I remember seeing these at a home improvement show at Darling Harbour back in the early 00's and thought they were a brilliant idea. Sadly I couldn't find anywhere up here that knew of them and the internet was not really to the level it is today.
My old fibro house in Sydney has no roof insulation or sarking. Sure a bit of dust has got in over the last 70 years, but it sure doesn’t keep any possible excess heat in and the house can quickly take advantage of any cool breezes on a summers afternoon. In a mild climate location like Sydney you can get away it on a fibro, ceramic tiled house.
You are safe from the National Construction Code's ventilation requirements. The Code actually states that UN-SARKED tile roofs are exempt. This is because exactly as you say - the gaps between the tiles provide adequate ventilation...
Bunnings used to sell (maybe they still do) a solar powered fan extractor which replaced a tile. I imagine a flat metal roof could use a waterproof low duct as a mount to raise the solar extractor above the roof. A flat roof could hold an appropriate number of the units to extract the hot air assuming there is enough solar load )not too many overshadowing problems)... otherwise a 12v motor could potentially be used, I guess.
I was thinking the same thing, but cut an upside down "T" shape and fold the flaps open so that any leaks from higher up the roof won't run in to the hole
@retrofitter yes, stopping possible leaks and better air flow. You should suggest it to the company that make it. Or Maybe do another RUclips episode on it.
It is a trade-off. No sarking means cheaper and ventilated roof cavity. If the roof is steep, there is no code requirement for sarking. Sarking can reduce the heat transfer from the underside of the roof tiles and if a tile breaks, the sarking will stop a bad leak.
avoid low pitched roof and box gutter. Most tradesmen can’t make them water tight. Recipe for endless water infiltration problems Water diversion is more effective than water sealing.
Roof tiles (ceramic or concrete) have a lot of thermal mass and absorb a lot of heat from the sun. I think IR reflective sarking + batts on the roof behind the tiles is mainly what's needed to isolate the heat away from the rest of the roof space. Ventilating the roof is still useful to get cool air through though. Most batts installers though will throw the batts on the timber holding up the gyprock ceiling which really traps the heat in there like a blanket.
I remember seeing these at a home improvement show at Darling Harbour back in the early 00's and thought they were a brilliant idea. Sadly I couldn't find anywhere up here that knew of them and the internet was not really to the level it is today.
I have them on my roof. Work well, no noise, no moving parts.
My old fibro house in Sydney has no roof insulation or sarking. Sure a bit of dust has got in over the last 70 years, but it sure doesn’t keep any possible excess heat in and the house can quickly take advantage of any cool breezes on a summers afternoon. In a mild climate location like Sydney you can get away it on a fibro, ceramic tiled house.
You are safe from the National Construction Code's ventilation requirements.
The Code actually states that UN-SARKED tile roofs are exempt. This is because exactly as you say - the gaps between the tiles provide adequate ventilation...
Bunnings used to sell (maybe they still do) a solar powered fan extractor which replaced a tile. I imagine a flat metal roof could use a waterproof low duct as a mount to raise the solar extractor above the roof. A flat roof could hold an appropriate number of the units to extract the hot air assuming there is enough solar load )not too many overshadowing problems)... otherwise a 12v motor could potentially be used, I guess.
Jack your a smart cookie, sure you can invent this and patent it 👍
I am not as smart as you think...
Would you recommend attaching the Sarking on top & sides of the Tin vent with tape. To keep a water proof membrane, but still have a air parth?
I was thinking the same thing, but cut an upside down "T" shape and fold the flaps open so that any leaks from higher up the roof won't run in to the hole
@retrofitter yes, stopping possible leaks and better air flow. You should suggest it to the company that make it. Or Maybe do another RUclips episode on it.
Great idea, but the airflow will be a fraction of a 300mm Diameter whirlybird. What is the approximate cost per unit.
About $110 Aussie dollars per ventilator
@@roofingportal Hey that's cheap! Thanks for answering my question.
P.S. My two Whirlybirds have both seized!
Is it worth adding sarking to a tile roof?
It is a trade-off.
No sarking means cheaper and ventilated roof cavity. If the roof is steep, there is no code requirement for sarking.
Sarking can reduce the heat transfer from the underside of the roof tiles and if a tile breaks, the sarking will stop a bad leak.
Pretty cool
No pun intended 😊
avoid low pitched roof and box gutter. Most tradesmen can’t make them water tight. Recipe for endless water infiltration problems
Water diversion is more effective than water sealing.
Roof tiles (ceramic or concrete) have a lot of thermal mass and absorb a lot of heat from the sun. I think IR reflective sarking + batts on the roof behind the tiles is mainly what's needed to isolate the heat away from the rest of the roof space. Ventilating the roof is still useful to get cool air through though.
Most batts installers though will throw the batts on the timber holding up the gyprock ceiling which really traps the heat in there like a blanket.
Really? Can’t you afford the case for the refill blade? I was waiting for a sliced finger using that blade without the case.😂
Sorry.
I am a lazy roofer and did not get my Stanley knife...