The ascent of the Qualido big wall (Joy Division) by James Pearson
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- Опубликовано: 13 ноя 2011
- Thursday 13 October, at 10,37 am The North Face® Athlete James Pearson successfully achieve the ascent of the Qualido big wall line called Joy Division, one of the hardest granite multpitch in the alps.
The route itself is hard, demanding and very fall-offable, especially in his 1st, 4th and 7th pitches After 15 days work spread over three months and, James was finally ready to climb the line in one push, leading all the route with no fall for more than 800m, 22 pitches, a bivy and two days of granite climbing.
Read the story on www.thenorthfacejournal.com/th... 
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This is an amazing video, you really need concentration and trust on a ascent like that,you are very lucky to be a climber god bless your way tkyou for sharing...
bellissimo video complimenti a tutti!
Hey Anna, the song is 'Falling' by Luca Tommasoni
Thanks to James, Nico and Richard for the wonderful experience
Pietro
To all the haters, the route has been aid climbed back in the ages and then bolted and climbed by Igor Koller for the first 3 pitches. Than Pedeferri was freeing all the route without touching or bettering anything. So, you can do 2 things: go, climb it and remove the bolts, or directly ask mr. Koller to do it. A guy called Beat Kammerlander was unsuccessfully trying to repeat the route, by the way... So, you can talk to this people and explain them the ethics, the style or maybe shut up.
bolts are only necessary on very small parts of the climb..... ive done alot of research on this
@giovanntorres7 GoPro Camera!
whats the song for this at the end?
what camera are they using during the climb?
Name of the songs?? please
I love to bike down there climb it without a rope ... seems fairly even ...
what the hell...22 pitch sport climb? how the hell did they put all those bolts in
Beautiful video, but the bolts! The bolts every two moves! I suppose if it starts raining you can step on the bolts and get up pretty quick!
Bolts next to cracks are B/S
@safamels ........ bolted .......Not bolted ! They had fun and its what they wanted to do ! Good on em if they didnt want to cart RP's and a shitload of cams on every pitch ! Trad is purer than sport but then free solo is purer than trad....Bolting a trad line?....Its up to the first ascentionists really hay !!
all crap! this is one of the hardest routes in the Alps, 22 pitches,that kind of granite eat your fingers, the bolts are far, and if it has never been repeated in seven years, unless some attempt, there is a reason!
It doesn't matter how much you train or how many climbing videos you watch. What gives the base for opinion? A video? You don't see how well it protects, how bad would be the runouts or whether it's even worth bringing a rack on a face multipitch just for a couple of short crack sections. The only way you can experience the route is to climb it. And once you do and gave it all you can, i don't know how you can still bother about bolts. It's just seems silly and obsessive.
so your not allowed to talk about ethics unless you climb 5.14 trad? that makes a lot of sense! youre right, i have no ethics until i reach that level. hahaha. i guess ill have to train harder so i can have an opinion on these things... hahahahaha. thanks for your insight!
less stupid transactions and talking and more climbing would be nice!!!!!!!!!
@degonzoman seriously! wtf? bolts next to the crack? weak ascent... this is the same guy that proposed E12 for a slab he did in the UK, after only repeating two E10s and no E11s. what a joke!! his route was quickly downgraded to E9 by MacLeod (the real hardman in the UK). he sounds incredibly full of himself and obviously has no clue about ethics, considering how much he sprays grades and bolts up cracks.