What I Wish I Knew About Hyperpigmentation When I Was Younger & Brightening Product Favorites
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Product Recommendations
Topicals Faded Serum (fyi, now contains fragrance)
At Sephora: fxo.co/Eqp3
Regimen Lab Level Serum
At Regimen Lab: regimenlab.com...
Non-Affiliate Link
Geek & Gorgeous C Glow Serum
At Geek & Gorgeous: iaff.geekandgo...
FaceTheory Lumizela Azelaic Acid 10% Serum
At FaceTheory: fxo.co/DBlX
Paula’s Choice 10% AHA Advanced Smoothing Treatment
At PC: paulachoiceusc...
Peach & Lily Power Cocktail
At Ulta: fxo.co/DGVk
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Age spots, which are also referred to as photoaging, and liver spots, are inevitable for most people. As you age, skin tends to slow down collagen production. Collagen is the main connective tissue protein in your body that essentially binds your skin cells together. It also generates new and healthy skin cells that promote firmness and elasticity to help give your skin a youthful and radiant appearance resulting in an even skin tone.
Melasma is another extremely common form of hyperpigmentation that’s typically prevalent in women. Melasma is believed to be a hormonal side effect. Some cases of Melasma development have also been linked to being a side effect of birth control. It typically occurs on different parts of the face such as the forehead, upper lip, and cheeks in the form of greyish-brown or dark brown patches.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) Everybody gets acne from time to time. With proper treatment, acne can clear up right away. Unfortunately, not everyone is always so lucky. Sometimes breakouts leave behind dark scars on the skin. This is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), also known as scarring. PIH can be the result of pretty much any type of skin trauma. It can be a scratch, a scab from a bug bite, or an injury.
Genetics/ Freckles / Birthmarks There are two main types of birthmarks: vascular and pigmented. Vascular birthmarks are red in color. Some people have a genetic predisposition to develop freckles. Others develop them over time as they get older due to sun exposure.
Main Causes of hyperpigmentation
UV Rays - this is one of the most preventable causes of pigmentation changes
Acne/ Injuries- such as breakouts, bug bits, scratches or injuries
Genetics- especially related to freckles or birthmarks
Hormones - melasma is a common hyperpigmentation that is thought to be caused by hormones, but more research needs to be done to understand why
Ways to Treat Hyperpigmentation
Use sunscreen daily to protect and prevent worsening of pigmentation
Keeping skin hydrated
Not picking at skin, scabs or breakouts
Over the counter topical serums
High tech options such as lasers (IPL Lasers)
Microneedling
Topical Peels done at a Dermatologist’s Office
Different types of topical products/ Ingredients
Tyronase Inhibitors-
Hydroquinone - Very powerful Tyrosinase Inhibitors. Skin bleaching effect. Banned in some countries. Potential carcinogenic effect.
Kojic Acid - a natural crystal like substance that is used is some skin whitening products. Also Banned in some countries. May cause dermatitis with long-term use.
Arbutin - a glycosylated form of Hydroquinone but more gentle, found in Bearberry, Paper Mulberry, Blueberry and Cranberry
L-Ascorbic Acid - Vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant that also exhibits tyrosinase inhibiting properties.
Licorice Root - A very popular plant-based Tyrosinase Inhibitor. More effective than Kojic Acid, but also anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.
Azelaic Acid - A dicarboxylic acid, naturally derived from wheat. Works as an anti-acne and skin bleaching agent.
DermaWhite - A compound containing Waltheria Leaf Extract, Ferulic Acid, Citric acid and Gluconic acid
Lightocean - a peptide obtained by amino acid synthesis
Whitesphere - A compound containing licorice root extract, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and Wakame extract encapsulated into spherulites
Exfoliating Ingredients
Glycolic Acid - AHA derived from sugar cane.
Lactic Acid - AHA derived from milk. Also a tyrosinase inhibitor.
Mandelic Acid - AHA derived from Almonds.
Citric Acid - AHA derived from Citrus Fruit.
Salicylic Acid - BHA derived from Willow Bark.
Enzymes - Bromelian derived from Pineapple and Papain derived from Papaya.
Other Pigment Regulating Ingredients
Niacinadmide - Works by interrupting the transfer of melanosomes to the keratinocyte skin cells.
Vitamin A - Retinol / Retinaldehyde helps to normalize and regulate cell function.
Brightening Peptides - such as Nonapeptide-1, Rh-Oligopeptide-1 act like chemical messengers to regulate melanin production.
Green Tea Extract - an antioxidant that also exhibits tyrosinase inhibiting properties.
Glucosamine - an antioxidant that also exhibits tyrosinase inhibiting properties.
Thank you for being our hyperpigmentation warrior in the fight on this. It's so common now as is indicated by the mass array of products that tout combating this issue from many years of people not protecting themselves against the sun. I am super guilty! A good tan fades quickly, but bad hyperpigmentation lasts a whole lot longer. Love your content.
I’d like to hear Lincoln’s opinion. 🐾❤️
Hi Sarah we're really our own worst critic - I never notice dark spots/hyperpigmentation on your skin in any video. I have freckles and have had them as long as I can remember (fitzpatrick one Scottish skin). I'm used to them and they're just part of my face, but with age they became a bit larger/darker/uneven. Despite this not being my major issue (rosacea and thinning/sagging being more of an issue for me), some of the actives i have used have faded my freckles to more like how they were when I was slightly younger. They have become a bit lighter/smaller/more even as a side benefit, which was a pleasant extra. I think the combination of azelaic acid and a retinoid (plus more diligent spf usage) has reduced the size and shade, despite being used for redness/rosacea and collagen stimulation. Niacinamide is in everything (fortunately my skin tolerates this ingredient pretty well) and I use a lot of products with licorice root - both for their redness reduction/soothing properties. I don't get PIH, but instead get PIE which is very stubborn, but I've had some decent results with this using a retinoid. At 50 I'm not going to have the skin I had in my teens/twenties/thirties and I'm fine with having expression lines (I've always had an expressive face lol), but I do want it to be the healthiest it can be. Having rosacea and eczema (both chronic skin conditions that flare and ebb in a cycle) means my skin is quite delicate and I lost a lot of the cushion in my skin during menopause. I want to keep my skin as healthy and comfortable as possible, which should keep it looking decent for my age as a nice side benefit. Best wishes.
I can tell you this- if you struggle with hyperpigmentation and you use some actives parts of your face when you have them literally CAN’T be in direct sunlight. You can put spf 500 +++++, reapplying it - your spots will come back- or will come worse… when day is sunny the only thing that can keep them under control is to keep those spots in the shadow. When is sunny I always wear baseball cap, in summer I always walk in the shadow part of the street. Of course I use spf 50+ but in my experience those 98% protection simply isn’t enough on hyperpigmentation. I feel like those 2 % can make it reappear/ got worse ….
urban skin rx has a cystamine mask like cyspera but for a third of the price
4-Butylresorcinol in some of the Korean products is a great skin bleaching ingredient, IMO best of them all.
Please can u ask camera man not to cut off the dog in the view? The pup is too cute to join you there. Thats one hyperpigmentation i want to see 😃. Btw, did u put out the chair just for him?
I’ve used the regimen labs level serum daily for 3-4 months and gosh it’s just so damn good. That with azeclair and hydroquinone that I got prescribed at 8% really kicked it up a notch and almost 90% cleared my melasma and sunspots up. Only used it for 3.5 months, NO IRRITATION AT ALL! And it’s have extremely sensitive skin. By the 3rd month is when I really noticed looking at a side by side pic one day it was like 2 different faces. I think the tyrosinase inhibitors combined with the HQ did wonders. And I use lactic acid on non Retin-A nights.
Thank you so incredibly much again Sarah... always love your videos.
Like you, hyperpigmentation is the reason I started getting into skin care. I turned 36 at the start of the year and have never bothered or taken much care of my skin. I have other health issues, long term, and I haven't considered my skin at all-except noticing how sensitive and dry it felt (and would go through stages/periods of it stinging with anything and just water - whole body).
When I turned 36, about a week later i noticed some hyperpigmentation on my face (I seriously remember noticing it and thinking "oh I really am so incredibly old, and where did that come from all of a sudden?" ).
I then began researching about hyperpigmentation, causes, its formation etc and other skin conditions and ingredients (mechanism of action)- wondered if it was related to my other health issues.Mine is mainly due to sun exposure- not surprisingly being in Australia.
I have a science background ( did molecular genetics and biotech - LOVED biochemistry, microbiology, immunology, so it was/is kind of fun in a way looking into this stuff.
Its almost a distraction from the other health things at times and it is fascinating. LOL.
I dont exactly buy many products, but i enjoy looking into them and want to try more products... not enough courage and definitely cant afford to waste money on something that I cant even use.
Right now, mine is fairly simple compared to others....
AM cleanse, Regimen Lab level , moisturiser (change between 2) and mineral sunscreen ( ultraviolette lean screen…. Selected After many samples of different sunscreens . I’m hoping to swap to La Roche ( the Good chemical European/ Australian formula … my skin was way too sensitive when I did the samples and I was too hesitant to leave it on for an extended time as my face felt a bit 🤷♀️🤷♀️- it was probably just in my head at the time and I was being paranoid 🤣)
PM: cleanse, Azclear & moisturiser.
(...I did just start trying La Roche Rosaliac AR serum a tiny bit on my nose and cheeks in the evening- i noticed a little redness and it was 1/2 price so i thought it was the best time to try it (contains ambophenol which apparently constricts BVs among other things- not that much info or reviews so im unsure about it ....)
Im definitely going to get the Cosrx all in one snail mucin cream or Essence next / in the near future I think- thoughts on which one?!? Cream im leaning towards!. I would LOVE to try the new cosrx niacinamide 15 (not available here easily yet) & looking forward to your update on their new Vit C ! I know a retinol and bit C would be beneficial... but I h
Edit : Sorry for the ridiculously long comment!
PIH and adult acne/burn (the latter due to a reaction to misusing retinol) were what made me get into skincare as well. After high school, I dealt with a lot of PIH from acne and used a Kojic Acid soap (after researching online), and that got rid of it. Then decades later (3 years ago) my skin had a bad reaction to the Peter Thomas Roth Retinol infusion pm or whatever it’s called (I was overusing it), which caused a really bad breakout and PIH. That really got me into skincare. Now I’ve been on an up and down journey as well. I’m waiting on my 20% Azelaic acid to arrive too, btw lol
Keep me posted on how you like the AA cream! Fingers crossed- I swear AA really helped me a ton with my hyperpigmentation, it was certainly a game changer for me. PIH takes a while to fade but it seems more responsive than a lot of other issues (melasma) I've had.
Another useful video! I have freckles and a mild melasma. I've been using mandelic acid for quite a while and recently bought the faded topicals. I'm amazed of how well this product works. I'm gonna consider buying an azelaic serum since you recommended so emphatically 🤞
I had a peel done a few months ago. My medspa uses circadia skincare. The peel was called Switch. I had absolutely no peeling at all!!! It's recommended for people over 37, and it was a wonderful experience. If you look on utube there are videos of the Switch facial being preformed. I didn't want the peeling either. Taking a week off work so my face can heal just isn't in the cards for me as a mental health therapist. Although we do need our own self-care! 😊
Thanks for this video, Sarah! I'm always concerned with my PIH and find that the best approach (besides preventing it in the first place, as you mentioned) is to combine several ingredients. The products I rely on are my prescription strength Finacea (azelaic acid), vit C, and sunscreen in the AM. At night, I use Topicals Faded and tretinoin 0.1%.
Even hydroquinone didn't work on my melasma so I have kind of accepted that I will have to love with it and continue trying otc products hoping it eventually disappears
Great video. I'm going to use alpha arbutin twice a day for several months and see what happens.
Love your dog💕
I got rid of my melasma last year by using Musely (hydroquinone), but the spots came back after I stopped using Musely.
Ahh, Ike's got hyperpigmentation too!! 🐕
I was thinking that too😂. It looks so good on him, why doesn’t mine look cute!
Hi thanks for the video .. but just have to tell you .. Lincoln is gorgeous.
Great tips 👌🏼 I tried the topicals last year I really like but no I’m using one serum from Vichy for dark spots and wrinkles which is great alongside with HelioCare pigment solution SpF is working great. Have you ever try the Eucerin pigment solution is pretty popular in other countries
My biggest issue is PIE and some PIH, thanks for all the information in here 💖
This is Gonna B so Good Sarah🔥🔥🔥👍….
I really appreciate this video, Sarah. Working on my pigmentation issues and it takes a looooong time!!🤦♀️. May I ask you what your FAVORITE tinted sunscreen is? Hope your fur babies are all doing well!!💙
Great information, super thorough & helpful. Thanks Sarah ✨💝
Hi!I found this Heimish matcha biome amino acne cleansing foam as I was browsing an online shop and I got really excited because I love their other cleanser..Hoping you could make a review on this..🥰
I’ve heard that things that can cause “heat”, like peels, can make melasma worse. I didn’t know that and used to get really strong peels where your face looks like a snake.
Interesting, I hadn't heard that, but it makes sense- I put off getting a peel as long as possible because I had one done about 7 or 8 years ago and I was miserable for over a week after.
So glad 😊 you're talking about this. Thanks 👍.
I always enjoy your videos....thank you so much!
Hi!! please review the new mary&may blackberry essence, thank you:)
Great video Sarah! Have a wonderful day! ❤️
Hi Lincoln-Thanks for the video and all the info- I have done the laser treatment once a few years ago before I even tried over the counter stuff- it wasn’t a pleasant experience and results were temporary- expensive and you have to keep going! Now having some good results with products and tretinoin - sunscreen is the best help, not taking birth control also. Got some stubborn spots that may try laser again??
I've been debating doing the laser treatment, I think I've come as close as I can to getting rid of the hyperpigmentation with topical products and at home tools. If I do I'm going to have to make a video about it. I've also heard birth control pills can be a huge cause for melasma but I wish more doctors talked about that with patients and especially urged the use of sunscreen.
@@NOBSBeauty thank you for sharing you journey
I wish i wore sunscreen every day when i was younger and i wish i didn’t pick my skin like a maniac bc i wouldnt have all this texture now!!!!
I am going to start my vi chemcial next month 4 in a row. On vacation i used a lot of sun protection, hat etc but theu seem a bit worse (melasma)
Hi, Sarah! I bought Tria laser thanks to your recommendation and I love it! I’m on my 2 cycle now. Do you feel like it helped your melasma? Because I think I see some settle improvements!
Have u tried the Isdin products for hyperpigmentation? They have topical and oral supplements
Right!!?? If we ONLY knew then😔😵💫🤪
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