This is one of the best build videos I’ve ever seen...thank you for making it...I’ve learned a lot from you here. I also admire your humility by admitting your mistakes. Frying a board after all that intricate soldering is definitely one of the worst feelings...worse than losing a drone if you ask me. I made the exact same mistake recently, so I feel your pain. I’ve been working on a number of 1s long range drone projects lately, and I plan on doing one of these 18650 builds as soon as I finish my current project, so your video was very helpful. I especially appreciate you showing how to setup smartaudio on a softserial port. Thanks again, I look forward to seeing more of your work.
@tripleheart first of all thank you for your comment, it made my day :) Frying the board was definitely frustrating however, it is part of the learning process. Now, I check at least three times before popping in the battery. I'm going to add an extra mosfet to prevent that mistake in the future. I checked out your channel and subscribed - very cool work you're doing with mini whoops!
@@AndrewMurphy8383 sure, you could fly it line of sight and not use a camera. However, it might be a lot to handle if you're an inexperienced pilot. Good luck and let us know if you build it :)
Keep your backgroundmusic and your soundlevel! 👍👍👍 ... Subscribed 👍 Tolle Hintergrundmusik und schön unaufdringlich. Gute Sprachverständlichkeit, weiter so 👍
One of the best DIY nano long range videos so far. Well thought out, complete and with plenty of details. Pity you did not catch the magic smoke on cam.. :)
Thank you fro your comment :) It actually happened when I was showing someone the finished product. I was feeling rather proud of myself, put the battery in and was explaining how I built it, when I noticed the smoke... Epic fail :D
This is an excellent video! Thank you for all the detail and great explanation. I feel like I learned so much over the half hour spent watching. That's a sweet little build.
Haha, thanks. Exactly, right? It was a strange situation. The funny thing is, his wife came a minute later, smiled at me and reluctantly sat down... I think pops embarrassed her XD
@@nuxnik Die Drohne ist endlich angekommen! Overall it looks very nice, it was packaged securely with foam around the arms. for a beginner it was not easy to set up but everything was documented. the build quality seems okay. the printed parts weren't that good, I already broke them in indoor testing lol. but that gave me a reason to reprint them. I haven't flew it with the new parts yet bcs I'm doing it right now. the flight performance seems not bad how it came out of the box but no real "long range" test yet.
@@squnxfisher9831 sehr schön :) Too bad the frame broke, but that is the advantage of a 3d printed drone - you can always print a new one. I have a few frames printed for my nanolongrange just in case I break one. Ich wünsche dir viel Erfolg bei den weiteren Tests!
Nux, you can add a mini switch to avoid that connector from the battery to the FC , also you avoid some loss from the battery connector , Thanks for SHaring.
Hey, thanks for the guide! I'm a beginner looking for my first outdoor quad (just doing indoor whoops for now), and while this specific drone might be too advanced for now, it was really nice to see a detailed video putting it together.
Hey Kyle, I from what I've seen on your channel, I don't think you'd have a problem building your own. ;) Looking forward to seeing the finished result (subbed).
@@nuxnik Thank you! I have a fun video coming up in a couple weeks on a project I've been working on for a few months, should be my highest quality video, you'll like it! I think I decided for a first outdoor quad, I'll stick with a kit so I can get a feel for flying, but if I am still with the hobby later on, I will come back to this!
Amazing job! I hope you can fly it to this date! :D Just three more questions: 1- What would you do to prevent another accident by inserting the battery the wrong way? 2- Will you make another DIY video of a nano long range soon, with more recent components? 3- I saw the video with the insta 360, and i was wondering: whats the max. weight for this little guy? Thank you! :D
Thanks for your comment. 1. I ended up putting a red label marker on the positive side of the battery tray, so it is easier to check the polarity of the battery. 2. Maybe. I have already made a few updates - antenna mast, smaller GPS module, a buzzer, frame redesign. 3. I'll weigh it when I get home and let you know. Thanks again :D
Nice build mate. Im about to review one dhortly! What have you set your warning voltages at. I have it when rude people bother me during flights. Grrrrrr. 👊👍🍻
Thanks for the comment! :D For the videos the warning voltage level was set too high (2.9V). I have since changed it to 2.7 and have less noise in my OSD. Haha, that's true, I haven't had a run-in like that in long time. Some people are just clueless when it comes to manners. :D
Liked and Subscribed =D Thanks for this! Im going to build one of these this winter. should be a fun project. Great job on the video production! Sorry about the board but hopefully your mistake will save others from doing the same thing. I would be interested in seeing a video about that diode you mentioned on one of your comments to protect it from this issue.
Thanks for subscribing. Yes, that is something I have been thinking about. I will probably make a video about that and some other modifications I have made since releasing the build video. Thanks again :)
That is an excellent question. My interest in electronics started when I got my ham radio license as a teenager in the 90s. Studying for my ham radio license was a good introduction for me about basic electronics and radio theory. Nowadays, I am software developer but have always kept my roots in the hardware/electronics world. I would never call myself a guru in the subject. Becoming proficient in the field of electronics requires a learning mindset - you'll learn new things every day even after many years. In my humble opinion, learning basic electronics as a hobbyist should be more hands on than theoretical. In other words, get a good kit about basic electronics and learn some of the theory behind what is happening. At the same time you are learning the theory, build something from the kit. This will get you much farther than just reading about theory and not putting it into practice. Some of the Arduino starter kits are good places to start: www.amazon.com/EL-KIT-008-Project-Complete-Ultimate-TUTORIAL/dp/B01EWNUUUA They come complete with sensors, passive components and a manual. A kit like this will help you understand basic electronics and programming and how the two disciplines intertwine. The internet is a virtual treasure vault of information on how to get started - especially RUclips. As far as soldering goes, get a soldering iron and practice - it is a learned skill that only gets better the more you do it. Getting into electronics and programming can be an absolute game changer. Technologically, we are at a very important turning point in human history. Having knowledge about how things work and why, will make you see the world in a different light. We live in exciting times. Stick with it! I wish you the best of luck!
I should have just built my own. I got the happy model crux3nlr and it flies great but the gps don't work. Checked my wiring and all is how it should be. I get satellites when its hooked up to betaflight but not off of battery power. I tried different modules all act the same. I'm thinking maybe the 18650 doesn't provide enough power however im getting 4.8 volts.
It's never too late to build your own ;) However, that's a good question. As you already said, it sounds like a power issue. Check the voltage with a multimeter on the pad that you are using to power the module. Although unlikely, it might have soldered it to a 3V pad. While you're at it probe around the FC with your multimeter your FC might be faulty. Good luck!
Mornin, Sir. Epppicccc video. I've never built a drone and wanted to get into it. Would you consider this a good and cheap beginners project? I own a 3D printer and would like to try myself on a project which includes printing your own frame. I'm also German and if I'm not mistaken we can fly drones up to 250 gr in the category OPEN. At the end of the day I would like to fly a racing copter which I can use to make proper high quality videos (I suppose one with a GoPro attached to it, is how most people do this). What would you advise me (also considering German law). Should I build sth like the nano drone to practice flying and get some experience in this hobby or should I rather build a drone in the 200 - 250 gr weight class, which comes closer to a proper racing copter and wouldn't even cost that much more?
Moin moin, und danke für deinen Kommentar! :) I'll try to answer all your questions in succession, in order to keep it organized: 1. Would you consider this a good and cheap beginners project? - One would think that a project like this is cheaper than a prebuilt drone or a drone kit. Unfortunately it isn't very cheap. The cost of the components are the most expensive part of any drone, and the 3D printed frame only makes up a fraction of the total cost. I broke down the costs in an article I wrote for this build. You can check it out here: nuxnik.com/nanolongrange-build-guide/ 2. I'm not mistaken we can fly drones up to 250 gr in the category OPEN - Yes, that is true. In Germany this drone will classify in the A1 OPEN category. I even think this drone might qualify as a toy: www.easa.europa.eu/domains/civil-drones-rpas/open-category-civil-drones 3. I would like to fly a racing copter which I can use to make proper high quality videos - This drone can probably carry an Insta360 Go camera at the most. Due the the limited punch supplied by the 18650, the weight it can carry is very limited. Speaking of Insta360 Go, I will probably do a short video in the future to see if it can carry it. 4. Should I build sth like the nano drone to practice flying and get some experience in this hobby or should I rather build a drone in the 200 - 250 gr weight class, which comes closer to a proper racing copter and wouldn't even cost that much more? - This is a complex question. I wouldn't recommend this project to anyone getting started in the RC hobby unless you have previous electronics experience and tools and all the extra FPV gear (goggles, transmitter, batteries, chargers, antennas etc.). This hobby is very immersive and can get rather expensive. If you are just starting, you should first get a transmitter, a flight simulator (Velocidrone or Liftoff) and a mini whoop for flying around the house. Happymodel Mobula6 or Moblite6 are good starter drones. Building a quadcopter is kind of like building a PC or a car. You select the components that best suit what you want to do. In RC there are many many categories, racing, freestyle, long range, LOS, FPV, copters, fix-wing etc. Each category has it's own way of doing things. It seems to me you are the type of person who likes to build stuff. In diesem Sinne, wünsche ich dir viel Erfolg. Ich habe deinen Kanal abonniert und ich freue mich auf dein erstes FPV-Video.
Nice building guide! I build this one top, gut i have a Problem. My Version can't geht higher as 5cm. The only diffrence are the Motors, i used the HGLRC Aeolus with 11600kv. Did you habe some troubleshooting Tips?
Danke für deinen Kommentar! ;) Hm, this is strange... But it could be many things. Maybe check the voltage with a multi-meter directly from the board to make sure enough power is getting through. Check the current draw in the OSD and make sure it is not abnormally high. Is your Buck-boost/LC filter outputting more than 5V? You might need to adjust it... You could also check that the ESC protocol is set to DSHOT600. Check to see if you have not throttled your motor KV in the PIDs section - check that the value is 100%. The board could also be defective. Good luck and let us know if you found a solution!
Hey there buddy! Sorry to bother you asking for help but I followed your guidelines and I still can't get it to lift. The symptoms are the same as if I were using a low discharge battery; as the motors ramp up the whole system will shut down. However I tried with different DC converters and with different high-discharge battery brands, and the problem persists. I have pretty much the same hardware as you, the only thing that changes is the receiver (I'm using FlySky). Thank you for the AWESOME video, and any help/guidelines would be greatly appreciated :)
Thank you! Sorry to hear it isn't working. This could be many things. Here is a list of things I would probably do to debug the problem: 1. Make sure the battery is fully charged 4.2V 2. Re-check all the wiring 3. In betaflight: check the motor direction 4. In betaflight check that the motors are correctly assigned 5. Make sure the propellers are mounted in the correct direction. 6. Make sure a screw isn't touching the motor coils. 7. In betaflight check that turtle mode isn't active by default. If all else fails, try re-flashing your board that way you can start with a fresh configuration and reconfigure the drone from zero. If that doesn't work, you might have a faulty board. Let us know if you fix the problem and I wish you luck!
@@nuxnik Thank you so much for your early reply and for your great tips. Some of them I didn't even think of. However it turned out to be the dumbest thing. I was powering the flight controller through the buck converter, and not directly from the battery. I got confused because the first diagram you showed with the buck and LC filter did not show the flight controller. But as you very well mention in 5:30, the battery "will be wired directly into the flight controller". My fault for not listening. And sure enough, I checked the board specifications and it definitely can take 1S 3.2V power. And the buck converter can only output a maximum of 1.3A. I haven't tried out the fix yet but I'm pretty confident it will work. Thank you so much!
Great build guide... I have the carbon version of this frame, gonna build it up soon. I have to say, pretty rude by that guy... he could have at least asked you to move your stuff instead of just shoving it over. 🤷♂️
Thanks! Yeah, some people are clueless. He probably thought - "these young kids with their flying machines and MTV have no respect". Haha. Good luck with your build, this is a fun one :D
I haven't noticed any core temperature problems with the JEHMUC board. In fact, until now, I'm more than pleased with the overall performance of the FC.
Thank you for making this video! It is very helpful. I am new to drone making, and I am trying to get my part list together to build it. I have a flysky fs i6 remote, do you know what receiver and antennas would work for this? Also, I will be using the Zeus5 AIO. Do you know of a vtx that would work with this?
Thank you! For a flysky remote, you will need a flysky receiver (the antennas are usually included). As far as a VTX goes, as long as it is small and compact, it should be fine. The Eachine Nano VTX I used in the video worked well for me. Good luck with your build!
a project that interests me, I also follow how to make it, I use fc crazybee f4 lite, vtx, esc aio, camera caddx eos, happymodel 1203 kv11000 motor, props gemfan 3018 2 blade, and I use 1s 18650 battery too, but I get a failure at arm time, the motor spins for a while after that the fc restarts, then I try to remove the props, the engine spins smoothly, is there something missing in the manufacture? I see in your component there is a capacitor, I don't use it, what is the effect of not using the capacitor?
It sounds like your FC/ESC is browning out because it is not getting enough current. You might want to try an 18650 with a better C rating. The capacitor is not necessary, however it is there to smooth and filter the current flow from the battery. This filters the noise that is transmitted through your video signal. I would recommend adding one, it will make the video in your goggles look much better. Good luck and keep us updated! :)
Thank you for your comment, and good question. I have been using the hand drill in the video for years. It's a very handy little tool to have: www.amazon.com/XT-AUTO-Micro-Spiral-Manual/dp/B07GB6T7VB/
nice build... but..iam so confused if use XM+, my part its same : Jhemchu Play F4, GPS BN180, nano Eachine VTX. BTW can I use SoftSerial for VTX resource at CLI just like u config at BF?
Thank you for your comment. Essentially, yes you should be able to follow my tutorial and get it to work. However, here are some differences in your case since your are using XM+: 1. XM+ uses SBUS which means you need to solder it to the pad labeled "S". The good news is, you won't need softserial because you will have an extra TX pad open (T1). This can be wired directly to your Eachine Nano VTX. 2. In my video for configuration I selected the SmartAudio protocol in the ports section. This is wrong, you should select "Tramp" 3. When configuring your receiver select SBUS / Frsky_X in the configuration tab I wish you success in your build! Check back with us when you're finished!
This is awesome! Thanks for all the info on this! I was flipping through the parts that I need to get and it looks like the TBS CROSSFIRE NANO RX - FPV LONG RANGE DRONE RECEIVER is out of stock. Got a recommendation for something that can be used as an alternative? I am guessing really any nano rx but there might be something I'm missing
You can probably find the same receiver on aliexpress or banggood. There are many different types of receivers out there. I chose the TBS nano RX because I wanted to test the long range aspect of the drone. Express LRS is also a great alternative to TBS crossfire. Good luck with your build!
I would suggest Express LRS. Its the best of all worlds. Lowest price for receivers, longest range, and lowest latency. Still pretty new compared to the other options but it seems to be the future of TX/RX
Hello, I used a rubber band to mount it over the 18650. I have also designed a holder for it. If you have a 3d printer, you can download the files here and print it: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871771 The time for a GPS signal sync depends. Somewhere between 2-5 minutes.
I wonder what the flight time would be without the microphone and camera, maybe make these into a drone show style drone with low-power LED instead given it has GPS, do you think that's doable?
Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean a boost in flight performance without the weight of the camera and VTX? You could install iNav on it and send it out to fly missions autonomously without a camera I suppose.
Hi Roman, thanks for the comment. Sorry for the long wait, I didn't see your comment for some reason. I weighed my frame and it weighs exactly 15g. This weight can vary from build to build depending on the material and infill. I used PLA and 20% infill with the print. I hope that helps :)
Thanks and good question! The reason is that the FC doesn't always output 5v. That is what the boost converter is for. Also when the voltage drops the voltage booster keeps the vtx signal alive.
Thanks for the explanation. Regarding the burnt of the fc, did you put a diode to prevent it happens again? Because I would like to have some protection here but I fear that the drop of the voltage of the diode can be to high for the fc…
@@giuliomelacarne5439 a diode is not the correct component because of the voltage drop. You should use a mosfet instead. See this article: www.rs20.net/w/2013/02/using-mosfets-as-blocking-diodes-reverse-polarity-protection/ I'm glad you asked - I will make a video about all the nanolongrange updates I have made over the last 10 months. I have made quite a few of them :)
Great build, I use that FC all the time on my whoops/toothpicks. had to say thank you I never thought to put heat shrink on my helping hands. I had it installed before i finished the video
Thanks for your comment :) This small board is starting to become a favorite of mine. I have already used it in two other projects (the build videos are in progress).
@@nuxnik Its a great board, used to be cheaper on bgood. the new price has me looking at the betafpv 1s 12a board now. as this one seems to break when trying to turtle my toothpick.
Thanks for the comment and good question. Yes you can, and it should work. The only drawback is that you might not get the same longer flight times as the 1202.5 motors. Let us know how it turns out!
Good question. The signal is good old analog. Usually you can tell a digital signal by the higher image quality. A digital VTX would probably be possible with the new digital VTXs on the market. However it might eat up too much current from the single battery and cause a brown out. It's worth a test though :)
Thanks for the question and comment. The booster in this case, takes the nominal voltage of the battery (4.2V) and boosts it to 5V so that the VTX has enough power to run. In other words, the VTX requires at least 5V to function properly.
@@nuxnik interesting, now is this a normal procedure on most builds or just on your particular build in this video? Sorry for the question just never heard of the device before. Still a newbie
@@cold-frontin_penguin7902 no problem :) Using a booster circuit is necessary for this particular build because of the single cell 18650 battery. This build is unique and not a typical FPV drone.
Also, the LC filter in conjunction with the booster is there to smooth spikes in the current from the battery. Without the LC filter, the video signal would be choppy and would degrade the video quality.
Thank you for your comment! As a first drone, it is probably a good idea to build one from a kit. The Eachine tyro79 is a nice kit. You get all the necessary components except for the receiver and the batteries. However, before buying the kit, it is best to look into all the other stuff that is involved in getting into the hobby. A nice place to ask questions is intofpv.com Good luck!
@@nuxnik I've got a garage full of car tools (including for electrical) so i should be good on that end. Thank you for the suggesting and I look forward to the next video!
Thanks for the comment. I built this drone almost 2 years ago. At that time, the total cost was 143,82€. You can find a parts list in my blog article about this build. Since then, the market has changed including the prices for the components, so I'm really not sure what it would cost today.
That depends on a few factors. Weather, line of sight (terrain), antennas and the amount of transmission power for both the VTX and the TX system. I have flown mine 2 km in one direction - 4km round trip. I could have flown farther but didn't want to risk losing it.
thank you.
You can watch the video and follow it slowly!
I love it because it's such a friendly video!
Im here in the middle of thinking man that looks like a pain to do but kinda fun then you said you fried the board and my heart sank for you
Thanks for the condolences, it was a pain to re-wire a new board. But made it all the more fun when it finally was in the air :D
This is one of the best build videos I’ve ever seen...thank you for making it...I’ve learned a lot from you here. I also admire your humility by admitting your mistakes. Frying a board after all that intricate soldering is definitely one of the worst feelings...worse than losing a drone if you ask me. I made the exact same mistake recently, so I feel your pain. I’ve been working on a number of 1s long range drone projects lately, and I plan on doing one of these 18650 builds as soon as I finish my current project, so your video was very helpful. I especially appreciate you showing how to setup smartaudio on a softserial port. Thanks again, I look forward to seeing more of your work.
@tripleheart first of all thank you for your comment, it made my day :) Frying the board was definitely frustrating however, it is part of the learning process. Now, I check at least three times before popping in the battery. I'm going to add an extra mosfet to prevent that mistake in the future. I checked out your channel and subscribed - very cool work you're doing with mini whoops!
Hey poor lady
@@nuxnik do you think i could buuild the same nano but with out fpv gear
@@AndrewMurphy8383 sure, you could fly it line of sight and not use a camera. However, it might be a lot to handle if you're an inexperienced pilot. Good luck and let us know if you build it :)
@@nuxnik i just wonder not my first drone plus would i need the lc filter then
Best of budget fpv.. nice tutorial. Auto subs champ
Thanks I appreciate it :)
Keep your backgroundmusic and your soundlevel! 👍👍👍
... Subscribed 👍
Tolle Hintergrundmusik und schön unaufdringlich. Gute Sprachverständlichkeit, weiter so 👍
Dankeschön :D
Very detailed. Thank you for recording this one for us.
Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it :D
One of the best DIY nano long range videos so far. Well thought out, complete and with plenty of details. Pity you did not catch the magic smoke on cam.. :)
Thank you fro your comment :) It actually happened when I was showing someone the finished product. I was feeling rather proud of myself, put the battery in and was explaining how I built it, when I noticed the smoke... Epic fail :D
Thanks for the great video. It’s one of the best build videos I’ve ever seen!
Thank you very much. I glad you found my video helpful :D
This is an excellent video! Thank you for all the detail and great explanation. I feel like I learned so much over the half hour spent watching. That's a sweet little build.
Thank you very much for your comment. I'm glad I could help :D
Great build and flight. Middle of nowhere and pops has to take a seat. Lol. Excuse your stuff man. 😄 Thansk for sharing 👍🏼👍🏼
Haha, thanks. Exactly, right? It was a strange situation. The funny thing is, his wife came a minute later, smiled at me and reluctantly sat down... I think pops embarrassed her XD
Awesome little drone. You have some serious building skills and great tech knowledge 👏
Thanks 👍
mir gefällt die Musikwahl ;)
recently ordered one made from HGLRC and bought the LC filter and buck converter with it.
can't wait until it arrives
Danke für den Kommentar! Let us know how the HGLRC version flies :)
@@nuxnik Die Drohne ist endlich angekommen!
Overall it looks very nice, it was packaged securely with foam around the arms.
for a beginner it was not easy to set up but everything was documented.
the build quality seems okay. the printed parts weren't that good, I already broke them in indoor testing lol.
but that gave me a reason to reprint them.
I haven't flew it with the new parts yet bcs I'm doing it right now.
the flight performance seems not bad how it came out of the box but no real "long range" test yet.
@@squnxfisher9831 sehr schön :)
Too bad the frame broke, but that is the advantage of a 3d printed drone - you can always print a new one. I have a few frames printed for my nanolongrange just in case I break one.
Ich wünsche dir viel Erfolg bei den weiteren Tests!
Very awesome build, I really enjoyed the video till the very end. Keep it up!
Thank you for the kind words!
That is what I searched for , thank you 🙏
Thank you for the comment, I'm glad I could help.
COOOOL!!!! )))
great tutorial.pls upload more flying videos
Thanks, glad you liked it :) I will be uploading some more flight footage in soon.
Thank you sir, this video earned another sub for you
Nux, you can add a mini switch to avoid that connector from the battery to the FC , also you avoid some loss from the battery connector , Thanks for SHaring.
Hi Rolo, that's a good idea thanks for the tip. :)
yeah thtat convinced me to actually buy the components for the frame i 3d printed haha. nice build video!
Awesome! Good luck with your build!
Same here. Nice vid and attention to details. Love the terminal art.
@@DKAS-g4h Thanks for the comment! Let us know how your build turns out.
Hey, thanks for the guide! I'm a beginner looking for my first outdoor quad (just doing indoor whoops for now), and while this specific drone might be too advanced for now, it was really nice to see a detailed video putting it together.
Hey Kyle, I from what I've seen on your channel, I don't think you'd have a problem building your own. ;) Looking forward to seeing the finished result (subbed).
@@nuxnik Thank you! I have a fun video coming up in a couple weeks on a project I've been working on for a few months, should be my highest quality video, you'll like it!
I think I decided for a first outdoor quad, I'll stick with a kit so I can get a feel for flying, but if I am still with the hobby later on, I will come back to this!
@@kylefisher9250 Cool, I'll keep an eye out for your new video. One of my favorite things is do is watch people building things. Good luck! :D
@@nuxnik Thanks! I put up a teaser, it's a novelty 3D printer mod, you might like it!
Very helpful video
Thanks
Thank you, glad it could help :)
Your intro is beautiful
Amazing job! I hope you can fly it to this date! :D
Just three more questions: 1- What would you do to prevent another accident by inserting the battery the wrong way?
2- Will you make another DIY video of a nano long range soon, with more recent components?
3- I saw the video with the insta 360, and i was wondering: whats the max. weight for this little guy?
Thank you! :D
Thanks for your comment. 1. I ended up putting a red label marker on the positive side of the battery tray, so it is easier to check the polarity of the battery. 2. Maybe. I have already made a few updates - antenna mast, smaller GPS module, a buzzer, frame redesign. 3. I'll weigh it when I get home and let you know. Thanks again :D
This is great stuff 👍
Thanks a ton :)
Great build video, but no Gps on a long range craft, what could possibly go wrong?
Fallout ambiance fit well
Nice build mate. Im about to review one dhortly! What have you set your warning voltages at. I have it when rude people bother me during flights. Grrrrrr. 👊👍🍻
Thanks for the comment! :D For the videos the warning voltage level was set too high (2.9V). I have since changed it to 2.7 and have less noise in my OSD.
Haha, that's true, I haven't had a run-in like that in long time. Some people are just clueless when it comes to manners. :D
Liked and Subscribed =D Thanks for this! Im going to build one of these this winter. should be a fun project. Great job on the video production! Sorry about the board but hopefully your mistake will save others from doing the same thing. I would be interested in seeing a video about that diode you mentioned on one of your comments to protect it from this issue.
Thanks for subscribing. Yes, that is something I have been thinking about. I will probably make a video about that and some other modifications I have made since releasing the build video. Thanks again :)
How did you learn how to solder and about electrical components? Where would you recommend a noob like me to look to get on this level?
That is an excellent question. My interest in electronics started when I got my ham radio license as a teenager in the 90s. Studying for my ham radio license was a good introduction for me about basic electronics and radio theory. Nowadays, I am software developer but have always kept my roots in the hardware/electronics world. I would never call myself a guru in the subject. Becoming proficient in the field of electronics requires a learning mindset - you'll learn new things every day even after many years.
In my humble opinion, learning basic electronics as a hobbyist should be more hands on than theoretical. In other words, get a good kit about basic electronics and learn some of the theory behind what is happening. At the same time you are learning the theory, build something from the kit. This will get you much farther than just reading about theory and not putting it into practice. Some of the Arduino starter kits are good places to start: www.amazon.com/EL-KIT-008-Project-Complete-Ultimate-TUTORIAL/dp/B01EWNUUUA They come complete with sensors, passive components and a manual. A kit like this will help you understand basic electronics and programming and how the two disciplines intertwine. The internet is a virtual treasure vault of information on how to get started - especially RUclips. As far as soldering goes, get a soldering iron and practice - it is a learned skill that only gets better the more you do it.
Getting into electronics and programming can be an absolute game changer. Technologically, we are at a very important turning point in human history. Having knowledge about how things work and why, will make you see the world in a different light. We live in exciting times. Stick with it! I wish you the best of luck!
I should have just built my own. I got the happy model crux3nlr and it flies great but the gps don't work. Checked my wiring and all is how it should be. I get satellites when its hooked up to betaflight but not off of battery power. I tried different modules all act the same. I'm thinking maybe the 18650 doesn't provide enough power however im getting 4.8 volts.
It's never too late to build your own ;) However, that's a good question. As you already said, it sounds like a power issue. Check the voltage with a multimeter on the pad that you are using to power the module. Although unlikely, it might have soldered it to a 3V pad. While you're at it probe around the FC with your multimeter your FC might be faulty. Good luck!
did a similar one from Baby Tooth, 1S 3", was also in the air for about 10 minutes.✌👍
Cool. I think I need to try some better 18650s to get some longer flight time. On average I can only fly ca. 12-15 mins.
Mornin, Sir. Epppicccc video. I've never built a drone and wanted to get into it. Would you consider this a good and cheap beginners project? I own a 3D printer and would like to try myself on a project which includes printing your own frame. I'm also German and if I'm not mistaken we can fly drones up to 250 gr in the category OPEN. At the end of the day I would like to fly a racing copter which I can use to make proper high quality videos (I suppose one with a GoPro attached to it, is how most people do this).
What would you advise me (also considering German law). Should I build sth like the nano drone to practice flying and get some experience in this hobby or should I rather build a drone in the 200 - 250 gr weight class, which comes closer to a proper racing copter and wouldn't even cost that much more?
Moin moin, und danke für deinen Kommentar! :) I'll try to answer all your questions in succession, in order to keep it organized:
1. Would you consider this a good and cheap beginners project? - One would think that a project like this is cheaper than a prebuilt drone or a drone kit. Unfortunately it isn't very cheap. The cost of the components are the most expensive part of any drone, and the 3D printed frame only makes up a fraction of the total cost. I broke down the costs in an article I wrote for this build. You can check it out here: nuxnik.com/nanolongrange-build-guide/
2. I'm not mistaken we can fly drones up to 250 gr in the category OPEN - Yes, that is true. In Germany this drone will classify in the A1 OPEN category. I even think this drone might qualify as a toy: www.easa.europa.eu/domains/civil-drones-rpas/open-category-civil-drones
3. I would like to fly a racing copter which I can use to make proper high quality videos - This drone can probably carry an Insta360 Go camera at the most. Due the the limited punch supplied by the 18650, the weight it can carry is very limited. Speaking of Insta360 Go, I will probably do a short video in the future to see if it can carry it.
4. Should I build sth like the nano drone to practice flying and get some experience in this hobby or should I rather build a drone in the 200 - 250 gr weight class, which comes closer to a proper racing copter and wouldn't even cost that much more? - This is a complex question. I wouldn't recommend this project to anyone getting started in the RC hobby unless you have previous electronics experience and tools and all the extra FPV gear (goggles, transmitter, batteries, chargers, antennas etc.). This hobby is very immersive and can get rather expensive. If you are just starting, you should first get a transmitter, a flight simulator (Velocidrone or Liftoff) and a mini whoop for flying around the house. Happymodel Mobula6 or Moblite6 are good starter drones. Building a quadcopter is kind of like building a PC or a car. You select the components that best suit what you want to do. In RC there are many many categories, racing, freestyle, long range, LOS, FPV, copters, fix-wing etc. Each category has it's own way of doing things. It seems to me you are the type of person who likes to build stuff.
In diesem Sinne, wünsche ich dir viel Erfolg. Ich habe deinen Kanal abonniert und ich freue mich auf dein erstes FPV-Video.
Nice building guide! I build this one top, gut i have a Problem. My Version can't geht higher as 5cm. The only diffrence are the Motors, i used the HGLRC Aeolus with 11600kv.
Did you habe some troubleshooting Tips?
Danke für deinen Kommentar! ;) Hm, this is strange... But it could be many things. Maybe check the voltage with a multi-meter directly from the board to make sure enough power is getting through. Check the current draw in the OSD and make sure it is not abnormally high. Is your Buck-boost/LC filter outputting more than 5V? You might need to adjust it... You could also check that the ESC protocol is set to DSHOT600. Check to see if you have not throttled your motor KV in the PIDs section - check that the value is 100%. The board could also be defective. Good luck and let us know if you found a solution!
Hey there buddy! Sorry to bother you asking for help but I followed your guidelines and I still can't get it to lift. The symptoms are the same as if I were using a low discharge battery; as the motors ramp up the whole system will shut down. However I tried with different DC converters and with different high-discharge battery brands, and the problem persists. I have pretty much the same hardware as you, the only thing that changes is the receiver (I'm using FlySky). Thank you for the AWESOME video, and any help/guidelines would be greatly appreciated :)
Thank you! Sorry to hear it isn't working. This could be many things. Here is a list of things I would probably do to debug the problem:
1. Make sure the battery is fully charged 4.2V
2. Re-check all the wiring
3. In betaflight: check the motor direction
4. In betaflight check that the motors are correctly assigned
5. Make sure the propellers are mounted in the correct direction.
6. Make sure a screw isn't touching the motor coils.
7. In betaflight check that turtle mode isn't active by default.
If all else fails, try re-flashing your board that way you can start with a fresh configuration and reconfigure the drone from zero. If that doesn't work, you might have a faulty board. Let us know if you fix the problem and I wish you luck!
@@nuxnik Thank you so much for your early reply and for your great tips. Some of them I didn't even think of. However it turned out to be the dumbest thing. I was powering the flight controller through the buck converter, and not directly from the battery. I got confused because the first diagram you showed with the buck and LC filter did not show the flight controller. But as you very well mention in 5:30, the battery "will be wired directly into the flight controller". My fault for not listening. And sure enough, I checked the board specifications and it definitely can take 1S 3.2V power. And the buck converter can only output a maximum of 1.3A. I haven't tried out the fix yet but I'm pretty confident it will work. Thank you so much!
@@soret Awesome! I'm glad you got it running.
Hi, I really enjoyed you Vid, I hit Subscribe and like!! Cheers!!!
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Great build guide... I have the carbon version of this frame, gonna build it up soon. I have to say, pretty rude by that guy... he could have at least asked you to move your stuff instead of just shoving it over. 🤷♂️
Thanks! Yeah, some people are clueless. He probably thought - "these young kids with their flying machines and MTV have no respect". Haha. Good luck with your build, this is a fun one :D
how is the core temp on the jehmcu aio? the zeus5 core temp got so hot with this build.
I haven't noticed any core temperature problems with the JEHMUC board. In fact, until now, I'm more than pleased with the overall performance of the FC.
Thank you for making this video! It is very helpful. I am new to drone making, and I am trying to get my part list together to build it. I have a flysky fs i6 remote, do you know what receiver and antennas would work for this? Also, I will be using the Zeus5 AIO. Do you know of a vtx that would work with this?
Thank you! For a flysky remote, you will need a flysky receiver (the antennas are usually included). As far as a VTX goes, as long as it is small and compact, it should be fine. The Eachine Nano VTX I used in the video worked well for me. Good luck with your build!
@@nuxnik Thanks so much!
a project that interests me, I also follow how to make it, I use fc crazybee f4 lite, vtx, esc aio, camera caddx eos, happymodel 1203 kv11000 motor, props gemfan 3018 2 blade, and I use 1s 18650 battery too, but I get a failure at arm time, the motor spins for a while after that the fc restarts, then I try to remove the props, the engine spins smoothly, is there something missing in the manufacture? I see in your component there is a capacitor, I don't use it, what is the effect of not using the capacitor?
It sounds like your FC/ESC is browning out because it is not getting enough current. You might want to try an 18650 with a better C rating.
The capacitor is not necessary, however it is there to smooth and filter the current flow from the battery. This filters the noise that is transmitted through your video signal. I would recommend adding one, it will make the video in your goggles look much better. Good luck and keep us updated! :)
Awesome build I have ordered everything :) and will be following this vid, also what Transmitter are you running? thanks
Thank you. My main transmitter is an FrSky Qx7. Good luck with your build and let us know when you are finished!
Nice work man,👍👍 do you have a link to that hand drill or what do you call it?
Thank you for your comment, and good question. I have been using the hand drill in the video for years. It's a very handy little tool to have: www.amazon.com/XT-AUTO-Micro-Spiral-Manual/dp/B07GB6T7VB/
buen video, me encanto
nice build... but..iam so confused if use XM+, my part its same : Jhemchu Play F4, GPS BN180, nano Eachine VTX. BTW can I use SoftSerial for VTX resource at CLI just like u config at BF?
Thank you for your comment. Essentially, yes you should be able to follow my tutorial and get it to work. However, here are some differences in your case since your are using XM+:
1. XM+ uses SBUS which means you need to solder it to the pad labeled "S". The good news is, you won't need softserial because you will have an extra TX pad open (T1). This can be wired directly to your Eachine Nano VTX.
2. In my video for configuration I selected the SmartAudio protocol in the ports section. This is wrong, you should select "Tramp"
3. When configuring your receiver select SBUS / Frsky_X in the configuration tab
I wish you success in your build! Check back with us when you're finished!
@@nuxnik thanks I'll try it after the motors comes...
This is awesome! Thanks for all the info on this! I was flipping through the parts that I need to get and it looks like the TBS CROSSFIRE NANO RX - FPV LONG RANGE DRONE RECEIVER is out of stock. Got a recommendation for something that can be used as an alternative? I am guessing really any nano rx but there might be something I'm missing
You can probably find the same receiver on aliexpress or banggood. There are many different types of receivers out there. I chose the TBS nano RX because I wanted to test the long range aspect of the drone. Express LRS is also a great alternative to TBS crossfire. Good luck with your build!
I would suggest Express LRS. Its the best of all worlds. Lowest price for receivers, longest range, and lowest latency. Still pretty new compared to the other options but it seems to be the future of TX/RX
Hi, where did you mount your gps? How does it takes to get gps signal?
Hello, I used a rubber band to mount it over the 18650. I have also designed a holder for it. If you have a 3d printer, you can download the files here and print it: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871771
The time for a GPS signal sync depends. Somewhere between 2-5 minutes.
I wonder what the flight time would be without the microphone and camera, maybe make these into a drone show style drone with low-power LED instead given it has GPS, do you think that's doable?
Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean a boost in flight performance without the weight of the camera and VTX? You could install iNav on it and send it out to fly missions autonomously without a camera I suppose.
What kind of distance do you get out of this thing?
Thanks for the comment. The farthest I have gotten is approximately 2 kilometers.
Hi, help me please. How much does the frame weigh without electronics?
Hi Roman, thanks for the comment. Sorry for the long wait, I didn't see your comment for some reason. I weighed my frame and it weighs exactly 15g. This weight can vary from build to build depending on the material and infill. I used PLA and 20% infill with the print. I hope that helps :)
Don’t feel bad about the board frying - I’ve done it a few times (recently) LOL 😂😂😂😂😂
It not the first and won't be the last, unfortunately. Build, crash, repair, repeat :D
Hi, nice tutorial! Just one question, why you don’t power the vtx directly from the 5v of the fc?
Thanks and good question! The reason is that the FC doesn't always output 5v. That is what the boost converter is for. Also when the voltage drops the voltage booster keeps the vtx signal alive.
Thanks for the explanation. Regarding the burnt of the fc, did you put a diode to prevent it happens again? Because I would like to have some protection here but I fear that the drop of the voltage of the diode can be to high for the fc…
@@giuliomelacarne5439 a diode is not the correct component because of the voltage drop. You should use a mosfet instead. See this article: www.rs20.net/w/2013/02/using-mosfets-as-blocking-diodes-reverse-polarity-protection/
I'm glad you asked - I will make a video about all the nanolongrange updates I have made over the last 10 months. I have made quite a few of them :)
Nice, this is something that I didn't know... Can you also suggest a chip that do this job?
At home I have this P-Mosfet, IRF9540N. Reading the datasheet I think it should work… I’m right? :)
Great build, I use that FC all the time on my whoops/toothpicks. had to say thank you I never thought to put heat shrink on my helping hands. I had it installed before i finished the video
Thanks for your comment :) This small board is starting to become a favorite of mine. I have already used it in two other projects (the build videos are in progress).
@@nuxnik Its a great board, used to be cheaper on bgood. the new price has me looking at the betafpv 1s 12a board now. as this one seems to break when trying to turtle my toothpick.
Hay can I use 1102 motors
Thanks for the comment and good question. Yes you can, and it should work. The only drawback is that you might not get the same longer flight times as the 1202.5 motors. Let us know how it turns out!
is the camera digital? Idk how to tell
Good question. The signal is good old analog. Usually you can tell a digital signal by the higher image quality. A digital VTX would probably be possible with the new digital VTXs on the market. However it might eat up too much current from the single battery and cause a brown out. It's worth a test though :)
What does the buck boost decive do again?
Thanks for the question and comment. The booster in this case, takes the nominal voltage of the battery (4.2V) and boosts it to 5V so that the VTX has enough power to run. In other words, the VTX requires at least 5V to function properly.
@@nuxnik interesting, now is this a normal procedure on most builds or just on your particular build in this video? Sorry for the question just never heard of the device before. Still a newbie
@@cold-frontin_penguin7902 no problem :) Using a booster circuit is necessary for this particular build because of the single cell 18650 battery. This build is unique and not a typical FPV drone.
Also, the LC filter in conjunction with the booster is there to smooth spikes in the current from the battery. Without the LC filter, the video signal would be choppy and would degrade the video quality.
@@nuxnik awesome, you're just a bundle of knowledge looking forward to your next videos. Thank you!
Whats the run time
excellent video. I am interested in creating my first drone, any suggestions?
God bless.
Thank you for your comment! As a first drone, it is probably a good idea to build one from a kit. The Eachine tyro79 is a nice kit. You get all the necessary components except for the receiver and the batteries.
However, before buying the kit, it is best to look into all the other stuff that is involved in getting into the hobby. A nice place to ask questions is intofpv.com Good luck!
@@nuxnik I've got a garage full of car tools (including for electrical) so i should be good on that end. Thank you for the suggesting and I look forward to the next video!
@@Ramirez4565 sounds like you're good to go! There's nothing more satisfying than flying a drone you built yourself. Good luck! :D
So what was the full budget ?
Thanks for the comment. I built this drone almost 2 years ago. At that time, the total cost was 143,82€. You can find a parts list in my blog article about this build. Since then, the market has changed including the prices for the components, so I'm really not sure what it would cost today.
17:23 It takes courage to admit making a mistake.
Thanks for the comment. It was just part of the learning process :)
Great build..sub u bro!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it :)
How far can it go?
That depends on a few factors. Weather, line of sight (terrain), antennas and the amount of transmission power for both the VTX and the TX system. I have flown mine 2 km in one direction - 4km round trip. I could have flown farther but didn't want to risk losing it.
I don't understand it has GPS why didn't you set for return to home in fail safe
Thanks for the comment. Good question. I did set it, however I forgot to add that configuration part to the build video :D
Typical old man territorial move.
Haha, a silver back's gotta show dominance.