I have enabled the super thanks option for those that would like to donate to the channel. You can find it at the top of the comments. Click on it and you'll be able to help with the builds. Thanks everyone!!!!
Your Air Box is FINE. Your Pressurizing the air. 2 bars vs 18 bars is where you see large differences. At sea level. You Won't see a big change from one cyl to another.. You will see MPG way down. You'll be lucky to get 30 miles on a tank with Boost. A v8 2atroke truck trucks from the 60s. Did What your doing. It won't matter that much in the grand skeem of things. Containing the Boost is going to be your biggest struggle. Keeping the Clamps tight. Nothing loose. Your doing awesome as always. Glad someone is keeping the old sleds alive and people interested.
Todd, your Airbox is indeed going to function perfectly. It's important to note that the pressure of 8 lbs of boost is evenly distributed throughout the entire airbox. Consider it this way: with your intake and compression strokes of your pistons, it's unlikely that it could simply provide more boost to the middle cylinder. The pressure would be evenly distributed. If you encounter any issues on your first run and its falling flat on its face, I would consider removing the baffle, It's certainly not advisable to restrict that airflow. That all depends on the backpressure your pipe makes. It may be just fine. Im just saying if you have any trouble I would advise to look there.
I subscribed, I can't tell you how much I enjoyed listening to someone that fully understands all the engineering involved with this 2 stroke turbo project. I am looking forward to watching it hit the snow.
I pull tractor and have done extensive research on boost in manifolds and have learned that if you have 8 pounds of boost at the inlet of manifold it is equal through out the whole manifold.
Boost is under pressure. If the air box is charged to 8 psi each carb will see the same. The only issue you will see is under vaccuum or no boost. This is when the outer carbs may struggle to suck air. The center carb may run lien. I will tell you now and may be a topic for next video. The booster jet you have is similar to the Dial-a-jet. I just recently installed a kit on my ultra. Ive come to the conclusion that too much fuel gets into engine and will wash the bearings ulness you run premix or bump the oil flow to compensate for that added fuel. I have a tight motor now and will need to rebuild my 680 for a stupid move i made.
Good work guys! My vote is for decals. Also on the airflow issue in the box, I work on a lot of big equipment that we have flow distribution issues, and your Perf plate is a good idea. However, you may need to make the holes over the center carb smaller and the ones on the outside, larger to force more air to the outside versus the center. It might also be possible to put some turning veins on the pipe coming in to force some of that air one way or the other. Hi Have a good one, cheers!
Todd. Boost is pressure. In other words in order to measure boost it has to fill up the charge tube's and in your case the box in order to read pressure" boost" . Therefore your whole box will have the same pressure so your box will work just like you want it to. Sleep well because you did a fine job.
Flow test the air box. Pull it out plum in a air supply to the top of the air box and set it on the floor and run smoke thru it see if your volumes look the same. Could even set up flow meters on each carb inlet and try different baffles to even all carb inlets out.
Great looking build, excited to see you light the pumpkin. I’m voting decals and pin stripes. Love the 90’s style. Keep up the excellent work. Merry Christmas.
I'm sure it will be fine Todd! It is very difficult to tell the difference between "Will this work OK?" and "What could be better?" after a couple cold ones.
For the box; you could change it to a simple rectangle shape like it is. Then weld tubes to each carburetor. Giving you room under the air box for storage. Keeping plenty of clearance for the steering arm.
Back in the 90's I did a few triples with the Aerocharger system. Worked very well. With no mufler, it's pretty brutal after 100 miles or so. But once you feel the pull it's worth it
The issue is not the boost. The problem is you can't get enough air into the box when off boost. So no matter how you jet your going to be fat until boost comes up. Power jet helps, but it's mid range needle jet that becomes a compromise. Unless you raise the idle until you can get some air into that motor. They love air. Drags are no problem. Set the clutching to engage at 4k and hang on. Use LL 100 gas premix 9# boost, and lift at 1000'
Todd, your explanation of the turbo/fuel system makes 110% sense to me. Great job there! Ill be 1 of the few to agree with trenton on no decals. This is because this machine is a true sleeper! Keep people wondering what's in there lol. As far as the air box your fine. I may have "whoevers" concerns about the center carb if it was a reed valve engine. Due to the piston port design I believe the air will take easier path which is controlled by the piston port timing. IfnI were doing what your doing id want a certain ammount of oil in the fuel to help seal allnthe extra potential leaking areas. Im talking conventional not synthetic either. Good luck I love this channel!!!!
1 more thing I forgot! The transition from the round exhaust pipe exit to the square turbo flange is hopefully a smooth transition somehow? Thanks again for all the content and shared knowledge!!!!!
What you will find is the mag side carb is going to run slightly different jetting as long as that box is sealed all 3 carbs will be fed . Boost will be slightly higher on the center hole and pto hole. Remember boost is a measurement of restriction. What makes the power gains is the volume of air at any given psi vers rpm. This is why I say you will find the mag side will be needing different jet sets . If you really want to avoid the jet nightmare you will face build the air box behind the steering shaft and extend the outlets to the carbs. Building a larger box will lower the psi but gain air volume naturally and same goes for building a smaller box will up the psi but lower available volume of air. At 8 to 10 psi you theoretical size of your box should be triple the cc of your engine to match the 1 to 1 ratio of volume to boost needed to make things happy an safe. As far as the fuel no at 8 to 10 psi you can infact get by with 93 but will need to retard the timing a few degrees.
I'd do decals. From what I remember from a high performance automotive engines class is you want a smooth, unobstructed passageway for the air to flow before it enters carburetor.
My opinion on the airbox is that you're right about the pressure in the system being equal. The only drawback may be less flow to the mag side carburetor. I would make sure you use that side to monitor pressure and keep an eye on your plugs and exhaust temperature on each cylinder to ensure you have a safe air to fuel ratio. You can probably handle any discrepancy with jetting. Not likely to have a major issue with the power level you're likely to achieve. Good luck, awesome build!
You 'could' drill the holes larger on the two end carbs, so the air flows more at those ends and is more restricted in the center to distribute the flow better. This is how the engineers that make tissue dryers form tissue mills distribute the air across a 200" baffle. Air would enter from one end and exit through the dryer roll. To achieve even air flow, the holes in the baffle are smaller near the air entrance were smaller and they progressively got larger, or even no baffle plate at the far end to keep the air even in the chamber before exiting across the entire 200" dryer surface. Just a thought to consider and might be an easy modification to make. You could monitor air pressure with MAP sensors above each carb to make sure the pressure is even across the board and adjust the baffle holes as necessary
Couldn’t you weld some fittings in the top of the box to check pressure? That seems it would be simple and you could make sure the psi is the same in both ends of the air box. Or just watch the plugs or egt
So I have a grand national and the rear two cylinders are leaner than the front 4 so a guy developed a plate that sits between the plenum and the intake to help distribute the turbo air coming in more even. The company is RJC racing in the turbo Buick world. So I could see your center carb running more boost than the outer two. He used to use a leaf blower on an intake and show how more air is on the rear cylinder than the fronts. You can do the same and see which holes flow the most and least.
Great vid...I must have missed this one somehow. I like how Cat managed the pressured air into the throttle body on a ZR9000. I think your air box will work the way it is. Be cool to see what Solidworks says about the air flow. When do you think startup will be? Definitely decals. Pinstripes wpuld be the way to go. Great job on the RXLs. Tey were too nice for me., lol.
We boost 8cyl cars with front facing throttle body and the closest runners get a little less priority and the furthest runners get the most priority but it all pretty good with a maybe 1 point spread in afr. You have adjustable power fuel jet so just as long as your not hung up on all 3 being set equal then your fine. Start equal obviously and adjust accordingly. The plugs will tell you all. But I hope you have egts because that’s wats gonna save the motor. They will talk to you in real time. One starts running up then shut it down. Confirm the plugs not rich then add fuel. Stay safe get to the point where your pulling fuel out to dial in. Cpl cases of spark plugs br9es or wat ever you run. Don’t read your first set toss them pretty quick and you’ll be good. Looks like this isn’t your first rodeo
Todd, you have to install the original graphics package… The graphic decals are what make the 92 650 “The Pumpkin” otherwise it’s just a black INDY… Secondly, I am with you on the intake manifold being charged with intake boost at a consistent pressure for each cylinder.
From my years of farming experience, it should push boost through all 3 boots, similar to how the seed towers work on an air drill. BUT, I’ve been wrong before. Really curious as to how this set up is going to turn out.
I think the Mag side carb might get a little less air. I think a cheap way to check would be to install balloons on the carb inlet pipes and put air into the boost inlet. If one carb isn't getting as much, the balloon would be smaller. Then you can restrict the larger balloons until they are equal.
Jst cut and add two more tubes out the top on both sides of air box and connect them to one at the top. If u dnt think it’ll work so it’ll be even pressure on all sides but idk that’s jst my idea
I think your air boxset up is fine. You’ll know real quick with a quick pull down the straightaway then do a plug read. If plugs say things are good then your good if plugs say things are bad well then back to drawing board but don’t sweat it. Cross that bridge when and if it comes.
I have a set of late edge (04-06) gauges that I swapped the guts in the tach with the guts from my 1997 RXL tach which I think was the only year wedge with large gauges. The original gauges were all black and I always liked the white and black edge gauges. So I have what you are looking for as far as gauges on my RXL. Its doable but good luck finding a 1997 RXL large tach.
SLP engine torque arm , and extra push arm , locks that motor in place , minimal twist clutch deflection , and a Venom Team tied Secondary clutch , best things I put on my machine ,
No Decal please.....just wondering if you could install a boost gage on that beautiful air box so you will an idea of the pressure...awesome looking sled love the videos and comments you speak about....Muskoka Dave Cheers to You
Boost pressure is a creation of restriction in the engine. The intake box you have made is going to work as a tank/reservoir and the cylinders will take from it as they need it. You'll be find todd.
@toddclyne3493 i wish I woulda took the time to make a box like yours. But my sled project isn't a permanent thing just a test bed as I want to eventually do this to a thundercat...
There is no issues with that air box. Should run great off boost and under boost the intake will be pressurized, so no issues with air pressure to the MAG carb
Hey all ... I think they would be both be awesome black ,or with the full graphics. Why not intermittent... fade the original into a black ... either from front to back , or fading in from the bottom hot ,and fading into black. Very slightly... like a ghost image. Why can't you use a simulor intercooler design ,for the intake .? All my 2 cents . Love you all... Merry Christmas!!!
Free tip: air flows almost the same boosted or not. 1Bar absolute pressure or 1.3bar nothing changes. Air does not get pushed in the cylinder by the turbo it just gets pressurized, then a pressure drop occurs when the piston passes the intake port and the air is “sucked” in same as a NA engine. The answer you are looking for is: if this air box would work NA it will work in a boosted application
Yeah hes good the pressure will equalize without issue as long as the area past the notch is will flow more past it than the stator carb can actually consume he will have no problems.
yes new video. just buttoned up the case on my 800 storm this afternoon. Cheers guys, if he leaves the decals off it looks like a mean mountain mod sled. also 3 fingers has a storm motor in it!?!?!?!?!?!?
Your air box will be fine. The boost pressure will more than compensate for any flow rate issues that a small restriction in your air box could cause. If you read 8 psi of boost, the whole system will be at 8 psi. The outlet of the compressor wheel to each and every corner of the air box will be at 8 psi. I have tested this type of theory on diesel trucks- the pressure on one side of the intercooler is the same as the other.
@@toddclyne3493 When I was younger I got a new 98 xlt and my brother had a new 98 xcr 600. They were a blast! We rode up in Hayward, WI and it was a lot of wide open throttle on lakes. These are some of my favorite sounding engines. After a few years both engines failed. Not surprising after what we put them through. The xlt crankshaft bent and one of the pistons started hitting the spark plug and almost put a hole though it (I still have that piston lol). The xcr motor crankshaft sheared off flush where it comes out of the block. The primary clutch almost made it out of the hood when the crankshaft broke off, kind of scary. We ended up getting the newer XC machines which were good too but I sure do miss those old powerhouse triples! If you get one you want to sell please let me know. Merry Christmas!
Gotta have decals ! Sorry Trenton but I’m old school ! I can see just the way it is but come on man …. Gotta have some decals ! Take care and Merry Christmas 🍺🍺
Throw 3 boost gauges in the airbox in different locations.. For testing purposes. I'd guess it will be okay, though. Also... I've been watching some stuff on car guys doing blow-through carbureted turbo setups. They say the rule of thumb is base fuel pressure + boost pressure. So if the stock pump supplies 5, and you're running 8lbs boost, you need to be at 13lbs fuel pressure. Idk if that rule applies directly to your setup here, but it will be interesting to see you guys figure it out!
@ Looking forward to it! I don’t have the space, resources, or skills you guys do.. So I like to live vicariously through your RUclips videos. You guys and Nutter give me the sled wrenching fix
Jason price at price performance here in Michigan would more than likely be able to answer your question about the boost air box. Look him up and reach out
My 2cents on airbox for what it’s worth is solid baffle to deflect airflow off the center carb & somehow calculate the surface area each can take as the whole point of a box is to distribute air evenly…how to exactly is beyond my abilities tho hahah. You get it tho!
@@toddclyne3493 somehow you’ll have to get each car the same airflow obvi. in long run…will be tricky keeping it under hood, but best bet might be heading back to Nutter’s & somehow making an another fits under the hood as a collective airbox, but has splitter pipes to each port like those gasser dragsters so all the air comes into a box of sorts but then is distributed to the ports…might look wild tho lol. Someone commented to add the same steering clearance to the others side thus making all ports more equal which could also accomplish the same goal(?). I was concerned seeing the chassis at Princeton😂
Every sled ive owned I take some, if not all decals off. Looks great without. Have at least one without. Just me. I like different. Obviously you guys can relate.
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻 Tough call on the decals 🤔 Is it possible to make a custom decal like the one on the 91 RXL you just sold, just change the color to orange. Something cool and not stock, since the sled is a custom build 🤷🏻♂️ I agree with most people who commented, that your box will be fine. If the volume provided is more than what the piston ports can consume you’re likely good to go 👍. To be safe though I’d be watching the jetting on all 3 quite closely. Sled looks amazing!!! Merry Christmas Clyne family 🍻🍻🍻
Well she’s looking sweet guyz. I’m a decal guy so I say more the better, will help the orange flow across the sled. As far as boost, I no as much about that as I do making a cake, no real Help for ya. Airbox will work fine 👊
Make an identical post tunnel between the other two carbs Make the inlet point towards the turbo. It'll have less pipe and better response Cut a hole in the back and find a 2025 take off air box valve from a boost. Thousands of folks replaced them with a trs valve
One of your subscribers probably has a valve laying around or you could just find a valve from any big twin id think. Then cover that with an outerwear or frogskin
Just a couple things: Could you not run a pipe parallel on top of the airbox and have 3 ports it feeds? Would not be much more fab work. Lastly: The main manual fuel pump. What do you think of running one way valves on either side so when the electric pump and regulator are running under boost...there is no way of pressurized fuel getting to the manual pump and ruining a baffle? Just curious as I was not sure how much pressure those manual pumps can take.
I think I would finish Jason, and then decide if you want the the graphics or not. It may look naked once you guys get the bumper on with the nose cone and everything is sitting on there the way it should. As for the steering......PSC full hydro set up. Like a rock buggy. LoL
I have enabled the super thanks option for those that would like to donate to the channel. You can find it at the top of the comments. Click on it and you'll be able to help with the builds. Thanks everyone!!!!
that baffle in the airbox is limiting flow. looks like by half.
@truemanrep3267 🤔
@@toddclyne3493 Pressure will increase equally in all directions
Todd I'm with Trenton on this one no decals !! Looks awesome 💯
@@larrywarner9314 😁
Your Air Box is FINE. Your Pressurizing the air. 2 bars vs 18 bars is where you see large differences. At sea level. You Won't see a big change from one cyl to another.. You will see MPG way down. You'll be lucky to get 30 miles on a tank with Boost. A v8 2atroke truck trucks from the 60s. Did What your doing. It won't matter that much in the grand skeem of things. Containing the Boost is going to be your biggest struggle. Keeping the Clamps tight. Nothing loose. Your doing awesome as always. Glad someone is keeping the old sleds alive and people interested.
Thanks so much for the informative comment
Todd, that thing is aching for some old school orange pinstripes. And the 650 logo. No decals!
@@weshole find me a pinstriper 😁
Todd, your Airbox is indeed going to function perfectly. It's important to note that the pressure of 8 lbs of boost is evenly distributed throughout the entire airbox. Consider it this way: with your intake and compression strokes of your pistons, it's unlikely that it could simply provide more boost to the middle cylinder. The pressure would be evenly distributed. If you encounter any issues on your first run and its falling flat on its face, I would consider removing the baffle, It's certainly not advisable to restrict that airflow. That all depends on the backpressure your pipe makes. It may be just fine. Im just saying if you have any trouble I would advise to look there.
Great point, thanks for the advice.
I subscribed, I can't tell you how much I enjoyed listening to someone that fully understands all the engineering involved with this 2 stroke turbo project. I am looking forward to watching it hit the snow.
I really appreciate it, and I'm looking forward to riding it too.
Decals for sure. It would make it look and feel complete
Right on
I pull tractor and have done extensive research on boost in manifolds and have learned that if you have 8 pounds of boost at the inlet of manifold it is equal through out the whole manifold.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! It's helpful to hear different perspectives.
If it were a race sled, I'd say no decals. But for show, definitely decals, and add some pin striping too. Awesome build, i love it!
@@chadbarton3235 right on
Boost is under pressure. If the air box is charged to 8 psi each carb will see the same. The only issue you will see is under vaccuum or no boost. This is when the outer carbs may struggle to suck air. The center carb may run lien. I will tell you now and may be a topic for next video. The booster jet you have is similar to the Dial-a-jet. I just recently installed a kit on my ultra. Ive come to the conclusion that too much fuel gets into engine and will wash the bearings ulness you run premix or bump the oil flow to compensate for that added fuel. I have a tight motor now and will need to rebuild my 680 for a stupid move i made.
Thanks for the input, great explanation!
Good work guys! My vote is for decals. Also on the airflow issue in the box, I work on a lot of big equipment that we have flow distribution issues, and your Perf plate is a good idea. However, you may need to make the holes over the center carb smaller and the ones on the outside, larger to force more air to the outside versus the center. It might also be possible to put some turning veins on the pipe coming in to force some of that air one way or the other. Hi Have a good one, cheers!
Thanks for the tips!
Todd. Boost is pressure. In other words in order to measure boost it has to fill up the charge tube's and in your case the box in order to read pressure" boost" . Therefore your whole box will have the same pressure so your box will work just like you want it to. Sleep well because you did a fine job.
You got it, thanks for the explanation.
Flow test the air box. Pull it out plum in a air supply to the top of the air box and set it on the floor and run smoke thru it see if your volumes look the same. Could even set up flow meters on each carb inlet and try different baffles to even all carb inlets out.
Great ideas
I love that sled!!! Definitely go with decals!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Decals for sure, looking good!!
@@matthewbegin3462 thanks
Thanks!
Thank you so much!!!
Great looking build, excited to see you light the pumpkin. I’m voting decals and pin stripes. Love the 90’s style. Keep up the excellent work. Merry Christmas.
right on thanks
I'm sure it will be fine Todd! It is very difficult to tell the difference between "Will this work OK?" and "What could be better?" after a couple cold ones.
😂 🍻
For the box; you could change it to a simple rectangle shape like it is. Then weld tubes to each carburetor. Giving you room under the air box for storage. Keeping plenty of clearance for the steering arm.
@@mattfahrman4485 🤔
Have a great Christmas Todd & Family! Cheers from Adirondacks of NY!
Thanks man
Hey Todd! Maybe do a decal mock up and take pictures and do a side by side comparison so we can vote on it. Sled looks amazing!
Great idea
I think the turbo sled looks great the way it is. Looks very clean with no decals. I’m a fan of the way it is
Right on
@@toddclyne3493 just seen your new post and I must say, I regret my decision. I like the decals lol. Merry Christmas to you and your family
Yeah I'd say do the decals on it to set it off or make it look good
👍
Man those sleds look amazing great job Todd,from Ontario Canada Todd.
@@Kq750. Hey thanks Todd
Back in the 90's I did a few triples with the Aerocharger system. Worked very well. With no mufler, it's pretty brutal after 100 miles or so. But once you feel the pull it's worth it
@@edwardstefaniak3780 I sure would love to pick your brain. My email is in the video description.. would love to hear from you
The issue is not the boost. The problem is you can't get enough air into the box when off boost. So no matter how you jet your going to be fat until boost comes up. Power jet helps, but it's mid range needle jet that becomes a compromise. Unless you raise the idle until you can get some air into that motor. They love air.
Drags are no problem. Set the clutching to engage at 4k and hang on. Use LL 100 gas premix 9# boost, and lift at 1000'
Todd, your explanation of the turbo/fuel system makes 110% sense to me. Great job there! Ill be 1 of the few to agree with trenton on no decals. This is because this machine is a true sleeper! Keep people wondering what's in there lol. As far as the air box your fine. I may have "whoevers" concerns about the center carb if it was a reed valve engine. Due to the piston port design I believe the air will take easier path which is controlled by the piston port timing. IfnI were doing what your doing id want a certain ammount of oil in the fuel to help seal allnthe extra potential leaking areas. Im talking conventional not synthetic either. Good luck I love this channel!!!!
1 more thing I forgot! The transition from the round exhaust pipe exit to the square turbo flange is hopefully a smooth transition somehow? Thanks again for all the content and shared knowledge!!!!!
@@gregmcnamara9229 thanks for watching us
@@gregmcnamara9229 I agree. I'm working on that
What you will find is the mag side carb is going to run slightly different jetting as long as that box is sealed all 3 carbs will be fed . Boost will be slightly higher on the center hole and pto hole. Remember boost is a measurement of restriction. What makes the power gains is the volume of air at any given psi vers rpm. This is why I say you will find the mag side will be needing different jet sets . If you really want to avoid the jet nightmare you will face build the air box behind the steering shaft and extend the outlets to the carbs. Building a larger box will lower the psi but gain air volume naturally and same goes for building a smaller box will up the psi but lower available volume of air. At 8 to 10 psi you theoretical size of your box should be triple the cc of your engine to match the 1 to 1 ratio of volume to boost needed to make things happy an safe. As far as the fuel no at 8 to 10 psi you can infact get by with 93 but will need to retard the timing a few degrees.
I love when people like you comment with the knowledge you have.
Nice! Thats gonna be a beast 😎😎
Just got my 98 xc700 going, rebuilt the engine totally, fun times ahead!
@@Snotric awesome
Decals all the way!
😁
with the boost i think it will be the same in each hole because the piston closes the intake off on the down stroke.
I agree
I'd do decals. From what I remember from a high performance automotive engines class is you want a smooth, unobstructed passageway for the air to flow before it enters carburetor.
Thanks for the input, that's a great point.
My opinion on the airbox is that you're right about the pressure in the system being equal. The only drawback may be less flow to the mag side carburetor. I would make sure you use that side to monitor pressure and keep an eye on your plugs and exhaust temperature on each cylinder to ensure you have a safe air to fuel ratio. You can probably handle any discrepancy with jetting. Not likely to have a major issue with the power level you're likely to achieve. Good luck, awesome build!
Side note, the hood looks amazing but I think it deserves decals for the view across the parking lot!
@@MrVonWilly 😁
You 'could' drill the holes larger on the two end carbs, so the air flows more at those ends and is more restricted in the center to distribute the flow better. This is how the engineers that make tissue dryers form tissue mills distribute the air across a 200" baffle. Air would enter from one end and exit through the dryer roll. To achieve even air flow, the holes in the baffle are smaller near the air entrance were smaller and they progressively got larger, or even no baffle plate at the far end to keep the air even in the chamber before exiting across the entire 200" dryer surface. Just a thought to consider and might be an easy modification to make. You could monitor air pressure with MAP sensors above each carb to make sure the pressure is even across the board and adjust the baffle holes as necessary
@@jczaher very interesting and a great explanation
Definitely with decals!
😁
Id definitely put the punpkin decals on the pumpkin!
@@Weemans 👍
Decals, put an axillary boost bottle for sever demand
🤔
Couldn’t you weld some fittings in the top of the box to check pressure? That seems it would be simple and you could make sure the psi is the same in both ends of the air box. Or just watch the plugs or egt
Good idea
Decals or not, im going to love it either way 👍
😁
So I have a grand national and the rear two cylinders are leaner than the front 4 so a guy developed a plate that sits between the plenum and the intake to help distribute the turbo air coming in more even. The company is RJC racing in the turbo Buick world. So I could see your center carb running more boost than the outer two. He used to use a leaf blower on an intake and show how more air is on the rear cylinder than the fronts. You can do the same and see which holes flow the most and least.
Good idea on using the leaf blower. I'm not sure if it will be that much of a difference but I will definitely try it!
Looks great! I vote for decals.
@@brianwilber4347 👍
Decals for sure. Love the orange
Thanks
Great vid...I must have missed this one somehow. I like how Cat managed the pressured air into the throttle body on a ZR9000. I think your air box will work the way it is. Be cool to see what Solidworks says about the air flow. When do you think startup will be? Definitely decals. Pinstripes wpuld be the way to go. Great job on the RXLs. Tey were too nice for me., lol.
Couple more weeks I'm guessing at this point. Thanks again
Looking great looks rather stealthy with no decals 👍👍👍
Stealth mode activated 🥷
Todd don’t worry about your air box it’s gonna work just fine! The mag side will see just as much boost as the others
@@northwoodsrippers9639 great minds think alike 😁
Yes to the decals!
😁
We boost 8cyl cars with front facing throttle body and the closest runners get a little less priority and the furthest runners get the most priority but it all pretty good with a maybe 1 point spread in afr. You have adjustable power fuel jet so just as long as your not hung up on all 3 being set equal then your fine. Start equal obviously and adjust accordingly. The plugs will tell you all. But I hope you have egts because that’s wats gonna save the motor. They will talk to you in real time. One starts running up then shut it down. Confirm the plugs not rich then add fuel. Stay safe get to the point where your pulling fuel out to dial in. Cpl cases of spark plugs br9es or wat ever you run. Don’t read your first set toss them pretty quick and you’ll be good. Looks like this isn’t your first rodeo
You're right, I have the EGT's hooked up. This is a fun build! 😎
Todd, you have to install the original graphics package… The graphic decals are what make the 92 650 “The Pumpkin” otherwise it’s just a black INDY…
Secondly, I am with you on the intake manifold being charged with intake boost at a consistent pressure for each cylinder.
That’s a good point about the graphics and I agree with you on the intake manifold
Yes decals would be beautiful
@Isaac-sv7xt 😁
Decals for sure and some pinstriping
😁
From my years of farming experience, it should push boost through all 3 boots, similar to how the seed towers work on an air drill. BUT, I’ve been wrong before. Really curious as to how this set up is going to turn out.
@@drewkuntz2174 thanks for the input
I think the Mag side carb might get a little less air. I think a cheap way to check would be to install balloons on the carb inlet pipes and put air into the boost inlet. If one carb isn't getting as much, the balloon would be smaller. Then you can restrict the larger balloons until they are equal.
@@GYPSY400 interesting idea
Jst cut and add two more tubes out the top on both sides of air box and connect them to one at the top. If u dnt think it’ll work so it’ll be even pressure on all sides but idk that’s jst my idea
I like where your head's at. I'm going to keep that in mind.
Yes on the decals.
@@creekside315 😁
I think your air boxset up is fine. You’ll know real quick with a quick pull down the straightaway then do a plug read. If plugs say things are good then your good if plugs say things are bad well then back to drawing board but don’t sweat it. Cross that bridge when and if it comes.
@@acurarl9929 I like your thinking 😁
i love my pumpkin with decals....with out them it becomes another mod. Just my opinion. The 92 was a special design.
I agree
I have a set of late edge (04-06) gauges that I swapped the guts in the tach with the guts from my 1997 RXL tach which I think was the only year wedge with large gauges. The original gauges were all black and I always liked the white and black edge gauges. So I have what you are looking for as far as gauges on my RXL. Its doable but good luck finding a 1997 RXL large tach.
@@Polaris13905 right 😁
SLP engine torque arm , and extra push arm , locks that motor in place , minimal twist clutch deflection , and a Venom Team tied Secondary clutch , best things I put on my machine ,
I'll be making all of that good stuff in time 😁
No Decal please.....just wondering if you could install a boost gage on that beautiful air box so you will an idea of the pressure...awesome looking sled love the videos and comments you speak about....Muskoka Dave Cheers to You
@@davidszmik7983 it will have a gauge
Boost pressure is a creation of restriction in the engine. The intake box you have made is going to work as a tank/reservoir and the cylinders will take from it as they need it. You'll be find todd.
Good point, you guys know your stuff!
@toddclyne3493 i wish I woulda took the time to make a box like yours. But my sled project isn't a permanent thing just a test bed as I want to eventually do this to a thundercat...
I think decals would look pretty slick
@@stevenblahey1761 😁
There is no issues with that air box. Should run great off boost and under boost the intake will be pressurized, so no issues with air pressure to the MAG carb
You’re right, thanks for the feedback! 😁
I'd say save the decals for a stock build 92, the turbo sled needs some sweet pinstripes and just a 650 decal and maybe turbo in pinstripe too
That sounds pretty awesome
beautiful sleds and workmanship it will be awesome when you are done for sure cheers
Thanks 👍
Hey all ... I think they would be both be awesome black ,or with the full graphics.
Why not intermittent... fade the original into a black ... either from front to back , or fading in from the bottom hot ,and fading into black. Very slightly... like a ghost image.
Why can't you use a simulor intercooler design ,for the intake .? All my 2 cents . Love you all... Merry Christmas!!!
Thanks for the handful of change 😁
Free tip: air flows almost the same boosted or not. 1Bar absolute pressure or 1.3bar nothing changes. Air does not get pushed in the cylinder by the turbo it just gets pressurized, then a pressure drop occurs when the piston passes the intake port and the air is “sucked” in same as a NA engine. The answer you are looking for is: if this air box would work NA it will work in a boosted application
@@reminoel483 this was the explanation I think a lot of us was looking for. Thanks
Yeah hes good the pressure will equalize without issue as long as the area past the notch is will flow more past it than the stator carb can actually consume he will have no problems.
Yes to decals.
Need to do some CFD on the airflow in the air box…
@@gedertr right
yes new video. just buttoned up the case on my 800 storm this afternoon. Cheers guys, if he leaves the decals off it looks like a mean mountain mod sled. also 3 fingers has a storm motor in it!?!?!?!?!?!?
Storm motor correct
I wish you luck. This sounds like an engineering nightmare.
Better stock up on the cold snacks. You’re going to need them. 😂👍
@@StreetersGarage 😂😂 thanks Tom 🍻
Your air box will be fine. The boost pressure will more than compensate for any flow rate issues that a small restriction in your air box could cause. If you read 8 psi of boost, the whole system will be at 8 psi. The outlet of the compressor wheel to each and every corner of the air box will be at 8 psi. I have tested this type of theory on diesel trucks- the pressure on one side of the intercooler is the same as the other.
@@beaterbutch3924 thanks for confirming my thoughts
Would a later model Polaris steering post that has an angle or off set work, i know some Polaris twins had that design
I'm not sure on that one
I think Decals will look awesome!!
@@ScottMartin-y8i 👍
Another great video! Thank you. I sure do love watching the different projects you guys get into. Do you still have any machines for sale?
@@garrettlutzow1732 not right now
@@toddclyne3493
When I was younger I got a new 98 xlt and my brother had a new 98 xcr 600. They were a blast! We rode up in Hayward, WI and it was a lot of wide open throttle on lakes. These are some of my favorite sounding engines. After a few years both engines failed. Not surprising after what we put them through. The xlt crankshaft bent and one of the pistons started hitting the spark plug and almost put a hole though it (I still have that piston lol). The xcr motor crankshaft sheared off flush where it comes out of the block. The primary clutch almost made it out of the hood when the crankshaft broke off, kind of scary. We ended up getting the newer XC machines which were good too but I sure do miss those old powerhouse triples! If you get one you want to sell please let me know. Merry Christmas!
Gotta have decals ! Sorry Trenton but I’m old school ! I can see just the way it is but come on man …. Gotta have some decals ! Take care and Merry Christmas 🍺🍺
Thanks! Merry Christmas!
For the gauges, could a electronics guru make a custom arduino board to make it all work?
@@Pascal_Robert--Rc_Creations that would be fantastic
You need to ask some of those old Pine Lake guys, Dale Ibister and Darin Weber. They played a lot with those and Marv Jorgensen (ChopperCity)days
@@andyemmertz2733 yes indeed 😁
Do you know anyone nearby that could check cfm the carbs would be receiving…from the pressurized inbox? Just a thought looks awesome fellas!
@@petehanas63 there you go 🤔
Throw 3 boost gauges in the airbox in different locations.. For testing purposes. I'd guess it will be okay, though. Also... I've been watching some stuff on car guys doing blow-through carbureted turbo setups. They say the rule of thumb is base fuel pressure + boost pressure. So if the stock pump supplies 5, and you're running 8lbs boost, you need to be at 13lbs fuel pressure. Idk if that rule applies directly to your setup here, but it will be interesting to see you guys figure it out!
@@jjcdrummer it definitely does and I'll be getting into that. Thanks
@ Looking forward to it! I don’t have the space, resources, or skills you guys do.. So I like to live vicariously through your RUclips videos. You guys and Nutter give me the sled wrenching fix
Saw your RXL on FBMP minutes after you listed, just bad timing for me to purchase. Its a beaut
Thanks. That one was a lot of fun.
Those ‘92 pumpkin decal’s are some of the best looking ever, you gotta put them on!
Sled is looking fantastic!
Jason price at price performance here in Michigan would more than likely be able to answer your question about the boost air box. Look him up and reach out
Thanks
Black and orange looks bad ass! I vote no badges!👌💪🇺🇲
@@HairlipButcher 😁
And I also think as long as the turbo isn't blowing directly into that carb it would distribute pressure evenly
@@bradr464 thank you
I think no decals. But maybe you could tape them up to see what it looks like?
I like that idea
My 2cents on airbox for what it’s worth is solid baffle to deflect airflow off the center carb & somehow calculate the surface area each can take as the whole point of a box is to distribute air evenly…how to exactly is beyond my abilities tho hahah. You get it tho!
@@justinallen7979 beyond mine also 😅
@@toddclyne3493 somehow you’ll have to get each car the same airflow obvi. in long run…will be tricky keeping it under hood, but best bet might be heading back to Nutter’s & somehow making an another fits under the hood as a collective airbox, but has splitter pipes to each port like those gasser dragsters so all the air comes into a box of sorts but then is distributed to the ports…might look wild tho lol. Someone commented to add the same steering clearance to the others side thus making all ports more equal which could also accomplish the same goal(?). I was concerned seeing the chassis at Princeton😂
**Also can’t wait to see you & Trenton rippin it up on the trails with @Nutter & the crew this season🤘🏻
Every sled ive owned I take some, if not all decals off. Looks great without. Have at least one without. Just me. I like different. Obviously you guys can relate.
@@ronwitt1 😁
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Tough call on the decals 🤔
Is it possible to make a custom decal like the one on the 91 RXL you just sold, just change the color to orange. Something cool and not stock, since the sled is a custom build 🤷🏻♂️
I agree with most people who commented, that your box will be fine. If the volume provided is more than what the piston ports can consume you’re likely good to go 👍. To be safe though I’d be watching the jetting on all 3 quite closely.
Sled looks amazing!!!
Merry Christmas Clyne family 🍻🍻🍻
@@IndyGuyRob thanks brother for all your input. Happy holidays!!
Airbox will be just fine! Cavity will be boosted evenly!
@@cdachyk thanks
93 orange 650 carb decals. Would look nice. :)
92 I'm sure is what you meant
Well she’s looking sweet guyz. I’m a decal guy so I say more the better, will help the orange flow across the sled. As far as boost, I no as much about that as I do making a cake, no real
Help for ya. Airbox will work fine 👊
@@jeremymullen5378 😅 cake maker
Make an identical post tunnel between the other two carbs
Make the inlet point towards the turbo. It'll have less pipe and better response
Cut a hole in the back and find a 2025 take off air box valve from a boost. Thousands of folks replaced them with a trs valve
That’s a good idea!
One of your subscribers probably has a valve laying around or you could just find a valve from any big twin id think. Then cover that with an outerwear or frogskin
Just a couple things: Could you not run a pipe parallel on top of the airbox and have 3 ports it feeds? Would not be much more fab work. Lastly: The main manual fuel pump. What do you think of running one way valves on either side so when the electric pump and regulator are running under boost...there is no way of pressurized fuel getting to the manual pump and ruining a baffle? Just curious as I was not sure how much pressure those manual pumps can take.
@@darcy32171 funny you bring up the one way valves. We talked about that exact thing in the safety meeting 😁
I think I would finish Jason, and then decide if you want the the graphics or not. It may look naked once you guys get the bumper on with the nose cone and everything is sitting on there the way it should. As for the steering......PSC full hydro set up. Like a rock buggy. LoL
@@BLKXJ96 good call on getting it all together first
Decals forsure nice sled!!
@@codyburnside5723 😁
Read the plugs, adjust the jetting accordingly. It is not a big deal if one cylinder is favored. As long as the AFR is right on all cylinders.
I agree
Todd clyne video on a Sunday yes sirrr 💪🏼
Hope you enjoyed it!
Why not just put a camel back into the mag side of the airbox at the top to free up a way for air to get to that side?
🤔
Looks so good with out decals so I vote no decals
👍
Decals 100% but looks bad ass as it is as well
Thanks
Tough call. I would just scotch tape decals on and look at it for a day or two. It’s does look bad ass the way it is.
I agree
Ghost decals. And throw a set of orange bars on it.
🤔
That intake should be fine. It will make a difference. But probably not a big enough difference that it will matter
Thanks