cold or hot. An easy way to check for an internal coolant leak is to drain the oil and remove the oil filter leave the drain plug out and pressurize the cooling system with a proper coolant pressure tester and leave it sit over night and see if you get coolant coming out of the filter base (bad oil cooler) or the oil pan ( internal block or head crack or head gasket).
I hope if you end up getting a new engine from PDD you stick with the p-pump 24 just to have something a little different.
Did you say there was oil in the water? Not many places for that to happen. Pity the other motor has gore back to Texas. You could of tried swapping the oil cooler. A cracked head I would think you would see bubbles in the rad. Is there any were in the water pump that the fluids can mix? Sleep on it, Keep thinking the answer is there somewhere.
That’s why I drive a 6.7 powerstroke. I love cummins just do not think they are what they use to be in some aspects. I have 650,000 miles on my Kenworth 15L isx cummins it’ll have 750,000 by year end and over 1,000,000 next year end this isn’t my first Cummins.
I don’t think the engine is to blame here. All engine have been touched by random unknown 3rd party mechanics of that didn’t know what they were doing and ended up ruining these engines. We are just trying to fix them if possible
Crazy weekend lol
Casting 53 were know for cracked block, recalled and block stitches (stupid) were put in place!
my guess is that it has to be that tappet. if not its gotta be something major. and for the original engine if it's not the head gasket or oil cooler I think the only other thing it could be is a cracked head or block. I'm really curious as to whats going on tho
Sorry about the bad luck with those engines. That sucks to do all that work for you to still not have one that’s worth a shit!
Crack in the cylinder wall on that 12v. Is the exhaust super smoky? Possible burning the coolant and oil off? Just throw guesses out Lol.
I had a similar issue with a small block I ended up finding a hairline crack in one of the cylinders that you could not see with your eye we filled the block up with water with the heads off and kept turning it over and checked all the cylinder walls
In 1 one of the Cylinders I meant
I'd say just give up on it and find a new engine
Crack in a head stud hole on the block. Happened on one of my diesel vw's hard to find. Use a led light and go over them all very carefully with the head off.
Probably cracked head oil cooler gonna be oil in water not water in oil probably won't hurt to put a straight edge on deck
have send the head out to be magnaflex to find cracks
I would take the head back off and send it to a machine shop and have it checked for cracks. And maybe a cracked block.
Bummer about Gma’s engine:( I’d have to say after exhausting all the other ideas that the head/block is cracked in one of the water jackets🤷🏼♂️
I’d bet grandmas 12 valve has a crack in the head, and maybe try and get a bore scope maybe see if there’s an issue in the bore for the tapped?
Well Damn!!! I guess it will be good luck on the next engine cause you sure ain’t had any yet!!!
I thought only ford has so many issues....🤷🏻♂️🙈
You and me both haha
V-BELT and SON my Fords are going strong. But I only have 250K on the PSD 7.3 auto and 289K on my 94 7.3 IDI ZF-5 speed, which I just finished rebuilding that trans.
Maybe leaking from behind the tappet cover into the crankcase ?
Check them also. All solid
That there is your knock. The tappet is a tapping.
Maybe the cylinder head bolts aren't torqued properly in the correct sequence. Torque check all bolts. Do a compression test too.
We used head studs way tighter than factor and she has solid compression. Not worried about that
@@VBELTandSON "my head gasket went cause 2 bolt were loose causing coolant to leak into the cylinders when the engine cooled down. i figured it was a head gasket cause she smoked white every start up when cold and wouldnt when warm and my coolant was slowly going somwhere. i found the loose bolts when i removed the head. they wernt hand loose but not torqed to spec"
www.cumminsforum.com/threads/water-coolant-in-oil.213188/
Yeah I believe that. This dang engine wasn’t breathing out anything but diesel
I’ve never heard of three bad motors Sam! I would say the either the tappet is fucked or there is a crack somewhere allowing the oil to mix
At 6.50 you mentioned your oil disappeared and at the same time you said you only got 3 outa the 4 gal you put in it definitely sounds like it's eating both oil and coolant or once it mixes turns to milkshake sludge and hanging in the block and rad a bitch to flush out.
As far as the other one with the knock did you say it only did it at idle if so possibly bad injector causing a diesel knock then goes away when revved up had this issue in a case tractor dead idle would have a low knock knock knock did valve set eased up a bit I'd sent oil sample in came back fuel in oil not much just a little pulled #6 injector out because thats where the sound was took to diesel shop tested it was dribbling at lower pressures so i figured just replace all 6 had 9000 hours on them pump was done 6 months before because of governor shaft bushings and seals.
Well all a person can do is tear the mystery oil/coolant engine down and inspect all parts but like u said takes time good luck on solving these issues interesting vid 👍👍👍
Your not using blocks with the number 53 on the crank case towards the front on driverside. Bad blocks. They start to get cracks until it really breaks.
Ol son watch the video please I talk about 53 blocks. They don’t crack inwards anyways. The crack the outside
I would not be using any copper coating on head gasket surfaces.. just saying..
We like to party
High rev self clearance 😆 lmao
Holy crap, if it wasn’t for bad luck you wouldn’t have any.
😂😂
You never know what worse luck your bad luck saved you from.
Dude, beast mode!
Oil cooler gaskets can be a huuuuge PITA.
Still haven’t figured this engine out
@@VBELTandSON i didnt realize this was 2 years old 😂 but yeah man those oil cooler gaskets are a crap shoot, terrible luck with some of them.
I'm not sure if this will be helpful but where your oil filter screws in maybe the ring behind it might be bad
Just make a hat or shirt that says whatever lol
Are u shure it’s not residual oil/water in rad or block drain it again fill it again run it again. Can’t hurt.
It only can get better.
I was looking on line. For 8k$ you can get a remanufactured 12 valve for these trucks
Yup. What site were you looking on?
@@VBELTandSON okay I guess it was 10k$ but here's a link moparpowertrain.com/product/r8464881aa-5-9l-cummins-diesel-reman-long-block-copy/
@@VBELTandSON reviva also remanufactures 12 valve cummins engines to. And they are on the cheaper side
I hadn’t seen that place before. I’m interested.
@@VBELTandSON the mopar reman one also has a 2 year 100,000 mile warranty on it. I don't think reviva has a warranty on there engines though
Sam I feel your pain… I wish you luck man
My 98 12 valve decided to blow up and I went with a reviva long block, it ran great!
How much you pay?
V-BELT and SON I think it was around 10 grand unfortunately
V-BELT and SON could the head on your grandmas engine be warped? Maybe have it gone through at a machine shop to see if it’s flat?
She’s nice and straight. Didn’t show any sign of not being straight
V-BELT and SON hmm very strange then. I remember seeing on a Greg A video that they can develop some micro cracks in the head as well. But it sure seems to be pushing a lot of oil and coolant if it were to be that small.
maybe a cracked valve seat? 24 valves are known for that I hear.
I got the perfect 12 valve motor for you it's in Cheyenne Wyoming it comes with the transmission stage 2 torque converter kit
Excellent work and thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care
Head gasket busted again
Have heads planed
Zero signs of head gasket failure on the first one. Head wasn’t warped
my go to answer tanerite 556
check the cylinder walls
Oil cooler bet money on it
Ram engine 20 minutes with 70psi oil pressure. ZERO OIL in coolant
@@VBELTandSON I would have the head magnafluxed then might be some small cracks you can't see
Yup not bad idea but worth a shot to throw some time at it and hope for the best. Not end of the world where it is now
Probably a dumb question but how do you tag your stuff to power driven Diesel on Instagram or whatever you was talking about? Good vid
Time for a new approach. A hemi maybe. Lol
Seems like it would have been cheaper at this point to have had the original just sent in and rebuilt lol
Might have been easier but not cheaper
@@VBELTandSON true i love less frustration lol
Neexr step 5.9 common rail swap out of wrecked truck.
tear it back down have the block and head checked! then go from there.. your kinda all over the place. rule this set up bad first them move on from here...
Cheaper to order a reman
So, what's Rolland's channel name or link?
ruclips.net/channel/UC2LLZhuJEPi2Tg2JKvvFwcQ
@@brandonmcgrady5866 Thanks mate!
That bites the big one.
I have a 53 block 24 valve
If you need anything let me know and i am willing to ship it to you
CAT SWAP IT
Still has a bad piston on the 24v. I'm going to keep saying it til you fix it or ban me! Lol
...a bad cam won't cause blow-by.
Blow by issue wasn’t actually blow by. Cap on vacuum pump and breather was in the wrong spot. Ppump oil return was in the crank vent. Pistons looked fine
Oh man so frustrating
Nice shirt!
Those guys know there stuff
Do you want to sell any of those 12 valve bad engines?
Wondering if a cooling system by-pass like the one Fleece Performance sells would help with over pressure of the block on the 53 blocks.
I’d say so
Wasn’t this engine pushing a lot of oil out also?